I have an Archer C7. I have a PC connected to it via PC and 7 android phones connected via 2.4 GHz. About once a day, sometimes as long as once in two days, the wireless connection seems to just die. All android phones simultaneously lose connection and cannot "see" the network in the network browser. Power-cycling the router fixes it for a day or so. The ethernet connection does not have any issues.
Where should I start?
I own a Gigabyte p55 laptop, and the past few months I have had charging issues. The laptop would randomly stop charging for about a second, then resume charging. This happened almost exclusively while gaming, but lower settings to the minimum didn't work, so I assumed it was a power issue inside of my laptop. Additionally I have had the "plugged in not charging" issues (Windows 10). I used my brothers charger because he has the same laptop and that didn't solve anything. I then opened up my laptop, and sure enough one if the cables were fried on the end. Here is pics http://ift.tt/2CnEyQV
I've searched everywhere for this part online and with no solution. What can I do? I'm a broke college student so going to a repair shop is my last option. These cables for other laptops are less than 10 dollars online, but I can't find mine. Would another brands cables work? Any and all advice is appreciated. P.S. for the "plugged in not charging" issue I've done other troubleshooting like updating drivers.
I live in a dormitory with an Internet usage limit of 80GB per month. Not only is it little, 4 months ago my internet suddenly just went away, because nearly everytime my PC is on it's downloading 12,4GB (always excatly this amount) of data.
I don't no where from, neither where to, but it's just gone from my data plan.
Our provider says it's not their fault, so I'm trying to fix it on my own for a long time now.
Anybody an idea what is happening?
I already set my PC in Wi-Fi to "metered connection" although I'm using LAN.
I already turned off the peer to peer in the update settings.
I already defered updates. (not sure yet if it's working or not)
Thanks in advance :)
Edit: Speccy: http://ift.tt/2C4cGhi
I recently made a post on a similar topic, but an update to the situation meant I have decided to create this post.
Okay so, a few months back my PC started playing up, it would restart only when playing games (at the time I only really played Rainbow Six, but it wasn't just that). Took it to the repair place and they have replaced the PSU and fitted a temporary CPU Cooler, it has worked fine since 14th December, until now. I looked at the temps are when playing they sky rocket, my CPU temperature (FX 8320) will go from 30 to 55/65 celcius, and my "TMPIN2" will go up in the 80's. I thought it was overheating, makes sense since the temporary cooler is crap and my old one (that broke) was a liquid cooler. Just now, whilst on discord talking to friends, it restarted. I wasn't looking at the temps but I am almost 100% sure it wasn't an overheat. Discord isn't intensive at all, so that makes sense. Could the cooler be causing it to restart and I should wait for my actual cooler to be fitted? I also have a house fan next to my PC.
Thankyou.
Specs~
AMD FX8320 AMD R9 270x Ga-78lmt
I'm not an AMD fanboy I bought it pre-built at the time I knew nothing about computers.
The PSU is brand new, it has been working fine since December 14th (today is January 1st 2018, lovely way to kick of the year).
I can use my PC, it loads up fine.
Error code: Kernel Power 41
HWMonitor Readings: http://ift.tt/2EoCHJy
Edit: Added HWMonitor readings
I'm watching NHL streams off reddit from my PC to my HDTV connected by HDMI. Up until about 2 hours ago everything had worked fine all season. Now I'm getting lag. It doesn't buffer it just goes in slow motion for a few seconds. Catches up and then keeps doing it . If I watch in a windowed screen it does it less. As soon as I go full screen on the TV it starts again. I'm on game mode on my TV, only thing I have done in the last week is update Windows 10. Any suggestions. Audio? Video?
Trying to scan some old drawings, and every time VueScan gives a thin line (5 pixels wide) down the middle of the image. The line is exactly in the middle, not slightly to one side, exactly in the middle by the pixel. It looks like someone took a ruler and pencil and drew a line down the middle of all the pictures. It really ruins them.
I scanned some in a couple of weeks ago and they were fine, and neither the scanner or VueScan have been touched since so I don't understand.
Every result on Google is just about cleaning all the specs off, I did it anyway even though I didn't think this was the problem, and it made no difference.
My scanner (Epson Perfection 1250) isn't compatible with my OS (Windows 8.1) which is why I have to use VueScan. I have a spare XP computer which can use it properly, and the line isn't there which makes me thing it's some setting in VueScan, however the colour and contrast is all off on XP and I can't make sense of any of their settings to correct it so I'd rather just use VueScan on my own computer.
Anybody know?
hi just looking for the best freeware mouse and keyboard recording macro tool, the ones ive found are all decent like ghost mouse but they tend to not allow more then 2/3 loops before they ask for a payment.
by: /u/cuddlychops06 for /r/techsupport // Updated: September20th, 2017.
Changelog: 9/20/17 - Updated some screenshots, removed JRT recommendation - see below
If you suspect you are infected with Crypto malware (Cryptowall, Cryptolocker, TeslaCrypt, etc) DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.
Purpose & Scope of this Guide:
This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots. If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large scale. However, there will be times that this guide fails in removing malware. If that is the case, please make a post for further assistance, stating that this guide was unsuccessful. It is recommended to only accept advice from a “Trusted” technician. I am writing this guide in layman’s terms so that most people will be able to understand it with ease.
Disclaimer:
The following instructions are recommendations only. You take full responsibility for any steps you choose to perform on your computer. While the following recommendations are performed without issue on countless machines, there is always a risk of damaging your Operating System or experiencing data loss on any machine. It is solely YOUR responsibility to save all work and back up any and all important data on your system before proceeding. Also note that once a computer has been compromised with malware, it should not be considered clean until a complete reformat has taken place.
Malware Remediation Steps:
Before proceeding, go into your browser’s extensions and remove all suspicious items. Also go into your browser’s settings and remove any default search providers and unusual homepages. If you are unsure how to do this, proceed to Step 1.
Download and run the following tools in this order. Run all tools unless otherwise instructed. All tools should be run in Normal Mode (not Safe Mode) unless you are unable to boot Normal Mode, or the scans fail in Normal Mode. All tools must be run under an Administrator account. Do not remove any tool-generated logs in the event a helper needs you to post them to further assist you.
1) Run rkill.com. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to finish. Do not reboot when done.
Kills running malicious processes
Removes policies in the registry that prevent normal OS operation
Repairs file extension hijacks
2) Download an updated copy Malwarebytes 3.0. Turn on the “Scan for Rootkits” option. Then, run a “Scan”
3) Run Malwarebytes ADWCleaner using the “Scan” option.
NOTE: It is no longer necessary to run JRT. The JRT definitions have been rolled into ADWCleaner by Malwarebytes. JRT no longer provides additional benefit.
Optional, Advanced Step (only run if previous tools fail to solve problem):
4) Run Sophos HitmanPro
HitmanPro is a phenomenal "second-opinion" malware scanner.
Please note: If malware has prohibited you from browsing the web or downloading files, you can try running the NetAdapter Repair Tool with all options checked which will attempt to restore your internet connection & default browser settings. You may have to download these tools on another computer and move them to a flash drive that you can plug into the infected machine.
Have adware or spyware on your Mac?
Try Malwarebytes Anti-Malware for Mac (formerly Adware Medic). Please make a post if it is unsuccessful.
If you have run all of the above tools successfully, you should be malware-free. If you are still experiencing problems, please make a post in /r/techsupport for further assistance.
Follow-up Steps (highly recommended):
What is malware?
Malware is an umbrella term used to refer to a variety of forms of hostile or intrusive software, including computer viruses, worms, trojan horses, ransomware, spyware, adware, scareware, and other malicious programs. It can take the form of executable code, scripts, active content, and other software. [Source: Wikipedia.com]
How did I get infected?
