My computer won't turn off the monitor even though its set to do so at 5 min. It also won't turn on the screen saver (set at 4 min). The screen going black for a second and comes back.
What's worse is that hibernating used to work all the time, now it doesn't if the computers been on for about a day or so continuously. Sleep won't work either in the same situation.
Any idea why?
I'm using Windows 8.1
I ordered a used DVR recording box from ebay and the owner sent an incompatible used LAPTOP charger with it and says that it has worked for him without problems. (for how long I have no clue)
Pictures of the volt/amp specs on both Here: http://ift.tt/2xIOZMi
The Issue that I have is that the adaptor puts out 19v, but the DVR accepts only 6vdc
I'm aware of the fact that the Voltage provided by the power source may vary a little from the max output, but would it be dangerous either to myself or the device to run it with this large of a voltage (and possibly amperage) disparity?
Would this power brick even if its not from the same manufacturer only provide the exact about of draw needed to keep the device powered on but not push out more wattage than the DVR needs?
I guess I would just like to know if there's a high risk of breaking this device after a month because I know it will work for a little bit, but extended use is probably not recommended right?
Alternativelty I happent o have a universal 19.5v laptop charger which I know will provide the proper power to the device but would it work better than what was given to me or about the same?
So many more questions, but I want to stay focused so that I can get precise answers.
Thanks all for your knowledge and expertise!
I have 2x identical Hard drives, both i got at different times.
I am wanting to know what is the best way for me to determine what is better.
Cycle Times, Time On etc?
I was downloading something off the internet and after it downloaded I stuck in on my desktop and after I click it the thing that says "are you sure you want to open this" screen pops up and before I can even click "no" or "yes" my computer gets the BSoD and when I try and turn my PC back on it says repairing and then sends me into the options screen for repairing my system. I did everything I could (which took days) and I ended up having to delete everything off my hard drive and lost a bunch of stuff. Does anyone know what kind of virus infected my computer??
So I have a HP Pavilion Notebook 14 Laptop (Windows 10) and I was using it as a hotspot for my phone just fine. It's the kind where you have to open up Command Prompt and type something like "NETSH wlan start network" or something. Few weeks later, all of a sudden, it won't work.
The hotspot shows up on my iPhone, but when I connect to it, the wifi bar doesn't show up, even though there is a check mark beside it. I need help bc my basement is too weak for my wifi to work on my phone properly, and I'm using too much LTE already.
Edit: added os :)
I'm really interested in finding out who called me with no caller ID. If they call again I'll answer problem solved but until then I'm curious. I'm assuming not.
My second question is, if you block someone on your iPhone, and they also have an iPhone, could that person bypass the block by selecting "don't show my caller ID?"
My house is wired with Coax cable that I can manage in the basement to connect certain lines. I have a receiver in my basement that I would like to also send feed to a second tv in HD if possible. Currently I have an old composite to Coax that I use to send feed but obviously it’s SD. Is there a good converter for this purpose? Also, if there is something to convert to Ethernet and back that would also work but not as well. I have googled this and get a mixed bag of results every time.
Windows 10
PSU - 600 watt EVGAGPU - STRIX 480 8GBCPU - AMD 8320Motherboard- ASUS (Not sure, Older AM3 )RAM - PNY 8 GB DDR3 1600
N/A
Installed RAM, at first I had all 3 8GB sticks because as far as i could tell they all matched. Booted the computer with the 3 RAM installed and my monitor showed an "Unsupported mode" error. Turned the computer off then turned it back on and it showed the error again, but after about 3 min booted up normally except that there were some visual errors on my bios screen such as tearing and glitching. Got past that and logged in and everything worked fine, no errors. Woke up this morning, booted my computer like normal, tried to play a game and it just hung. Wasn't responding to any input. It did this twice. I then took out the original RAM stick and left the two new ones in because i thought maybe this was causing the problem. Now it refuses to boot and I have gotten the Blue screen several times. First couple showed a BIOS error, so I reset my MOBoard. Next just showed sys errors. I wiped my computer and reinstalled windows, and now i am getting the Unsupported Mode error again unless i boot into safe mode. I am not sure what to do. I read online that this error is due to the resolution, but it always worked fine before.
24 hours ago
Yes
N/A
No
Booting the computer up
Changed out my ram, removed graphics card, reset BIOS, reinstalled windows
As the title says, I have multiple monitors with different resolutions. Because of this, in the display settings they are shown as different sizes, and I can only move to the other monitors at specific spots on my screen. Is there any way to scale them in the display settings so it's easier to move between them?
I was in the Logged in Devices page and saw an iPad with an unknown local IP address that logged in to my account on Safari an hour ago. I'm home alone and I've never logged into an iPad and don't own one. I clicked "not my device" and Facebook took me to a security page to change my password. But when I went back to the logged in devices, the iPad was gone from the list of devices, and so the IP is gone too. I need the IP.
The only thing I think this might be is that I just started a new job and have logged into Facebook on my work laptop, and the IT guy is an administrator on that laptop and could've installed something like a keylogger. The IP was from my country and I have a difficult password. So if I had the IP I could tie it to him or someone else, but now all the information is gone.
I was having an incredibly personal argument with my boyfriend when this happened, discussing incredibly personal and embarrassing problems. If there's someone at work who saw these messages I have to know.
Is there a way somewhere else on the site to view login history?
Hey guys,
I have the most mind-boggling problem to share with you. I recently purchased a Dell XPS 15, and for some strange reason, when I scroll up/down on the touchpad OR on the touch-screen, the display goes black.
I'm not entirely sure if it's putting the computer to sleep or just blanking the display.
It will go to sleep on a two fingered swipe up OR down, and will wake up to any normal keypress or swiping.
I've done some googling, and I just can't seem to find a solution. I tried examining the advanced power options and I don't see any commands related to a touchpad, and I don't have any fancy touchpad macro software running either.
Any help would be appreciated!
My situation is very similar to this post (http://ift.tt/2ygYtiN)
my crystal info : http://ift.tt/2x5KpDw I saw that the reallocated sector count is 0 and was wondering if there was a way to force reallocation of the pending sectors. I have already backed up the important files to a external drive and as a broke university student replacing the laptop or hard drive is really a last option. I have monitored the hard drive over the last week and no new pending sectors have pop'd up yet and as of right now the laptop is usable and occasionally freezes for 10 minutes ish. Processor: i7-4500u Graphics card: Intel HD graphics 400
Hi there! I've had this weird problem with Microsoft Word (2016) on my Windows 10 PC. I think the easiest way to show you is with screenshots: http://ift.tt/2yfPKNH
Even menu items are subject to it, it's very strange. Running word in safe mode doesn't seem to change anything. And it's not consistent at all, it pops up and goes away seemingly at random. Any advice would be gratefully received!
So about a week ago my PC decided it no longer wanted to start up, with a mysterious clicking sound replacing any real attempt at starting. The sound is NOT a HDD failure, as even with none connected the clicking remains. There is no display on either monitor, no matter where they are connected, they don't even come out of sleep mode.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
The clicking is approximately one every 4-5 seconds. I can't quite tell where it is coming from, maybe the PSU?
I've attempted:
Removing the GPU
Disconnecting all hard drives
Removing the MOBO battery
Replacing the Power Supply
Switching the RAM to different slots
Changing cords and SATA ports used
There are a ton of conflicting results from web searches(It could be a HDD, RAM, MOBO, PSU, CPU, random other things) but I fear I've eliminated all but CPU and the MOBO. I was in the market for a new CPU but if the Motherboard failed I'll have to go with that one first.
Desktop:
-Windows 10
-nVidia GTX 960
-Two monitors connected - one through HDMI, the second through an HDMI-to-Display Port adapter
Situation
-Both monitors working properly, playing WoW while watching a Twitch stream
-Circuit breaker tripped in the room the PC is connected
-PC powers back on and only the HDMI monitor is working correctly
-Second monitor stays in 'sleep' mode
-Power cycled PC, same symptoms occur
-Updated display drivers through the nVidia website, same symptoms occur (this procedure included removing the original drivers and installing new ones, as well as two additional power cycles of the PC)
-Swapped the display cables in the back of the monitors; 'sleeping' monitor displayed properly. Issue followed the cable.
I think that the HDMI to DisplayPort adapter may be faulty and was likely damaged by the power outage. This is curious to me because my PC is behind a surge protector. I want to make sure that there are no other troubleshooting steps that I should follow before I go spending money to replace any hardware.
