Hi guys i could use some help,
I have a 16g sandisk sd card in my samsung s7, the other day while taking pictures it said it was full, iv just gone to look in my gallery all my pictures are gone and when i check the card on the storage menu it says
The data on this card is corrupt to use it it must be set up?
Any help would be much appreciated as i have alot of important stuff on there thanks
Computer worked fine until recently. Now in task manager even though I have 16 GB RAM, and with programs only 1-2 GB is used, it says 90% memory is used. So whenever I play games, like league of legends, it automatically closes it because low memory. For some reason the cached memory is always 11-13 GB, making only 3-5 GB available. Is this the problem, how do I free up more memory so it doesn't always say 90% memory used?
I have a buddy with a dead 2.0 port.
I want a case with a 3.0 port, but I want a 3.1 port.
There are probably some cheap cases that could benefit from this.
Internet plan: Spectrum Extreme Internet Modem: Arris Surfboard SB6141 Router: TP Link Archer C7 AC1750 For the past two days my router has not been giving off any wireless signal and my computer which is hooked up via ethernet from the back of the router has not been getting connection either. I have connected the modem directly to the computer and the internet works no problem but not through the router. I have tried all sorts of resetting, changing cables and even contacted TP Link support but have not found the problem. I also tried my old router which was a Linksys Etherfast Cable/DSL Router ver4.3. And that one would also not work.
I am borrowing a friends laptop to play games (because my laptop cant) and have been having a problem for the past month. I use a wired usb mouse and keyboard to play and lately they both randomly stop responding, mostly the mouse. i would be playing and the mouse would stop responding for a second or the buttons wouldn't work. when i pick it up the light would be flickering or off, then go back to normal. The keyboard would, not as often as the mouse, stop responding and i would be stuck moving in one direction. The worst thing to happen is i would be playing and the mouse would randomly turn off, then the keyboard would get stuck and i would not be able to do anything. the lights on the keyboard for caps lock and number lock would not come on or turns off, yet the light for the mouse stays on even though i cant click or move the cursor. When this happens the trackpad on the laptop stops working and no buttons on the keyboard work. the only buttons that do are the mouse 1 and 2 for the trackpad for some reason. When this happens i have to hard restart to get it back to normal, until it happens again...
The Laptop is HP, i3, 4gb ram Mouse is Logitech M100 Keyboard is Nextech
Another thing, none of this happens when i plug the mouse and keyboard into my laptop since im typing this with the keyboard, so i don't think its the mouse and keyboard. I looked up other cases and noticed this problem happens a lot with logitech mice, maybe that's the problem, idk...
My 64bit win7 computer will randomly lock up, no blue screen, no crash restart, just literally freeze in place. I've found that if I replace the RAM the problem will go away for a few months but will always come back. This has been an on going issue for over a year now.
Windows Reliability monitor only shows that windows was not shut down properly because I have to do a hardware restart when this issue happens. I have no way of determining the cause of this problem.
Memtest shows no errors but for whatever reason if I were to replace the RAM, like I've done in the past, the problem will go away for a few months. This is driving me nuts. Surely there's some way I can figure out what exactly is causing this problem. Its none of my other hardware because its all relatively new and has been replaced within the past year, long after the problem has been happening.
I have a proper ground going to all my outlets and I've checked voltage on my outlets. The voltage runs normal and there's no voltage on the ground at all. I've checked voltage coming from the power supply which seems to be in normal ranges. Again, I've replaced the power supply a few months back but it seems to have had no effect on the problem.
The RAM I'm using is PNY DDR3 8GB (16Gb total, two sticks). The RAM is situated in the proper slots on the mother board and the bios shows the ram to operating its correct frequency and voltage.
I'm not looking for anyone to tell me what's wrong because I sincerely doubt anyone can help me diagnose this beyond what I've already checked. What I really want to know is if there is a full proof or more reliable way of determining what's going on before a crash and if anything is acting unstable right before the system locks up.
Hi guys, Occsionally I have trouble typing as some of my keys stop working, and start working after some time (about 30 mins-an hour). This only seems to crop up about once a month or so. The problem persists between restrts nd shutdown-wait-boot cycles. I suspect that it's a physical issue since sometimes I can press the key hard and it works, and sometimes it doesn't.
The troublesome keys are: Esc, F(one), tilde, 'one', tab, capslock and A; all located on the top left corner of my keyboard.
My laptop is an Acer Aspire M5-48(one)PT, all stock save for the ram (upgraded to GSkill DDR3 (one)x8GB last year) and was purchased around 20(one)3.
When I launch GeForce Experience, no Games can be found, I cannot add any Game Locations either.
When I launch GeForce Experience: http://ift.tt/2f37T9g
When I try to scan for games: http://ift.tt/2higq8N
After ~30 seconds of idling: http://ift.tt/2f3cKah
After some research, apparently it is something to do with the NVIDIA NetworkService Container Service.
Every other service but the NVIDIA network service is running: http://ift.tt/2higqWl
When I try to Start the service manually, I get this: http://ift.tt/2f348jY
I have since uninstalled ALL NVIDIA products and reinstalled them with the same issue.
Any help would be great!
Additional Info:
All started when I tried to update my existing GeForce installation
I think I have a GTX 960?
How can I do this? I'm trying to host a game online (0 A.D) and it says that I need this port to be open in order for me to do so. I am relatively inexperienced with computers so I don't really know where to start.
Basically, when we got back from holiday the colours were all messed up really bad. Here are 2 examples. After browsing through the few tutorials I could find on how to fix this, besides replacing circuits the best solution I could find was changing the DDR setting in the advanced settings menu. The setting in my screen is on "ecron" but it's unable to be changed. Does anyone know how to make it changeable, or know any other solution? The model is a LE37A457C1D (if any other info is needed tell me please, I have absolutely no knowledge on TVs).
I recently bought a MacBook Pro laptop and it's been fantastic. It works great and is easy to use. One question though, I updated the apps like iMovie and Garage Band when I first got the laptop but the red dot above the App Store is still there. Obviously this doesn't impact the performance of the computer but it's just bothering the hell out of me. Can someone help me get rid of bit?
Hi, I have a brand new Dell Inspiron 15 5577 and its been having this issue since I got it. It happens every time I use the computer, time between stutters varies but happens frequently during casual use/music and gaming. The screen pretty much freezes, mouse movement is super slow and the audio slows to a something i would describe as a crackle. Chrome also doesn't respond. Windows 10, 7th Gen Intel Core i7, 8 GB RAM, 1000 GB HDD + 128GB SSD), NVIDIA GTX 1050
Is it possible, in Windows 2012 R2 security, to grant a user access inside a folder that's within file share to which the user has no permission?
Example: Server A has 4 shared folders: Finance, HR, Management, Public
Suppose no one has permission to access "Management", but inside that share is a folder to which we want to grant everyone permission.
How can that be done?
After installing the Windows 10 Creators update I've been getting random freezes/hangs. No blue screen or anything, everything just freezes and any audio that was playing turns into loud buzzing. Nothing will close or open during this, forcing me to power off my PC and reboot it. I've had task manager opened up while it froze before to see if I can catch a glimpse of what causes this but nothing seemed out of ordinary. The most common times it'll freeze seem to be during video watching or game playing. It has frozen from the simplest of games to the most intensive (For my PC that is). Here are some specs pulled from Speccy. Thanks for any help provided.
OS - Windows 10 Home 64-bit
CPU - AMD FX-4100 Zambezi 32nm Technology
RAM - 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 805MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard - Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. GA-970A-UD3 (Socket M2)
Graphics - 1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series (XFX Pine Group)
Storage - 465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-001CA0 ATA Device (SATA)
Recently purchased a new power supply for my Dell Optiplex 9020 as the standard 290W wasn't enough for a new GPU I installed.
I finally managed to hook it up and test it and it would power up, get to the Dell screen and then promptly shut down, and restart itself again. Queue this for 3 times (without me even touching it), and then it booted up perfectly fine. Ran smoothly without a hitch in the OS and I thought all was good.
2 hours later, powered it up and the same happened, but with a blank white over black text reading "ME Invocation Flow Error". Shuts itself down, starts up again and boots just fine the next time round.
What is the issue here and am I in any danger of ruining parts of the PC?