It is difficult to track down the source of an infection. Most infections are actually given permission to run unknowingly by the user. It is recommended to keep User Account Control turned on and never give access to something you do not trust or did not open. Many other infections come via exploits in your browser or browser plug-ins on websites you visit. Always be very careful what you install. Make sure you trust the source implicitly. When downloading programs, always use the publisher’s website directly.
How to prevent future infections:
Be very careful what you download and install. Keep programs like Java & Flash up-to-date, but do so using their official websites or Ninite installers. Use Unchecky to prevent accidental installation of adware & spyware during product installations. Make sure Windows is kept up-to-date as well. Many Windows updates patch exploits and vulnerabilities in your operating system. Most infections are active because the user has unknowingly given it Administrative permission to install and run. The first line of defense starts with you.
The following tools will aide you in keeping your computer clean:
Free Anti-Virus Suggestions:
Helpful Tools:
So, I've been having issues with my GPU drivers causing my laptop to blue screen. I was able to get in safe mode and uninstall the drivers, which solved the issue. I went to reset the pc with the recovery option on the laptop, hoping to resolve the issue and allow me to use the dedicated GPU. Upon resetting the pc and reinstalling windows, the laptop is in a BSOD loop with error message: THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER.
I downloaded the .iso file to attempt a full reinstall of windows, but I can't use my function keys to get into the boot options screen to boot from the USB drive. Is there any workaround for this?
So basically whenever I turn on my laptop I'm playing a lottery, sometimes it'll have no problem connecting to the internet (I'm using wifi) but when the times I do try to connect and I'm unable to, I can't do much, even if I troubleshoot and it fixes, next time I restart laptop I get a blue screen of death, says DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION but in the dmp it's just blank. The filename that causes the error is hal.dll
Anyone have a solution? Unsure how to make it so my wifi always works, rather than 50/50 if it does work or not on startup
*So when I'm unable to connect, its the regular unable to connect to any wifi for going on any browser, the little dinosaur pops up for chrome, but on Performance on task manager it shows I'm connected
Also I'm using a guest login on my windows 8 laptop, would prefer not to swap over to admin account
I am about 10 hours into playing AC:O on Windows 10 and all of a sudden my screen started flickering. The GPU is a GTX 1060 and is only a couple of weeks old. I tried uninstalling my graphics driver and reinstalling it but this did not affect the problem. I also tried doing a system restore and it did not help. What else can I try? How can I tell if it's a hardware issue, since it doesn't seem to be a software issue?
Here is a video link of the skipping. I can take more videos if it would help.
I have a 4 TB Seagate External Hard drive. Is there a way I can make it so whenever it is clicked on to be opened, a password would have to be entered?
I have a Xbox one but I also stream on it and the ping on the stream reaches 200 ms. I need a internet booster that can bring that very low to at least 30. I also have a question if a internet booster has a Ethernet cable that it needs to connect to does it connect to the device or the internet router (please recommend me a internet booster that doesn't need to connect to the router).
I don't know what the cause of this is and I've tried some fixes such as ipconfig /release then renew and it fixes the problem but I was wondering if there was any way to stop the problem from occurring in the first place. Prevention is better than cure.
Thanks!
I have received over 12,000 spam emails to my Yahoo! account in the past 12 hours. They are coming from different IP addresses, but all are in the form FROM: [random number]@qq.com, and all contain Chinese characters. I have managed to port them directly to my Trash folder, but I am still having to check each one to make sure that they're not trying to sneak something nefarious such as a request to bypass 2fa in any of them.
Complaints to Yahoo! and the abuse authorities for 223.153.97.49 have produced no results. Any suggestions how I can get this spamflood to stop?
Long story short I had to go away for a few months and before I left I had just finished building a beautiful Ryzen rig and had everything functioning properly.
I come back, put my setup back together on my desk only to find red lights on the MOBO.
Okay, it's only the CPU light that is atleast a good sign , right ? WRONG.
Turns out yes the CPU was damaged (bent pins) so I spent the last of my monry on a brand new Ryzen 5 1600. It was a bittersweet moment as my previous one was a 1500X so I was essentially getting myself an upgrade , but after safely installing the CPU ALL fucking lights turn on EXCEPT for the CPU.
What the FUCK HAPPENED IN THAT STORAGE ROOM? These are all goddamn new parts. Every last part is new except the power supply which didn't need upgrading cuz the one I had before was way OP and still is for this build
Yes, I took everything apart and put it back together, yes I cleared CMOS.
Pictures: http://ift.tt/2CiaHdt
I figured this out, but wanted to post it here so in case someone else has the same issue. I have an Asus z370-i gaming mobo with an intel 8700k cpu. I turned it on this morning, and there was no video on the monitor. When I popped the side panel, I saw that the BOOT LED on the mobo was green. That was odd, since there are 2 valid bootable drives in the box. Tried reseating everything, also cleared the BIOS via jumper, no luck. Finally, I pulled the GPU out entirely and plugged my monitor in via HDMI to the mobo, and it booted up. I went into the BIOS and reset to default, then saved and shut it down. Plugged the GPU back in and unplugged the hdmi, and everything was back to normal.
I have a feeling my parents are watching my network traffic and find this a huge breach of my privacy. How can I make sure they don't see the websites I visit. (Mainly on android)
I am having a hard time coming up with a solution for my problem. I am working on a project where I am making an intranet for a remote camp. This intranet provides a set of services through an app I have written in Node. Right now I am using DHCP reservation to make sure that the device always answers on a specific IP address. What I would like to do - instead of telling users to type an IP address in their browser - is have users be able to type in something like remote.somewebsite.com into the browser while connected to this wifi network and be brought to my app. I am technically capable but the networking stuff is outside of my wheelhouse and I not sure where to start with this. All my research so far points to "hacking tools" but I am hoping I can configure this on the router and save myself having to go down a rabbit hole that is secondary to my main objective - I am presenting my remote solution at a trade show at the end of February and have lots of software to write still. Any suggestions about how I could approach solving this problem would be greatly appreciated. And yes this is the first post on a new Reddit account... someone was able to link my old username to my real-world identity and I nuked it #truestory
Thanks for any input!
Edit: spelling correction
Windows 10
MSI M3 Gaming MoboGTX 970i7 6700kCorsair 16gbEVGA G2 650w
Installed a Samsung 960 EVO NVMe m.2 SSD I have 2 other WD 300gb HDD that are not being recognized now.My other Samsung EVO 850 is still working properly.
After installing m.2 ssd
Yes
12/25/17
Yes
If i remove m.2 ssd the other HDDs work fine but I cannot get all my drives to work at the same time.
Searched BIOS for anything related; seen m.2 genie which wanted me to boot in raid, tried that and computer would not boot at all. had to turn off m.2 genie and everything works fine other than my regular HDDs not being recognized.
I get unreasonably angry every single time, I want to keep this type of notification for new programs but when it's always the same program every time it gets really irritating.
So on my desktop I used to play a lot of games, and I could usually run games like Skyrim, rainbow six siege, etc. at ultra high, but I stopped playing for about 5 weeks when I came back to it, I could barely run any game on low settings. Anybody have any idea on what’s gone wrong? I’ve had the pc for about 2,5 years at this point. Sorry if this is all very vague, not really a tech guru, as you can tell.
I’m grateful for any help that you’ll provide.
Here is what it looked like. I updated her drivers and it did nothing. Think this is a graphics card?
DownThemAll! doesn't work with the latest version of Firefox. Is there another extension like it that I could use?
Thank you for your help.
If I want to split an RG6 (coaxial) signal from an omnidirectional HD antenna to five rooms (in other words five TVs) would I need to be buying a high quality amp/splitter or would I need to be buying a better antenna? Can anyone make some suggestions as to what equipment I should use? Thanks.