Edit - I'm bad at formatting on Reddit.
I have seen some posts on this, however there isn't a clear answer. I've tried to select HDMI through playback settings but that doesn't work
http://ift.tt/2xL7yNB - Here is a screenshot of what it says
I've also tried updating the drivers and changing the HDMI cable.
Any help please?
Edit: I should also mention that the video comes through, just not sound
My laptop is an Acer Aspire R5-471T running Windows 10. Whenever I close it physically without turning it off, then open it again, it always becomes this weird rainbow screen. It can be fixed by just turning it off and on again but it is still pretty annoying. Is there anyway to fix this?
I tried launching many different Launchers and games and none seem to be able to connect to servers and wont launch (Battlenet, Origin, Paladins)
On top of this I have to run chrome in administrator mode or it wont run properly
Running IPconfig tells me that the media state is disconnected nothing I do so far seems to work
Anyone have an idea?
When waking my comp up from sleep, the 2nd monitor is glitching out
I have to unplug and re-plug the displayport to get it functioning correctly. Currently running a GTX 1060 on Win10.
Any ideas why this is happening or how to stop it? Thanks
I have a Dell U2715H monitor and I'm planning to connect the keyboard and mouse to the USB ports in the monitor, that is connected to my MacBook Pro with DisplayPort.
My home network consists of an ISP modem connected to an Airport Extreme base station, which serves as my wifi hub.
I have two Airport Expresses hardwired with CAT6 to the Extreme and set to extend the range of the wireless network. (Due to the construction materials and layout of the house, I cannot use them wirelessly to extend the network) Last weekend, wanting to increase the speed for my PS4, I unplugged one of the Express cables and hooked up my PS4. It worked fine for a few days, but now every time I unhook either of the Express cables, my entire wireless network loses its internet connection.
Can anyone help me figure out why this is happening, and how to best configure this network to allow me to hotswap one of the Expresses with my PS4 without pissing off my wife?? Thanks!
Quick screenshot of what my AirPort Utility shows when it's all up and running
So I used the built in file compression on a few large folders in 2 of my other drives (D:\ and E:) and waited about 4 hours for the process to complete but noticed 0 difference in change on my drives' free capacity. Isn't file compression supposed to LOWER the sizes of those files and free up more storage? What am i missing?
Logged onto my PC today and didn't have any sound coming from my sound card, tried reinstalling all the drivers but still not having any luck. Not too sure what else to do,open to any advice. Cheers!
So, title. Desperate as I can get almost no work done whatsoever. I'm almost positive it's not my router. Every other device in the house works fine. I tried restarting my router, that still failed to fix it. I tried to have a network adapter not be turned of to save power, I'm stuck. I did have a little nick on my antivirus a little bit ago, but I scanned and quarantined and deleted that easily enough. I can't see that being the problem, but the internet issue started soon after. Thanks so much. Please do try to help in anyway, I'll be mighty grateful!!!
but i also have a bootable windows recovery on it too. how do i tell my pc to boot up the memtest and not the windows 10recovery upgrade thing?
basically i have one thing on my usb drive thats bootable but i also want to put another thing
if i were to copy the windows files off my usb and put them on my harddrive, if i pasted them back, would everything still be the same?
is memtest86 saying its possible i wont be able to use the drive ever again if it loses its capacity? should i format the drive before writing memtest?
im getting a ton of bsods, but windows 10 memtest found nothing. id hate to lose my ability to reinstall windows 10 because i chose to run a memtest on my only usb and found out that its not my ram. (i think it is though)
is memtest86 much better at finding failing ram than the stock memtest that comes with windows 10???
I update my graphics card driver a little bit ago and it crashed when it was almost done. it kept restarting up it wouldn't fix anything. what it's doing now is startup and turn off over and over again. I don't know how to fix this at all. need help
Been having this problem for a month. it is bad since I don't use my PC that much but I still need to turn it on so I can create a hotspot.
This does not make sense to me, i've got 16GB and my ram useage that I can see in the list is using approx 2GB after I calculated it up, that should only be around 12-13% of ram useage.
I finally freed up some space (60/120 GB) on my SSD and I'm looking into transferring the OS onto the SSD from the HDD.
Can it cause errors and how much space do I need? (Win10 64-bit Pro)
I've had this External HDD for quite some time now without any setbacks but just now as I've tried to solve an issue regarding a change of file type in one of the partitions in the drive (which i successfully did) my laptop can't detect my External HDD anymore, not even Disk Management can detect it. I've tried (a) plugging it to another computer (which got detected) (b) plugging my Flash Drive and my USB type keyboard in the same USB port (ports work fine) and (c) plugging it in another USB port (didn't work)
P.S. please don't suggest to format my HDD since there's a lot of files here and i don't have anywhere else to create a back up of
Thank you :3
I recently made this post. I have a 2015 Macbook Pro with Sierra Installed, and Windows 10 running with Bootcamp.
As seen in the linked post, I made a 10GB exFAT partition on the SSD for sharing files between the OS's. I can move files from Windows to macOS but not the other way around. I then got a boot error while running Windows 10 for the first time after making the new partition.
I was able to drag and drop files that I needed to backup to my Sierra desktop. At this point I don't need any files from Windows, I just want my copy of Windows 10 back so I can try it again. Anyone know how I can save my copy?
What’s is a good VPN to download that I won’t have to pay for?
Let me specify, because when trying to google any information I find everything but what im looking for. I have a desktop that I (the owner) have that I make available to a roomate. So I have my password protected user, and create another user that has no password. Everytime I now reboot the system, it automatically logs into the user that does not have a password, but I want the system to stay at the login screen on boot regardless!
I feel this should be a common sense feature to have as this was implemented long ago before. I have ran 'control userpasswords2', and checked the box titled 'Users must enter a username and password to use this computer.'
Under advance in the User Account window, I try to access 'Advanced', which takes you to localusermanager but the dialouge in the main window says 'This snapin may not be used with this edition of windows 10' So shit.
I have also tried simply entering a blank password in the create a password box but i guess windows thinks its pretty clever.
I simply see no option in the basic control panel either. Why is this so difficult! This is also my first time owning a windows 10 machine, but im not inadequate with operating systems..
Hello everyone, I'm currently having a problem with my laptop. Due to a class in college, I'll have to install Linux on it (to be able to work on a project without going to the college to use their PCs). They claim "we'll be on our own" if we do it with Windows, which means we can try it, but if anything goes buggy (which according to them, it will) we're toast.
I first tried installing Ubuntu Gnome 16.04, which ended up freezing on load. Then I managed to install Ubuntu 16.04 LTS...which had various issues that I wasn't able to resolve - the touchpad didn't work, it froze on shutdown/restart, but more importantly it didn't run Minix on Virtual Box (it's a core part of our class to interact with it via Eclipse) due to kernel problems (me, friends and a teacher spent two hours trying to fix this and came to the conclusion that I should just try re-installing a different version of the OS).
Then Windows 10 stopped opening, and after a lot of trouble I was forced to just fully reset the computer after backing up important files. I clean installed Windows 10 which is working properly, but now I tried installing Ubuntu 17.04 and it has all of the issues of 16.04 plus it doesn't connect to the internet (despite cbeing connected to the wifi). I also tried installing Linux Mint 18.2 but it froze while loading the OS.
I've installed Ubuntu successfully on other PCs without any hassle, and they all worked fine. I'm doing all of these installations with the same USB, which has worked on all others. To even install 16.04 LTS or 17 I had to include "acpi = off" in the install settings (otherwise, it would freeze while loading the OS). I also both tried it with creating the partitions for Linux beforehand and without doing so, with the same results. My computer is pretty recent, it's the ASUS GL552VW, and it doesn't have any disk problems to speak of currently (though it had to be shipped to ASUS once to replace the SSD).
Any tips? I was wondering if there was any distribution of Linux that would be favorable to run alongside W10 that would actually run properly. I don't think I can run it in VirtualBox on Windows, considering that I'll have to run VirtualBox inside it as well.
Any help will be seriously appreciated, I've been struggling with this for the past 4 days.