My system:
Dell Optiplex 9020
Intel Core i7-4790 3.6 Ghz
MSI GeForce GTX 1050
PSU: Segotep SG-D600 S.C.R
Hello, as the title says I use a Dualshock 4 controller to game with on my PC. I am running Windows 10 with the latest updates and this bluetooth dongle. http://ift.tt/2vm9E8n
The controller works fine wired. It will disconnect anywhere in between 1-5 seconds once it syncs. I have uninstalled the Bluetooth Drivers and reinstalled. That seemed to help a bit. I have noticed this start happening when I started FFX but I doubt it is the game fault as it disconnects on other games as well.
Tried the exact same controller and dongle on a different PC. I have heard issues with the new Creators Update, which both PCs are running.
Anyone who has a workaround will be great appreciated.
Long story short but my OS was corrupted and the only way to get my computer (Dell XPS 8900 running Windows 10) up and running was to reinstall the OS from USB and port all files to Windows.old. All the files are there but all the software is not installed. Is there a quick and easy way to get everything back to the way things were before the reinstall? Or do I need to manually restore things one at a time?
I've got a Samsung NP700Z5B-W01UB, from 2012, with these Specs: /CPU: Intel Core-i7 2670QM /GPU1: Intel HD Graphics 3000 /GPU2: AMD Radeon 7400m /8GB of RAM /Running Windows 10 version 1703, build 15063.483
It frequently gets to 100°C while doing simple things like,watching 720p 30fps Youtube, running Photoshop at all, even if I'm not doing anything, etc. Task manager reports nothing being highly used, and idling around 10% CPU usage, 50% Ram, and 75 degrees.
I've cleaned the insides spotless, and replaced the thermal paste with Arctic Silver, but that's hardly changed anything.
I'm pretty much on my last leg of hope, so any suggestions are appreciated.
What I want:
Modem-Router#1 ~~~ Router#2-Desktop
Router#1= Netgear WNDR3400v3
Router#2= Belkin F9K1002v1
I started trying to set it up as an access point but I think that requires the two routers to by connected by LAN and I need wireless. Then I was looking into WDS but don't think the Netgear supports that.
I am looking for a good (and cheap) amplifier for my new system. Any suggestions?
The system (mine is in white) :http://ift.tt/2ucRcKg
Hello All,
After using the ctrl+ shift + esc command and prioritizing my game to high, there is a significant decrease in mouse input responsiveness although I see a great increase in frame rate. I notice that if I set it to "above normal" prioritization, input is fine, but the increase in frame rate is not as good. Is there something else that I can prioritize along with the game application to improve responsiveness?
My Acer Aspire 5742 shuts down, loses power 5 - 25 seconds after powering on. :(
It started when I was playing a video game and the laptop suddenly shut down. I thought it was overheating, so I let it cool down. About an hour later I turned it on and it boot normally, but 45 min. later the laptop shut down again. Next time I tried, it turned off 20, 5 minutes, then 30, 20 seconds later. In those 20 s after pressing the power button no errors or beeps occur, just the Acer logo screen. I even get past Acer logo sometimes or go to Bios password prompt if i press F2, just before laptop powers off. This all happened in the course of a few hours, laptop was working fine beforehand, no overheating (think so cause games lagged when laptop was overheating previously). If I turn it on again, just after it powered off, the laptop shuts down in 7 seconds, as opposed to 25 seconds if i leave it alone for a while. Also, according to task manager CPU and RAM usage is normal when shut down happens.
Hello, I am going to purchase a GTX 1050 and its dimensions just fit in my case, but the back of it is very close to the end of a ram stack. Is this safe and will it damage the components in any way? Really Bad Diagram, Sorry.
I've been googling and no one seems to share the same problem. My pc keeps freezing on start up and I've been trying to get in to safe mode on the uefi but I just can't find out how to anywhere
Hello everyone,
I don't know if this is the correct sub for this but I do think it is the closest I am going to get. I currently have a Windows 8 gaming build with a single 1TB hard drive. I have recently subbed to a video game matchmaking service (CS:GO - ESEA) that has very intrusive anti-cheat. It scans your system, RAM, browser use, etc from as long as your computer is running (the client can be closed but it still scans). This is not ok on my system that has personal info and such. What I plan on doing about this is to take a second hard drive I had laying around (Windows 7) and download the ESEA client and my gaming-only programs onto it. I plan to switch my drives everytime I play this game. So my questions:
Will this damage my computer in any way to constantly be unplugging and plugging in these drives?
Is there a way to format my drive while keeping windows 7 on it?
Any other alternatives to this system?
Thanks, Mannaboi
Edit: 4. Also, are there any flaws I may be missing in this system?
I recently built my first PC back in January, so forgive me for my lack of knowledge and terminology. I'm experiencing strange display bugs on my desktop and during games. For example, if I mouse over desktop icons, my entire screen gives a little shake or shudder. Also, while in many programs, Word or Excel for example, if I open up menu windows, many of the options are invisible, and won't become visible unless I scroll over them. These menus also have random lines or colors that clearly don't belong.
When I disable my GPU, and use the integrated GPU on the motherboard, these desktop bugs stop occurring.
On the gaming side, when I play something like DOOM, I get random polygons on surfaces flashing (artifacting???) when I move about the game.
I have a RX 480 8gb, with an i5 6500, Asus monitor 60hz.
I've got quite a bit of data on that phone, don't like others looking at it.
I was transferring some movies to my phone's SD card when the USB cord came unplugged and interrupted the transfer halfway through. Usually there'll be a corrupted file I can delete but in this case there was no remnant of the file that I could find and now I have less space on the card than before the transfer. Is there a way to recover this lost space?
So recently my SSD died, so me being me thought i'd purchase one of these M.2 formfactor SSD's I've heard so much about.
Bit of googling and my board supported it so I jumped forward and ordered one. Perfect.
THe problem I am having is I cannot get my motherboard to enable the M.2 Slot that has been sitting there looking pretty for so long. I have been through every menu of the BIOS atleast a hundred times to no avail.
My board is an Asus Z97-P. - http://ift.tt/1M2HWk6 The M.2 Card is a Corsair Force Le MP500 (240GB) http://ift.tt/2f1eXTQ
I have watched every youtube video I can find and been through a large section of googles non helpfulness.
Willing to give massive love hugs and appreciation cuddles to anyone that can assist.
Thanks in advance.
my old cpu was a i5 2400 with a RX 480 8GB, which ran games fine but now I've upgraded to a i7 7700k with my RX 480 but Black ops 3 wont boot past the load up video and sometimes Doom would crash the same way but mid game. I've deleted the video folder in the black ops 3 to which allowed me to get the the menus where it says checking files and freezes but the sound keeps going. Any ideas on if this is a faulty graphic card?
Hi, I have a Dell U2415B Monitor that had a small amount of water leaking inside the chassis. I opened it to let it dry for some time and now the problem is some blue flickering lines that appears in this picture: http://ift.tt/2veDaw2
The problem occurs after 30-40 minutes of usage.
I have an Asus GTX 970 Strix, and I have other monitors connected to it and everything is fine, so not a problem on that side.
When I opened the monitor to let it dry i've found one of the Flat connectors of the panel damaged: http://ift.tt/2tQLhLo
Do you think anything can be done other than changing the whole panel (which would mean buy a new monitor)?
Thanks to everyone in advice!
I've always dreaded having to do network stuff, because it's one of the tech subjects I happen to know next to nothing about. I guess this is my baptism by fire, because there's no moving on without this. So, I recently moved, and whereas I used to have the house modem in my room for an ethernet connection to my PC, that is no longer the case. My room isn't easy to access and there's absolutely zero way to run an ethernet cable in, so for the time being I'm forced to use a shitty, horrible USB wifi card that takes hours to do simple tasks. I guess it helps me for now, but the PC is crippled and limping, and this is by no means a permanent solution.
So I found a spare router that I thought could be used to connect to the home network wirelessly, and figured I'd just ethernet it directly to my PC? I plugged it in and plugged the ethernet into my PC. It reads that the router is there, but doesn't actually pick any network up. Is there some way to configure that router and connect it, or am I gonna need to buy a wifi extender? I'm not sure what the best course of action is. The router is a Verizon MI424WR, if that helps at all. I've read the online manual, but it doesn't help much.
What's my best course of action for getting a connection good enough to play games and make calls?