Some examples:
PCT MA28PN RF Amplifier Passive Return CATV Amp 8-Ports
BAMF 8-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA 5-2300MHz
I'm not sure this is the right place but I think you guys will give me the best answers:
In summary furnace failed, house radiators are frozen.
Is there any problem with turning on a desktop in sub zero temperatures and if no how intensive should I be running it? It's been sitting sub zero for several days now.
The goal is to use it as a heater (along with everything else I can get) but I don't want to risk any damage to the components.
So good idea or bad idea? It kicks out a ton of heat under normal conditions.
About three days ago I updated windows 10 on my lenovo yoga 12. Everything appeared to go smoothly, and everything worked fine.
Then, about two days ago, when resuming from sleep for the first time since the update, Windows 10 fails to resume from sleep, and if I attempt to start it from the menu windows will then BSOD and get stuck in a boot loop. The computer loads just fine if I do a cold boot.
The first time this happened I didn't think much of it, I had put it to sleep while running a very old and highly unstable program, so I thought that probably caused the BSOD.
The second time this happened, I restarted the machine right away (never getting a "true" BSOD). Everything still works but now my laptop will run the fans even at relatively cool CPU temps (it appears to like turning on the fans at around 30 degrees Celsius), which it never used to do.
I have since started avoiding putting the computer to sleep while I try and fix the problem, but I'm at my wit's end. I've used Lenovo's automatic driver update tool to no avail as well as manually installing a few other relevant drivers they provided. A system restore has failed to fix either issue as well.
I have a Windows 10 computer with two profiles--One for work, one for everything else. Recently, I'll sign into one and after I'm done, I'll go to sign off / shut down. When I do, I get the error that other users are logged in, and I discover that the "other" profile (the opposite of whichever one I actually signed into) is indeed signed on. I have witnessed this on both profiles. Both profiles have passwords. I am at a loss, but it certainly doesn't seem good. This is the first time I ever tried to Google a tech question and couldn't even find it discussed. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
I have done minimal troubleshooting because I've never encountered anything remotely similar. I sign out of profile x and sign into profile y, sign out of it, and return to profile x. When I do, sometimes profile y is signed in again, sometimes not. No pattern--doesn't happen every login, but when it does, it's difficult to "get rid of."
Overnight, my 3-year-old computer (self-built) doesn't "start". No USB connections work (i.e no light on the keyboard, no charging various things), nor do the monitors detect the computer - they'll go into powersaving mode once turned on and say there's no connection (both HDMI and VGA).
When turned on, the fans start and everything sounds normal, but the display is blank and no USB connections work. There is a blue light on the front of my case that normally remains on when the computer is on, this light is blinking.
I've tested both monitors and all USB devices - they work, so I think it's fairly obvious that this is a mobo/psu failure (with a slight possibility of CPU). There is no GPU in this machine as it was used primarily for light photo editing and work.
I've unseated the RAM, taken a can of compressed air to the computer to remove dust, etc, to no avail. I've also disconnected the computer from power and held the power button for 1 minute (was a suggestion I've read when googling).
Is there any way I can test to see if this is the PSU or the mobo? I could not detect any obvious issues with the mobo (eg. corrosion). I have no other computer with which I can test each component on.
I don't think this is an issue with the SSD, as that wouldn't explain the USB connection issues and the computer would still boot into bios if it were the SSD. Speaking of which, I have a laptop I now need to make my primary computer, can I just buy a SATA to USB connection to transfer any programs I need over from the old SSD (mx300)?
When Windows 10 rolled out we had a machine auto update and screw up everything on that machine. We tried turning down / off Windows update on our point of sale machines, but it was very insistent. We ended up using a utility to neuter Windows update.
Now it's 2.5 years later, our POS software and printers are playing nice with win10 and id like to update these machines before the free upgrade goes away. Unfortunately, the utility corrupted some of the win update files and the upgraded is failing. I'll be back to edit with the specific error code, but any help would be appreciated.
I am struggling with a ridiculously high amount of committed memory. I have a limit of 74 GB committed memory, out of which 65 are committed after some time of running the computer. Even when I close most of the processes, it doesn't drop in any significant way. The Process tab is set to show processes from all users and the amount of committed memory of the active processes doesn't even come close to the Commit (GB) number. I would say it barely exceeds 4 GB.
Specs: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit SP1 i7-3930k, 64 GB RAM, GTX 1070 GPU
This typically happens after a while of running the computer and using a wide variety of programs. Even when I close those programs, the memory is still in use/committed and not accounted for by the "Commit" column of any process in Task Manager.
I don't understand what is happening here at all and this forces me to restart my computer rather regularly, which is annoying. I searched many articles about this, but basically all of them say that I should check the commit-column in Task Manager, which shows a handful of processes, the highest one taking maybe 300 MB (I did make sure to active the display of processes from all users with that Admin-icon). This is ridiculous.
If anyone can point me in the right direction, that will be much appreciated.
Hi guys, I'm running Windows 8.1 and some days ago my pc got infected by Mail.ru adware. I followed a removal guide found on a support website and it worked fine. My pc now is working as usual except for a cmd prompt randomly opening regarding a weird download. I really couldn't find anything, I scanned my pc with Windows Defender, Malwarebytes, HitmanPro, Rkill and ADWCleaner, but this cmd prompt is still popping out once in a while. Have you ever seen anything similar?
All settings are at default, ram is at 1.2V 2133, only 1 stick is in right now since at first I thought it might be a Ram issue so I checked all sticks in all 4 slots and the problem persists with all sticks in all slots. I had a slight OC on the CPU (4.4GHz) for a while but didn't need the extra power so set it back to default about 6 months ago. I have never had an OC on the GPU since I have never needed it, only about 6 months old (I game at 60Hz 1440p usually while doing something else on another monitor). GPU drivers are up to date, all core temps and mosfet temps on the GPU are well within spec.
At this point I am thinking it's temperature related because if I take all of the panels off my tower it doesn't happen for much longer than if I leave the panels on an "hotbox" my components. Even when I do this the CPU and GPU temperatures never exceed 75C, I have repasted the CPU since it's been about 2 years since I put the paste on, hasn't helped. I'm guessing MOBO problems since XMP has never worked properly (figured it was a problem with quad channel ram), Ram has almost never hit 2400 unless I set it to 2333 and 103 BCLK, never with XMP on.
It always freezes and never BSOD, the only errors in event viewer at about registry problems (certain things not starting because they don't have administrative permissions), and Kernel Power from the hard shutdowns. When it freezes it always leaves behind an image (hence how I was able to get temperatures at the time of freeze, and it almost always gives terrible noise through my headphones).
The games I am having problems with at the moment (the only games I am playing actively) are Runescape 3 and Far Cry 4.
Hi r/techsupport ! My ROG laptop which I have been undervolting to -90C has been having this weird shutdown issue with XTU lately. Every so often XTU pops up saying "The connection to the service has been lost etc. etc and then it shuts down after a couple of seconds. Any idea what's causing this?
I'm not totally new to computers, but for the past ten years I've just been using laptops. The last desktop I had was from about 2004 and I did some customization and upgrades to it but the world has changed in the meantime.
I recently acquired a Dell Inspiron 3668. It's a fine multimedia desktop but I'd like to upgrade the memory and add a video card. Dell's website isn't very good for this particular model, and when I enter the service tag (HJDKQJ2) I get very little info. Can somebody tell me how I can go about adding 8GB of RAM and a decent (nothing too crazy) video card?
Thanks in advance!
I have a very annoying situation that kind of requires a specific answer so here goes.
I have a HP zbook mobile workstation that i saved from being recycled at work. problem being its a pro model which severely locks down the bios without password which IT will not give me.