Hello for few days my PC just shuts down itself when playing games, at first I thought it was PSU checked cables, checked if fan works correctly and I can't see any problems with it. Then I figured out that temp on CPU is quite high( it was 58C going to 70C while playing and I'm sure that was cause) so I have bought thermal paste and applied it on CPU( now it works at around 32-40C and about 60C while playing). So I started playing PUBG again and my PC shat down again. What's your guess is working wrong because I'm off the track right now.
Let's start with the first one:
Motherboard - MSI 880GM-e41
CPU - AMD Athlon II X3 445
When I try to install or boot into windows 10, it either hangs or gives me error codes like IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL or ACPI Bios Error. It gives me three beeps like "Beep.......beep beep"
I've tested all my hardware into my working system and it works... harddrive, ram, PSU, graphics card, and I'm not too sure where to go after this.
Second issue:
Motherboard - ASUS M5a97 LE ver 2.0
CPU - FX8150
It doesn't post to make any beeps. Same as above, I've tried different setups to no avail. There's a green light on the motherboard that lights up when i turn it on, so it must get some power, but nothing happens. I'm suspecting either the motherboard or the chip is dead.
Configuration: * Processor- Intel Dual Core E5700 * GPU- Internal * Cooler- Stock Intel LGA775 * RAM- 2GB Kingston 1333MHz / 2GB EVM Dynet 1333MHz * Mobo- Gigabyte GA G41M Combo * HDD- Seagate Barracuda 500GB * PSU- 400 W Circle Power Supply * Case: Some generic no brand case * OS- Windows 8.1 64 Bit
Have run with this config (except the new PSU) for a couple years without issues. For the past one month my PC has been randomly turning off without warning or BSOD. Sometimes while booting and after running for hours at other times.
What I have tried so far: * 1. Replaced the old PSU with leaked capacitors with a new one. * 2. Replaced dead CMOS battery. * 3. Cleaned the heatsink and re-installed it with new thermal paste. (Temps normal now while idle ~40 deg c and under load ~72 deg c) * 4. Reseated the Processor. * 5. Tried one RAM stick at a time and both. * 6. Checked the PSU voltages. Fan runs normally with Green and Black pins shorted. Here are the readings: All Orange Pins: 3.39v, All Red Pins: 5.37v, All Yellow Pins: 12.19v, Gray (Pin 8): 5.35v, Purple (Pin 9): 5.25v, Blue (Pin 14): -11.62. The Red pin voltages have me a little worried because according to this (http://ift.tt/2fzisOp) article the max voltage for Red pins is 5.25v. * 7. Tried breadboarding. PC ran fine for few hours but it runs fine for a few hours in the case as well. So I think breadboarding was inconclusive.
The BIOS speaker beeps once while booting which indicates all is fine with my Award BIOS. One of my mobo standoffs is missing but I put a cardboard between the mobo and case, so I don’t think the mobo is shorting on the back. Also cleaned the mobo as much as I could. I have no overclocks or under volting. There seem to be no loose screws lying around. All cables are plugged in properly. Another thing worth noting is that once it turns off, pressing the power button on the case won’t start the PC. I have to unplug the PC from the wall socket and plug it back in before it can turn on.
Someone help me out here. If more info is needed I'll add it.
Is it only startup times? Is it worth transfering windows to SSD or just keep the SSD for games
I purchased my PC from a site called "PC Specialist" almost 2 years ago, Until now I have had very little problems with my PC. This issue started occurring around a month ago, upon launching certain the error is always the same, it has something to do with "dsound.dll". I have tried to reinstall my .dll files and check for updates but nothing has worked. I then tried to hard wipe my PC from win10 settings however the error "There was a problem resetting your PC" always occurs, I have tried to reset my PC from windows media creation tool and even from bios but nothing has worked so far, I am in desperate need for a fix.
-Thanks
So, I have two motherboards that I haven't been able to test because one of them requires a 8 pin + another 4 pin CPU power connector, and the other one requires two 8 pin CPU power connectors, but no power supply I have has those connectors. Both power supplies I have are semi-modular, and one is even 1050 watt, so if anything I thought that the 1050 watt power supply would have enough connectors, but it doesn't.
What should I do? Are there any extra cables I can buy to plug into the power supply since it's semi-modular? I've googled around the place and can't find any extra CPU power connectors you can buy, only cable extensions.
My PC is called the Acer Aspire T3-710 and it came with 8gb ram but I just tried to install my second 8gb stick and it just shows up as 8gb still.
Ram I used: http://ift.tt/2hEgEI2
Okay so I have 2 fire sticks and I paired one of there remotes to a different fire stick and now I can't connect it back. I really need help.
Hey! :) I have no idea what to price my old pc. Bought the components for a total of 1300€ three and a half years ago. Someone offered me 600€ today; Should I accept? Thank you! Appreciate it!
Full parts list: Processor: Intel i7 4770K 3.5Ghz (overclockable) Graphics card: Gigabyte GTX 770 RAM: 16GB Cosair Vengeance 1600Mhz SSD: 512GB (Crucial M4 256GB + Crucial MX100 256GB) HDD: Seagate barracuda 2TB Motherboard: Asus Z87-PRO Processor cooler: Scythe Mugen 3 Power supply: Corsair Gold AX750 Case: Corsair 500R
All in great condition. No warranty or boxes.
My laptop screen is broken and I wanted to know any way to display it on phone
I know somebody will tell me to google it but I already did that but most of results are about displaying phone screen on laptop not the opposite even if there was results about displaying it on phone, it requires to install the software in both laptop and phone. But my laptop's screen is broken so I can't do anything in laptop. I want all the steps to be on the phone.
Sorry for bad explanation cause I am not a native English speaker. I hope you get what I mean
So I have a wildcard cert for my corp email system which is a hybrid o365 system. Recently to complete our hybrid buildout we brought online a new 2016 server with exchange 2016.
Apparently this through Microsoft's infinite wisdom the system immediately got promoted to the primary server so threw up certificate errors. I got it redirected to the point where it is no longer the primary routing for email. Now though I am trying to get the cert installed on the server. I have been able to get the cert downloaded and imported but the private key will not associate with it. It does not show that there is a private key and I have the private key seperate from it. when I downloaded it from GoDaddy it did not bring the private key with it.
I have tried multiple ways of importing or adding a key to the cert Basically I am trying to figure out if I am doing it wrong somehow or if I am likely just going to need to replace the certificate.
So my girlfriend recently left her iPhone in a bathroom at our university campus. When she realized and went back to check it was already gone, and whoever found it had already turned it off so Find my iPhone doesn't work although I set it to lost mode which can only be applied once the phone is turned back on.
Other than checking all lost & founds, reporting it to campus security, keeping an eye on local buy & sell sites, and putting up posters with a monetary reward, what else can we do in the hopes of finding the phone?
Thanks in advance for any help!
ok I dunno what my internet is doing to my poor network switch but I have lost use of 6 ports on it now. I can still see the computers in my router and they are assigned a IP address but they are not able to get any access across the ports. I switch to a new port and it all goes back working fine. With that said this is the switch I currently have in the system.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what may be causing it? I am going to have to replace it as well so any suggestions on if I should just replace with same or if there is something else I should go with. I currently have 10-14 Ethernet devices plugged in at any givin time.
Thanks for any input.
so, my mobo/psu fried 90% of my PC (including 4 of my Hard drives except my main SSD somehow). I just rebuilt my PC with exact new RMA parts and was able to use my main drive to boot up just fine into windows 7. However my setup is as follows (just focusing on two drives) :
Main SSD for windows/a few games and light startup programs I use a lot
Large mechanical hard drive for pretty much everything else (the one that fried)
So obviously when I booted up with just my SSD a lot of icons/programs were unable to be found.
I also use symbolic linking for a lot of directories and programs between my mechanical and SSD
I'm in the process of getting back my mechanical Hard drive's PCB from being cloned by a service and am faced with two scenarios that I want help with.
Scenario # 1: the board swap works on the drive and I am able to clone it to a new drive (I bought an identical new drive) when I connect it and assign it the correct drive letter that it was originally (it was i) will this make it remember all my programs and bring back icons? And does it have to be in the same sata port even though it's a new mobo?
Scenario # 2: the PCB swap does not work and I confirm that the drive is 100% dead. Will running a registry cleaner clean out all the unrecognized icons and old program stuff left behind?? If so, what's the best program to use for this. I hear CCleaner is pretty crappy now days.
Thanks for any help.