I tried resetting the password but that requires me to know the domain the account was registered with although my email end in .icloud.com. Any suggestions how I can access and get rid of or just get rid of this other account associated with my email? Thank you.
This might not be the right sub for this so apologies if not. I'm looking for an affordable computer that I can stream 24/7 from. All it needs to be able to do is run OBS and hold a few files. What requirements should I be looking for and do you have any reccomendations?
Hi guys, yesterday I bought new audio speakers, logitech z533, they works great if I'm just listening music.. but when for example I try to open a program, an application or start to surf on the browser, during the loading the sound start to slow a little bit and the speakers make strange noises for a couple of seconds..any help? my pc is not that old (i5 blabla), could be probably the fact that is kind of full? time to format it? thanks in advance
My sister has an old mac, along with an HFS+ harddrive that had pictures etc. on it. I made a stupid attempt to mount the disk with the appropriate read/write rights from my Linux partition before making a full image of the disk. Something went wrong in the mounting procedure, which corrupted the partition table. I immediately made an image of the disk to not do any further damage.
Running photorec does recover a ton of files, so my hunch is that the bulk of the disk is OK, and that I really only messed up the partition table. I have tried to fix the partition table using fsck on my Debian machine. It did make an attempt to fix the disk, but in the end returns 'Invalid B-tree node size'. I then also tried testdisk, which finds partitions, but is unable to fix anything as it concerns an HFS+ partition. It suggests the use of parted to rescue the disk, but since it is a disk image and not a mounted partition I am not sure how to proceed. I have mounted the image and opened it in parted, but in parted I cannot find a way to proceed.
I have access to an iOS machine if I need to, although I don't own one myself (the laptop that disk belonged to no longer works). Does anyone have experience with a similar problem, or does someone know how to proceed?
So like the title says, I've had this laptop for less than a year and it was getting about 4 of the 9 hours battery life it advertised. I drove to Geek Squad because my mom thought getting the protection plan was a good idea, explained my problem, gave them the laptop and left, hoping to pick it up 2 days from now. I got a call at about 7:50AM or so today saying that they had goofed up the maintenance and that my laptop's m.2 (the only storage supported by the laptop) was no longer reading. They sent it off to the manufacturer to see what they could do but it's likely not going to come back fixed considering its an issue with the motherboard itself. Since it was the geek squad agent's error, what does this mean for me? Can I get restitution for my now gimped laptop?
Have an issue with Windows 10 booting on an HP all in one desktop. The error code it's giving is 0xc000021a. I can't boot to safe mode, I've tried running sfc /scannow and it failed, tried resetting Windows from the automatic repair menu and that didn't work either. Tried disabling driver signature enforcement as well and that failed to work. I'm about at my wit's end, has anyone else had this issue or know of a way to fix it?
Thanks!
I never realized how much I click the letter until now. I use a Roccat keyboard, and for some reason whenever I press the letter my audio goes out. The keyboard is not new or anything, but I've started to use it again and this is happening
Is there a way to simply turn of my keyboard controlling my audio in the first place?
EDIT: Also whenever I click the mute botten is both mutes and does "H". Weird...
Hey /r/techsupport,
So I've encountered an issue that has been prevalent today, my games have stopped connecting to my internet properly they have begun to encounter a lot of lag like I have a really bad internet connection or something.
Essentially this begun happening after I flushed my dns in order to remove a bug from player unknown battlegrounds - now I can't even play overwatch and leave the spawn room without hitting 3000ms and being promptly disconnected.
I have contacted my ISP but they don't really know what is happening and are simply suggesting I get a new router - but I don't believe that is the issue as I have had no problems for ages and now all of a sudden with this change no games are working.
During regular browsing/youtube/netflix everything is fine - it's just videogames that get a super super high ping/bandwidth error for whatever reason - The youtube video I followed to fix the dns PUBG problem was this one.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUhAN59VSpY&t=185s)
ipconfig/release
Ipconfig/all
ipconfig/flushdns
Ipconfig/renew
netsh int ip set dns
netsh winsock reset
That's what lead me to losing my connection to big games like overwatch and what has given me errors.
Any ideas? Windows 7 OS
Wireless card: Asus pce-n15 11n wireless Lan pci-e Card
I have reset router, and hard reset it, fiddled with router settings under guidance from ISP - I have made sure nothing in the house is downloading (as mentioned this kind of stuff isn't the cause I assure you). The internet basically completely drops out for everyone when trying to access these games..
Windows 10
PSU: Corsair CX 500W 80 Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
GPU: Geforce GTX 960 2GB
CPU: i5 4590 @ 3.3 GHz
RAM: 16 GB DDR3
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC Mate ATX LGA 1150
My PC keeps shutting itself off and instantly turning on while gaming. I believe it is overheating, but I am not sure if it is, or what part could be the issue. My CPU temperature before shutting down is as high as 60 degrees celsius, which isn't too high to the best of my understanding.
It happened once over a month ago and started again 2 days ago.
Yes
I built the pc in January 2016.
No
Running games causes it to shut down. It can happen in as soon as half an hour, or it can not happen after even a few hours.
I have monitored my CPU temperature, and it doesn't seem to be too high. I have checked my fans, and they seem to be working properly. I have also disabled automatic restart to see if the computer would still shut off by itself, and it does.
Windows 8.1
Toshiba L-500-C
Operating System
Windows 8.1 64-bit
CPU
AMD K1651 °C
Carrizo-L 28nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)
Motherboard
AMD Gardenia (Socket FP4)
Graphics
Generic PnP Monitor (1366x768@60Hz)
1024MB ATI AMD Radeon R4 Graphics (Toshiba)43 °C
2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R5 M330 (Toshiba)
CrossFire Disabled
Storage
931GB TOSHIBA MQ01ABD100 (SATA)24 °C
Optical Drives
TSSTcorp CDDVDW SU-208GB
WinCDEmu drive
WinCDEmu drive
Audio
Razer Surround Audio Controller
N/A
I put my laptop into hibernation on Saturday night and then went to turn it on on Sunday. The lights at the front of the laptop as well as the power, capslock and numlock all litup. I could hear the fan and the screen was blank but either was turning on and off rapidly or it was the backlit doing so, not entirely sure. I could hear a faint clicking noise as though the computer was repeatedly trying to boot but couldn't get past the 1st step. I turned it off and on about 4 or 5 times with the same result. Eventually it booted normally and has been fine ever since.
When I turned it on on Sunday.
No
2015
No
I put it into hibernation on Saturday night and the problem occurred on Sunday when I went to start it up.
Turning it off and on eventually solved the issue. I still have no idea what happened or if it will happen again.
Hi, yesterday I posted some basic questions on linux and you guys have provided very detailed answers to me.
But I cant install it now.
I downloaded Linux Mint ISO.
Then I created a live usb using this tutorial: http://ift.tt/2rYJvcX
Then I restarted the pc and pressed F12 to select usb drive to boot from.
Then everything on screen is dark. I patiently waited for exactly 20 minutes and nothing happened. No Linux screen showed up and I thought that's it. I switched my laptop off and here I'm again.
It loaded one time though with UBUNTU a few hours ago but I didn't do anything then. Just tried the liveusb then and switched off to load from HDD i.e. windows again. I thought I should download mint! Now, neither ubuntu nor mint is loading. Even the opening screen isn't showing up. Windows is working though.
My Laptop is five years old.
Edit: When I created the LiveUSB from Rufus, the log file said this--
Created: H:\syslinux.cfg Finalizing, please wait... Unable to create H:autorun.inf NOTE: This may be caused by a poorly designed security solution. See http://ift.tt/2uax9wb.
I did go to http://ift.tt/2uax9wb and found this incompatible software lists.
But I don't think I use any of this.
Every time I try to play a game that isn't from before the year 2005, I get a blue screen with that error after 10 minutes, sometimes sooner, sometimes later. I've updated all of my drivers and my PC is up to date.
I found a site that said I should "disable memory cache", but I'm not sure how to do that on Windows 10- only Windows 8. Can I get help with this or any other suggestions?
I updated windows 10 yesterday, everything seemed to have gone smoothly until I found that I couldn't connect to the internet. I tried troubleshooting and Windows Network Diagnostics said that there was a problem with the driver for the wi-fi adapter. I tried the repair to no avail. "Windows couldn't automatically bind the IP protocol stack to the network adapter"
What can I do to fix this?
