This is most noticeable when i watch YouTube or Netflix, the menus that pop up when I hover over the videos with the options are randomly appearing. Not touching my mouse or anything.
New Build, Msi B350 Tomahawk board. Not sure how to fix this. Changed XMP Setting for ram to 3200 and enabled game boost for cpu to clock at 3.6 ghz. Any help is appreciated.
Hey everyone! I just had two quick questions. Basically for the past two days my computer has been shutting off when I try to start playing PUBG or at the end of a DotA 2 match. Now, one thing to keep in mind is that I live in Arizona and currently the room's temperature is 80 - 82 degrees. I have some heat blocking window shit coming in the mail to hopefully fix that issues. Anyway, when starting a match, CPU temps get to 57 and I have it water cooled with Kraken x61. Veiwing the event log gives me this: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first.
Here are my idling temps: http://ift.tt/2tzIF8i PSU: http://ift.tt/2u97WDi
So this leads me to think it's just overheating. I ordered some new thermal paste as well.
One other issues is that my GPU fans won't automatically adjust for the game that's being played. I have to turn on MSI afterburner for it to adjust by itself. Is that normal? If not, how do I fix it?
Thank you guys for any help!
So I know nothing about computers but this has been bugging me for a while now. Whenever I'm on Safari on my Macbook and I use Ebay this strange background pops up. Here's a link to an example.
It doesn't do this on any other browser except Safari and I tested it on another Macbook and it only happens on mine. Does anybody know what it is or how to fix it? Thank you so much for whoever helps!
Screenshot of Task Manager and Resource Monitor
I'd like to know what's taking up my memory. I've got 16GB DDR3 RAM, but my system is always above 90% memory usage. Launching games or Adobe Programs makes it hit 100%, and they freeze up or get very laggy.
Resource Monitor says I have 16384MB of installed memory, but when I added up the usage of all of the processes, it came out to just over 600MB. I must have processes running that don't show up in either program. How can I find and kill these processes?
Restarting the computer brings it down to about 7% usage on idle for 10-15 minutes. After that it crawls back up to 90+%
Running Windows 10. Let me know if you'd like any more information. Help would be GREATLY appreciated.
[edit] Ran a full Malwarebytes scan which didn't detect anything (scanned memory, startup files, registry, and file system).
I'd like to connect my phone to itunes to get music but it won't connect. When I try to connect my iphone 5s to a computer with the USB cord it will charge but won't connect. Before my computer (Windows 10) would ask what I'd like to do with the device but not any more. My phone also doesn't ask me if I want to "trust" the device. My iphone is also updated.
I tried plugging into my dad's computer and it still doesn't work, however my dad's computer and itunes will see his phone (also an iphone 5s). Our apple IDs are joined somehow if that makes a difference. I've tried different cords and both my and my dad's itunes are both up to date. One site told me to set some apple usb driver to "install". It was called 64.int or .sys or something like that. Still nothing. Thanks.
Trying to connect 6 Samsung UHDTVs to a computer at my internship. The computer has two nVidia Quadro P5000's with 4 DisplayPorts each, and I have an active HDMI/DP adapter for each TV. The TV's were mounted today, and we tried hooking one up with one of the 50' HDMI cables we ordered. The computer detected the screen and acted as if it was there, but there was no image on the TV.
TV model: 75" Class JU6500 4K UHD Smart TV
Cable model: Dynex DX-HG507
Adapter model:Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070)
Today
Yes
Unplugging HDMI cable and plugging back in.
Tried a second HDMI cable of the same brand, same issue.
Tried connecting to different HDMI ports on the TV and different display ports on the computer, same issue.
Tried straightening out cable, same issue.
Tried connecting with a shorter HDMI cable (30'), works as intended.
This afternoon while on PC, my Corsair Cherry MX keyboard malfunctioned after being completely fine for three hours of use, spamming ////////// and random series of numbers in all chat boxes. This lasted for about 10 minutes, making it impossible to type but still allowing me to control WASD while playing Overwatch, which I thought was rather strange. Thinking it was a minor issue, I restarted PC in an attempt to fix it, and it auto-booted me into MSI BIOS where my HDD was disabled. This is a custom built PC with no technical issues prior to today, I'll post the specs down below. Fixes I've tried:
None of these have fixed the problem.
PC Specs:
-Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz
-GPU: 8192MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 390 Series
-Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING PRO (MS-7984) (U3E1)
Thanks in advance for any help.
If it matters, here is some context.
I have Internet through Mediacom. I'm supposed to get 200 Mbps, but typically get under 50--often under 5.
After several calls and visits, Mediacom's techs are just less and helpful. Last time, the phone rep said she'd run a test that showed there was a problem with the line in my yard (which seemed realistic, because it had recently been cut by a neighbor digging--it was supposedly fixed since then, but I wasn't surprised to here there were still problems).
The tech arrived and began working outside without notifying me. No big deal, since the work would likely be all outside, due to the bad line. But then the tech also left without talking to me to tell me what he found, and the problem still persists.
Mediacom puts me in a loop when I call, but I was able to find some notes from the tech on my account that say "SRN DROPPED ON CARD ONCE."
Does that mean anything? I just thought if I had some idea of what the test showed, that would give me a foothold to actually get some help from Mediacom.
I currently have a Seagate 8TB Backup Plus Hub external drive, and a Netgear WNDR4500 router. I had planned to connect the drive to the router and use the ReadyShare feature, but it did not work, and from what I read online it seems it will not work due to the router. I saw several recommendations that with this storage size I should look into NAS instead. Please correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I can tell, it should be easy to remove the hard drive from the external case so I can put it in the NAS.
Primarily, I would like to use it for backups from two different computers (potentially 5TB of data between the two of them), as well as to be able to access these files over the internet from my Android phone. I'd also like to stream videos from it, and if possible use it to host a very basic static website for personal use and an RSS feed. Is a NAS appropriate for these uses?
I also have an older computer that I intend to set up later to host small video game servers. Would this be a better device for some or all of the uses I listed above? Due to heating reasons, I will be setting it up in a different location on a different network, so I assume it would not be ideal for backup, but perhaps for the webhosting?
If I do go with the NAS, are there any recommendations on which one? I am currently looking at the Synology DS216 line, trying to decide between the 'se', 'j', standard or 'play' models.
Finally, is wanting to do all this a major security mistake? Am I running a big risk by backing up to the same device that I'd like to be accessible over the internet?
While I always unplug my PC and other important electrical gaget during thunderstorms etc. sometimes there are unseen power outages and my computer seems to automatically try to restart after that. However, there have been some cases where power gets off from my household for a second or so with it repeating quickly soon after, with my computer trying to reboot and power going out again in middle of it. At one point this caused my Windows 10 to apparently get messed up and I had to use it's reboot fix tool thing to get it back to normal. I don't have time to turn off the extencion lead where my PC is plugged into since power comes back quickly and I don't dare to cut power fromthe it after my PC has started firing off.
My laptop has been unable to boot up for almost 9 hours due to what's mentioned in the title. It's been stuck at 100%. Is this to be expected? Thanks in advance.
A few days ago my Samsung Note 4 stopped being able to call or use data or anything. It says that the Sim is unregistered even though it works in another phone. I also took a different Sim card in it and the same thing happens. I've already tried rebooting it and I went and manually picked a network operator. I am running out of ideas please help!
I started up a new web server - I can access the sites from within our network but not anywhere else.
I am hosting on Windows Server 2012 R2 with IIS. I've set up port forwarding to 80 and pointed the domains to the IP address of the server. When loaded on a remote computer - the site says, "This site can't be reached. ...took too long to respond." I can ping the IP address within the network as well but not outside. Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
It is so easy to install the fan without the motherboard straight onto the backplate. When I put the motherboard inbetween, its impossible. Its only possible to screw one side in and the other is lifted above the hole. I tried threading opposite sides very slowly but to no avail, been trying for like 20 minutes now. Im stuck.
Yesterday I spilled a drink on my keyboard, which led to it triggering multiple buttons so that my screen was constantly opening and closing programs and writing stuff for a good few seconds before I came to my sense and unplugged the keyboard.