Hi All,
As a relatively new Mac user I have a quick query about Finder. The use of tags seems to be a very useful feature (especially with iCloud making documents available on different devices). Is it possible to do the following:
As an example, assuming I have a folder called “Payslips” - is it possible to automatically tag any file in that folder with the tags “work” and “finance”?
I did a search online but couldn’t see that this is possible automatically.
Many thanks in advance for your help.
I've tried a number of things, DNS settings, pinged my router to check if its dying. Downloaded steam on my girlfriends laptop (have the same issue there) turned off the firewall, done a complete reinstall of windows.
None of these things have resolved the issue, in fact the only thing thats worked is safe mode which seems to completely resolve the issue, however I'm in safe mode which is not ideal.
When downloading a game it just shows as 0Mb/s when not in safe mode and nothing happens. If steam needs to update it reads "Fatal error, please check your Internet connection" or something similar.
I assume, as it only works in safe mode and the same issue occurs on my girlfriends laptop, thats its down to windows and their latest update as i still have the latest update after a fresh install and my girlfriends computer also has the same version installed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So, I currently have a system with 2 WD Blue hard drives running a software Raid 0, the system uses a gigabytes z97p-d3 motherboard, and an i7 4790k with a Samsung 850 Evo 500GB ssd as a boot drive for windows 10 pro. I am about to upgrade this system to an i7 7700k, and an Asus z270f motherboard. Is here anyway for me to transfer my raid array, WITHOUT losing the data?
If you need any more specs of software information I can supply.
Elementary OS Loki + Windows 7
Laptop model: Samsung NP N148 Plus
CPU: Intel Atom Processor N450 @ 1.66Ghz
Memory: 1GB DDR2 SODIMM
N/A
The laptop's battery is bust so it doesn't work without charger. The charger used to work perfectly until a few weeks ago. It now needs it's ferrite bead to be twisted to a certain angle to work but this solution isn't working either now.
About a few weeks ago.
Yes
N/A
No
It's always like that.
I've tried twisting the cable in many different ways but except that, nothing else.
So this issue is giving me lots of problems and I'd like some outside perspective and help.
First the specs:
Intel i7 3770
AMD Radeon HD 7970 (gigabyte version if it matters, no overclock)
Windows 10 creators update installed
main monitor - LG Ultrawide 2560x1080
secondary monitor - Samsung 1920x1080
Now onto the problem:
Yesterday I did an update to my graphics card drivers, I can't fully remember what I was upgrading from however I believe it was around 6months old, 17.2 or similar. This update to my drivers has 'broken' my GPU, in full there are two big issues I've noticed, it has halved the fps when playing games (rainbow 6 siege as benchmark because I was used to 60fps avg while playing but now get 30-35 avg on same settings) and it has created what can only be described as 'tearing' on my 2nd monitor - horizontal lines which cut across the monitor randomly if left untouched or constantly if doing something (while typing this the 2nd monitor is going crazy, with the horizontal lines scrolling upwards and when reaching the top they restart at the bottom).
I have tried multiple solutions and have yet to find anything which has fixed it, quick list; checked hardware connections (hdmi & power to and from monitor), uninstalled new drivers and rolled back to old ones, clean installed new and old drivers (using DDU), turning off 2nd monitor and using main on still has dropped fps in games.
Extra things of note - when the drivers are uninstalled the issues go away (obviously not tried to game but the screen tearing is gone) and when the drivers are re-installed the issues are also not present until the system is restarted.
Thanks for reading, hope you can help me.
TLDR: graphics drivers update has created issues with 2nd monitor screen tearing during all usage (especially when gpu has to update) which doesn't go away when drivers rolled back.
The link to the ssd is: amazon link to ssd
Good Evening,
While trying to back up and reformat my computer, I installed the Windows 10 installation media onto my harddrive, which in turn deleted my backup and the startup programs for the Seagate 1TB Hard drive.
After recovering whatever I could, the 1 TB became a 30 gb harddrive.
Does anyone know what I should do to return the harddrive to the original state?
Thanks!
I've always used MSI Afterburner to check my CPU usage, FPS and so on. Recently the program has stopped working for me, and I've tried installing newer versions. So do you guys know of any good alternatives to this program? And does it depend on what kind of hardware I have? Thanks.
My laptop keeps spamming the K key, the key isnt broken, it works fine when I press it. The spamming stops when I lock my laptop but continues like 5 min after, I have checked startup programs and didnt see anything fishy, I aswell have done a Malwarebytes scan and nothing came up. Any help?
Hi guys i had some problems with my laptop, specifically the video card, i have a Lenovo Z51-70 laptop, it has a amd Radeon R9 m375 graphics, i had the lastest drivers but i had to reinstall Windows because of performance issues, now whenever I try to install the latest drivers i get a different BSOD each time i reboot, the only drivers that work are the old ones from the lenovo site and when i try to open any program that uses the AMD gpu while the lenovo driver is installed i get a BSOD with VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE(atikmpag.sys) which renders the laptop useless as I got it for gaming , photoshop and coding. So please i Really need help and thanks
Specs : Intel Core I5-5200U Amd Radeon R9 m375 4GB 8GB Ram 1Tb HDD 1080p Screen Windows 10 Pro x64 Bit
OS: Windows 10
Okay, so in my fucking archaic university halls, we only have wired internet connection, and we aren't allowed to buy/use our own routers - however, we are allowed to produce a mobile hotspot from our laptops/PCs. Apparently there is a difference in wifi using mobile hotspot vs routers, something to do with IPs?
I can effectively produce a hotspot from my laptop, although the hotspot likes to switch itself off a lot, and it is annoying to always plug the ethernet into it. I can only sometimes produce a hotspot from my PC, but most the time I try it breaks LAN connection for some reason (it won't detect that an ethernet is connect, then it will autoswitch of mobile hotspot, and then ethernet will be detected again).
Is there a device that will work the same way as a mobile hotspot, which can be used like a router?
I might also just buy a router and see if i can make it work anyway.
Hi. I have a Samsung Galaxy XCover 4. Yesterday when I went to bed i turned my phone off. This morning when I woke up I saw my phone was on. Is there an explanation for this?
I have the PC mentioned above and it only has 2.0/3.0 USB ports and that’s it. Is it possible to connect it to another monitor to extend the display, which has a VGA port?. Thanks!
never had any Problems with my Laptop. just as i moved to a new Location, i googled something and closed Chrome. the next time i opened it it was just a black window. micorsoft edge is working just fine, until i noticed that it cant Display YouTube Videos anymore, they are also black. ( also the program overwolf is just a black Screen now)
my Laptop: acer predator 17, Intel hd graphics 530 nvidia Geforce 980m win10 16gb ram
tried the most Things the were most obvious to me like -force reinstalling Chrome -updating Drivers(both Intel and nvidia) -trying to update Flash( but ist integrated in edge so that was weird) --nothing worked--
i am now out of ideas and googling just led to results from 2012, i put my hopes into this sub:)
Windows 10
AMD FX-6300(stock speed, stock cooler)ASUS M5A97 R2.0 2*4 GB Corsair 1600 mHz vengeance cl9(use on stock speed)ASUS R9 380 STRIX 4 GB(factory OC no additional OC)Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB(system disk) 1 TB Seagate STDM1000ASUS VX238HCorsair Carbide 300RCorsair cx600Windows 10 ASUS Fan Xpert Crimson 16.11.4 using clockblocker while gamingUnigine Heaven 4.0, dx11 ultra normal tessellation 4X AA 1080p: score 1068 42.4 avg fps
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Posted Today, 11:09 AMHi. I switched the playback sound device speakers to headphones then revert back to speakers again yesterday. I noticed that left speaker was louder than right despite windows volume controls shows they're equal(speaker properties--levels--audio output). Then i reinstalled the audio drivers and this time right was louder than left. I applied these solutions and none of them worked(sometimes left is louder than right or vice versa): 1/Completely uninstall and reinstall audio drivers and realtek audio tools. I tried different drivers. 2/Disabling all playback devices except speakers 3/Disabling all sound enhancements(windows speaker properties) 4/Trying all audio default formats(speaker properties---->advanced) 5/Trying both relatek audio manager advanced settings there's 2 settings on device advanced settings tab. "mute the rear audio device when a front headphone plugged in" and "make front and rear audio devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously . 6/ I tried both of realtek audio manager connector settings (AC97 and HD front panel) If i choose AC97 right speaker is louder than left. If i choose HD Audio Front panel there's no volume on right speaker. What should i do to resolve this? Is there any values that i tweak/delete in registry
Yesterday
No
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No
1/Completely uninstall and reinstall audio drivers and realtek audio tools. I tried different drivers. 2/Disabling all playback devices except speakers 3/Disabling all sound enhancements(windows speaker properties) 4/Trying all audio default formats(speaker properties---->advanced) 5/Trying both relatek audio manager advanced settings there's 2 settings on device advanced settings tab. "mute the rear audio device when a front headphone plugged in" and "make front and rear audio devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously . 6/ I tried both of realtek audio manager connector settings (AC97 and HD front panel) If i choose AC97 right speaker is louder than left. If i choose HD Audio Front panel there's no volume on right speaker.