This has happened twice now with two different numbers calling in. These are people in my contact list who I call frequently. However, when i try to return the calls, it gives me the "Number changed by SIM" message and then calls 617-963-8334. This is some spammy number as my searches have showed.
I have an unrooted Samsung Galaxy S7 and am using the default dialer. And this phone has worked fine up until the last few days with this problem.
What do I have going on that caused this? Does anyone know? I cannot figure this out. And what can I do to fix this? Thanks.
Right now the only way I can see the BIOS before I boot up (linux+windows dual boot) is if I have one of my three monitors connected via motherboard. For reasons that aren't too important tl;dr, it's a pain in the ass that if I want to see the BIOS, I have to have one of my monitors connected via MOBO. Is there a way I can make the BIOS display from GPU.
OSes: Xubuntu 16.04, Windows 10 home Processor: AMD FX 6300 GPU: nVidia gtx 960x SSD: Yes
My Logitech 2.1 speakers have a background of static when plugged into my computers I/O ports.
This happens with both front and rear I/O ports.
Plugging a pair of headphones into the I/O ports, and audio sounds fine. Plugging the speakers into my phone, and they sound fine.
I've tried restarting my computer, plugging speakers/computer into a variety of different outlets.
The only clue is this.
"Your front headphone impedance is equal to or higher than 110 ohms."
This message shows up regardless of what port the speakers are plugged into. The speakers have an in-line volume control. I can still hear music/games/etc. when using the speakers, just with that constant static. Turning the in-line control all the way down adjusts the volume, but doesn't adjust the volume of the background static.
The static is present during boot, so it can't be anything Windows-side.
This is making me tear my hair out.
So, thanks in advance for anyone that can help.
Long story short, I'm looking to switch between 2 stations, with separate keyboards/monitors but a single PC.
I currently have 2 PCs for gaming. The primary one is connected to 3 24" monitors and a single 22" touchscreen monitor in an obutto revolution game station. This is the one i upgrade, then use the spare parts to add to my secondary computer.
The secondary computer, about 6' away has 2 27" monitors and is at a standard desk and chair.
I also have a HTC Vive connected to the primary computer.
I have this set up so for flight/racing sims I can use the primary computer and for strategy/fps games I can use the more comfortable normal desk and chair.
This has been fine until my secondary computer requires a complete rebuild and as I already have a working pc would be keen to avoid the cost of building another pc.
I'd ideally like some sort of switch, like you can get for HDMIs so I can select say '1' and it boots up the game stations screens/keyboard/mouse
'2' for the desk based monitor etc.
'3' for the Vive, plus one of the 2 stations available.
I've been unable to find a solution and it seems fairly peculiar what I'm trying to do. Any help would be appreciated.
As the title says, I'm experiencing incredibly slow internet on my new XPS15. This laptop should be the best device I own by far but, for some reason, webpages and downloads are extremely slow.. every single device in my home is faster, including my inferior 2012 samsung laptop..
What could be the issue? It came with one year of free MCafee protection.. Maybe that's the problem??
How can I check where the problem is and how might I solve it?
I'm using windows 10 and this goes for both chrome and edge
Thanks!!
EDIT: The problem seems to be internet related. Programs and stuff open quickly as they should
Windows 7
Intel i3-3227U CPU @ 1.90 GHz. 4 GB Ram. Intel HD Graphics
120 GB Transcend SSD, partitioned into two separate drives.
N/A
As per the title, I have a blue screen problem. The most I could gather is this:-
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name:BlueScreen
OS Version:6.1.7600.2.0.0.256.1
Locale ID:1033
Additional information about the problem:
BCCode:c5
BCP1:FFFFF810030109B0
BCP2:0000000000000002
BCP3:0000000000000000
BCP4:FFFFF80002FB5070
OS Version:6_1_7600
Service Pack:0_0
Product:256_1
Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\073017-4836-01.dmp
C:\Users\mcn\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-7082-0.sysdata.xml
I've tried using Legacy Boot options also, but no luck so far. Please help!
As soon as I started using an SSD instead of the stock HDD
Yes
N/A
No
Appears to be random. Not noticed any triggers so far.
As the description shows, tried using Legacy Boot option instead of UEFI. No luck so far.
Hi,
Really need some help please. I was using my Win 10 pc as normal this morning when it suddenly BSOD with a store exception error.
After rebooting it is now stuck in a repair/reboot cycle. Repair/rest doesn't work. Have tried chkdsk and dism. After some nosing around I have discovered that the primary disk now has 2 partitions on it!
The C drive is now only 100mb is systemreserved and what was the C drive is now labelled F I can see all the files on the F drive (windows etc). I have no idea why this would have happened.
When I try and boot with win 10 usb I get \boot\bcd error 0x000000f "the boot config data for your pc is missing or contains errors"
I've tried playing with rebuilding the bootbcd but I don't really understand it.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks
Hey techsupport!
I am beyond frustrated after two days of work, and would absolutely love any help with this issue.
I have an Alienware Aurora R4 desktop. Windows 10 - Intel i7-3930K CPU 3.20GHz, 6 cores CN-07JNH0 Baseboard (I think it's also called X79) 16GB RAM - W299G 875W PSU GeForce GTX 580 graphics card
I purchased an Oculus Rift for my computer, and a compatibility tool said that I only needed an upgrade to my graphics card to run it. I purchased an EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 card from Amazon to run it.
After updating the BIOS to A11, I could finally get to my desktop screen with the new card. I updated the drivers and attempted to run some VR. The computer seemed slower overall, but it worked. It worked for a short while anyway until it slowed my computer down gradually to the point of freezing entirely. This happened a few times, and would even happen while just sitting at the desktop. When it froze, the screen would have strange lines scattered around (picture in comments).
I swapped back to my 580 card, and everything ran fine. I again went back to the 1080 to find that the screen would only boot to a black screen. No logos, no anything. The monitor power light remains green like it's receiving something, but it's just black. I went back to the 580, restarted in safe mode, and ran a DDU to clean out the drivers so that I could maybe reinstall them with the new card in. After putting the 1080 in again, it still met me with a black screen.
I'm close to giving up because it feels like I've tried everything, but I know there's got to be something I'm missing. The computer should run fine with the 1080, right? Or is the card bad? I'm open to trying anything!
Thanks for your time!
I recently moved my Windows installation to a different SSD. Now whenever I boot it goes into UEFI and on the list of boot drives it only shows one of my HDDs which doesn't contain Windows. Clicking on "List all drives" shows the correct SSD but after clicking it, it restarts UEFI and showed the same thing. Clicking on "Save & Exit" boots Windows properly.
Myrtille (http://ift.tt/1Msoj59) provides a simple way to connect Windows based remote desktops and applications from a web browser, without any plugin, extension or configuration.
As a web UI, it’s device and OS independant. Server side, it uses the .NET (C#) framework, IIS and the RDP protocol through an HTTP(S) gateway.
Its particularity relies in the use of the .NET/C# framework to offer a better integration with Windows (equivalent solutions, Guacamole to name just one, are running on Linux/Apache/Java).
It supports HTML4 (one of the few to do that), HTML5, file transfer and WebP compression (in addition to PNG and JPEG).
It's primarily aimed at system or network admins and devs but everyone can use it.
I hope you'll enjoy it! feedback is welcome :)
Thanks!
Few months ago I created an email address for a new android phone. I never sing-up with it in any service, nor did I share it with anyone. So how's it possible I still get spam?
My fan is touch and go. I have a new fanless laptop, which is superior to my old one in every way, but I hate the sound quality so i'm stuck with using my old one for recreational use. I'm looking online for a fan for my HP 2000- 363NR and I can't seem to find one made exactly for my unit. I'm not sure how hardware works, but shouldn't the fans be tailor made to its machine?
Can an untrained average joe replace a laptop fan? Or is it not worth the risk?
It is embarrassing to note the liquid that made its way into the laptop, but I figured I might as well tell the truth since it's not exactly a clean liquid.
The way she described it to me is that only a little run-off went into the laptop. She tried turning the computer on and even though the power light comes on (and 3 out of the 4 lights near the trackpad) the screen doesn't. If knowing what lights comes on will help the diagnosis process I will call her ASAP and find out. Likewise, if any video or pictures will help please let me know and I will get them to you.