I cleaned the keyboard and let it dry over the night, and now it works perfectly again. The only problem is that my computer doesn't.
When i start my computer with my usual 2-monitor setup, it looks perfectly normal for a few seconds. Then, without me doing anything, my main-monitor (144hz, the other one being a different sized 60hz one), shows something which would be expected from a monitor that has been kicked or something: http://ift.tt/2us7WxI
At first I thought I had spilled my drink on the monitor as well without noticing thus ruining it, but there are no signs of that. However, when I start my computer using only my 60hz screen, everything works perfectly.
When I start the computer I go through the usual routine, which involves activating AMD's "Game Booster", which Basically closes all small and unnecessary programs to boost performance. Now here comes the odd part: After activating this program, I can plug in my 144hz screen with no complications what-so-ever, everything works perfectly again.
I believe that Perhaps i changed some settings or something when my keyboard was going bananas, although I have no idea How to fix this or what the actual cause of the problem is. Considering everything works if i plug it in past startup, there is bound to be something revolving that. Any ideas?
Sorry for the wall of text, hopefully someone can help me with this.
I left my pc open for the night. When i woke up i found it closed and thought there might have been a blackout. I tired opening it and it gave no response. Tested the wallplugs for electricity, that wasn't the issue.
So the issue is, my pc doesn't get electricity for some reason, some people said a power surge might have done it, and since its not an old pc, they said the psu probably burnt, but protecting other parts of the case. But the issue is, where i live has a special protection against power surges, we lived here for over 6 years and none of our electronics had any problems. What might be the solution ? what shouldni try ? Its still on warranty on the side note, just wanna try and fix it so that its not a little error over my side.
TL;DR Left pc open over night and morning its shutdown and doesn't recieve any electricity, thus not working/opening.
I've never had this problem before on this computer. I just built it a few weeks ago, and everything has been working wonderfully. i5 6600k, rx580, 16gb ram, Windows 10. I have downloaded some new games on the PC recently, and all of them have this awful jerky lag. Even the simplest of games. The games are all on different platforms (Steam, Origin, Pop Cap, Battle.net) so it cannot be a platform issue. The previously downloaded games work fine. This is getting really frustrating, especially since I've spent the past week trying to troubleshoot and research what it could be. Please help, thanks!!
Hello, I was using my PC yesterday (browsing the web) and it crashed with a pure black screen. I ignored it. Today again as I was watching a video, the PC crashed and on trying to reboot gave me the 3 tone beep on power on indicating RAM issues. So I plugged the RAM stick in a different port and it started up fine. Now again the PC crashed and on trying to reboot it gave me this screen http://ift.tt/2u7lXS4
And now it fails to boot into Windows. Someone on Tom's Hardware suggested I use a MemTest utility to check for memory errors. On doing so I got the following result http://ift.tt/2ty5hGt (basically says no errors).
It should be pointed out that BIOS accepts key inputs which let me choose the correct boot source (USB) for the MemTest. I also managed to boot into windows(Safe mode) once, but the the colors were all off as seen here http://ift.tt/2u70PLE Can anyone diagnose the problem for me?
Gigabyte 970A-DS3
FX-6100
HD-7770
HyperX Blu 8GB
WD 2 TB
All help appreciated, thanks.
I have tested with two different computer screens and different hdmi cables but the screens won't show anything. I think the graphic card is the problem but not sure, suggestions?
Thanks for help!
Hi gang, This one is for my fellow IT Admins in the school sector. I currently run ALL the IT needs for a small art college in London. One of the biggest questions I am asked every single day is to do with our printing systems. Whether it be how to turn off double sided, print on transparencies, print A3 etc etc. I have all of these documents detailed and accessible via the IT / Moodle page as PDF's. There is not enough room on the walls to print and post such info and it would look horrid on the wall displayed in such a manner in my nice cool computer room. My question is more of a probing one wondering what other IT peeps are doing to ensure their information is actually being read and that the IT person is not endlessly repeating themselves day in day out.
Bear in mind these are university level art students, usually with a low capacity for understanding technology and usually some level of dyslexia. We obviously have a website but that is essentially the same as posting it on Moodle.
I keep getting notifications everyday to check my privacy settings before installing the creators update and I have no clue what its talking about. I googled it, but still didn't really get much of it.
Dropped Dell Vostro 5470 ages ago, screen smashed etc. I took the screen off but my little brother now put it in safe mode and I can't see what I'm doing on the monitor. I have now factory reset the hard drive and i have Kali Linux on my USB How can i try make it boot? also my LCD port in my laptop is broken.
is it possible to do anything? i dont really mind it not being fixed as it has been in this state for ages and i only rememberd just now its still in my cupboard and i have a new laptop
Hello to make this very short i have an 2 week old acer computer which suddenly showed blue screen of death when i did the start-up boot. The BOSD says: BAD SYSTEM CONFIG INFO What i've tried to fix it:
The custom Windows Reparing tool - fails and keep looping like its about to boot but its just stuck and not getting anywhere.
Getting into safe mode with f8, wont work though and just shows BOSD into fail booting.
Recovery tool for acer which is alt f4 i believe. - Same thing occurs again and the computer shows BOSD and keep fail-loop booting afterwards.
Any clue how i get past the acer boot up screen and actually get into safemode so i can restore the system, scan (pretty sure no viruses) or a 3rd option which can solve the problem or enlighten me more about what happening?
Backstory: Recently (2 weeks ago ish) i brought an acer computer because my old computer did have several problems (took 1 year and a half to get it refunded with 3 "repairs" lasting 4 months in total so im very sad the new computer is having similar problems so i might have to go through the reparing progress once again. Therefore i will be greatful if anyone can help me out :) - Mads
Windows 10
FRITZ!Box 6490 Cable
When connecting an older PC to the network
Yes
N/A
Earlier this year I brought an old(ish) PC from my parents house to my new home, primarily so I have a desktop pc for university stuff. We have a 100 Mbit/s connection which before all of this started worked without any issues. Besides the PC we have a laptop, two mobile phones and a television connected to the network via W-Lan.
Right after I connected the PC to the network (via cable) the connection started to drop every other minute for about 30 seconds up to a minute. Sometimes it is much more frequent, to the point where it is practically a complete connection loss, sometimes it is less frequent. When the connection is there the speed still seems to be much slower than it should be, especially for downloads (which are also a pain because they get disrupted a lot). This problem is not isolated to the old PC, but occurs for the whole network simultaniously. While this is happening the network symbol from windows usually doesn't register it as a disconnection and thinks the connection is still up.
Persistent issue.
Since I don't have the expertise to make educated guesses to what this might cause it I only tried some google solutions so far.
I read that routers have a finite amount of space for solving problems with the connection and that when this space is filled up (for example by an old computer having lots of problems) problems like this could happen. It was recommended to reset the router to factory settings, which resolved the problem for 1-2 days until it came back again.
Scans with Malwarebytes, Avira and Spybot didn't resolve the problem either.
Just to be sure I completely wiped the pc and did a fresh install of windows 10 while also resetting the router again. This helped for almost a week, then the problem came back and further router resets solve it only for a day or two again.
The timing of this makes me think that it has to be the old PC causing this, but since it is still a problem after a fresh install I can only guess that it is either something with the hardware of the PC, or it was some kind of malware that infested the other devices on the network.
Again, this is not an area I have much knowledge of, so I have no clue if my suspicions have merit or how to find out what is causing this/ find a solution, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if I need to provide more information/logs of something.
Windows 10
Asus Rog GL551VW, 8GB Ram, GEFORCE 960M streaming to Roku 3
N/A
Loud white pulsing static is played through TV speakers when I cast to my Roku.
3 weeks ago trying to stream a copy of Boss Baby. Happens with most torrents.
Yes
N/A
Yes
Cast device to Roku 3 through Windows media player or cast screen to Roku 3 and open VLC to play.
I tried a few google solutions but some seemed shady asking me to download programs to repair corrupted files. Tried updating audio drivers as well.
My primary machine is a modified Dell XPS8900. It came with a standard SATA hard drive, but I upgraded it with a PCI M.2 expansion slot and a Samsung 950 Pro SSD as my primary boot/OS drive.