Enter issue. even though it wont boot to usb as is, i managed to install win10 without much issue by reusing a previous hdd with the install already on it but screwed up by not doing win7-win10 for a digital license. I figured id install windows on the 2nd hdd but use the assistive loophole for my license.
well now i have 2 installs of windows 10 pro. one thats activated and one that isnt. seems weird the license doesnt carry over but the boot records (or whatever, heres my problem) reside on the unlicensed drive.
removing the unwanted drive also removes my ability to boot at all. so without bios access, can i repair the 2nd drive to boot on its own?
many thanks in advance.
I just got a mechanical keyboard (corsair k63) for Christmas, and it worked perfectly for about a week. One day the K button suddenly stopped working on my gaming PC. I plugged my mechanical keyboard into my laptop and the K button worked fine on that. I have he corsair software installed, but I think it has something to do with the drivers. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
I have an issue which has come out of nowhere. Yesterday I moved my PC around the house and all of a sudden my Sapphire 7950 GPU isn't being detected by the computer- not in device manager, not by AMD drivers and not in BIOS. I have tried everything- reseating and cleaning the connectors, changing cables, resetting CMOS on motherboard, reseating every other component, changing power supplies and applying new thermal paste after disassembly. I have narrowed the issue down to the GPU or motherboard, but my motherboard is showing no signs of trouble. The GPU fans spin at a low speed on boot as normal, but it just isn't detected by anything. Occasionally it would show after I uninstalled drivers but would soon disappear after a reboot. Is this a dead card? It's 4 years old but has been kept cool during its lifetime (70 celsius max). What can I do to fix this before I write it off? Thanks.
Specs-
Intel i5-3570
Sapphire 7950 Boost edition
8GB DDR3 RAM
ASUS H61M-K Motherboard
Corsair CX600 PSU
New to this subreddit, I hope I don't break any rules. I've tried Google and the search bar here and haven't seen a solution yet, so I apologize if this has been asked before.
I have a Dell Inspiron 5759 laptop that's only about a year old, set up at a desk with a second monitor. As you know, Windows 10 forces updates on you, which I find pretty obnoxious. After trying to delay the most recent update as long as possible, it snuck itself in and updated automatically. Since then, every time my computer goes to sleep it wakes up to a frozen static screen, like on a TV. Only from sleep, not startup. So I've had to hold the power button down and reboot to get out of this screen
The most common solution on google is to roll back the display driver. I have two on my Dell: AMD Radeon R5 M335 & Intel(R) HD Graphics 520. Neither of these can be rolled back, suggesting there is no previous version to fall back on.
I don't know what to try at this point. One solution would be to power down when I leave my desk, instead of closing my computer, but that gets annoying quickly and the frequent startups probably aren't that good for it(?).
Anyone who has any advice, I'd love to hear it. Thanks in advance!
I downloaded the BIOS firmware from ASUS website: http://ift.tt/2zTPnEJ
Now I unzipped it and there's lots of .exe files and no .cap file I can use to actually update my BIOS. Where can I find it, I'm on Ubuntu so I cannot run the .exe files
I am running windows 10 Pro version 10.0.16299.
"NvContainerWindowClass00000830" I am worried if this is malware or something of the sort. http://ift.tt/2zSO6hg
This pops up most of the time but sometimes does not. I have tried looking up the issue but nothing seems to come up to help me except something about NVIDIA softwares. I do have a GTX 1060 graphics card with some of their software installed (GeForce Experience/NVIDIA control panel) but have never had any issues such as this until now. I am just hoping one of you out there have encountered the same issue or know how to fix this. Any help/input is greatly appreciated, thanks.
So I've had this HDD for ~5 years and thought I'd buy a new one because this one is getting old etc.
The old one: http://ift.tt/2sYDQ8m
The new one: http://ift.tt/2zTk5ht
Now, the newer one has lower RPM speed and only a slightly higher Internal Data Rate and the exact same Data Transfer Rate, also bigger Cache size.
Do I understand it correctly that this is basically the same slow stuff that I had before?
I'll be using it for mostly storage and also some games and programs (I have an SSD for OS and favourite games).
Hi guys,
So basically if I turn my PC on and don't unplug/plug the headset into the ports each time it won't work. Any ideas?
Headset is Turtle Beach 150s.
Hello,
Is there another way to write this without using either 'in' or 'or'
select * from emp where hiredate in(2-jan-92,2-jan,93,2-jan-95)
I know this is a bit of a weird question but it was a bonus question in my class right now and I really believe there is no solution. No one solved it and the prof didn't either.
My mom's Toshiba laptop. Windows 10 Home Edition
Already checked/Tried:
Virus scanner is Windows Defender
It tries to auto-update multiple times a week. I also tried to block the update but that seems not to be possible. (I don’t care if I have to wait to the next big update, I do care about Windows making me wait multiple times a week to try for an update that fails every time)
Logfile: setuperr.log
Does anyone of you know how to tackle this problem?
title
Hey Guys, sorry if this doesn't belong here if I am breaking the subs rules I will remove it.
I tried to register my business on google business and even geo tagged it on google maps but the only type of verification option I see is via mail/postcard (I dont even know how this will work since I live in the middle of nowhere in Africa and i don't remember giving google my mailing adress) Can somebody help me so I can verify my business using my gmail account. I don't know if it matters or not but my business is a lawyering practice or firm. Thanks
I attempted to root my razer phone, stupid idea, long story short, i uninstalled magisks through their app, restarted and switched slots and there is no OS in either slot, and I for some reason can't flash another rom to it. Any advice would be great. Thanks
I was playing some Path of Exile when I noticed some glitchy things happening on my screens (use two monitors, both would flicker at the same time, hard to describe what I saw but it was like the images on screen would go on and off rapidly, with clear horizontal lines of this flickering going on. These events would last about 0.4 seconds and then everything would return to normal, until it would happen again about 30-60 seconds later. Hope someone somehow understands that...)
I didn't know what to make of it so I fiddled around with some of the other stuff I had running (browser tabs, steam open) and it seemed like it stopped. About an hour or so later, while just chatting with someone on steam (PoE still running) I just got an abrupt Black Screen, computer was still running, but I couldn't hear anything, ctrl alt del, alt tab, and all that stuff wasn't doing anything, so I let it sit for about 5 minutes before I decided to turn off the computer without a proper shut down.
When I went to reload it, I would see the initial loading screen logo and whatnot, but eventually my main monitor would just say, "no signal" and they would both just sit there black screened, and I just let it sit there for several minutes. I turned it off and tried again, and it happened again. This second time I after I let it sit there on the black screen for a while, the computer actually just powered off itself after a few minutes...
Thanks for any help ahead of time... This is a real bummer.
Hello, I'm sorry, but english isn't my first language and this is rather difficult to describe. Something keeps opening on my computer, as if I were to run a program. Wouldn't bother me much, but when I'm playing something, it minimizes the game. I'm on Windows 7.
How can I figure out what it is?
Good morning,
I've had this problem recently, where at some point my phone would not receive any data even though I have all 5 bars of connection. This happens with both of my routers (one of them a mini rounter).
When I'm scolling down facebook everything would eventually stop loading and an "!" would show up next to the WIFI symbol. Disabling Wifi and enabling it again will fix that. The same thing sometimes happens on my laptop.
I do have admin access to the router settings. I also reset the router already, which did nothing really. If you have any further questions to my system/phone/router, go ahead.
I appreciate any kind of help, thank you
I was having problems with my PC that had funtioned without issue for most of the day. Namely, games kept crashing (3 different ones) and then the whole thing sort of crapped itself after a restart. Booted it back up, BIOs screen showed the prepairing repair message, and then it moves to a black screen with just a cursor. Keyboard, mouse, and monitor seem to work fine. (Intel i5, GTX 770, older MSI motherboard; complete specs are on the computer that currently won't boot up) Any ideas what might be wrong? A friend suggested that it might be win 10 issue.