Okay so its been 2 weeks or so and everyday at 12 midnight my internet just randomly disconnects. Before harvey hit this has never happend before but afterwards it started when after a week of internet this has been happening.. internet runs normally when its working but when it hits 12 o clock it just dcs for anytime of an hour or more..? I have SPECTRUM Internet. Modem is a SBG6580. The first few weeks of having internet it was perfectly fine but all of a sudden this started to happend?.. thanks in advanced.
every day my Dell UltraSharp U2414H starts on a resolution similar to 640x480 and I must to turn the monitor off and on again in order to display the right resolution.
I googled and only found I should disable "Windows Live Mesh Remote Connections service" but can't find it on windows 10. or there's anything else I should try?
thanks.
I have one gaming PC. My girlfriend and i like to play certain games that are coop. Lets just use the game terraria as an example.
Terraria has no Local split screen multiplayer but it can play online over a server.
I have 2 nice monitors and a PC more than capable of running two instances of the game.
Using a program like sandboxie i can easily launch both games. issue is the "active" window is the only one that accepts inputs. I can block the contoller input from sandboxie pretty easily and i can even make it so the sandboxie accepts inputs from only controller 2.
problem is whichever window isnt active doesnt respond.
Any work around possible for something like this.
Keep in mind this is not piracy question. Only talking about legally acquired games.
Okay so first, my 2nd harddrive randomly spins up with no activity. At first it was steam accessing a game that wasn't linked to steam(not sure why), but I changed the name of the folder it was accessing and it stopped but it keeps spinning up with nothing accessing it. Happens like every 40 minutes or so(never timed it, just a guess) and resource monitor shows no other programs accessing the 2nd drive and there is no disk activity on the graph. Oddly on the storage tab on the disk tab it keeps showing my 2nd drive active for 0.02 seconds or so every second or so even when the harddrive doesn't seem to be spinning. Not sure if this has been happening the entire time and just randomly noticed or if it just started at some point. Main drive is an SSD, with a 1TB HDD for storage and games.
I looked around online and seems only stuff I can find about the issue was it being the main drive or caused by creators update and windows 10, but I have windows 7. I don't torrent or go to shady sites either, so don't see it being a virus or anything(I only go on youtube, reddit and imgur pretty much). Is this some kind of windows bug or something? Because it's getting annoying hearing my drive randomly spin up while watching stuff on youtube or laying in bed, plus it's wear on my drive since it's spinning up every 30-40 minutes or so.
And 2nd question, does anyone know a fix for the corrupted cursor bug? My cursor shows up like this, seems only way to temp fix it is to use Magnifier(which adds some input lag, and cursor gets laggy after awhile) or to totally restart my computer or put it into sleep mode and wake it back up. Restart/sleep fixes it for a short while but comes back after a random amount of time(as far as I know, seems to only show up when im in chrome), and magnifier set to 100% brings back the cursor but adds some input lag and the cursor gets laggy after awhile(clicking on magnifier and minimizing it again seems to fix that, but still) and cursor doesn't show up in games.
Looked around online and people said it was an AMD issue but then people said it happened on Nvidia, then saw people say it was windows but then people say it's been an issue on Linux, so I have totally no idea what is causing the issue and how to fix it...
Does anyone know how to fix either of those issues? Because they're getting really annoying :/ Tried asking on steam about the cursor issue, but I was just told to wipe and reinstall everything, do a virus scan, and to disable some setting in chrome(hardware acceleration I think) which i've tried two of. I've barely just got everything reinstalled on my pc(and still don't have all my games installed), not gonna wipe everything and start all over again, but seems to be the first thing people on steam recommend.
I know this sounds weird but I don't own a 5ghz wifi adapter on my computer. The 2.4ghz frequency in my house isn't working correctly (30down/10up) when it should be (250down/250up). 10 upload isnt fast enough for streaming and uploading youtube videos fast. I was wondering if it was possible to bridge from X1 to PC with the highspeed 5ghz to the pc
I have tried resetting and reinstalling the network adapter, but my laptop will not connect to the 2.4 GHz band at all, every time it says "Can't connect to this network" after the password is put in. This isn't that big of a deal because it connects to the 5Ghz band, but the signal strength is weak in my room, and it occasionally drops out. I am tired of this happening, any advice besides buying a dual band range extender?
Acer laptop, OS is Windows 10, the modem/router is a Technicolor TC8717T from Spectrum, and the adapter is a Qualcomm Atheros AR5BWB22, if that might help.
So, where to start, I was playing HoTs, talking to my friends using Battle nets voice chat when the voice chat and launcher for battlenet crashed and whenever i tried to launch it again, it would just instantly crash, however i was still in the game so i finished the game and decided to try and fix the issue to no luck, so i decided to download Multi-Mc to play modded minecraft when i realized that i needed to install java, but whenever i tried to download it, nothing would happen and no pop up happened to allow me to install it. I figured the issues were connected in some way, and usually a quick restart of the pc would fix it, so i restart my pc, and boom, blue screen of death every start-up with the error inaccessible boot device. I have tried taking out my hard-drive and plugging it back in, and to no luck, still blue screen. Any one have any tips or can tell me if my hard drive went? Thanks
Hey everyone, thanks for any help that can be provided here.
I am attempting to factory reset MY mid 2012 Macbook Pro. I have gone through the process that shows the "OS X Utilities: page with Restore from time machine backup, Reinstall OS X, Get Help Online, and Disk Utility"
When I select "Reinstall OS X" I then agree to the terms. Then it asks me to select the disk where I want to install the OS X. It will not let me select the Macintosh HD drive and says I can not install Mountain Lion because a newer OS X is installed.
Any advice on where to go from here? Thank you!
I have reformatted my computer 10 times total over the course of a year because my install of windows is CONSTANTLY becoming corrupted. I'm really confused because all I ever use this computer for is Reddit, League of Legends, PUBG, and YouTube. I do not go on sketchy websites and even if I do stream NFL/NBA games with their bajillion ads and overlays, I have uBlock Origin and Windows Defender on to prevent sketch ads from messing my computer up. Yet, in the course of two or three months, my installation of League will become corrupt, the game will try to repair itself, and when I try out "SFC /Scannow" in the CMD prompt, it tells me, "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them."
Here are the factors I've considered as problematic and what I've done to try and "fix" these problems:
Somebody. Please. Save me.
64bit OS
The BIOS shows also as 8GB
What I am really trying to find out is if the RAM is bad, or if it's the motherboard.
Running memory diagnostics tool now. - Checked out.
Motherboard: http://ift.tt/2h9AdHE
Hi I just purchased a brand new laptop today and it has had this problem ever since i startes it up for the first time. I tried disabling the fetch thing and windows search and checked that every driver ia up to date. Any one know what I should do?
I factory reset my laptop, and it will not go to the external hdmi component. I removed the screen and it still will not output. The ribbon cable is not connected to anything. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I can't remove the drive from the laptop or anything like that.
I don't know what other program to use. I desperately want to be able to have per program audio device assignments, as in spotify comes out of the speakers and everything else comes out of the tv. The only two programs i have found that can do this are CheVolume and AudioRouter.
Only CheVolume remembers your settings on reboot, audiorouter does not. I'd love to use another program if anyone has any suggestions. Otherwise i really dont know how to fix CheVolume
edit: spotify separates into multiple processes like chrome apparently. Still i have no idea how to make CheVolume work reliably. I absolutely need a program which retains settings after reboot. Audiorouter works really well but doesnt save settings
Specs:
MSI B350 Gaming Plus Am4 Socket Motherboard
Ryzen 5 1600 Processor
EVGA 650W PSU
Asus Strix r9 380 GPU
Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz 16 GB RAM (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15R)
I recently built a pc and after installing Windows 10 I tried to get into the bios settings to start overclocking but whenever i try the bios display is clearly broken in some way, the text overlaps and freezes when trying to change menus or press anything.