I'm running Windows 10, and it flies, it's a great machine. I have one minor annoyance. I still have the hard drive installed as a tertiary backup (games and apps live on a Mushkin 1TB SATA SSD). Whenever Windows updates it changes some setting in the BIOS that causes the machine to look at the physical HD as a boot drive, and locks up the boot. I can resolve by going into the BIOS settings and unchecking the HD as a bootable option, but with the frequency of Windows updates that's becoming a pain in the ass.
Any tips? Format the HD as a last resort? Can I just nuke the MBR on it and it won't be seen? I can reboot a hundred times in a row without a Windows update and everything will be fine, but after an update the problem re-occurs.
Any input would be greatly appreciated, I've done some Google due diligence but can't seem to find a solution.
Thanks!
I recently noticed my HDD being a bit loud so after investigating I noticed I used up all my ram (8g) and pagefile was being used that to my suprize was on my HDD.
Is this where normal windows puts it? http://ift.tt/2stMEhQ
I'll start with my spec list and then I'll explain my problem.
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad Core Processor
ASUS MAXIUM VIII Hero Motherboard
Samsung 850 Series EVO 250 GB SSD
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB drive
Crucial 16 GB DDR4 memory
Geforce GTX 1060 Founder's Edition graphics card
EVGA 500W Power supply
NZXT S340 Blue tower
My CPU is reaching such high loads while playing just about any game and using OBS - I've tried every combination of OBS settings imaginable, using all three encoder types and changing presets/bitrates, and nothing works. In game, I try the lowest possible settings and it still won't work. I get horrible in game FPS drops that make just about anything absolutely unplayable.
On this rig, it seems like something isn't right here if i can't even stream Overwatch, Titanfall 2 or Lawbreakers at 720p30.
My CPU was reaching dangerously high temps at one point using the Intel stock CPU fan, and I recently installed a nice Noctua fan to fix that problem. Even with the new CPU fan installed, I'm having these problems.
My friend who knows a bit about computers mentioned that my power supply might be inadequate for my system. Would this cause the problems I am having? Or maybe my RAM is a cheap brand that isn't working with my mobo?
I'm really at a loss here and it's incredibly frustrating. I'm looking at upgrading to a Threadripper when that drops, or building a second dedicated streaming PC, just to solve these problems. I have a gut feeling, however, that my rig should be performing better than this and I can't figure out why.
If anyone has an idea, help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
edit - in most cases, i can record without trouble or in game FPS drops. As soon as I switch to streaming to Twitch, however, the game becomes unplayable.
Hi there,
I recently upgraded from a NVidia GTX 660 2GB to an ASUS Dual Radeon RX 460 2GB and, it seems to be performing a lot worse than my GTX 660, as I can barely run GTA V at 900p @ low at a stable 30!
I had the Global Wattman open while playing GTA V and for some reason it seems the RX 460 wasn't being utilized at all, as the activity stayed at 20%, which is the same as when I'm not playing any games.
My specs are:
Athlon x4 860k
RX 460 (duh)
10GB RAM
4HDDs totalling around 5TB or so
Windows 10 Pro x64
Yes, I did remove everything relating to NVidia and I made sure the RX 460 is my "primary display" driver in Windows.
if i play music i only hear the bass.. its a USB headphone..
Hi, I am using a AMD Radeon R9 200 Series and previously I would normally start up my computer with no problems, but yesterday it started up normally until it reached the windows login page, it won't display anything beyond that. I tried using my CPU and had no problems. Help Please
DISCLAIMER: I am a bit of a noob in this area, so please bare with me and be prepared for questions that may seem obvious to answer... Thanks!
So a couple of days ago I noticed something odd with my PC when I came back from being away from keyboard and my monitor was blank with one line of text:
"Error 1962: No operating system found. Boot sequence will automatically repeat."
It stayed like this for I while, so I pressed the power button and turned it back on. It was fine.
Until later on I went idle for a wee bit and the same thing happened. I knew something was up to I turned it back on in the same way I did before, then left it to see if it would turn off, and sure enough it did.
I got this: http://ift.tt/2sofrcu
So, I updated windows, ran a virus scan, updated a load of drivers, ran "/scf scannow" in powershell, and none of these things seemed to have worked.
My PC is completely usable so long as I'm interacting with it, but if I go idle it crashes.
I'm at a loss here so I could really use some advice!
Facebook started forcing me to use my real name and now it's asking for my ID, I thought they stopped doing this. I really don't want to use my real name on facebook, for personal reasons. I've had this name for years and they've never had a problem with it until now. It is just asking for my ID, it's not even letting me change the name, so I am completely locked out of my account. I wasn't sure where to post this, The facebook subreddit makes me put a flair but then gives me an error when I try to put one, and facebookhelp is completely dead.
Windows 7
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (4GB VRam), Intel Core i5-3570K @ 3.40GHz, 16GB Ram, unsure about power supply and motherboard, but they're enough to support the system at full load
My computer has had issues involving crashing for nearly two years. It used to work flawlessly with all applications, though now it has constantly inconsistent issues that randomly resolve themselves, then come back. From blue screen restarts, to simply crashing games, to my browser crashing at least once a day. I cannot find out what's wrong with my computer, because the problems are never consistent, so I never know what to do, how to approach it, or anything of a similar sort.
In case this can help, my graphics card, since installation, has never wanted to spin its' fans on its' own. I've had to use MSI afterburner in order for the fans to spin fast enough to prevent the card from overheating, and blue screen crashing my computer.
These issues first popped up after the installation of my graphics card nearly two years ago. (The computer also was knocked over at that time, though I'm uncertain if that matters.)
Yes
N/A
No
I don't know what is causing the specific issues, so I cannot say.
All I know is I've tried virus programs, all which have found nothing, a few registry-based edits, which did nothing, I've even checked the connections, and updated all software within my computer itself.
Just started playing after installing the newest nvidia GeForce drivers and after about 30 minutes of playing the game froze and went into the bsod.
It's been stuck on 20% for 30+ minutes.
What should I do? I've had this pc built for about 8 months and this is the first and only error I've ever gotten... and it came right after installing those new nvidia drivers.
Should I leave it even though it appears as though it's stuck on 20%?
Or should I shut it off and back on to try and restore an earlier version?
My grandparents are not very tech savy, and yesterday they got attacked by a "your PC is infected! Pay us to fix your computer!" Type scam. They paid $250 to OZEMIONIC and their computer is unusable. Im going over to their place tomorrow to see what I can do. They are running Windows 10. I dont know much more. Is there anything I should do or know before I troubleshoot?
Hello, first some stats:
Computer: Samsung Laptops series 5, NP (can't get exact info rn) Security software: Eset Smart Security, cleaned every month with Mbam, every other week with CCleaner
Yesterday I planned to log in to one of MMORPG I'm playing, so decided to restart my computer to clear RAM and unnecessary processes leftover after my regular work.
Attempted reboot from start menu, restart. It took over 20 minutes of sitting on black screen, then rebooted again and hit stuck on "Repairing disk, Volume (hex identifier) 100%"
Hour later it started storming, so ended up turning off computer and going to sleep.
Today attempted to get into safe mode, with no luck. It either tries to run chkdsk and gets stuck on the second volume (while "SystemPartition goes through 100%"), or on "Diagnosing your PC", or "Preparing Automatic Repair".
After over an hour of sitting on chkdsk, it got stuck on black screen and everything but fan stopped working. After reboot to try to get into Safe Mode again it started booting system, then threw BSOD with "Bad System Config" as explanation,then rebooted itself back into Diagnosing Loop.
Sometimes on boot can hear a static pop, possibly from the speakers, although never experienced it before on this laptop.
Suspected PSU, so ran from battery but no luck.
Additionally, I ran Smart scan and lifediag on drive in last few days (was checking external/network drive for errors, so checked mine as well) and everything was perfect, with no health issues a D temperature not going past 41*C.
Computer didn't seem any slower and no software was installed in last few days. I had occasional audio drivers crashes in last month, but Samsung Update Agent took care of that.
Currently it is running diagnostic, no USB devices plugged in, no Ethernet, just AC. It doesn't seem to make any progress though.