Hey! I have Android S7(Regular) and I don't know when this started, but now I can see my battery burned into my home-screen, and a old reddit web-page. It's very faint, but still visible. Is there anything I can do?
I have a set of Liquid Image camera goggles that I use for skiing. To charge the goggles, there is a cable with a standard USB connection on one end and a connection on the other end that I've never seen before:
I'm not sure if this is a standard connection or a bespoke one for the camera goggles. Please could someone identify the cable type if it is? Thanks very much.
Running a 8320 on my brother's computer. I have overclocked before, it's a relatively painless process. I set the voltage to it's manual, (1.4) and bumped up the multiplier to 20, bringing it to 4 GHZ, however in task manager and openhardwaremonitor I am seeing the stock 3.5GHZ, the only difference is the BUS speed is falling way below 200, from anywhere between 199 to 160 depending on what I set my multiplier to. The only time I got an overclock to stick was when I bumped it up once to 3.6ghz. Previous owner was able to get it to 4.1ghz on air (didn't try higher), with the same exact cooler that he sent me.
What am I missing, and what can I do?
So I built a new PC, installed windows on it and after downloading some software turned it off for the night. Now when i turn it on it prompts me to install windows AGAIN as if i hadn't already installed it. I have tried almost everything on the boot menu, removing the USB i used to install windows doesnt work, just asks me to install a valid boot device and restart. Any ideas?
EDIT: Solved, as a last ditch effort switched the boot mode? to uefi from legacy+uefi. Hopefully this helps others.
My laptop prompted me to restart it last night for updates to Windows 10. I restarted it, it ran the first updates which seemed normal, then reset itself. Then it said it was doing more updates. The status screen used smaller text than the previous one and didn't look like the normal "updates" screen. It said something to the effect of "expect this to take a while."
Now, 9 hours later, I wake up to see a black screen with a spinning circle (the circle is made of dots). I'm scared to do a hard reset incase something isn't installed yet and thus basically murdering the OS.
(Side note: this exact thing happened with another laptop about a month or two back. I just cut all power after 48 hours and gave up on it--didn't think about posting here and don't want to spend money on it right now since most of my computing occurs on my phone.)
I notice there is around 1~3 pixel of "wall" in the corner where the mouse wont go to the next monitor. Is it possible to increase this wall to the size of maybe the taksbar?
My family was mapping out my house with the breaker box. and what they switch off my side of the house i forgot to switch off my psu switch. i thought maybe my pc wont turn on because i messed up the psu. i went and bought another one and im still getting the same issue. I unplugged and plugged everything back in. There is a green light the illuminates on the mobo when ever i switch on the psu. could my cpu be fried aswell as the motherboard?
Somehow my stepfather changed my Google account default email, and now, I can't find how to change it back to the old one. He was trying to make a new Gmail account and it overwrote my default account email and even the password. I already took care of the password, but now, I can't change the default email back because Google won't let me. Anybody can help me out here? Related image: http://ift.tt/2C0OL28
So I just finished assembling my new PC, and upon trying to start it my ez LED error panel lights up for cpu and dram. I removed the RAM sticks and tried them one by one in the same dimm slot. As it turns out, with one stick I am able to boot up and go into BIOS. However when I try running the other stick by itself the pc keeps rebooting and over and over without even running diagnostic on the ez led error panel. My question is simple, is this enough proof that one of the sticks is faulty since it just constantly restarts the system without even fully powering up?
I have been attempting to flash the most recent version of Tomato on an Asus RT-AC3200 and in using the Firmware Restoration tool, I get to the point where it says "Successfully recovered the system. Please wait for the system to reboot." After waiting about 30 minutes for it to change at this point, I attempt to use the 192.168.1.1 webpage, but am repeatedly given the "Settings have been updated. Web page will now refresh. Changes have been made to the IP address or port number." ASUS page. I had to revert the firmware back to the most recent ASUS version to get the internet to work again.
Is there anything anyone on here can suggest to fix my issue? I followed the steps in this video and cannot get into the Tomato GUI. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UkoZ-YQz7c (Stuck at 15:50)
My PC has been running fine with no hardware changes to it (the past year at least), but yesterday I decided to try out the 'sleep' mode feature that activates after 2 hours of not using the computer.
I wake up and I thought my PC was still in sleep mode as it had no lights on. I have tried many ways of turning it on, but to no avail.
The only light on is the motherboard LED, but I found out that works as long as you have the cpu plugged in.
I'm thinking it's a PSU problem but open to other ideas or ways to find out as I dont want to buy another one if possible.
Thanks for reading and the help!
Product Name: HP Envy 700-074 Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 (64-bit) RE: HP Forums - PC restarts upon shutdown and WiFi adapter is nonexistent
I'm not sure if it's an HP issue, Windows issue or hardware issue.
I have tried everything within my understanding to stop my PC from turning back on a few seconds after I shutdown.
The problem started months ago and I got so fed up that I left it alone until now.
Steps I have taken:
Turned off automatic restart upon system failure Disabled fast-startup Restored to 1/1/17 Upddated Windows 10 Updated Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller I don't know what else I can do really.
In addition to this, my Ralink Wi-Fi Adapter is completely missing. It doesn't show up in Device Manager. My Desktop asks for an ethernet connection.
In Windows > Settings > Network & Internet there is no left-hand tab for Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi simply does not exist.
I'm wondering if this is causing the automatic reboot.
I don't know what driver I need to download to get my Wi-Fi adapter back. I know it might be an issue with the card, and I am open to buying a usb adapter. I am more concerned with my Desktop acting as thought it's possessed by a ghost.
I've been having issues with PC crashes. It was sporadic in the past but I noticed that it increase in frequency lately.
What usually happens is that it crashes when I am playing any 3d intensive games such as Divinity OS 2 or Subnautica, sometimes while having a youtube/twitch video play in the background. The crash is just a freeze frame and a loud buzzing sound in my headphone (presumably a crash on the audio output). Followed by either me manually turning it off by holding the power button or it turning itself off.
After that, the PC will be unable to power on for about an hour after. There is still light on the motherboard and GPU though. I have tried to let it cool down and/or unplugging all internal and external components and replugging but it makes no difference.
The probability of it crashing is higher when playing any game with twitch running.
My CPU temperature is running around 45 degree Celsius on normal usage and rises up to about 60 to 70 when running games. GPU is running at 55 degree Celsius while normal and rises to 70-80 when playing games, sometimes a little more. However, as the crashes are random I'm not able to grab the temperature when the crashes occur.
The specs are:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.30GHz Mobo: Asus Z170M Plus RAM: 2x Vengeance® LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz GFX: Asus R9280x OS HDD: Samsung SSD 840 EVO 120GB Data HDD: Western Digital Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Game HDD: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB Tray: Asus DRW-24D5MT PSU: Seasonic G-650 OS: Win7 SP1 64-bit
Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is driving me nuts.
So my pc today didnt want to turn on im pretty its the mother board i tried another psu and still didnt turn on but if i do the psu short thing to see if it turns on it will power up my hard drives too but not my gpu idk if im making sense but is that normal for it to only power up the hard drives but not the gpu when the moba dies? any advice would be great thanks.
Let me just preface this by saying, I will literally pay you if you help me SOLVE this issue. Seriously, it's been going on for months and no seems to have a solution.