I instructed her to place the whole unit in rice to dry it, but even after a few days there is no change. The screen remains black/off.
If there is no way to save the laptop/switch the screen, then is it possible to get the pictures, videos, and passwords saved on it? The hard drive was 500GB so I used it as my mom's phone back up every time it got full, which is now in hindsight a bad idea.
Please let me know if there is anything I can give you guys that will help you help me.
Thank you for your help.
So this past thursday, my laptop battery kicked the bucket (it could no longer hold a charge) and i got another one arriving tomorrow. I don't want to buy another one anytime soon I'm hoping for tips so i can keep this battery healthy for some time.
Help! This problem is making me crazy!
Basically, my monitor turns off randomly and the gpu fan kicks in very loudly (pretty sure at 100%), but the system in the background is still running! Once I was using Skype and I could continue the audio call while the computer was in that state :/
There is no reason to suspect heating problems, I monitored for a while using speedfan and it showed regular temps, both while gaming and when idle.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Gtx 1060, core i5 3K, 16gb of ram.
As the title says whenever I try to extract a file it becomes corrupt, I tried using winrar and 7zip and the same thing still happens. I've tried turning off anti-virus and it hasn't solved the problem.
So the issue at hand is that I was stupid enough to forget all about my SSD when installing W10 on my first ever PC. So what I did was install the W10 on my HDD.
Now 7 months later I realized what a moron I've been and want to install the OS on my SSD (250gb), since it should be a lot faster.
I looked some stuff up about this subject, but I either got told to do a clean install on the SSD, or to clone the HDD to SSD.
Now, during the 7 months I've acquired 750~gb of data on my HDD so I can't really clone it to my 250gb SSD. So if I did a new, clean install on my SSD, how would it work? Would I have to take my HDD out of my PC, would I need another activation key?
Or should I just delete 500gb of games and files until I can fit it on my SSD?
Also, it's not possible to just copy paste the Windows files on the SDD, is it?
TL;DR Need help installing OS from HDD to SDD, can't just clone since HDD too much data.
e: typos and more text
I noticed a folder called "INTELL" on my computer, which had a batch file and another file just called "russian", so I scanned the folder with Malwarebytes which confirmed that it was malicious. After this, I deleted the entire folder.
However, when I start Windows now, I get an error from Windows Script Host stating - Cannot find script file: "c:\Intell\POOL\russian.vbs"
How do I prevent this script from attempting to run on every boot? I tried the Windows Malicious Software Removal Tool, and another full scan with Malwarebytes, but no luck.
I have a TPLink router MR3420 v3 (firmware3.16.9 Build 160412 Rel.45197n). And a Repeater Everest EWR-523N2.
The problem is that even though the repeater connects to the router (wirelessly), when I try to connect a device to the repeater it either can't connect (if a PC) or causes the repeater to disconnect (if an Android phone) from the router.
I tested the repeater at a friend's house with another router and also with my phone in tethering mode. In both cases the repeater worked and other devices were able to connect to it.
Could it be that the repeater isn't compatible with my TPLink router?
Things I've tried on the router:
Change channel
Change security type: WPA-PSK, WPA2-PSK, AES, TKIP (haven't tried WEP or no encryption)
Changed mode 11bgn, 11bg
Channel Width: 20 and 40 Mhz
Haven't tinkered with [Wireless Advanced settings]( http://ift.tt/2tU39ZX)
Things I've tried on the repeater:
Connect using wizard
Connect manually
Connect using WPS
Set the repeater IP address to the same as the Router subnet
Appreciate it if anyone has anymore ideas ☺️
I have a hyper 212 Evo cooling my 6600k since last year and recently the fan it came with started making sounds. I linked that issue to the fan bearings so I wanna replace the fan. I want great performance and quiet sound which led me to think of Noctua. This is their fan model that I believe will suit my needs perfect.
I absolutely don't like the colors and saw they made black ones. Is this one the same as the other just black?
Hi, I need an urgent help: Im trying to finish some online tests for my job. Hovewer, the website keeps sending an error message that it needs to have Flash (min.9) enabled on my computer.
This is most likely a problem with website, since I definitely meet this requirement. I have tried to open it in different browsers (IE and Chrome) and two different computers (Win10 and Win7).
Is there anything that can be done from my side to solve this? Please, it is very urgent.
Thank you in advance.
I have a Lenovo Ideapad Y500, with a Geforce GT 750M graphics card, purchased in 2013. The hardware isn't amazing, but it's been adequate for my needs - IE, I can run most games, even modernish ones, on low settings with stable highish framerates. Recently (as in, the last 2-3 days), performance has taken a nose dive. I am unsure how to approach this diagnostically.
As a concrete example, I've been able to play Path of Exile with a solid 30 FPS under most circumstances, and when I launch the game right now I get 12 FPS in town with substantial input lag. I don't have framerate numbers, but Heroes of the Storm was running smoothly and clearly earlier last week and is now completely unplayable.
Some quick notes:
I'm not really sure what I'm supposed to be looking for, but I downloaded a hardware monitor tool. This is a screenshot showing my framerate and the monitor. Two things stand out to me: GPU core is at 100%, meaning that is presumably the limiting factor, and GPU memory usage is pretty high (88.5%; I don't know if it's supposed to be that high). I see similar results in other games.
So... any idea what's going on, what other diagnostic steps I could take, or possible fixes? My laptop is pretty old (4 years... oof), so hardware failure seems like a legitimate possibility, but I don't know how I would determine if that is indeed what's going on. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've Tried Everything, But Nothing Works. Headset in question is the Logitech G633 Artemis. (Wired)
I've tried: -Uninstalling and Reinstalling Drivers (Device Turns Into A USB Device With A Yellow Symbol On It In Device Manager) -Updating Drivers (gives me a Code 10 error in Device Manager) -System Restore (Nothing changed) -Troubleshooting (Doesn't detect a problem)
My other Logitech devices are working completely fine. The software crashes when I try to go into the headset settings though. I have the latest drivers and software. Please help. I'm so tired of dealing with this and I just want to play csgo :(
Video Demonstrating Problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoO0Ab0E28s
It's using around 30% of my cpu and I have no clue what it is
I've an odd problem.
I have a pair of headphones plugged into my PC. When adjusting the volume using keyboard or on-screen volume options (realtek hd audio), it doesn't affect the audio output of my headphones. I can only change that volume by pressing the audio buttons on the headphones themselves.
What is causing this error?
I took my phone in to have the screen replaced. The tech guy came out to tell me he had to do a hard reset on my phone to see if that fixed the problem. Ok, sure, I knew that was coming. Then he told me he needed to flash the phone to see if it work. ok, sure, you've already wiped the damn thing. That still didn't work, so it had to be sent out. Before I leave with the shitty loaner phone, he runs out to give me my memory card. I, of course, completely forgot it was in there. The phone is 3 years old. I put it in there on day 1 and it's never left.
I got my phone back today. My memory card was at home and I had a party to go to so I didn't put it in right away. I mean, what regular, non-techy person would think to check it. I've reset a phone before, you do have to make sure that you choose not to erase the memory card, too. If I, the totally un-tech, know that, shouldn't he have known that too? I mean, that's what he does ALL DAY LONG is reset peoples' phones. Anyway, the memory card is completely wiped. Everything I had on there is gone.
I know I didn't reset the phone before I handed it over. Is there a way to check and see the last time the card was "reset"? Do they keep information like that? Luckily, I had most of the important stuff backed up to my OneDrive, but this is their 2nd fuck up and I feel like raising a little hell even if it doesn't get me anywhere, but I'm not into falsely accusing people. I am certain though, that he did it. LIke....99.998% sure.
I know little to nothing on computers but my MacBook Pro is running slow and is about 7 years old. I contacted a local "computer shop guy" and he wants to charge $220 to upgrade to an SSD or something like that and said something about memory at 250gb. Is that good? I don't really want to spend a lot on a new laptop right now. The only thing I ever use it for is to back up my family's iPhones (7 in total) and for Microsoft word.
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!
I decided to give Opera a try and to my dismay started having issues already. Each time I try to search something using the address bar (expecting to be redirected to google.com) I as taken to google.fr
I've seen some posts about it but I can't seem to find the files people recommend we edit.