If ya'll could help me figure out what to do, and at least restore my data so I can back up recent work, it would be amazing.
Have an i7-6700k and Z170-A Asus motherboard. Using Windows 10 Pro
I have had my voltage at 1.35 @4.5ghz for about a month and a half. All I did was lower it from 1.35 > 1.30 and tried to boot into Windows, I was met with what I now know as the Blue screen of death
I can still get into the BIOS for about 5 seconds before it freezes, but I can see the voltage is set at 1.08 (!) I know I didn't mistakenly lower the value by 50 or anything, and I used the minus key to change it by .05. When saving your settings it shows what changes were made, and that was the only one
Any help would be fantastic.
Windows 10
CPU: Intel Core i5 3450 @ 3.10GHz
RAM: 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz
Motherboard: Gigabyte H77-D3H-MVP
GPU: 2047MB ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
N/A
Geforce experience prompted a new driver 386.76 is available, downloaded via Geforce experience, attempted custom installation, message "installation failed"
Today
Yes
N/A
Yes
Custom installation in Geforce experience
Deleted C:\NVIDIA folder.
I accidentally deleted 5 videos that are important for a personal project. They were on a 64 GB micro SD card plugged into my GoPro.
By using TeskDisk I was able to recover deleted files from the micro SD card. This is what the resulting folder looks like:
When I saw this I thought it looks promising. The photos you see appear to be frames from the videos I am looking to recover. Furthermore, the length of the .mov files correlates to the missing clips, yet the clips will not run with VLC media player and I am not sure what else to try. Suggestions or support would be greatly appreciated.
Here's the scenario... I have suddenlink with up to 100mbps down/25mbps up. When I run a Wi-Fi ookla speed test I get 99.03 down and 21.5 up with a 9ms ping. In theory, this looks great.
When I try to stream a movie or music... Its choppy at best but buffers a lot too. This only happens for. 7:30pm until 9pm-ish mostly. When it gets hung up, I immediately test... Same results.
Are they throttling bandwidth somehow while still showing high speeds so I can't call and tell them they suck?
Here is a pcpartpicker link to the build: http://ift.tt/2snbQLI
TL;DR at the bottom
My brother's PC just started having this issue in the past 1-2 months. For some reason, after about 5-10 minutes of the computer being turned on, the keyboard stops working although it still seems to be powered because the LEDs still work. Even when completely idle, or when using the computer. He has replaced his keyboard (a corsair k70 rgb) and the problem persists. In order to "fix" the problem, it has to be unplugged and put back in, until it happens again 5-10 minutes later. Sometimes, the keyboard doesn't even work when the PC is powered on until it is unplugged and put back in.
I've tried looking up the problem and found some help on Tom's Hardware with a user saying it is a "current related issue", however, I don't think that's the case because the mouse and every other device (HDD, SSD, headphones, etc) are perfectly fine. But, it happens in every single usb port on the computer, front and back. The only solution I can think of is giving up and buying a USB PCIe expansion slot.
TL;DR: Keyboard stops working (but LEDs still work) after 5-10 minutes requiring it to be power cycled, but the mouse and everything else is fine. Still happens with different keyboards. Happens in every usb slot.
Thanks for any and all help. If any more info is needed, please let me know.
Windows 10
Verizon fios
N/A
2 days ago
Yes
N/A
my network is going really slow i need help on getting back to normal or faster speed.
I keep refreshing and shit nothing.
i keep refreshing it and still no solution. I even go closer to the modem still nothing.
MoBo: EVGA Z270 FTW K
M.2: Crucial MX300 2280SS
I am building a PC and have not installed windows anywhere, and I don't see the M.2 drive in the boot list. I am sure that I have the drive inserted all the way, and have checked. The slot is type M, and so is the drive, so that shouldn't be the issue. I think I have all the power cables plugged in. I tried following my mobo manual's instructions for enabling it, but it keeps calling things differently than what reads on the screen. But I think I managed to get the slot enabled.
Not sure what else to do. Any ideas?
Also, I cant get the PC to ask for a bootable drive...it just keeps rebooting back to BIOS when I save and exit.
N/A
N/A
Yes
N/A
N/A
I have an MSI board. Please help.
So I got BSOD and the BlueScreenView was pointing to:
ntoskrnl.exe
Which from what I could see doesn't help much. Related to drivers.
I ran verifier.exe against ntoskrnl.exe again and again trying to find out which part it was.
// tests
Made sure all mobo drivers were up to date.
All crashed anyway.
I ran chckdsk and sfc scannow.
I ran memtest
Everything there came back good. (PC is only 3 months old)
I reset BIOS to default. No change.
Finally I gave up and formatted and reinstalled Windows. Ran verifier.exe between every driver install. Nothing.
// end tests
The last thing I did was install "Logitech Gaming Software." Now if I run verifier against ntoskrnl.exe, it will BSOD when Logitech Gaming Software is running.
If I turn Logitech Gaming Software off from starting at boot, and don't open it. No issue when running verifier.exe
So I have 2 Logitech products. G403 Wireless and G910.. I could survive without the software, but its also beneficial as well. So I guess I'm kind of in a jam here.
What the title says. Using latest update of Windows 10 with XBONE controller over Bluetooth.
So I use a PM951 Samsung SSD with a 512gb capacity.
I was planning to install Linux on it to dual boot however it seems like the limit of shrinking the partition is only 25gb despite having a lot more space.
I assume that there are unmovable system files placed there so I guess I have to use a third party solution.
I downloaded AOMEI partition assistant and it seems like it can resize partitions however it wants as long as I have the space.
If I do this will this corrupt the ssd? I am not sure which kind of data is stored on the 25gb mark but if it were to be system files, will the resize of the partitioning corrupt my boot?
Its called the Chromecast Audio which is confusing, can it play video like netflix and can i cast video to it.
Windows 10
This is my full build, it has peripherals but ignore those I guess.
When using the shutdown menu option or the power button Windows sometimes hangs on shutdown. It says shutting down with the loading circle but that is frozen. All my fans spin up to max speed and the only way to turn it off is a hard shutdown.
About a week ago
Yes
N/A
No
Shutdown PC
Sometimes it hangs sometimes it shutsdown.
/sfc scannow
Did all Windows updates
Semi-recently I upgraded my PC by buying: a refurbished Giggabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A motherboard; a ASUS ROG Radeon RX 470 with 4GBs video ram; and a EVGA 600 B1 600w PSU. Since the upgrade, I have been having somewhat random computer crashes. I'm kind of certain it is related to my graphics card however.
When I am playing the following games; GMod, CS:GO, TF2, Heros of the Storm, Sanctum 2, Portal 2, Faster Than Light, Tabletop Simulator and probably others I can not recall: I crash. While these games; Awesomenauts, Overwatch, Sanctum 2, Super Meat Boy, Minecraft, Sniper Elite v2, Robocraft, Rocket Leuege, Stronghold Crusader HD, Civ 5, From the Depths and also probably others I've forgotten: I do not crash. Some of these games, Overwatch, have way more hours in them than the ones that have reliably caused crashing.
The reason I specify inconsistent crashing is for multiple reasons. 1) The majority of crashes seem to be at random times. Sometimes a level will crash multiple times, sometimes the same level will not cash at all. 2) Some games it takes place every time a specific event happens. (GMod crashes whenever water particles are played.) 3) Will rotate through games. HotS can be played for weeks at a time with no crashing, then crash during every load. The crashes themselves are pretty inconsistent as well.
In all of the crashes, the screen goes black. In the most often crash, the audio of background tasks will be fine however the foreground task will be stuck on the last played sound. People in teamspeak will sometimes be able to hear me speak even after the crash. Using teamviewer, I have tried to connect to my computer during one of these crashes but teamviewer errors out when I do. The rarest crash actually causes my computer to full turn off and instantly POST again.
I've tried almost every released driver for my graphics card, as I bought the card at release. I even tried contacting ASUS support and using some of the drivers they recommended. I tried using just dedicated graphics and had no crashing. I monitored heat and the hottest the computer has gotten is 73c. I tried fully wiping my hard drive, including windows 10. I wondered if it was PSU, but my old psu was 300 watts lower, and all I /really/ upgraded was my GPU in terms of wats. I checked event viewer and the only error leading up to it (or rather after it) is kernel throwing unexpected shutdown. Directx Diagnostic claims that "everything is working." At this point, I'm semi-certain it is a hardware issue, but before sending my card to the shop wanted to get some other input.