Here's my build list: http://ift.tt/2BYVCsT
So here's the issues: Ever since I installed the Windows 10 Creators Update I have had completely insane issues with software AND hardware. It started with my computer getting stuck in an endless loop of BSODs with error codes changing every time (ex: KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_ERROR). From there, I took the following steps to repair the issue:
Use the Windows Restart "Automatic Repair" function - every time I tried this it just crashed during the install
Tried to flash Windows back to old version - system says there is no old version to go back to
Nuclear Option! - Wiped the SSD boot drive, put the Windows 10 ISO onto a USB, booted to the USB via BIOS and tried to reinstall Windows 10 fresh - I get about half way through the process until I get a BSOD again... This is strange because Windows 10 is NOT installed on the SSD and the HDD is disconnected 3a. I also tried loading Windows ISO onto multiple USB drives, tried each in different USB slots, etc. 3b. I also tried booting from the USBs WITHOUT the SSD or HDD connected - still crashes during install
Removed CMOS battery to reset BIOS entirely - I then went into the BIOS and tried to boot through the USB with Windows 10 ISO on it and immediately received a BSOD
Tried step 4 once again, this time without the GPU installed. Did not work.
Tried step 4 once again, this time with only one stick of RAM (I swapped each RAM stick into each slot.... nothing worked)
Ran Memtest - found that RAM was getting errors - Sent RAM back to G.Skill, received new ones. 7a. Tried to install Windows again - still received BSOD
Sent MOBO back to MSI and received new one. Just rebuilt my PC an hour ago with the new MOBO and new RAM - STILL GET BSODs!!!
At this point, I am at a complete loss of words. Literally the only piece of the puzzle that's left is the CPU, but honestly it makes no sense that the CPU would cause BSODs when Windows is literally not installed on anything, GPU is removed, SSD/HDD are removed, new MOBO, new RAM... Same philosophy with the PSU - there's no way this could cause BSODs when Windows is not installed.
So, does anyone have a clue as to what the issue could be? I've posted this is in multiple forums and everyone is at a loss for words and cannot help me. Seriously, I'm desperate and will pay! lol :(
Hi, I recently got dual monitors and when I turned on my PC today, both of them were off. I tried unplugging and plugging them back in and it fixed the older monitor. It's one I haven't used in a while but I bought an HDMI cable for it so I could have two screens.
My main monitor, the one I've been using since I bought this PC 2 years ago, didn't get fixed. I checked for loose cables and everything was plugged in fine. I restarted my computer just it case it was acting weird because I usually put my pc to sleep. Same thing, screen stayed black. I considered that it might be the screen's power cable or the DVI-HDMI cable I had on it. I switched my setup and stole the cables from the screen that was working fine. Nope, the screen's still black and the cables I thought were faulty work okay with the older monitor. So it seems the problem is my screen.
My PC detects the monitor and I can drag things in and out of the screen to my other one, but the display itself is black. The light on the power button of the monitor is fine; it's telling me the screen is on. The display is black and I can't figure out what could have happened from when I used it last night until now. All I did was put my PC to sleep and then go to bed.
The screen with the problems is a Sceptre, E225W-1920 22" LED 1080P Monitor. The one that's okay is from my old Dell computer. My computer is from CyberPowerPC. Processor is AMD FX-9590 Eight-core processor 4.70 GHz, 16.0 GB RAM. I'm running Windows 8.1. Thank you for taking your time to help me, this is my first time posting here. Let me know if I missed anything.
Windows 10
CPU: i5-2,500k 3.3Ghz // RAM: 16GB // GPU: GeForce1070 // MotherBoard: ASUS P8P67 rev 3.1 // HD: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB
I am trying to install windows 10 onto my system(I previously had it installed, but un-installed it inorder to try out linux). I have created a bootable USB with a windows 10 64bit ISO. When I restart my computer I enter bios and the USB is shown in the boot order. I place it at the front of the boot order and restart. The USB will not boot, and I get no indication that it has tried to boot. The system simply boots the next bootable device in the boot order. If I remove all other devices from the boot order then after restarting it simply opens the bios menu. If I manually pick it from boot override it goes to a black screen for a second then returns to the bios. For some reason it does not either recognize it as bootable, or fails to boot for some reason. Is there a setting I am missing? I do the same steps for a linux USB and it works fine. I have installed on this computer before with a USB, Windows 10 a few years ago, and linux recently. I do not have a DVD drive to try a DVD install.
After removing windows and installing various linux distros
Yes
No
Unknown cause. Only major changes I've made recently have been to install 3 linux distros(one at a time) LXLE, Ubuntu, and Mint. All of which have been removed from the drive now.
Tried various formats for the Windows 10 install USB including: Fat32 and NTFS file systems, GPT, MBR for UEFI and MBR for BIOS, Tried clearing all linux partitions from the drive leaving only free space. Tried setting BIOS to defaults. Tried Creating an empty NTFS partition on the drive. Tried different USBs Tried creating the bootable USB with different tools, rufus on windows and WoeUSB on ubuntu.
I'm not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to BIOS and Boot systems and such so I don't even know what to try next.
Using Bittorrent to attempt to download, first time since I got a new external harddrive. I've consistently been getting Memory Management BSoDs (and one bcmwl63a.sys BSoD). I've checked and there's nothing wrong with the ram card nor is it dislodged. It has only happened while attempting to use bittorrent and Utorrent (happened with this one first and was recommended to switch).
Again, so far only occurs when torrenting since I have acquired an external harddrive. I will update if it occurs without torrenting.
Windows 10
INTEL Core i7-6600U 8Gb ddr4 2133mhz (memory)
256ssd (storage)
Multi Touchscreen - 1920 x 1080 Full HD/Ips Screen
windows 10 Genuine licensed
dual battery
Intel HD Graphics 520 & Nvidia 930m
My screen gets fuzzy/static randomly whenever i am plugged in the charger
Video: http://ift.tt/2DCtvAn | http://ift.tt/2ClcltL
Yesterday
Yes
12/29/2017
No
It randomly happens when i am plugged in/charging
Reformatting
System Restore
Disable the 'Display Refresh Rate Switching' under Power options in Intel HD Graphics control panel
Updating display drivers
Trying to charge in different locations in the house (fuzzy screen happened on all area)
Disabling Nvidia video card
Trying to connect my proxy/s to my windows 10 VPS.. But it doesnt connect at all, and already checked the proxy, so would absolutely LOVE for someone to give a hand and help
I am willing to give the vps to anyone or proxies if needed, if you'd like to help that is... i would appriciate it.
The VPS is compatible with proxies
and the proxies does work.
Pics: http://ift.tt/2DCtfkT
Thank you alot, thanks..
What's happening:
What I tried:
Other info:
Strangely, the cursor does disappear when leaving it in certain areas of the screen, like 2cm from the edge of the screen.
EVEN MORE STRANGELY, if I have taskbar running in the background with no other windows open, the mouse cursor disappears like it's supposed to, no matter which part of the screen I leave it on.
Some people have reported uTorrent might be causing the issue, but it happens even with uTorrent off (although, uTorrent has been acting strange lately too, starting up on its own at random times. Not sure if related).
Help?
This video shows it happening. It's just weird to me that something like this takes up 50% of my CPU. Is there something wrong with my CPU or what?
Edit: Also my GPU shoots up I didn't realize that until I re-watched the video. I have a 1080
I've recently completed a new build, and would love to hear what others do and recommend for maintenance.
A few concrete questions I have are:
How often should I clean dust from components and is compressed air the best method?
Do I need to reapply thermal paste every so often to the cpu?
Is there a sort of general check up I should run from time to time to make sure everything's working as it should?
Any other key maintenance tasks?
Answers to the above or any other tips or suggestions welcome!
So a relative bought McAfee Internet Security 2018 for 3 devices, for her computer and my laptop at least. I've searched online and on reddit and there is so much negativity towards McAfee, I'm afraid it will be a bad thing if I install it.
Thing is, this is not the free version but Internet Security which is paid. Maybe only the free is bad? Or even this paid version is also crappy? I am not sure if I should go ahead and install it on my laptop.
Hi all!
I’ve got a Dell Inspiron Gaming laptop (I’m on mobile, so apologies for the formatting [if it’s messed up] but here’s a link for ya: laptop )
It’s got it’s fair share of problems, but here’s a non-tech tech-support question: the matte black case looks cool, but not with fingerprints. How do I clean long-lasting stains from hand-oils or grease or whatever they are?