Some useful info:
-I've got a MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015) -Running macOS Sierra version 10.12 -Running Opera version 46.0.2597.57
Downloaded Opera for the first time in France (was travelling), now that I'm back home, it is still saying google.fr. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling Opera but that didn't seem to help. Also cleared cookies and search history etc.
So here's the problem. When playing music if my screen is on my speakers are quite quiet, when the screen goes off for power saving my speakers jump in volume. I have no idea what could be causing this. It's an Acer spin 1 Sp113, mostly just use it for work stuff but it would be nice to have proper volume levels.
We've had a Samsung KS8000 for a few months and this has always kinda bugged me.
This they are fairly noticeable on panning or static color images (like NFL and baseball games with camera movement against the green field or simply a white background). It's definitely not something that can be fixed with changing the settings.
Is this just normal with edge-lit TVs or does it look like there's some backlight issue? Definitely way out of any return policy but still under manufacturers warranty.
Thanks.
Hello!
I am wondering if anybody can provide guidance or tips on troubleshooting with my desktop.
My rear USB ports are not working. The front USB ports in on my case were working.
So far, I updated the drivers. Everything looks good. BIOS was out of date so I decided to flash and update the BIOS. After this, the front USBs are no longer working as well.
Specs MB - MSI H81M-P33 (LGA 1150) CPU - i7-4770k - never overclocked PSU - Seasonic 660W GPU - GTX 760
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am considering on changing the motherboard if nothing else seems to work.
Thanks in advanced.
Hello everyone. Forgive me for the formatting, as I'm typing this all from my phone, and am worried a bit. Earlier today, I was doing some internal maintenance on my PC, and starting clearing dust from the inside. One thing led to another, and I spent most of the day re-cabling the system to make it look neater. Now, though, the computer will not see the HDD as a boot device, causing it to stop working. I've confirmed it's not the cable itself, as I plugged in my CD drive using the same SATA data and power cable, and it shows up when connected. When I first attempted to power on, I used a Type 4 cable for the hard disk instead of a SATA, and I'm worried this might have fried the connector board.
For specs, it's a Windows 7 Professional 64 bit running on an Asus Z97 Pro motherboard with 16GB RAM and a Nvidia Geforce GTX 960 2GB graphics card. I can confirm it was all working earlier today. Now though, I think my fiddling might have caused me a lot of headache. Also, as a request for information, if the connector board is fried, how can I salvage it? Could I buy a new board somewhere, or try something else? I have an image of the system from about 2 weeks ago on a backup drive through Macrium, and not many changes have occurred since then. I don't have a recovery media with me, but I could make one on another computer. Sorry for the rambling, but this computer means a lot to me, and I'm freaking out.
I just bought the HD598 so I could ditch my Astro A40 TR but once I got my HD598's setup I realized that a lot of games in steam a giving off audio. The ones I have noticed that don't give audio are PUBG and DS3. I also don't get any audio om team chat in Overwatch so I am not able to hear my teammates. However I can hear games and my team if I switch the default device to my monitor speakers. Please help
Windows 10
GTX 970, i7 4790k , 16 GB ram, ASUS Z97-A
N/A
<Event xmlns="http://ift.tt/XGzauq;
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}" />
<EventID>41</EventID>
<Version>3</Version>
<Level>1</Level>
<Task>63</Task>
<Opcode>0</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x8000200000000002</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2017-07-30T04:08:35.273332200Z" />
<EventRecordID>612</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>DESKTOP-I4NOIFH</Computer>
<Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data Name="BugcheckCode">0</Data>
<Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0x0</Data>
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<Data Name="SleepInProgress">0</Data>
<Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data>
<Data Name="BootAppStatus">0</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>
Last Month
Yes
N/A
No
it happens when i open overwatch, alt tab into it, or in a loading screen
A factory reset
so, I tried to download a windows ISO from Microsoft's website, but it wouldn't let me since my product key is for Dell (OEM). I want to install a new SSD, so I want a thumb drive install disk. windows 7
So when I try to go on "lewd" sites or pretty much any site that has to do with inappropriate stuff, I just get a message saying OpenDNS blocks this site. I just switched to AT&T and they added this. Had Comcast before and this never happened. I tried changing my DNS to google's but even that failed (I think I'm doing it wrong), but if there is anything anyone can do to help, please comment or pm. I want this filter thing to go away
i dropped my phone on my laptop (specifically below the keyboard to the right of the trackpad) and my screen went to a checkered type of pattern and my speakers made a buzzing noise that kept going even when i shut the lid. i powered off the computer and everything seems to be fine but would anyone happen to know what happened. i running windows 10 if that means anything.
Hey
So I want to RDP into my other windows 10 pc from my main for so i dont have to go across the house to access the other PC.
The Main PC IS able to RDP into a server 2008 r2 i have on the same network
The Network is all LAN under the same router
The server is only used for VMs so no AD is on the network
The windows 10 PC i am trying to connect to is actually a Bootcamp MacMini.
I have confirmed that on both PCs RDP is active and both are getting IP addresses and can PING EACHOTHER
Im stumped why i can't RDP into this Win10 on the mac mini...
All suggestions and comments are appreciated!
Thank you!
I apologize in advance for the long post and possible missing information. I'm on my phone using the Reddit app to post this. I originally posted this on r/buildapc
i7-3930k 3.2 ghz not overclocked Asrock x79 xtreme4 mobo 16 gb corsair vengeance ddr3 ram (2 sticks) Gigabyte extreme gaming gtx 1070 8 gb Windows 10 pro Corsair rm750i power supply
My computer is about 5 years old and was running fine this morning when it shut off on me while playing a game. First thought it was a power outage but my monitors were still on. After resetting my surge protector, I tried turning my computer on again but I would see the led light and fans turn on for a second before it shut off again. After trying a couple more times and getting the same result, it ended up in a loop where it would just keep turning itself on and off again until I flipped the power supply switch off.
I unplugged everything and opened her up. I blew out what dust I could. I checked the capacitors to see if any of them had distended and then I checked all power and connection cables to see if anything was loose. Same issue. I unplugged everything, the video card and hard drives leaving only the fan cables. Reconnected the power supply, which is only a couple months old, back to the mobo but still got the same issue. Used the cmos reset button to no avail. After some phone googling, I realized I had forgotten to reseat the RAM as well. Reseating had the same result. My mobo has 4 slots, 2 on either side of my processor. They were currently on the right side so I removed both of them and moved just one to the left side. At this point there is nothing connected to the mobo but the power supply and one 8 gb stick of RAM. I used the mobo power switch and the computer stayed on and only gave a debug message of d6, which means it could not detect a video card, which was correct. Turned off my computer and moved the same RAM to the second slot on the left side. Still turning on fine. I added my second RAM to the remaining slot on the left side and still everything seemed good.
I started connecting everything back, testing it in between adding a component back and still everything seemed good. Was starting to think I just needed to move my RAM. I installed my video card last and tested again. It stayed on but still displayed the same dr. debug message of d6, but thought it might be because I currently didn't have my card connected to a monitor. My video card is also only a few months old.
I closed her up and connected all my usb and monitor back but though it stayed on the monitor didn't get a signal. Mobo was still giving me the same message so I reset the cmos again but still no signal. I unplugged my monitor and usb and went to install my old video card, a gigabyte r9 290 4 gb, that I never had problems with. After I removed my 1070, I decided to check first that my computer would still at least stay on with just RAM and my hdds connected, but now I'm back to square one where it won't stay on or loops again. I've moved each RAM to each slot with same results.
I went and got a cx750m power supply from best buy just to see if my power supply had failed but I'm still getting the same results. Wishing I had bought a new cmos battery and extra RAM to check those as well but I'm starting to think my mobo might finally have given out since moving my RAM helped only a little. I'm really hoping it's not the mobo though and would appreciate any advice on what else I might be able to do. IF you guys think it's my mobo, I wanted to know if it's worth getting another lga2011 socket mobo since I don't want to buy a lot of new things when my computer was running great until this morning. I saw newegg has an x99 mobo that I assume would still fit my processor and would mean I don't need to reinstall everything I have but that was 200 bucks, something I don't want to have to spend but I assume would still be cheaper than getting a new processor and mobo.
Thanks in advance.
After being forced to update to the windows 10 creators update, I've been having issues while playing games. My PC will flash and show solid coloured screens with lines, and eventually crash my PC.
I've been trying received the BSOD once and forced to shut down. The error was a windows stop code memory management.