I dont know what to do, thanks. acer f5 571 windows 10
So I have a HP desktop and after having a power outage a week ago, I've been having wifi issues ever since. The PC will rearly find my networks (2.4 & 5ghz), it only gives internet on the 2.4ghz, the speed is extremely slow. I did a system restore to a couple days and it worked, for a while until it was giving me issues again.
So far I have updated, disabled drivers, purchased a power line adapter which did work, but I wasn't getting the speeds I was used too. Bought a ASUS USB AC wifi adapter but so far, it's acting the same way as the wireless card built in... I just did a factory reset on my router which didn't do anything. Every other device in the home works fine, gets great speed, it's just the desktop..
My router is the ASUS RT-68U, PC is running Windows 10.
Win7 keeps crashing on windows startup. As title states auto restore and restore points have failed. I'm trying to get win7 back on without losing User profiles and program data. Thoughts?
I am running an Acer V3-572 laptop which uses Intel HD 4400 graphics. I accidentally disabled that within my bios and upon restart now have no video out out o the screen, through HDMI, or VGA. The first thing I thought was to reset the CMOS battery. So after tearing the while laptop apart, the o my battery looking thing I found was sauldered on both + and - ends, thus no way to disconnect it.
Does anyone know of a way to reset my bios or enable my integrated graphics?
Thanks!
Hey guys I deleted my itunes backup for my phone and I can't seem to get it back. Is there any way to do so?
I got a new phone and I wanted to restore it. I think my recycle bin may be cleared too. I never had enough space to backup my phone on iCloud. Any suggestions???
I have a headset and every time I try to use it, the audio is EXTREMELY quiet, I was wondering if there was any way to boost the volume of the audio from 100% to around 8000% or 10000%, as well as the microphone audio.
So, I've had this problem for months. When I play any video game or, recently, at random times, one of the fans of my GPU makes a really loud and obnoxious clicking/rattling sound.
After removing all the dust and looking at the fan, this is what I've noticed:
The fan does not seem to spin as fast as the other fans.
When I turn off the PC, that fan stops MUCH quicker than the other GPU fan or my CPU fan.
There are no wires touching the fan or the entirety of the GPU itself.
The plastic of the casing does not seem to be vibrating or rattling.
When I manually make the fan speed above 45%, the rattling starts.
What can I do?
Thanks.
Edit:
From the Live Chat on the right, someone said it's likely the ball bearing of the fan, which makes sense. So far this is my best bet. If anyone has any other ideas that would be appreciated too, thanks.
Every time I try to play online games (CS:GO, LoL, Overwatch, Rust, etc) My ping bounces between 50ish (the "normal" ping) and upwards of ~5000 depending on the game. My roommate is on the same wifi so i dont think its an internet issue but rather something wrong with my laptop. When i open task manager and look at network, nothing is going on.
Here are 3 Speedtest.net tests taken within 5ish minutes of each other: http://ift.tt/2tr4uGf http://ift.tt/2up3HCT http://ift.tt/2trJ3Vo
Here is a speed test with my roommate's laptop http://ift.tt/2up7zUw http://ift.tt/2trF631
Speedtests usually dont show anything because it only happens when in game. I don't Know if i've given enough info but please let me know if you guys need to know anything else.
Hello all
My antivirus picked up an infected file called 'lsass.exe [744]' in my system32 folder. Told the antivirus to fix it, it told me to restart but upon restarting the problem remained, the antivirus telling me it failed to remove the file.
I googled it and found that there's a fake version that replaces the lowercase L with an uppercase i, but judging from the lack of any such file in the alphabetical order sorting, it isn't that.
After a few retries and a full scan (rather than quick scan, which is what detected it), with the antivirus telling me to restart each time and me complying, the scans began to find no issue. I could not find any file called 'lsass.exe [744]', only 'lsass.exe' and another version with a number before the .exe.
When I scan each of these, no issues are found, so it seems that I should be in the clear. However, the antivirus still insists it failed to remove the infected file during the full scan.
What should I do here? Am I in the clear or is this possible infection still around somewhere and my antivirus can't pick it up?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: did another scan. It's back. Now it's called 'lsass.exe [748]'. I don't know what to do now.
‘Tis the season for BBQs, family road trips, and days by the beach or pool. No matter how you spend your summer days, Google Play can be a part of it.
Starting today, you’ll be able to find your favorite movies, apps, games, music, TV and books at big savings. The sale runs until July 6 for apps, games, books and music, and until July 13 for movies and TV in select markets.
Rent a movie from our catalogue for only $0.99—it’s cheaper than cooling down with an ice cream cone—or watch your favorite TV show at half price. Some of the biggest hits of the summer are Saban's Power Rangers, CHiPs, Get Out and The LEGO® Batman Movie.
“I Spy” won’t last the whole car ride, so check out our discounts of up to 80 percent for premium games. A few of our favorites are FINAL FANTASY TACTICS, Star Wars: KOTOR, Call of Duty: Black Ops Zombies, Reigns, Hitman Sniper and Lara Croft GO.
Grab a beach chair and read some of the best-selling books of the year, from 50-80 percent off. There’s a wide variety of books to choose from, like thriller “The Freedom Broker,” romance novel “My Perfect Mistake” or sci-fi fantasy “Hellfire.”
While you’re taking care of the guests, Google Play Music will play all the right songs at the right time. This summer, you can get a Google Play Music subscription free for four months.
If you’re six months late on your New Year’s resolution, take advantage of your time off this summer. Put your brain to use, learn a new language, start running, read the news every day! And do it on the cheap with a 50 percent discount for a new, one-year subscription for the services mentioned above and more.
As you take the time to relax, go vacation, and get outside, visit Google Play to find and share more fun entertaining moments with your friends and family.
The Data Journalism Handbook, published in 2011, is considered the guidebook for telling stories with data. To ensure that journalists are up to speed on the latest data journalism practices, the Google News Lab is partnering with the the European Journalism Centre to launch a new version of the Data Journalism Handbook, which will be published in four languages next year.
The original handbook was born at a 48-hour workshop at MozFest 2011 in London, and became an international, collaborative effort involving dozens of data journalism's leading advocates and best practitioners.
Over the past three years, the handbook has been digitally downloaded 150,000 times, and almost a million people have accessed the online version. But the world is changing, and so are the ways we use data to tell news stories. So this project is one of a series of initiatives by the data team at the Google News Lab to support data journalists and help them understand how to best incorporate technology into their work—you can find out more on our site. We’re also proud to partner with the European Journalism Centre on their mission to connect journalists with new ideas through initiatives like the News Impact Summits and the News Impact Academy.
On July 31, we will open a call for contributions. Later this year, around 50 authors and experts will join a Handbook Hack to create and edit content for the new edition. And you won’t have to wait long to start reading the new chapters: we’ll make them available online as they are completed. Check out the official site for the latest updates.
Today, we’re announcing a strategic partnership with Nutanix to help remove friction from hybrid cloud deployments for enterprises. We often hear from our customers that they’re looking for solutions to deploy workloads on premises and in the public cloud.
Benefits of a hybrid cloud approach include the ability to run applications and services, either as connected or disconnected, across clouds. Many customers are adopting hybrid cloud strategies so that their developer teams can release software quickly and target the best cloud environment for their application. However, applications that span both infrastructures can introduce challenges. Examples include difficulty migrating workloads such as dev-testing that need portability and managing across different virtualization and infrastructure environments.
Instead of taking a single approach to these challenges, we prefer to collaborate with partners and meet customers where they are. We're working with Nutanix on several initiatives, including:
Easing hybrid operations by automating provisioning and lifecycle management of applications across Nutanix and Google Cloud Platform (GCP) using the Nutanix Calm solution. This provides a single control plane to enable workload management across a hybrid cloud environment.
Bringing Nutanix Xi Cloud Services to GCP. This new hybrid cloud offering will let enterprise customers leverage services such as Disaster Recovery to effortlessly extend their on-premise datacenter environments into the cloud.