Speccy shows my RAM like this - 16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1066MHz (15-15-15-36)
Bios - Version M.30 Date 28/07/2017
This is the closest thing on youtube i could find like my problem
And this is what the bios should look like, does anyone know what might be the problem?
Hey, so I've been playing PUBG recently and doing more Like editting and my PC's been complaining about running out of RAM. So I looked into it and decided to buy a cheap, offbrand new stick of RAM from China, same bus speed and size (4GB) plus a year of warrenty. Put it in and my games keep freezing, like they just stop responding and sound keeps playing until I ctrl-alt-del which fixes it (PUBG just crashes, like 5 times a game).
Tried swapping it for one of my old sticks, same happened.
Would this be due to faulty RAM or it trying to make all 3 sticks work together with possibly different timings / voltages and messing up with that? I can buy another of the same model, which would put it into dual channel mode again I think? What's my best bet?
Cheers
For the past couple of days my microphone hasn’t been picking up my voice at all. it’s not muted and it’s set as my primary device for a microphone. It’s a Realtek desk mic. and i tried it on another desktop and it worked just fine. so I’d assume that it’s got something to do w/ the audio settings of my pc. pls HELP
Hi guys, I was hoping to unwind in front of my PC and play Project Cars 2 with my G27.
The G27 had other ideas, however.
Firstly, I am getting a green blinking light at the shifter, and initially the wheel does move upon initial configuration, but only very slightly.
I have completely removed every reference to the wheel, any software (using Wheelcleaner), and removed and updated drivers. I have pulled it apart to visually/mechanically inspect, but saw nothing untoward on either the PCB or wiring.
I replaced the power supply completely with a $50AU brand newy, but no change.
Even in calibration using Logitech profiler and the game controller dialog, all buttons and pedals register input, but the wheel itself does not.
Running out of patience here, and I have heard that out of warranty, there isn't much I can do.
I read that the optical sensor can 'go bad', but I fail to see how this can happen with the wheel just sitting around for months after working the last time. I will pull apart again to have a look later tonight though.
Please help, what else can I try?
Related, but probably not relevant at this stage, but the Logitech profiler software does show a DFGT not a G27 in the main image and I have watched THAT YouTube guide on how to fix, but made no difference....
Edit: this video https://youtu.be/SV0kYPRLboE
I just came back from the holiday without touching my PC and suddenly when I pushed the power button, nothing turned on. Not even the lights.
Is it possible to keep my very old, non-internet-based landline?
I know that's not popular, but I've been in 2 major earthquakes and the wired landlines were the only thing that kept working during them.
(Also, the calls are much clearer, but that's not as important.)
All the DSL providers I can find insist that you switch to their "just as good!" pseudo-landline phone when you sign up for their DSL.
When your DSL goes, it means your phone's gone, too. This is no bueno.
We don't have Google fiber here yet.
Any hope?
Thanks.
Windows 8.1
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchantType|Item|Price:----|:----|:----CPU | Intel - Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $180.00 CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $38.00 Motherboard | MSI - Z97M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $70.00 Memory | Corsair - XMS3 2GB (1 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $0.00 Memory | Corsair - XMS3 2GB (1 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $0.00 Memory | Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $18.00 Memory | Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $18.00 Storage | Western Digital - AV-GP 320GB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $20.00 Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.00 Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card |-Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $55.00 Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80 Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.00 Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 8.1 Pro 32/64-bit | $50.00 Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $30.00 Case Fan | Corsair - Air Series White 2 pack 52.2 CFM 120mm Fan | $20.00 Monitor | Sceptre - E225W-1920 22.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $80.00 Keyboard | Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $20.00 Mouse | Razer - DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse | $58.00 Headphones | Sennheiser - HD 598 CS Headphones | $180.00 | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | | Total | $972.00 | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-29 18:13 EDT-0400 |
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So recently my card info was compromised and some people tried to buy a shit ton of shit with it. I'm worried that they might've gotten my info via keylogging or some malware in my computer, despite my best efforts of using uBlock origin and semi-weekly scans with malwarebytes. I have a couple questions:
1) Is there any way to determine if they got the info from my computer rather than my phone or from some other method?
2) Would scanning my system with malwarebytes, hitman pro and emisoft emergency kit suffice or would I need to reformat my whole computer if there was a keylogger? Would reformatting even guarantee safety or would I need to purchase a new hardrive?
If this helps any, they withdrew one dollar and then put one dollar back in before they attempted all the major purchases.
Today
No
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Currently just scanning with the aforementioned software.
I recently got a new motherboard and some 3000mhz ram , both of which I got new whilst on sale.
Only problem is the ram has been stuck on 2133 and I don't know what to do from here.
The motherboard is Z170 (Supermicro C7Z170-M) so no problem there. They are on dual channel on the slots to be used first as stated on the motherboard manual. I cannot find anything related to XMP on the bios either. And going through CPU-Z it indeed confirms that my rams model goes to 3000mhz but is stuck at 2132.
Kinda stumped here , any suggestions?
I have recently discovered while trying to remove cookies that when I do and proceed to relaunch chrome, none of them have been deleted. If however I do it multiple times, it removes all of the cookies except 3 or so, one of which is this 'gstatic.com' and a few just named 'google.com' channel 1-3. These cookies, quite obviously malware/adware go on to spam a tonne of new cookies to random pages I have never heard of. I have deleted all of chrome's files, removing all bookmarks and everything. Ran Adware cleaning software, antivirus scans the works... but nothing seems to remove this gstatic.com which will then persist after each browsing session and spam more cookies which is annoying me to no end. Any advice/help would be welcome. Thank you.
So my left arrow keys dosen't work on anything, exsept for DOOM4, Which means my key on the keyboard is fine but somehow it's unassigned on everything except for doom? anyway to re activate it? I'm using Windows 10
Im getting this on boot. Please help.
I thought I had my first problem with the R9 390 GPU I bought nearly 2 years ago. I pulled it out, cleaned and examined it, and reinstalled to see if anything changed. Nothing looked out of the ordinary physically on the GPU, but the PC still did not detect it. The fans were not running on the GPU, either, so I assumed the card must have burnt out. I went out and picked up a new GPU and installed it. I powered up the PC and the new GPU lit up and fans spun. Went to check the monitor and didn't get any picture. Checked the GPU again and the fans were no longer spinning, but the GPU logo was still lit up. Restarted the PC, but with the monitor connected to integrated motherboard graphics to see if the GPU is being detected. It was not. I've tried reinstalling the GPU in the other PCI-E slot and had the same result. Could my motherboard be the culprit here? I'm using an Asrock Z77 OC Formula with an i5-3570k. The new GPU I tried installing is a GTX 1070.
Other
BenQ GW2470H - LED monitor - Full HD (1080p) - 23.8"
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So I have this screen. I use it for Playing PS4. It doesn't have a speaker built in but it does have a headphone jack. I also have a small bluetooth speaker which has some sort of audio jack. If I buy the right connector can I connect these 2 devices and if yes what should I be buying?
No
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Nothing
Nothing
Hello Guys,
I really could use some advice right now. My brother wanted to build a pc, so i tried to help him, we ordered everything and build it together. Now it does not really work and my brother is heartbroken. Please help me be a good brother :/ Sorry in advance for my english, I am from germany. Our Build is here: https://goo.gl/grJN94
In general, I have:
-MSI B350 PC MATE AMD B350 So.AM4 Dual Channel DDR4 ATX Retail -8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX schwarz DDR4-3000 DIMM CL15 Dual Kit -AMD Ryzen 5 1600 6x 3.20GHz So.AM4 BOX -6GB KFA2 GeForce GTX 1060 OC Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 (Retail) -500 Watt be quiet! System Power 8 Non-Modular 80+ -EKL Ben Nevis Tower Kühler
Now we do have this very wierd problem: We tried to start the pc but (besides all fans running) the monitor did not show any image. I checked the warning lights on board of the Motherboard and suggested to try to test the RAM: We put the RAM into Slot 2 and 4, as you are supposed to with this Motherboard. It didnt work. So we decided to check if one of the RAM-Parts wasn´t working. We put one of the memory latchs into each available slots and it booted. We put the other memory latch into each available slot, it booted. We put both memory latchs together into slot 1 and 3 it booted. Then slot 2 and 4 and NOP, it did not boot again. Confused we switched it back to Slot 1 and 3 and tried again. It failed suddenly. Now we have found this problem:
The PC boots up never when RAM is in Slot 2 and 4, in around 50% of the cases when the RAM is in Slot 1 and 3.