The graphics drivers are up to date. I have an r9 270x.
Everything ran fine before. The problems arose after the update. I reset the computer to before the update and everything ran fine then too. Now that it made me update again the problems are coming back.
I'm having trouble finding fixes that aren't just, make sure driver is up to date. Pllleeeease help
Every time my computer boots windows tries to login into a user account that, near as I can tell, doesn't exist, at least not locally anyhow. Using command prompt and the command "net user" yields only my account plus the Default Account, Administrator, and Guest accounts. This mystery account is also not visible in any settings menu. What the hell is going on? My best guess is that it's whats left over from a Microsoft account I used to use before I switched to a local one and closed my account, not just on the machine like actually closed it with Microsoft. I solved this before by setting up my local account to not have a password but now I want to do some remote stuff and a password is needed for that. I should also add that if I sign out of my account the mystery account is not visible on the login page
So the windows volume mixer allows you to adjust the volume of individual programs, but it is often a pain to access and sometimes I have to alt-tab out of full screen applications which throws everything off. Is there any free software out there that allows adjusting program volume directly through macros or overlays? Google doesn't seem to be revealing many options for me.
Why in my playback deviced do i have Realtek Digital Output even though nothing is connected to it ?
I have my headset, my monitor, and this which doesn't do anything.
Shouldn't it show as disconnected ?
Not sure if I am making a big deal out of nothing, but just to be extra careful I thought I'd post this here.
Busted the LCD on my phone yesterday, so I took it into a local phone repair shop in town. They did a pretty good job fixing it, but since receiving it back I've noticed something very suspicious.
I went into my iMessages and noticed a suspicious message in my inbox.
Before I get any further, I should mention: I do not view porn on this device, and generally have a firewall and ad blocker running while surfing the web.
Has anybody seen anything like this before? I thought maybe this was part of some process to make sure the phone was working...? But, still seems really shady to me.
When you click the link in the first message sent (which as I type that out realize was probably not a good idea) it took me to safari, which then auto-loaded iMusic and then this screen.
As far as the second and third message, in the earlier link you'll see one image where the text is blurred out, and the next where the image is revealed.
Anyway, if this is something suspicious, what is my next course of action?
I know a little bit about these kinds of things but this is a little out of my wheelhouse.
Suggestions?
Not sure if this belongs here, but I'm very desperate right now.
So I wanted to copy some old VHS C tapes to DVD to preserve them. So I put the tape into a VHS adapter and watch the tape to the end, everything's good. So then I put a blank DVD R into my Samsung DVD-VR357 player while the tape was rewinded in the VCR part. Then I hit the "Copy to DVD" button on my remote, and the red record button came on. I walk away for a while, but when I came back, the tape has been ejected. I think "Okay! It's done!" But when I put the DVD in my computer, it says it's blank! Now I'm a little weirded out, so I go play the VHS tape and my heart sinks. It's entire static.
Did I ruin the the tape??? I checked the manual (page 63) and I did the exact steps necessary for a direct copy to DVD.
Can anyone see something I might have done wrong? I know for certain I pressed the "copy to DVD" button. I just can't figure it out and any help would be appreciated
Hi all,
First off, I appreciate any and all help you might be able to provide...
My system, that has been absolutely bullet proof up until last night, basically crapped out after plugging in my Oculus Rift to my HDMI port on my PC and has been unable to boot into Windows and now, unable to even boot into the BIOS.
I'm at a loss and have done an extensive amount of googling and combing through forums and still can't figure out what's going on. My current system is as follows:
I initially was able to get PC to attempt to boot into Windows but then got the error message that "startup repair couldn't repair your pc". Upon reboot I started getting an error code of 62 (could have been b2) which related to the GPU. Assuming the GPU was fried I removed it and used my onboard graphics. This didn't fix the issue and was starting to get hung up on codes of A9, A2, A6, 99, b6, and probably a couple others I didn't write down.
Some times I was able to boot into BIOS, sometimes I wasn't. Tried repairing Windows and it would fail every time. I've tested removing all but one stick of ram (even swapped positions & sticks), unplugged all extraneous drives and peripherals, tried booting with no SSD or HDD, cleared CMOS, flashed BIOS, removed CMOS battery... all to no avail.
I'm now at the point where each attempt at booting up now only gives me an error code 32 (CPU PCI Initialization) or error code 15 (Pre Memory North Bridge) and continually shuts own before I can even get into the BIOS. Every once in a while I get a different code and can finally get into BIOS but when I try to load defaults and reboot I get the Windows error and have to reboot and get the same 32 or 15 error again.
Is my mobo toast? Does this sound like a CPU issue? I'm at a total loss and have reached the limits of my knowledge base and skill level.
Thanks again for any help and sorry for the long post.
Cheers!
Windows 10
GTX 1060 6GB
Ryzen 1700x
16GB Ram
MSI X370 SLI PLUS
After a while of use (1-4 hours), my task bar and network settings will freeze up. My start button doesn't work, but a window pops up for a second when I click it, then disappears. I can still switch between programs in the task bar though. I have an ethernet connection and mobile hotspot running to give the rest of my devices WiFi. (Only my phone and Apple TV which isn't connected 99% of the time.)
When I started using ethernet for internet. (Can't use WiFi as the signal from the router doesn't reach.)
Yes
6/12/17
Yes
It's mostly spontaneous, but use the computer for a little while, then click the network settings icon in the task bar. The window pops up but just with an airplane mode icon to click, the other icons have disappeared. When you click off of that it freezes the task bar.
Killing explorer, which works but then my network icon disappears. I can't access the network settings in the windows settings while this happens either.
I took the plugs out of my SSD to try and fix a different problem (infinite automatic repair/diagnosing PC loop) because I read online about the wires possibly coming loose and now that I took out the SATA cable and cable connected to the motherboard it does not boot properly.
After turning it on, my motherboard displays and then a text reading "MBR Error 1 Press any key to boot from floppy..."
I do have a work around but it is a nuisance, when it boots I press f12 to go to my BIOS and click the correct boot SSD which then in turn takes me back to the infinite loops of repairing/diagnosing.
I tried to make my SSD my primary boot device through the BIOS but there is no option for it, there are only 2 options (SATA SM: ... and SATA PM: ...) in which neither are my SSD.
Ideally I would like to fix both problems, the SSD booting properly and the infinite loop, but I would not mind just having the infinite loop fixed so I could actually use my PC just by picking my SSD after each boot up, which is only a small nuisance.
The PC worked fine yesterday after returning from a trip but then blue screened after a few hours.
Specs:
-i7-3770k
-GTX 970
-16gb DDR3 RAM
-Gigabyte GA-H61M-S2PV(motherboard)
-ADATA 120GB S510 SSD (OS on this)
-OCZ 120GB ARC 100 SSD
-WD 2.0TB HDD
So I built myself a computer earlier this year, and it's developed the problem of freezing up about 5-10 times a day. Here are some of my specs:
Windows 10 intel Core i5 6600k 16GB Ram EVGA 1080ti Corsair CXM 550w power supply
You can see my full build here: http://ift.tt/2vi9TBp
I use the computer for audio production, gaming, and when it's not doing one of those two things, it's mining cryptocurrency. At first it used to freeze about once a week. Since I installed the 1080ti and started gaming and mining the crashes have become much more frequent. It seems particularly fond of crashing when I'm gaming or mining. All my drivers are up to date. Sometimes I get the BSOD with a DPC_Watchdog_Violation error, which is also frozen at 0%, other times it just stays frozen on whatever screen I was on when it died. I've updated my chipset driver, which is the most common fix I see listed for this sort of thing. Let me know what you guys think the problem could be, I'm wondering if it's something hardware related. I know my power supply is on the small side for the rig I have, but I've still got about 100w of headroom on it. Thanks!
Am I missing something to get Wolfenstein the New Order to not run like dog shit?
I've been hunting down various fixes for ages, and none of them seem to work, or seem to make the game run at an even lower FPS than usual. I have the game on the absolute lowest settings, and I can occasionally see a spike into the 45 FPS range.
I have an i5 4690, 16Gb DDR3 RAM, an R9 390 at base clock 8Gb, and the game is located on a 7200 RPM HDD.
Any suggestions, or am I screwed?
To preface, I have already posted this in /r/buildapc, but I am not sure where this post belongs.