Enabling Nutanix Enterprise Cloud OS support for hybrid Kubernetes environments running Google Container Engine in the cloud and a Kubernetes cluster on Nutanix on-premises. Through this, customers will be able to deploy portable application blueprints that target both an on-premises Nutanix footprint as well as GCP.
In addition, we’re also collaborating on IoT edge computing use-cases. For example, customers training TensorFlow machine learning models in the cloud can run them on the edge on Nutanix and analyze the processed data on GCP.
We’re excited about this partnership as it addresses some of the key challenges faced by enterprises running hybrid clouds. Both Google and Nutanix are looking forward to making our products work together and to the experience we'll deliver together for our customers.
It’s become increasingly important for journalists to deepen their digital skills for reporting, but finding dedicated time to invest in learning can be a challenge.
To address that challenge, the News Lab has launched a series of advanced online learning programs focused on helping journalists quickly develop skills across key disciplines in digital journalism—on their own time. We’ve worked with Knight Center for Journalism in the Americas, Poynter Institute for Media Studies and Journalism and Media Studies Centre at The University of Hong Kong to develop this content, focused on serving multiple languages, regions, and topics. We're offering this content as an evolution of the lessons currently offered on on our site.
We have partnered with the Knight Center for Journalism in the Americas to offer advanced online learning programs in both Spanish and Portuguese. The programs will include courses on verification, fact-checking, and immersive storytelling (e.g. VR, 360). Students who complete the required coursework can receive a certification from the Knight Center. The first course will be offered in Portuguese and will focus on fact-checking digital content.
In collaboration with the Knight Foundation, the American Press Institute, and the Poynter Institute for Media Studies, we will be supporting e-learning webinars, self-paced courses, and monthly training workshop opportunities on Poynter’s NewsU training platform. The content will include tutorials on digital tools like DocumentCloud and lessons on Google’s tools for journalists like Maps and Fusion Tables. We hope to offer journalists a holistic view of how these tools could work together in a real news environment.
And in May, the Journalism and Media Studies Centre at the University of Hong Kong relaunched its five-week MOOC, Data Journalism Fundamentals, with additional language support. Produced in partnership with Google News Lab and top news organizations in Asia, the MOOC targets students and journalists of all levels of experience. Students can now take the course in English, Simplified and Traditional Chinese, Korean, and Hindi. Case studies from newsrooms in Asia and data stories by leading international media organizations are also featured. More than 6000 students have participated in the original MOOC since it launched last year, and enrollment is expected to re-open in the fall with additional languages and content.
Students can earn a free certificate for the course through Hong Kong University by completing all required assignments. Students who complete the project will also get the chance to showcase their work on the JMSC website as well as receive expert critique by the instructors.
For more information about our training offerings and to sign up for these programs, visit http://ift.tt/2rUa2Wa. We plan to bring more trainings of this type in the coming year, so let us know in the comments or email us at newslabsupport@google.com with suggestions for other topics and formats.Twenty years ago today, Harry Potter began his journey from a closet on Privet Drive to the castle at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, and—Alohomora!—he unlocked the imaginations of Muggles everywhere.
Conjured up by author J.K. Rowling, "Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone" (called "Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone" in the U.S.) has sold more than 450 million copies in 79 languages since its initial publication on June 26, 1997. The worldwide pop-culture phenomenon grew to include six more Harry Potter books, a few literary spinoffs, a movie franchise, and a hit two-part play.
To celebrate this anniversary, Google Earth’s storytelling platform, Voyager, takes you on a global tour (no portkey needed) of real-world places inspired from and by the Harry Potter universe. As fans might expect, the journey begins at Platform 9 ¾ at London’s King’s Cross. Other stops include the London market that stands in for Diagon Alley in the films, the Edinburgh cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote, and the Orlando amusement park where Muggles can buy a wand, ride a Hippogriff and drink some butterbeer.
Grab your broomstick and take flight with Google Earth’s Voyager.I got a virus on my computer. I spent the entire day cleaning this shit up, deleting every suspicious folder and program I could find. Finally, I think there's only one thing left. But I can't get rid of it.
From what I've googled, it seems to be a pretty common virus. Basically, it keeps changing my homepage to some searching website. And everytime I fix it, after a while a cmd window will run, and the problem arises again.
There's a process constantly running called atiedxx.exe, which seems to be the cause, according to google. But I can't get rid of it. When I try to terminate it using task manager I get the error access denied.
I also have some wierd folders that I also can't delete, called AppxadsulP.
I also tried following this guide but I can't install any Malwarebytes software for some reason, I keep getting an error.
My main concern at the moment is that my hard drive has two partitions. One for the OS (250Gb) and one for storage (750Gb). I don't mind formating the OS part. But I'm afraid that this virus has infected the other partition as well...
What can I do?
Edit: Besides AppxadsulP, there's also Nettrans.
As the title says, we're setting up a new office. There are 5 rooms, and each one of them needs a computer. Each computer would run 1 medical application and occasionally use a web browser. In general, the computer workload is extremely small. Plus, on average 2 of the 5 computers are being used simultaneously (very rarely more than 3).
Is it possible to use 1 server to act on behalf of 5 individual physical computers? At such a small scale (5 machines) - is that even financially logical to set up?
Any help is much appreciated. If such a setup is feasible, I would love to know some of the basics of how it might work.
Essentially I had to start a new web server hosted in a server farm running Windows 2012 R2. I used backups of multiple websites and one is up and running fine but the other is showing the error, "The page cannot be displayed because an internal server error has occurred."
I'm using IIS to host and the website is through a WordPress installation. Also using Office 365 for our email/DNS configuration/name server. Please let me know any advice you have or if I need to include more information, thank you!
There's a strange network that pops up only on my computer, and sometimes tries to connect to it; Also the wifi speed on my computer fluctuates a lot during the day while all other devices have steady internet. Could this be a virus?
A few days ago my viewsonic xg2401 144hz monitor (connected to a gigabyte r9 390 video card) began to black out and freeze my computer.
I tried updating gfx card drivers, windows10 updates to no avail--the monitor will turn black when ever I try to run a program or game.
Thinking it was a deeper rooted registry error I reinstalled windows, wiping my SSD clean completely, starting fresh.
The monitor issue still persists. Is my monitor broke or has my graphics card died? How can I determine what is at fault here?
I am currently running Windows 10 version 1703. For a while, I've been having an issue where my primary monitor will go slightly brighter, most noticeable when I am watching a fullscreen video. It will stay like this until I do something: Changing the volume, opening up the start menu, or moving a window on or off that monitor will cause the brightness to go back down, only to go back up in a few seconds.
I can not figure out what is causing this to happen, and it only happens on my primary monitor. I'm pretty sure that this issue has persisted through a reinstall (Don't exactly remember), so I'm assuming it has to do with a program I have running. My only guesses were Rainmeter, SunsetScreen, and ShareX, but closing them did not fix the issue. I also tried closing Skype, Steam, GoG, Razer Synapse, Malwarebytes, and Corsair CUE which did not help. I have also tried to uninstall (using DDU) and reinstall my graphics drivers, but that did not help. I have no idea what is causing this and it is starting to be annoying. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this?
Howdy, friends! I currently have an analog microphone here which is connected via the 3.5mm mic in motherboard jack on the back of my PC (Windows 10). When I use it, however, the volume is way too low even with the mic volume set to max. When I turn up the mic boost setting to high, it's still fairly low plus it adds a lot of white noise. Is this due to it being an analog mic? Do I need some sort of amp to boost the volume or is there some other setting I'm missing which would prevent me from needing to purchase anything additional for my setup? (preferred) I've messed with the Realtek HD audio manager settings and even tried the front mic in port on my desktop to no avail. Your help is appreciated!
Over a month ago now I started having an issue where my PC would reboot itself without warning. There would be no Bluescreen or error logs in the windows event viewer. My first thought was that it was the power supply, so i replaced that, and decided to use the opportunity to do an upgrade as well. I ended up replacing the psu, motherboard, cpu, cpu cooler and case. The only things i am using from before the upgrade were the GPU and SSD. Since then I have had the issue again. After searching around online and asking a few people on the internet I came to the conclusion that my new PSU is faulty, so i returned it and got another a different one. Again, i had the issue, so i switched out the SSD for an old HDD I had to see if that was the problem but it wasn't. Did the same with the GPU, it worked fine for a few hours last night, but today I have had the issue again.