If it boots up, first the red warning lights of the CPU and VRAM turn on for 3 seconds, turn off again, then the VGA warning lights turns on for 3 seconds before turning off again, and then the monitor shows an image and you can get into the boot menu.
If it doesn´t work, no warning lights turn on at all and the monitor does not get any data.
Any suggestions, as stupid as they might sound are welcome!
Is there any way to take a look inside this old backup that I have saved to see if there are any pictures or documents without using the "backup now" software that created it?
I read a tip about trying to change it to a .zip file but that didn't help.
I don't want to download their software if I don't need to and I definitely do not need the whole backup I just want to see if there were any documents I may want to copy out of it.
Thanks!
My Samsung UN60JS7000f TV turned off suddenly while I was watching a show and it will not turn back on. There is no longer a light of any kind like their usually is when the TV is off.
I tried using a different outlet, tried unplugging the power cable from both ends and leaving it for hours, and I bought a new power cable to try. No luck so far.
I am out of warranty and figure I will try to open it up and fix it myself. Just hoping for some experienced people to help me out and provide suggestions on what to test and how to fix it? What tools do I need?
I suspect, but I don't know for sure, this is because I wiped down the trackpad with a paper towel.
I just got this in June. Acer Aspire V 15 Touch VN7-572TG-775T running Windows 10. It's been behaving up til now.
The track pad just started acting up a few minutes ago. It will be hyposensitive, hypersensitive, misinterpret my input (e.g. perform a 3-finger command for a 2-finger gesture), stutter (e.g. the cursor will refuse to move past a certain latitude on the screen), select things I didn't (intend to) select, etc.
I have tried restarting. I am currently taking advantage of the touch screen capabilities, although obviously this is sub-optimal. Sometimes it will seem to be back to normal, but then resume misbehaving.
Is this static buildup in the track pad? Is this a virus? How do I fix this?
I'm using a Lenovo y500 with windows 8. Every time i try to boot my computer it brings me to a blue screen that says "Your PC has ran into a problem", then it brings back to the Lenovo boot screen where it says "preparing automatic repair".
So far I've only been able to get to InsydehH2O Setup Utility, and at this point I just want to do a hard reset and restore to factory settings. How can I do this without being able to get past the blue "Your PC has ran into a problem" screen? Thanks
It used to just have broadcom 802.11n network adapter and Realtek PCle Family controller.
Now it has all there WAN Miniports listed as well, why?
I can boot the computer up then it starts making constant beeping noises. I am unable to use the F keys correctly. All i get is beeps when I press them. It sometimes opens to windows boot manager and gives me the status 0xc000000f.
It suggests putting in the windows 7 disk but I unfortunately do not own one.
I tried using a windows 10 cd installation but the computer does not launch it and I cannot access the boot manager. The disk has another file on it which might be a problem.
Is the computer fixable?
A System Information Report contains all specs of your machine and is exported as a .txt file. I plan on running a System Report on the X1 I may buy and comparing it to the report you give me.
How to generate a System Information Report:
The seller claims that it's 100% brand new but is it selling for over 30% below MSRP. I am primarily focused on ensuring that the SSD, CPU, GPU, display and battery are all original and that the battery cycle count is low.
Be sure to check for any personal info in the report (e.g. your computer name, how much storage you've used, etc.) that you may not want to share.
Thank you!
Today, when I checked out my router settings for port forwarding I saw options like start match port/end match port and start relate port/end relate port. I don't know what these means. I have never seen such options in port forwarding. I want to forward ports for a game called Rainbow 6 Siege because my NAT type is moderate and I face rubberbanding issues alot so, I was hoping if anyone here could help me out with port forwarding. I have dlink DIR 615 router.
Here is the image of options that I see in my router settings.
This week people searched for free coffee, the death of a media mogul, help with IKEA tasks and new wheels from Ford. And as Puerto Rico reels from the devastation of Hurricane Maria, people want to know how they can help. Here are the top trends of the week, with data from Google News Lab.
Puerto Rico continues to grapple with the aftermath of Hurricane Maria, which left many without power and desperate for food, electricity and communication services. People in the U.S. continue to search for “hurricane donation” (interest went up 185% this week), as well as “How powerful was Hurricane Maria?” “How to donate to Puerto Rico” and “What is the Jones Act?” (A law that was waived to get relief to Puerto Rico quicker). The top regions searching for Puerto Rico were Florida, Connecticut and New Jersey.
Wake up and smell the coffee—it’s National Coffee Day! And everyone is after the free java, with searches like, “Is Starbucks doing anything for National Coffee Day?” “Who gives free coffee on National Coffee Day?” and “What is National Coffee Day at Dunkin Donuts?” Cold brew coffee, butter coffee, and Irish coffee (for those starting early…) are the most searched types of coffee this week.
Hugh Hefner passed away this week at the age of 91. Upon hearing the news, people searched to find out more about Hefner’s fortune and infamous love life: “How much was Hugh Hefner worth?” “Who gets Hugh Hefner’s money?” and “Who was Hugh Hefner married to?” Hefner will be buried next to Marilyn Monroe, Playboy’s first cover girl (search interest in Monroe went up 570% this week as well).
This week, two of the top searched questions about IKEA were: “How to build IKEA Tarva nightstand” and “How to remove IKEA drawer front.” Well, now you can get some help with that. This week, IKEA closed a deal to buy the online errand company TaskRabbit so that the dreaded phrase “assembly required” will become slightly less scary. Those who are keen on IKEA are searching the most for dressers, desks, rugs, kitchen cabinets and beds.
Ford is getting revved up with its new F-450 Super Duty Limited truck, which can cost as much as $100,000 and tows 15 tons … talk about luxury. Search interest for the new truck went into overdrive—“Ford Truck” was searched 2000% more than “Ford SUV.” People are doing their due diligence on the Super Duty, searching “Where is the F-250 Super Duty made?” “What is the MPG of a Ford Super Duty Diesel?” and “What roof bars fit a Ford Super Duty?”
I work as an IT support technician for a hospital, and per one of our many policies we are not to be assisting our customers with support issues outside of work. I had a physician contact me the other day regarding setting up a personal router at home. I iterated to him that I was unfortunately not allowed to assist (it's call a no-moonlighting clause), but I was wondering who I could refer him to for support. Off the top of my head, I could only think of directing him to the Geek Squad at Best Buy, but I am unsure if they are even able to assist. What do you suggest be done in this situation? I still want to be able to at least provide some guidance.
I work for a computer management and repair, roughly 11 people, depending on the tasks.
We've setup more computers than I recall. Though I don't normally work on bench anymore, as I'm mostly onsite more often due to increase work, I was asked to assist the bench due to the main guy being out.
One of our steps to curve the annoyances of windows 10, is to clear the startmenu of the bloatware, including the suggested apps listing. However, referring to the image below, the option to disable suggested apps in the window that appears, is not there. On my work computer it is still there.
Both the client and my computers are up to date. Both windows 10 pro. The only difference with the client's computer, it had a file transfer from windows 7 to 10. Client is not a company, just a home user, so no domain. To my knowledge, the client has no special GPOs.
Windows 10
LG43UD79 quad monitor: 2 HDMIs 4K 60P, 2 HDMIs 4K 30P and 1DP input.
AMD R9 370 graphics card: 2 DVIs, 1 HDMI and 1 DP output.
N/A
The fourth area of the quad monitor always stays black.
Last Week
No
15/09/2017
Yes
I plugged everything behind the monitor with the right cables:* DP to DP cable* DVI to HDMI cable* DVI to HDMI cable* HDMI to HDMI cable
Tried to reinstall the graphics card driver from scratch, nothing changed.* Tried to use an older version of graphics card driver but it doesn't exist.
Tried to switch cables behind the monitor. The black area of the 4th just moves to another area of the monitor.
I had DVI-HDMI adaptors and purchased cables that are HDMI-DVI ready but it didn't help.