For a little more context: while it’s clear that new fingerprints can be cleaned with a microfiber cloth, the ones that have been around for a while cannot, and as a result, I’ve got these massive discolorations (still matte black, looks the same as fingerprints) over the areas where I open/close the laptop and especially over the area I grab when pulling it out of my bag. Unfortunately, I’m not near the laptop at the moment, so I can’t attach pictures, but I’ll edit some in as soon as I can.
So tl;dr : how do you clean stains off a matte black computer case and how do you know which products/chemicals/methods will be safe?
Thanks for the help!
Windows 10
Windows 10 Home 64-bitCPU Intel Core i7 7700HQ ASUS ROG Strix GL553VD
My laptop keyboard has been regularly freaking out and it took me a while to figure out what the problem was. However after getting the virtual keyboard up I realised that my computer thought the Control and C/V keys were being pressed. I thought it was a hardware problem but when looking at the Virtual Keyboard they were being pressed on there as well (http://ift.tt/2zQHRdK) I had to use the virtual keyboard to take a screenshot, that's why the button is pressed. It is solved temporarily by either logging out or restarting, both fix the keyboard issue however the problem returns shortly after.
Four days ago
Yes
N/A
Yes
Nothing, it just happens randomly, sometimes it can be hours without becoming a problem, sometimes it only takes a few minutes.
I have tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling them but it hasn't helped.
We have a Linksys router and everything is connected. We can connect to the internet and everything but it won’t load or anything. It shows a connection but it’s as if we were t connected at all. There is another box with multiple lights and the light near US is blinking and 3 other buttons are lit up.
The three buttons that are lit up are: Power, DS, and Link. There is one button that isn’t lit up and it’s the ONLINE button. All these lights are on an Arris box which I don’t exactly know what is used for. I can provide pictures for anything that might help. Thanks in advance :)
Under System Status in BIOS it says "M.2/SATA Port 6 - Not present", but I installed windows 10 on it with no problem. I also did a speed test with Samsung Magician and I got 800 MB/s read and write, which seems a bit low.
My motherboard is MSI Z97S SLI PLUS, which should be able to handle 10Gb/s according to the manual.
Is the fact that the BIOS is not detecting it related to the low speed?
As of December 25th every time i restart to update something my pc tells me, upon restarting, that its getting windows ready Dont turn off your computer and i waited and waited but 27 hours later nothing changed and turning off my pc did nothing to change this. I dont know how but at one point i got the pc to a menu were i could reset my pc and delete all files and when i did that the pc worked fine again, but as of today the error has reemerged and i have no idea how to fix it. I've tried booting into safe mode but i cannot and just leaving my computer off for a couple of hours. I would really appreciate some help.
I have a WiFi extender and I want to know what is the best router mode for the extender. Ap, bridge, or repeating.
So after a long break with computer games i've started playing again. First game i started playing was Portal 2 in which i first started noticing audio problems. When there was speech at the end of it it suddenly cut out. The longer the speech the more of the speech was cut out. After finishing Portal 2 i started playing Witcher 3 and the same problem continued. In its cutscenes the audio seems to be fast forwarded, after a while audio becomes desync with its video and the audio keeps getting cut out same way as in Portal.
This makes me think the problem is within steam because i've only encountered within steam (read: only in games, i haven't played anywhere else and the problem doesn't occur in youtube where i'd think it would occur if the problem was with drivers/hardware)
My computers specs: ***
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3G by Asus
Sound card: Speakers (High Definition Audio device)
RAM: 8093 Mb
*Pretty much checked from steam
**Original component, circa 4-6 y old
***Problem occured after updating to this version, although i hadn't played for months beforehand.
Other:
According to Windows Defender, no viruses (maybe not the most trustworthy)
After updating system doesn't really shutdown: sometimes when I turn on my computer youtube is already playing video which was on when I shut my computer( i think windows 10 is just being windows 10)
I'm 18 and I don't know that much about computers, but I have common sense.
When I play games like assassins creed origins or VR games my pc randomly reboots.
My pc specs are, motherboard: gigabyte G1.Sniper B6 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 video card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming Ram: Kingston HyperX DDR3, 16GB Power supply: Cooler Maser GM G750M, 750W
Hdd: WD blue WD10EZEX, 1Tb
I use 2 BenQ Zowie RL2455 as monitor's.
When I play assassins creed my cpu gets up to 55 to 65 degrees celsius. I recently cleaned my pc with dust clearer stuff.
Do you guys, girls or others genders have any suggestions what the problem is. THANKS
Ps. I also posted this on r/gaming and someone sed I also should post it here.
Can police track person using Kik? What if a person tells that they are committing suicide to someone on Kik? Can police track them
Windows 7
gtx1060, i7 3820, ailienware motherboard, 16gb ram
N/A
when i open chrome/open new tab in chrome it just shows me this http://ift.tt/2DCB1Ln page, when it should be showing me google search bar, my chrome theme and the google logo (iirc).
yesterday, it happened after i tried to install something
Yes
N/A
No
open chrome or open new tab
safe mode (it fixes the issue while in safe mode)
safe mode with internet prompt and the issue is there still
removed/disabled all chrome extentions
ran antiviruses in safe mode, it did not detects any threats but it did seem to fix some of the issues as it changed the search engine (which i couldn't change back through chrome) back to google from yahoo and removed yahoo theme from 'new tab' section
looked for any suspicious programs running in the background
looked for any suspicious programs installed through control panel
reinstalling chrome
reseting everything (cache, etc.) chrome
restored chrome to earlier point from last month, didn't work so its clearly something installed on my computer
My external hdd died (the adapter anyway) so I stuck the drive in my tower. It works, but it was unallocated. I tried a few free versions of some Data Recovery software but to get any of them to target my drive I had to format it so it could be recognized. After running them they just seem to see some basic files that stay with the drive. PDFs of user manuals and such.
I keep reading, however, that formatting a drive only deletes the address tables and marks the data as ready for deletion, but doesn't actually delete anything yet. So the data should still be there right? I haven't put anything in the drive yet, and it shows up empty when I navigate to it (doesn't even show those PDFs).
I did look around the sub and tried some suggestions but so far no luck.
Is there a way I can get my data back?
Was working fine just last night, then when I went to use my laptop this morning, it can no longer find any networks. My wifi router is working and all of my other devices (phone, Xbox, etc) connect to the WiFi no problem. And yes, wifi is not disabled on PC, and airplane mode is off. Restarting and updating didn't help.
My PC is an MSI ge62 apache pro, running on Windows 10. WiFi card is an Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160 #2
I'll try to be brief: I have a laptop. I want to give it away but first I need to reset it to factory. Laptop had its main drive replaced because it was physically damaged and dedicated recovery partition from Lenovo was unreadable so it was deleted. I tried creating bootable usb with many windows 8.1 versions (windows 8.1, windows 8.1 N, windows 8.1 single language etc), none of which worked, the only thing windows had to say about it was that "this product key won't work with this version of windows". Since it's a laptop it runs windows 8.1 oem version (obviously) and it won't accept the key I extracted from it (using powershell). At this point I'm helpless and I really, really hate this idiotic mess known as windows and I humbly as for any help. Please do not give me any tips about upgrading it to windows 10 and restoring it to factory settings in the process, I want to keep 8.1
i cant seem to wrap my head around this but basically whenever i try to hook my hdmi from my computer to my monitor i get a no signal error. It works just fine with my tv. anyone have any idea why it doesnt work or how i can fix it. PS its not the cord/ monitor itself i have tried other cords with my tv also my monitor works fine with my xbox. Also the monitor model is a HP w2338h 23' widescreen monitor.