Yes, I am an idiot for not looking closer at the reviews (to be totally truthful, I did not order the parts and am assisting my brother with assembling the parts he ordered), but generally speaking I don't usually pay much attention to the case of all things when I'm building a PC since the specs of it are generally not that big of a deal.
What can I do about this at this point? I am trying to talk to their customer service team, but so far they have pretty much ignored my concerns as I am sure they know very well that this product is a fire hazard and have dealt with this same issue hundreds or thousands of times. They have offered to replace my case with another identical one, but I want nothing to do with it at this point.
I've watched EVERY tutorial on the internet, and they all tell you to mess with steromix. What they don't tell you is what to plug you stuff in! I have my headphones plugged in the normal green speaker input. Now I want to have a speaker, so I plug it into the blue; line in. And it doesn't work at all.
I have windows 10 and when I am playing League using my headphones and they unplug it locks up the screen. Other programs work but the screen is locked on the frozen game screen. I don't know what to do, nor what the problem is.
Hi there guys.
Had a little problem with a new router we recently got given from our ISP. The model is the Technicolor MediaAccess TG589vac v2. It's a step above our last router which was kind of getting to the end of its shelf life - but there is one problem. This new router seems to struggle in handling VoIP packets correctly. For some reason the voice applications I've tried (Skype, Curse, Discord) will have people randomly cut out when speaking (although, apparently they can hear me).
My theory is that the router is struggling to process VoIP packets specifically which is leading to packet loss. I think the solution would be to pop into the QoS settings and set up some kind of ruleset to prioritize VoIP packets but I have no idea how to do this with the new router. The documentation is no help at all.
Additionally I've disabled all NAT Helpers available just to see if one of these was causing the interference but apparently this is not the case. Are these generally okay to have on? The only one I know which I directly correlates to voice chat programs is SIP but turning this on or off provides no difference in quality.
I had a 2013 ASUS gaming laptop, g750j I think, and the monitor would be black whenever I turned on the laptop all of a sudden. I originally thought the computer was working fine but the monitor somehow broke but upon connecting a TV to it I saw this was not the case. Rather than sending it to ASUS themselves to be repaired, I brought it to a computer repair place that said they would diagnose it for free and tell me how much it would cost to fix. In the process of "diagnosing it" they said it fell apart on them and is broken and I would need to buy a new computer somewhere because it would cost too much to fix. I was pretty pissed but know nothing so can't counter them. I find it hard to believe if I mailed the laptop to Asus themselves to be fixed they would have broke their own laptop. Thoughts?
Also if anyone has a recommendation for the cheapest gaming laptop at least equal in power to the one I had I would appreciate it
Hi all, My PC is very frequently randomly shutting down without warning (so no bluescreen or whatever), after that it automatically powers on again. When starting up I get the following screen (not good quality picture, but it doesn't say anything interesting anyways).
I have no clue why this is happening, but I tried the following things already: * Checked all cables for being loose or being in touch with something else. Nothing there.
Checked for overheating. My PC was really cool and silent, so shouldn't be the problem.
Checked for power supply issues. So I had this problem before where my PC would need 480 watts when I had a 500 watts power supply, so it tended to crash when playing high end games. The difference is that when that happened my PC wouldn't turn itself on again. Also it happens when doing nothing at all, so it should never exceed the 750watts from my power supply. (Current PC spec will be below)
PC was not connected directly to the wall, tried that still the shut down happened.
Used a virus and a malware scan, found nothing.
Took a look at the Reliability History. The only thing I found was "Windows unexpectedly stopped" (translated, don't know the exact message in English), it doesn't include any other info. There are no crashlogs either.
If anyone has any ideas of what the problem might be, please let me know. I build the PC myself and it ran perfect for 1.5 months (that's when I last changed parts).
Thanks in advance! (Edited the messed up format)
Specs:
Intel 7700K processor (with cooler master cooler)
MSI Nvidia gtx 770
Corsair vengeance 2x8GB DDR4
Cooler Master G750M
Asus Xonar DSX
MSI Z270 SLI PLUS motherboard
Sandisk 120GB SSD (windows installed on this one)
Seagate 2TB HDD
iOS
6s
No
2017/07/28
Yes
No
Hi all.
Last Friday my iPhone 6s was stolen, and yesterday I got it back, but locked.
So I connected it to my PC (Windows) and try to first update the software to don't lose anything, and then, after getting this annoying error, to restore it.
I tryed averything I could looking in the internet and the "more info" button you see when you get the error. Always the same...
Edit "host" file
Disable firewall and antivirus
Update iTunes and computer OS (Windows, in my case)
Try in another computer
Restart the process
Nothing worked. I am close in my notebook but the process does not end...
I found this "host" config in a video and got me closer but didn't work either:
So my uni has free wifi as many others do and just like every other corporation is against torrenting. But when they catch someone torrenting, they are able to display the file name that is being downloaded even if the .to file wasn't downloaded to that computer or even started. The minute a user turns off a vpn, they are greeted with a screen telling them which files they are torrenting. Can anyone give an explanation of this or point me in the right direction? I no longer torrent often, but am more concerned about privacy.
I've been spending many hours this morning trying to change the default text format settings in Outlook.
I created a macro for this, as laid out here.
To use the macro and keep security settings tight I need to digitally sign it. I made my own certificate using selfcert.exe and signed my macro with it.
Before Outlook can trust the macro I need to add my certificate in Trusted Root Certification Authorities. The problem is that the import wizard asks for a location of the certificate, but I don't know how to find it. How is anyone supposed to use this wizard? Where is my certificate stored?
Windows 7
i7 4790k Processor
Asrock z97 Extreme4 motherboard
16 GB Ram (G. Skillz Ripjaw X series, 2x 8GB sticks)
2x Asus Strix GTX 970 graphics cards
Asus ROG Swift Pg278Q 2560x1440p 144hz G-sync monitor
(All air-cooled)
N/A
Hey Reddit, having a bit of a problem with my desktop, was hoping someone here could help me. So I was cleaning the dust out of my tower and off my screen yesterday, and reseated my graphics cards after cleaning the fans and backplates, as well as elsewhere within the case. Now when I turn on my computer, it sounds like it normally does as it powers up, the cards appear to be seated correctly in their slots and their indicator lights show that they are correctly powered, and their fans spin up briefly on startup as they normally do, but I get no signal to my monitor. my monitor also powers up correctly after cleaning (light damp-wipe), but displays no boot image from the tower. I am unable to access the bios or any other function, though the computer appears to be running normally. Before cleaning, I was able to use my desktop without issue, as usual.
Yesterday
No
all components barring the monitor and a second 970 card in late 2014, the monitor and secone 970 were purchased in august of 2015
Yes
Reseating the graphics cards seemed to cause the problem, though I have reseated them previously without issue. I built my tower with a friend, I purchased the components and he assembled it for me, so I'm not to familiar with the actual wiring within the tower, but nothing seems to be disconnected from what I can see. I used to move out of state for university, and would ship my desktop, taking my video cards in my carry-on and re-installing them upon arrival. I did this for several years without incident, but have not reseated the cards for any reason for around a year, as my desktop has not moved.
So far to fix the issue I've tried to
-reseat the cards, several more times. The cards appear to power on correctly, along with the motherboard, but no image is displayed on the monitor. After leaving everything re-assembled overnight, I now get a "no signal" notification from my monitor, whereas before it simply powered on without displaying anything. Progress?
-plug the monitor into the motherboard rather than either graphics card. In the past, this has caused similar symptoms (no signal/image to monitor) as what I have now, as I'm not sure that I have any onboard graphics apart from my VGA cards. Plugging the monitor into the graphics cards fixed this issue previously, but no longer.
-plugging the monitor into each of my cards individually, with only one installed at a time, at the same time, in pretty much any combination I can concieve. The tower and monitor both appear to power up appropriately, but no image is displayed no matter the combination used.
-gently blowing into the card slots to remove any dust or detritus, then reseating the cards. Again, no result.
-I'm aware of an issue that affects many other purchasers of my motherboard the Asrock Z97 Extreme4, where after being completely shut down it will refuse to power on again due to a faulty battery, but this has not been an issue in the past and the board appears to power on correctly, all fans on connected devices spin and the board lights up, though it has been 3 years since I assembled this PC and have not replaced the battery in that time.