Is the graphics card really the problem? On AMD website it writes:AMD EYEFINITY TECHNOLOGY1 (MAXIMUM DISPLAYS) 3 with DVI/HDMI, 4 using DisplayPort, 6 with an MST hubThanks!
Good Morning,
This week, my sister gave me her older iPod touch to use at the gym. She hasn't used it in a while. I formatted it and attempted to use it but it turns out it's locked to her Apple account. I asked her about it and she can't even say what email it's linked to as she no longer use iTunes. Is there a way I can reformat it or unlock it so I can still use it?
Ever since that I updated my Windows 10 my Windows can't detect the internet connect.
I can't download on Windows store. I can't update my Steam I can't update my Antivirus
and my DellTechSupport isn't helping at all.
This is the list of error that I received.
Pretty much every application that was installed on my Computer can't be updated.
PS: My Windows is Legit. My Laptop is just brand new. My Antivirus is also legit..
PPS: I admit that I did that I downloaded pirated application before but that was it
Thanks whoever can answer. for those who tried thank you also. Help me.
(edited for format)
Hello,
I downloaded Fallout 4, played about 20 hours of it, loved it. About 9 days ago Microsoft pushed out a Windows 10 update, which I downloaded and applied. After applying, I can launch Fallout 4...but there's not visual. I can hear the game. I can hear that pressing enter or clicking is engaging the menu. Just can't see anything. I've tried the following:
-Updated GPU drivers;
-Ensured that Fallout 4 was using my GPU
-Emailed Bethesda tech support (hahahhahaha...ha :( )
-Tried various window settings under "Options" -- windowed mode, borderless.
-modified the ini files to make sure the Fallout 4 window fits on, or is slightly smaller then, my screen, as described here: https://youtu.be/bceFnGPNNAA
-tried everything here: http://ift.tt/2xLlmJG
-confirmed the integrity of game files via Steam
-deleted all Fallout 4 ini files, then confirmed the integrity of the game files via Steam, forcing Steam to re-download the files
-Uninstalled Steam and Fallout 4, and reinstalled.
-Tried setting Fallout 4 to "Run as admin"
-Tried running with my antivirus and Windows Defender disabled
-Added TdrDelay to my registry, as per http://ift.tt/2xLlyIG
The weird thing is, I downloaded nvidia inspector and can see the GPU is being "used" while the game is running...the screen is just black.
Any advice? Please, I'm desperate.
DxDiag file:
Time of this report: 9/22/2017, 10:41:16 Machine name: [redacted] Machine Id: {A359987B-6E88-4330-A980-4B2E38C160ED} Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 15063) (15063.rs2_release.170317-1834) Language: English (Regional Setting: English) System Manufacturer: Acer System Model: Aspire 8951G BIOS: InsydeH2O Version V1.04 Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2630QM CPU @ 2.00GHz (8 CPUs), ~2.0GHz Memory: 8192MB RAM Available OS Memory: 8044MB RAM Page File: 4875MB used, 11360MB available Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS DirectX Version: DirectX 12 DX Setup Parameters: Not found User DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent) System DPI Setting: 120 DPI (125 percent) DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled Miracast: Not Available
Microsoft Graphics Hybrid: Not Supported DxDiag Version: 10.00.15063.0000 64bit Unicode
Display Tab 1: No problems found. Display Tab 2: No problems found. Sound Tab 1: No problems found. Sound Tab 2: No problems found. Input Tab: No problems found.
Direct3D: 0/4 (retail) DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail) DirectInput: 0/5 (retail) DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail) DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail) DirectSound: 0/5 (retail) DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)
Card name: Intel(R) HD Graphics 3000 Manufacturer: Intel Corporation Chip type: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family DAC type: Internal Device Type: Full Device Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0116&SUBSYS_05661025&REV_09 Device Status: 0180200A [DN_DRIVER_LOADED|DN_STARTED|DN_DISABLEABLE|DN_NT_ENUMERATOR|DN_NT_DRIVER]
Device Problem Code: No Problem Driver Problem Code: Unknown Display Memory: 1760 MB Dedicated Memory: 128 MB Shared Memory: 1632 MB Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz) Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor Monitor Model: unknown Monitor Id: CMO1807 Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (59.999Hz) Output Type: Internal Driver Name: igdumd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll Driver File Version: 9.17.0010.4459 (English) Driver Version: 9.17.10.4459 DDI Version: 11.1 Feature Levels: 10_1,10_0,9_3,9_2,9_1 Driver Model: WDDM 1.2 Graphics Preemption: DMA Compute Preemption: DMA Miracast: Not Supported Hybrid Graphics GPU: Not Applicable Power P-states: Not Applicable Driver Attributes: Final Retail Driver Date/Size: 5/18/2016 8:00:00 PM, 12935296 bytes WHQL Logo'd: Yes WHQL Date Stamp: Unknown Device Identifier: {D7B78E66-4256-11CF-EC52-6B25B3C2DB35} Vendor ID: 0x8086 Device ID: 0x0116 SubSys ID: 0x05661025 Revision ID: 0x0009 Driver Strong Name: oem66.inf:5f63e534c4a6341c:iSNBM0:9.17.10.4459:pci\ven_8086&dev_0116 Rank Of Driver: 00D12001 Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeWMV9_C ModeVC1_C DXVA2 Modes: DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_VLD DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_IDCT DXVA2_ModeWMV9_IDCT DXVA2_ModeVC1_IDCT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_NoFGT
Deinterlace Caps: {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend {BF752EF6-8CC4-457A-BE1B-08BD1CAEEE9F}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_EdgeFiltering {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch {5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY VideoProcess_AlphaBlend D3D9 Overlay: Supported DXVA-HD: Supported DDraw Status: Enabled D3D Status: Enabled AGP Status: Enabled MPO Caps: Not Supported MPO Stretch: Not Supported MPO Media Hints: Not Supported MPO Formats: Not Supported
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GT 555M Manufacturer: NVIDIA Chip type: GeForce GT 555M DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC Device Type: Full Device Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0DCE&SUBSYS_05661025&REV_A1 Device Status: 0180200A [DN_DRIVER_LOADED|DN_STARTED|DN_DISABLEABLE|DN_NT_ENUMERATOR|DN_NT_DRIVER]
Device Problem Code: No Problem Driver Problem Code: Unknown Display Memory: 6022 MB Dedicated Memory: 2000 MB Shared Memory: 4021 MB Current Mode: Unknown Driver Name: C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\nvaci.inf_amd64_6147fc7a2f2c292f\nvldumdx.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\nvaci.inf_amd64_6147fc7a2f2c292f\nvldumdx.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\nvaci.inf_amd64_6147fc7a2f2c292f\nvldumdx.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\nvaci.inf_amd64_6147fc7a2f2c292f\nvldumdx.dll Driver File Version: 22.21.0013.8569 (English) Driver Version: 22.21.13.8569 DDI Version: 11.4 Feature Levels: 11_0,10_1,10_0,9_3,9_2,9_1 Driver Model: WDDM 2.1 Graphics Preemption: DMA Compute Preemption: DMA Miracast: Not Supported Hybrid Graphics GPU: Not Supported Power P-states: Not Supported Driver Attributes: Final Retail Driver Date/Size: 9/15/2017 8:00:00 PM, 893456 bytes WHQL Logo'd: Yes WHQL Date Stamp: Unknown Device Identifier: Unknown Vendor ID: 0x10DE Device ID: 0x0DCE SubSys ID: 0x05661025 Revision ID: 0x00A1 Driver Strong Name: oem24.inf:0f066de3334fecfa:Section002:22.21.13.8569:pci\ven_10de&dev_0dce&subsys_05661025 Rank Of Driver: 00D10001 Video Accel: Unknown DXVA2 Modes: DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_IDCT DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_VLD DXVA2_ModeVC1_D2010 DXVA2_ModeVC1_VLD DXVA2_ModeVC1_IDCT DXVA2_ModeWMV9_IDCT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_Stereo_Progressive_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_Stereo_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeMPEG4pt2_VLD_Simple DXVA2_ModeMPEG4pt2_VLD_AdvSimple_NoGMC
Deinterlace Caps: n/a D3D9 Overlay: Unknown DXVA-HD: Unknown DDraw Status: Enabled D3D Status: Enabled AGP Status: Enabled MPO Caps: Not Supported MPO Stretch: Not Supported MPO Media Hints: Not Supported MPO Formats: Not Supported