So today I upgraded my Motherboard CPU and RAM to a Gigabyte Z370 hd3 board, I3 8350k and 16gb Corsair vengeance DDR4 RAM. Now after installing I don't have any video output. All the fans are spinning and LEDs are on yet I have no video output.
I've tried 2 different monitors, different cables, also tested Display port and HDMI, tried to get video output from motherboard and from GPU but nothing works.
http://ift.tt/2q1wkZG the manual lists these LEDs, when powering on it shows a brief light at CPU DRAM and VGA but the BOOT LED stays on.
Anybody have an idea what could be wrong?
I have a Z170 Pro Gaming Motherboard. It is requiring that I manually select the boot drive every time when it posts. I have done some research, but have been unable to remedy the situation myself. Anyone have any suggestions?
Edit: Here are some pictures from the BIOS.
This is a rather benign issue, but for someone like me with minor OCD, it bugs me that my UAC window for all programs and actions wants to show up on the far right side of my main display. I didn't have any luck googling this (though I may have not used the best of search terms), so I'm resorting here to see if any folks are able to give me a quick solution.
Thank you for reading!
Edit: I forgot to mention that manually dragging the UAC window to where I want it will not save that location for future notifications, for whatever reason. Windows 8.1
Windows 10
INTEL Core i7-6600U 8Gb ddr4 2133mhz (memory) 256ssd (storage) Multi Touchscreen - 1920 x 1080 Full HD/Ips Screenwindows 10 Genuine licenseddual battery - Intel HD Graphics 520
My screen gets fuzzy/static randomly whenever i am plugged in the charger
Video: http://ift.tt/2ClcltL
Yesterday
Yes
12/29/2017
No
It happens whenever i am charging but it randomly happens. But it only happens when im plugged in.
Reformatting
System Restore
Disable the 'Display Refresh Rate Switching' under Power options in Intel HD Graphics control panel
Windows 10
N/A
Hi,
I posted here a month ago about a no POST issue that turned out to be fixed by changing the CPU. Took a while to diagnose (went to two repair shops, one told me it was the GPU and the other thought the mobo), but after buying parts I ended up figuring out it was the CPU. Changed it, the system booted and was used regularly for a week or so. I had a minimal issue that would cause my PSU to do a strange noise every once in a while but when I flipped it (was looking down so i put it up), it strangely enough fixed it. I was monitoring my temps with HW to make sure nothing was gonna blow up again and everything seemed fine at first, but I began to experience freeze that would require hard reset (mouse was disappearing and sounds would stop) and could happen at any time. The last one was fatal and the computer would no longer POWER this time. Leds and fans flickers for a sec or even less, but that's it. Was pretty sure the PSU was dead so I tried with a spare one I had bought for the previous issue but in vain. I began to test different combos and ended up trying both Mobo with the previous CPU aswell. It would power with it (still no post but hey, that's at least something), but not with the recent one. Tried switching PSU/Ram but the issue remained and only switching CPU would change something. Now that I now what's the problem, I would like to understand what causes it and prevent a third chip to blow up for nothing. Could it be the PSU? A short in my Mobo? My heatsink fucking it up?
Thanks for your time.
When changing CPU
Yes
About a week ago
Yes
Haha I don't recommend you do, for your sake and mental health.
Hello, I have Lenovo Legion Y520 with Nvidia geforce 1050 Ti. Problem is that it has also integrated Intel 630 gpu, which is connected to only hdmi output. Is it possible in some way to change that hdmi port would connect not to Intel 630, but to Nvidia 1050 Ti?
It would be strange if I can't change it, because this laptop is listed in vr capable: http://ift.tt/2m2EU7n
Windows 10
Xiaomi Mi Notebook Pro - Intel i5 8250U - nVidia MX150 - 8GB of RAM
N/A
When I right-click the Windows 10 TaskBar and go to "TaskBar Settings", I scroll down to the Notifications Area. Once here, I click "Select icons to visualize on the TaskBar".
I am shown this screen (imgur link: http://ift.tt/2pWaLcM - Italian language). I want to enable some programs' icons to be shown on the right of the Windows TaskBar, for example the program called Everithing. But I can't because when I enable the option nothing appears where it should appear.
Probably the issue is linked to the fact that some apps' icons are not shown as you can see in the image I linked. This problem did not exist until something happened, because I have used that option before. If you guys could help me it would be great!
Some days ago
No
11/11, but the product arrived nearly a month later, so one week ago
Yes, but it will be very difficult to obtain since I bought this laptop from China
When I received the notebook, all was working very well. I did not have this issue.
Then I did some modifications with Windows (nothing strange, just disabled some options in order to increase my SSDs speed). Every passage I did was written in very useful guides and I don't think I have made anything particularly strange or harmful to the system.
Nothing. I really don't know what to do so I'm asking you guys.
I'm using Windows 10 and I can connect a Bluetooth controller to the laptop for the first time by searching from the laptop.
Now when I want to connect the second time the device can be seen from the laptop and even says "paired" (even when the controller is off). The controller is not paired because it's still searching by having a flashing searching light.
What's going on here? Everytime I want to connect I have to forget the device and then search for it and connect it again.
Disclaimer: I've posted this before but at a bad time of day. Hoping this will get more traction.
So, for almost half a year I've had this crashing issue with my PC. It would run fine for days or even weeks without crashing and then randomly, without any decernible cause, freeze up or give me a blue screen. Once this happens, it will crash again but instead of taking days it'll take hours. The frequency of the crashes increases until I cannot even boot into windows.
I've tested out pretty much every component to remedy this and at this point I'm certain that it is a hardware issue. Most notably when taking my PC apart to swap parts, there are no crashes while I run my system open air; outside of the case. This is the only method that consistently got rid of the crashes for me. Swapping components would only temporarily solve the issue til a week or so later when the cycle starts again. Also interesting to note is that I've taken the system apart and put it together three times by now. So this isn't some ESD caused by a random screw just laying in the case. Something's up with the way my hardware interacts with my case and I have no idea what it could be.
Additional info:
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S (ITX)
Mobo: Asus Z170i Pro Gaming
PSU: Corsair SF600 with cablemod extensions mounted with a Silverstone SFX to ATX bracket
I am about to consolidate all of my old flash drives, SD cards, and external hard drives into one singular 8TB external hard drive.
I have no interest in keeping my old drives as they will be obsolete for myself, and time will only degrade their integrity onward, so keeping them is pointless.
My first choice would be to use a Data Shredder on the external hard drives (2TB and 3TB) and sell them on eBay. Not looking for much, but that money would go straight into the 8TB I am about to buy.
Obviously, I do not want anyone to be able to retrieve my information from them.
If this is not an option, how can I destroy them properly? Do I need fire? Magnets?
Hello there. My Inspiron 15R (5521) seems to have slowed down to a point where I am now looking to upgrade to an SSD and add more RAM and extend its life. What SSDs and RAMs are compatible with my laptop? Is a Crucial MX300 (1TB) good enough for an upgrade? How are Crucial RAMs rated compared to their competitors?
Much thanks in advance!
On some games like Ark, World of tanks, most ubisoft titles like assassins creed our screen temporarily goes black. It comes back after a few seconds. When we play on borderless windowed we never get the black screen bug. Also on the vanilla skyrim we didnt have this problem but on the special edition screen goes black all the time. Temps are fine, latest gpu drivers are installed. Any ideas on what to do?
So i've had this PC for little over a year. It has a i5 6500, Gtx 1070 and a 256 GB SSD. (Im not too good at computers, so a friend build it for me). It has overall been a super solid PC with zero problems up until now. The boot up takes 2-3 minutes when it used to take 10 seconds... Im thinking it might be because my SSD is almost full and i have deleted and downloaded games multiple times to have space for new ones. Can anyone help me or give some advice?