I have used the PC in a couple of different locations around the house, with a couple of different power cables. Both using an extension and not using one etc.
Currently my pc is entirely new components from when the problem started, with a completely fresh install of windows and all drivers. It still reboots itself without warning, and doesn't leave any logs in event viewer relevant to the issue, and doens't bluescreen even with "auto restart" disabled.
I am completely baffled and have no idea what could be causing the issue. Without any error logs i can't piunpoint the issue, and i don't understand how the issue can still exist when I have changed out everything.
Hi /r/techsupport - hoping someone in here might be able to give me some insight. I was married last month and had the best day of my life. I received a phone call from the president of the photography company last night and she told me that while "uploading the photos from a SeaGate hard drive to their servers, the photographer accidentally knocked over the hard drive which may have caused a head crash".
I'm told that the hard drive has been sent away to a company called Drive Savers to see if they can recover any of the photos. My wife and I are devastated at this news. We were with the photographer the entire day and had a lot of really intimate moments that we may never see again.
Does anyone in here have any knowledge of a situation like this where this information can be recovered? I've been researching on my own and it seems to be about 50-50 on whether there is any hope.
Thanks in advance for any insight. I'm told I won't know more until 2 weeks from now :/
We already have it functional for the constant command prompt popups some are experiencing with the latest microsoft updates.
What we'd like from you is a problem you see all the time on the subreddit along with a list of key words you believe automoderator can use to reliably detect the issue in someone's post. If a page exists on the wiki, we'd ideally link to it.
We will also be doing the same for posts that innocently break the rules (such as using URL shorteners, linking to porn/social media sites as examples and not spam) Currently they get manually approved by moderators.
Example keyword: "0x0000007B"
This basically has no false-positive potential although doesn't include people shortening it to "0x07B" or "0x7B" so we'd add those, too. We wouldn't add "0x0" or the term "Blue screen" because those are common and generic and would give lots of false positives.
‘Tis the season for BBQs, family road trips, and days by the beach or pool. No matter how you spend your summer days, Google Play can be a part of it.
Starting today, you’ll be able to find your favorite movies, apps, games, music, TV and books at big savings. The sale runs until July 6 for apps, games, books and music, and until July 13 for movies and TV in select markets.
Rent a movie from our catalogue for only $0.99—it’s cheaper than cooling down with an ice cream cone—or watch your favorite TV show at half price. Some of the biggest hits of the summer are Saban's Power Rangers, CHiPs, Get Out and The LEGO® Batman Movie.
“I Spy” won’t last the whole car ride, so check out our discounts of up to 80 percent for premium games. A few of our favorites are FINAL FANTASY TACTICS, Star Wars: KOTOR, Call of Duty: Black Ops Zombies, Reigns, Hitman Sniper and Lara Croft GO.
Grab a beach chair and read some of the best-selling books of the year, from 50-80 percent off. There’s a wide variety of books to choose from, like thriller “The Freedom Broker,” romance novel “My Perfect Mistake” or sci-fi fantasy “Hellfire.”
While you’re taking care of the guests, Google Play Music will play all the right songs at the right time. This summer, you can get a Google Play Music subscription free for four months.
If you’re six months late on your New Year’s resolution, take advantage of your time off this summer. Put your brain to use, learn a new language, start running, read the news every day! And do it on the cheap with a 50 percent discount for a new, one-year subscription for the services mentioned above and more.
As you take the time to relax, go vacation, and get outside, visit Google Play to find and share more fun entertaining moments with your friends and family.
A lot of this information is second hand as I built this for my father's small business office. TL;DR at bottom.
Everything went fine during the build and setup. The only thing I noticed was that the system clock was way off, not just hours, but minutes as well. But whatever, I fixed it and everything was fine. Then a few days later I hear that it's randomly rebooting itself into the main bios screen. Once it gave a boot priority error, which I just fixed by setting the SSD to option #1, and the other two times it just randomly rebooted into the main BIOS screen. I thought maybe it was a CMOS battery issue and checked that as well as removing it and putting it back in to reset the BIOS. After that it booted fine and was working normally for a full day.
That was yesterday...but then today it rebooted itself again and after doing what I normally did, it freezes at the Windows login screen. I tried multiple times and it either didn't make it to windows, or froze at the screen.
I figured enough was enough and removed the SSD to try and get some data off it to move to a back up PC that the office could use in the mean time. After abandoning that, I hooked it back up and now the SSD isn't being recognized at all. It's not listed in the boot options and won't boot into windows.
I'm not sure what to RMA. Something is obviously wrong, but is it the SSD, the mobo, or the CPU? The SSD not being detected obviously makes me think that's screwed, but the other problems make me think motherboard. How do I determine what is wrong and what to return/replace? Everything worked fine 95% of the time since Saturday. 4 reboots into BIOS were the only issues until today when it finally just locked up completely. I was going to give it until the end of tomorrow to see if it would have another error, and it did.
So what do I do next? Sorry for the long post?
TL;DR
1: 4 random reboots into BIOS/Boot Priority Error that were easily fixed.
2: Worked fine since Saturday other than the above problem, today it rebooted itself and now locks on Windows screen or before.
3: Now the SSD isn't being recognized in the BIOS.
4: I'm told that there was a beep code error twice. Once 4 beeps, another said 5 beeps. I wasn't there to confirm.
| Type | Item |
|---|---|
| CPU | Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor |
| Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard |
| Memory | Crucial - 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory |
| Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive |
| Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon HD 6770 1GB Video Card |
| Case | Rosewill - FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case |
| Power Supply | EVGA - 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply |
| Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer |
| Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit |
Obviously this seems like just a DOA SSD, but would that explain the random reboots?
I've found this VPN on the Google Chrome store and I'm wondering if it is safe. I did a quick google search and found nothing wrong but would like to double check. Thanks in advance!
recently my iphone 5s has had issues updating although ive tried numerous times. recently the touch screen hasnt been working unless i turned off the screen and then back on again but even then it would only work for a few minutes, if that. yesterday it got even worse when it wouldn't let me use the screen at all, so i forced a reboot by holding down the power button and home button. at first it didn't work and i began to panic so i hooked it up to my laptop but even THAT didn't work so i tried rebooting it again and it worked good as new. this morning it began to get a little odd again so i went to try to update my phone again but the screen froze up like it did yesterday so i rebooted it. no luck. so i try again, no luck again. so i tried to update my phone on itunes instead, everything was going well until a message saying "Do you trust this laptop?" on my phone appeared. when i went to click "Trust" it froze up so i was unable to sync my phone and laptop. it has come down to the point where it wont even let me unlock my phone after rebooting because it has a password and even if i were able to unlock my phone the touch screen won't work after a few short seconds. please help me. taking my phone to the apple store is not an option.
On Monday, I sent my boyfriend a personal text message and he received it and replied, but at the same exact same time the text message was sent to him, it was also sent to a stranger in another state who was not in my contacts list.
I got a random text from this stranger asking shortly after sending my boyfriend this text asking, "Who is this?" I asked her, "Who is this?" She told me her name and I asked how she got my number and she replied, "I just got a text from you I don't have your # saved, Do I know you?" I responded, "I've never sent a text to this number, what did it say?" and she sent me the screenshot of me texting her the exact thing I sent to my boyfriend at the exact time I sent it to him. This duplicated text that was showing to be sent to her number never showed up on my phone.
My boyfriend and this stranger both have Androids and I have an Iphone7. Has this ever happened to anyone? Does anyone know what may have caused this problem? I'm kind of scared to send my friends texts now out of fear that the message may be sent to someone else at the same time without me knowing. I found this subreddit and thought it would be the appropriate place to ask this question because I can't seem to find anything on Google.
The Data Journalism Handbook, published in 2011, is considered the guidebook for telling stories with data. To ensure that journalists are up to speed on the latest data journalism practices, the Google News Lab is partnering with the the European Journalism Centre to launch a new version of the Data Journalism Handbook, which will be published in four languages next year.
The original handbook was born at a 48-hour workshop at MozFest 2011 in London, and became an international, collaborative effort involving dozens of data journalism's leading advocates and best practitioners.
Over the past three years, the handbook has been digitally downloaded 150,000 times, and almost a million people have accessed the online version. But the world is changing, and so are the ways we use data to tell news stories. So this project is one of a series of initiatives by the data team at the Google News Lab to support data journalists and help them understand how to best incorporate technology into their work—you can find out more on our site. We’re also proud to partner with the European Journalism Centre on their mission to connect journalists with new ideas through initiatives like the News Impact Summits and the News Impact Academy.
On July 31, we will open a call for contributions. Later this year, around 50 authors and experts will join a Handbook Hack to create and edit content for the new edition. And you won’t have to wait long to start reading the new chapters: we’ll make them available online as they are completed. Check out the official site for the latest updates.
recently my iphone 5s has had issues updating although ive tried numerous times. recently the touch screen hasnt been working unless i turned off the screen and then back on again but even then it would only work for a few minutes, if that. yesterday it got even worse when it wouldn't let me use the screen at all, so i forced a reboot by holding down the power button and home button. at first it didn't work and i began to panic so i hooked it up to my laptop but even THAT didn't work so i tried rebooting it again and it worked good as new. this morning it began to get a little odd again so i went to try to update my phone again but the screen froze up like it did yesterday so i rebooted it. no luck. so i try again, no luck again. so i tried to update my phone on itunes instead, everything was going well until a message saying "Do you trust this laptop?" on my phone appeared. when i went to click "Trust" it froze up so i was unable to sync my phone and laptop. it has come down to the point where it wont even let me unlock my phone after rebooting because it has a password and even if i were able to unlock my phone the touch screen won't work after a few short seconds. please help me. taking my phone to the apple store is not an option.
Hello everyone. I have several wifi routers and extenders in my house connected via cat6 cable. They all share the same ssid. Should they be on the same channel or different channels? What works best?
So I am building a new PC after 6 years with the same core. The current system has an SSD for boot and system files but have my user folders (music, videos docs etc) redirected to a large capacity spinner. I am on win10.
With the new system after I install it on a new SSD if I just install the Large HDD from the old system and redirect the folders will all my files just be where they should or will things overwrite or have permissions issues?
On CMD, I have a music folder that has A LOT of songs. When I use Dir, the list is too long and I can't see all of my files. What command/settings should I use to show all of my files in that Directory? I am on Windows 10 Version 1703 Toshiba Satellite Laptop.
The ASUS one costs roughly 80$ more than the acer one.
I turned on my computer the other day and it started for about 10 seconds and shut down. No visuals on my monitor and it does not power my keyboard. After shutting off the computer attempts to turn back on until the power cord/switch is turned off. I have done some research and most people are saying its the power supply/overheating issue. I do not have another power supply to test this. I do however have a multimeter and know how to use it. Any ideas? I'm at work so i may not respond immediately. Thanks
Hi all, this is the sound: http://ift.tt/2t531mY
I'm already going to buy a new one, but I maybe I can fix it for another computer. To me, it sounds like a physical error, I tried tools to check for sectors etc, but nothing worked.
It's not sounding like this every time. Just sometimes. The PC Freezes or shows BSOD. At times there is even possible to start windows, but I do a chkdsk it just dies again.
Does someone have any idead what could it be?
I have a computer which is randomly crashing and restarting (The screen goes black and Windows boots up again).
Also, on some occasions (after crashing or when starting up normally) 2.1GB of my 3GB total RAM is “hardware reserved” according to Task Manager. Only 890MB is usable, which obviously makes the computer difficult to use. Sometimes it boots and 2.7GB is usable (this is normal).
I’ve reinstalled Windows 10 from scratch, but the issue has resurfaced.
I’ve taken a look at some forums and am thinking that the PSU might be failing, or that the motherboard’s RAM slots are failing (I have 1+2GB of RAM). Based on the issues I have described, what do you think the problem could be?
As per the title, if I purchase and factory reset a used laptop or smartphone that hasn't been physically abused: is it almost as good as new?
I appreciate the battery will be fatigued and not half charge etc, but are there any other advantages of new vs factory reset devices?
by: /u/cuddlychops06 for /r/techsupport // Updated: April 06th, 2017.
If you suspect you are infected with Crypto malware (Cryptowall, Cryptolocker, TeslaCrypt, etc) DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.
Purpose & Scope of this Guide:
This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots. If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large scale. However, there will be times that this guide fails in removing malware. If that is the case, please make a post for further assistance, stating that this guide was unsuccessful. It is recommended to only accept advice from a “Trusted” technician. I am writing this guide in layman’s terms so that most people will be able to understand it with ease.
Disclaimer:
The following instructions are recommendations only. You take full responsibility for any steps you choose to perform on your computer. While the following recommendations are performed without issue on countless machines, there is always a risk of damaging your Operating System or experiencing data loss on any machine. It is solely YOUR responsibility to save all work and back up any and all important data on your system before proceeding. Also note that once a computer has been compromised with malware, it should not be considered clean until a complete reformat has taken place.
Malware Remediation Steps:
Before proceeding, go into your browser’s extensions and remove all suspicious items. Also go into your browser’s settings and remove any default search providers and unusual homepages. If you are unsure how to do this, proceed to Step 1.
Download and run the following tools in this order. Run all tools unless otherwise instructed. All tools should be run in Normal Mode (not Safe Mode) unless you are unable to boot Normal Mode, or the scans fail in Normal Mode. All tools must be run under an Administrator account. Do not remove any tool-generated logs in the event a helper needs you to post them to further assist you.
1) Run rkill.com. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to finish. Do not reboot when done.
Kills running malicious processes
Removes policies in the registry that prevent normal OS operation
Repairs file extension hijacks
2) Download an updated copy Malwarebytes 3.0. Turn on the “Scan for Rootkits” option. Then, run a “Scan”
3) Run Malwarebytes ADWCleaner using the “Scan” option. Then press “Cleaning” when finished and allow it to reboot your system.
4) Run Malwarebytes Junkware Removal Tool and allow it to finish. Reboot your computer upon completion.
Optional, Advanced Step (only run if previous tools fail to solve problem):
5) Run Sophos HitmanPro
HitmanPro is a phenomenal "second-opinion" malware scanner.
Please note: If malware has prohibited you from browsing the web or downloading files, you can try running the NetAdapter Repair Tool with all options checked which will attempt to restore your internet connection & default browser settings. You may have to download these tools on another computer and move them to a flash drive that you can plug into the infected machine.
Have adware or spyware on your Mac?
Try Malwarebytes Anti-Malware for Mac (formerly Adware Medic). Please make a post if it is unsuccessful.
If you have run all of the above tools successfully, you should be malware-free. If you are still experiencing problems, please make a post in /r/techsupport for further assistance.
Follow-up Steps (highly recommended):
What is malware?
Malware is an umbrella term used to refer to a variety of forms of hostile or intrusive software, including computer viruses, worms, trojan horses, ransomware, spyware, adware, scareware, and other malicious programs. It can take the form of executable code, scripts, active content, and other software. [Source: Wikipedia.com]
How did I get infected?
It is difficult to track down the source of an infection. Most infections are actually given permission to run unknowingly by the user. It is recommended to keep User Account Control turned on and never give access to something you do not trust or did not open. Many other infections come via exploits in your browser or browser plug-ins on websites you visit. Always be very careful what you install. Make sure you trust the source implicitly. When downloading programs, always use the publisher’s website directly.
How to prevent future infections:
Be very careful what you download and install. Keep programs like Java & Flash up-to-date, but do so using their official websites or Ninite installers. Use Unchecky to prevent accidental installation of adware & spyware during product installations. Make sure Windows is kept up-to-date as well. Many Windows updates patch exploits and vulnerabilities in your operating system. Most infections are active because the user has unknowingly given it Administrative permission to install and run. The first line of defense starts with you.
The following tools will aide you in keeping your computer clean:
Free Anti-Virus Suggestions:
Helpful Tools:
