So, our internet package gives us 2 internet connections. All my devices, including 2 xbox one's, a switch and a pc can connect to both wifis except my ps4 for some reason. This wouldn't bother me so much, except that the wifi the ps4 connects too isnt as strong and is constantly crashing.
Is there a reason why my ps4 can't connect to the second wifi? we have 1 router and 1 modem
I recently got a rx 560 ti and to my dismay it does not output video. I have a computer with a core i5 clocked at 3.1 ghz, 8 gigs of ram, and a 500 watt evga power supply. I use dvi btw.
I have a tablet (10.1 in. Viking Pro) that will not go past the boot screen, I have tried factory resetting it but it still won't go past the boot screen. Is there a program to flash to obtain the original firmware.
Every once in a while I'd get an email on the linked recovery account saying an attempt to access it was thwarted, but then suddenly one night I got three emails in a row that it was accessed, password changed and account recovery email changed. The account recovery process is useless. Is there anything I can do? Any hidden support or contact that google offers through which I can seek to regain access to this account, at the very least to see what if my information may have been exposed and shut down the account?
After installing the April update Windows keeps nagging me about the E: drive running out of space. I only have one drive installed so I'm guessing it's some sort of system reserved partition but it didn't appear before installing the update. Is there any way to hide the drive or stop Windows notifying me about it every 30 seconds?
So, my 1TB HDD is pretty much DOA at this point with too many bad sectors to attempt a repair, and I'm currently in the process of cloning it over to a new HDD. What I'm wondering is, is it possible to reduced the available storage on the HDD (to maybe 500GB, per say) and continue using it as a slave drive or some sort of other auxillary storage with the remaining usable sectors? I absolutely hate just throwing away hardware if I can squeeze a bit more life out of it.
Thanks!
After the recent Windows update i've noticed in event logger that warning event 1534 "Profile notification of event Load for component {44BAF61B-E481-4305-9166-33B1FD3F4876} failed, error code is A required privilege is not held by the client" now occurs every time i log in. What does this mean because this NEVER happened before the recent update, any help would, be appreciated.
I am trying to delete Windows_Old. It is not working. I went through command prompt:
RD /S /Q %SystemDrive%\windows.old(1) RD /S /Q %SystemDrive%\windows.old(2) RD /S /Q %SystemDrive%\windows.old(3)
All it says is: Access denied. Can anyone help me?
Thanks, Annonymous
P.S. I am on a Dell Inspiron 13-5378 Signature Edition
Windows 10, i5-4460, GTX 970
I've been having fps drops in my games for a few months now (Rainbow Six Siege, PUBG, Vermintide 2 to name a few) and I couldn't diagnose the problem. Then one day a couple weeks ago I realised Antimalware Service Executable (Windows Defender Antivirus Service) was using about 1-2GB of ram in the task manager. After disabling real-time protection in the Windows Defender Security Centre, I realised all the fps drop problems in my games were gone. Since then, I've been having to disable windows defender before I play any games, since it re-enables itself every now and then, even during games which is noticeable immediately as the frame drops start straight away. Now my question is, why is this happening, as windows defender is no longer using crazy resources, but if it is on, I get frame drops. I don't want to disable windows defender permanently, I just want to diagnose and fix the problem.
Hey! So another day, another question! I’ve recently bought an Acer Spin 5: I7-8550u Gtx 1050 8GB ddr4 sdram.
ANYWAYS: is there a way for the laptop’s charger to not charge the battery when it’s fully charged. I’d rather it rely off power from mains and if unplugged, it then relies on battery.
I’ve heard Dell laptops do something like this.
Thanks!
So my windows 10 pc have been acting weird the past months, Sometimes on my drive i have 1 gb left and then i have 500 mb,
The truth is i dont know why i have so little gb left in my drive when i have downloaded like nothing. I tried lots of things to fine the files that are taking crap tons of space but no luck. I would like to know if any of you guys, know the reason why my drive is nearly full.
My daughter has a 1060 gtx 6gb. Her video driver a few times a day would just bail (a pop up box would say so or a BSOD would. Such are in the system event log). Though she's a gamer it would crash when she wasn't playing games at random times. From what I could see, the card wasn't running particularly hot. Also, the particular games she plays aren't, as I understand it, on the front line of maxing out a GPU (no FPS games).
As a sanity check on her card, i.e. in the electrical sense, I had her boot into safe mode and it was OK but there's so much different there (besides the non-loading of the nvidia driver, which was the point, it's also, as per safe mode limitations, running only 1 monitor at 1280x1024 vs her normal 2 monitors at 2560x1440). So, I figured it must be a device driver conflict but I didn't see anything unusual in her startup if device drivers.
I also, based on a post I stumbled onto in an Nvidia forum I think, from the BIOS tried setting the PCIEe revision down to 2.0 (it was set at "auto" which I'm sure translated to 3.0 for the 1060) just to see if it was bus/stress related. That didn't help either.
As it turns out, I myself have a 970gtx. So, I did an experiment. I swapped cards without even removing/updating/changing the drivers. I figured if there was an issue with the actual card my machine would now crash and if there was an issue with the drivers hers still would. It seemed a better option than trying every driver (i.e. not starting each driver...or perhaps sets of them) to see which one(s) was the issue. Well, it's been running for a day and neither machine has a problem. So, now I'm just baffled.
Note, she's had this problem for a while so she's tried various revisions of the drivers (latest and various old versions). Also, she's runing win7. I'm running win10. As I understand it, they use the save nvidia drivers. In any event, I don't see why my 970 would work in her computer when her 1060 wouldn't.
At this point, what's left? I guess regardless of the fact I didn't change the drivers, the drivers internally could be running different some code (maybe it detects the specific gpu model when it loads and loads/runs different pieces of the driver based on that?). That seems highly unlikely. I guess it could be that the mobo and card timings with respect to PCIe are slightly different? That seems unlikely (she has a new ASUS mobo. So, I think that's even more absurd and even more so considering I've tried PCIe 2.0 .) So, nothing seems likely to me at this point.
Any suggestions?
I have a friend who's laptop started getting BSOD a lot. The laptop is pretty old and he already has a new laptop. He wants to use acronis universal restore to copy everything from his old laptop's hard drive to the new laptop's hard drive. He wants to use acronis universal restore because he has a lot of programs installed on his old laptop and he doesn't remember where he put all the product activation keys. Acronis universal restore I believe allows you use an image of the old hard drive even though it is on new hardware. The problem I am having is that when I try to create the clone on the old laptop, the laptop would BSOD before the cloning process even finishes. I am wondering if I would be able to take the hard drive out of the laptop and plug it into my desktop instead and clone it from there. Any help would be appreciated.
As I’ve shared in the past, Google Cloud’s vision for the healthcare industry is very much a reflection of Google’s overall mission. We’re building healthcare-specific products and solutions as well as supporting a growing partner ecosystem to help companies organize healthcare data in a way that is accessible and interoperable, but also secure, enabling them to create a positive and lasting impact on human health.
Today we’re announcing a new collaboration with Fitbit across wearables and digital health that will help drive positive health outcomes at scale. Fitbit has chosen Google Cloud as their preferred cloud provider and will be using our Cloud Healthcare API to provide an interoperability solution that enables their users to collaborate on care with their own healthcare providers. For example, using Cloud Healthcare API with Fitbit’s newly acquired Twine Health platform. The two companies will also be exploring how Google Cloud’s machine learning APIs can help them uncover deeper insights to benefit their users.
Although we’re just getting started in this collaboration, we’re excited by what’s possible. To date, Fitbit has sold more than 76 million devices, built a community of more than 25 million active users and has one of the world’s largest health and fitness databases. We hope that by helping them take advantage of our highly secure platform and support for open standards, we can bring better health to more people around the world.
Hi, I was wondering if my SFF's PSU could possibly power a 1050. I don't know how to do the calculations but here are my PSU specs: +5.08V 14A, +3.3V 8A, +12V 17A, -12V 0.5A, +5.08Vsb 2.5A. CPU i5 2400, Ram 2x4GB, 1 HDD (+5V 0.72A), and 1 DVD drive (can unplug right?), Case fan (12V 0.65A). Many thanks for help! I have searched Google with mixed response.
I'm having a problem with a program and I'm not sure how to read the long for the hung application, I'll provide it here: https://pastebin.com/WJYik2g1
So I was turning on my EGPU enclosure when my roommate noted one of the fans wasn't turning. I tried to kind of kickstart it with a small screwdriver I had on my desk. What neither of us realized (until it was too late) was that that fan belonged to the power supply. There was a pop and a spark and the whole circuit went dead. Now nothing happens when I flip the switch (with the enclosure plugged into a different circuit). I'm pretty sure I damaged the power supply in some way, but a) is it repairable by me and b) could that have damaged the graphics card as well?
I am desperate for some answers so hoping someone can help. I hope I can have this make sense. This is my best explanation on what is going on but I could be missing something bc this is not my area and I only put the pieces together in past few days.
I believe we clicked on something on one of my MacBooks that started this nightmare. We started noticing internet issues about a month ago. Devices were getting kicked off, things were running SLOW. My husband did a factory reset with a paperclip with our router one day while I was gone. I came home and needed to change logins to WiFi. I used the IP address and standard login on router to change admin settings. Did so on a computer that I now believe has spyware:adware. Later that day, I tried to login again and password had changed. I’ve literally had this happen 100plus times now. I will change every setting but it doesn’t matter bc they change it back and have all remote access settings turned on. Spectrum was useless just giving us a new router tag was the same as old one.
But I guess I wanted to believe new router took care of it. It seemed to but the past few days I realized it’s still going on. This is where things get crazy.
I started not being able to login to things I login to daily. Most concerning, my external savings accounts. Friday night I was on my laptop messing around and noticed one of processes (or from opening that utility) was Apple keychain. I checked logs and noticed someone or some process on there. I can’t even remember what I did but was trying to do something when they added a passcode to my own keychain and suddenly couldn’t access it when I had prior. This was just the start. I’ve barely slept dealing with this. Also weird is in my finder an icon by folders was saying “searching this Mac) with a spinning circle. This was never there. When I clicked on it, it was my sons phone or stuff on there. Our apple ids are closely linked bc he’s young but he’s never been on this computer and that shouldn’t be there.
When I looked at his phone, under GENERAL-VPN it said an app called TeTHER ME was managing his device or something like that (took screenshots but since lost a lot with resets). I’ve never added that and he can’t add anything (he’s 8) without me approving. I don’t know how they connected his phone to my stuff but may have had his iCloud login from me entering it on that computer. So his phone has been restored but that icon on computer still not going away. I don’t believe his phone is free and clear. His passwords were changed with 2-factor added. For reference he had iPhone 6s and hadn’t had latest update bc space (and time)but does now.
Now my phone. My phone is brand new iPhone 10x. I realized this weekend apps were being downloaded. I was seeing updates on file master update that I didn’t do. The app CLOUDAPP was on there that I never downloaded. Other things on there were fake versions of real apple apps. Mh phone was unlocking itself in front of me. Good way to feel like you are losing your mind. They locked me out of my account and changed security questions and password. I went through on phone with Apple 2 hours resetting everything. They still could change my router admin login right behind me. I don’t know what else to do. They have now locked me out of my MacBook. They were booting up a iOS that wasn’t my normal one and so anything I do is their version snf going right to them. I can’t even do a system reboot so this may be going to Apple bc I am out of options with that device.
My questions- how do I know my phones are clear of this? I have a new router and modem and talked to tech support so know a path to take but I really need to get this figured out ASAP. I can’t pay bills or do anything bc they go in and get a login to any site I visit (if it’s important enough-I’m sure my reddit will be ok).
And I don’t know if this has affected more than just those 3 devices. I did a reset on my oldest sons phone, his is connected to his dads account and not mine but changing IP login from his phone did nothing. Same result. I can’t put this new router in until I know they won’t go after that too but I am going to be looking at a lot of money if I have to bring 3 laptops, 5 iPhones, and other Apple devices to get cleared. I have a list a mile long now and 20 min I can call my external banks and pray they haven’t wiped us out.
Apple said (phone tech support) “I can assure you no one is in your phone” and half the stuff I’ve read people fight with anyone claiming they can’t do that. I know they have 2 of our apple ids so I realize that probably helped them do this. But even changing my Passwords, is that going to kick them off my phone for good? I haven’t seen it do what it was when they locked me out of my Apple ID but even with all computers off, someone is still changing my router login after me. So I have wasted hours at this point.
Side note, our ring doorbell was inside and I never got it back on WiFi a month ago, we heard it clicking a lot and I guess I just thought it picked motion up either way. Until I noticed it was doing this with no motion at all. And we heard breathing heavy for about 15 seconds Friday night. I tried to get on and change those settings but they again, changed password and couldn’t get on right after. I’m guessing it’s connected but not sure who is doing this. But ring doorbell has no secure connection option so I’m not messing with that until I get this figured out.
Sorry for long post but any experience with any part of this would help st this point. I’ve read logs on my Mac and 100% positive someone or some people are in there. Some of it was just standard process stuff snd mixed in was what appeared to maybe be conversations. They had a file scanning all my surrounding WiFi’s and had info I stumbled upon for pretty detailed info about my neighbors connections too
We are all offline for time being but I need to figure this out. Complete nightmare.
I have a problem with my ethernet.
It does not want to connect, no it's not the cable cuz the cable works on my laptop.
It looks like my desktop wants to connect to the ethernet cable but can't make it happen.
The lights besides the ethernet port flash every once in a while and every time that happens the ethernet connects for a split second.
I have no idea how to fix this.
I've reinstalled the drivers multiple times but it just doesn't want to work.
I hope this isn't something hardware related.
Sorry for vertical video.
Hey, got a problem with my ISP for a very long time. Basically, my internet works really poor at afternoon, the packet loss is high ping, jumping like crazy and the download/upload to some hosts is reduced as well, when im switching the song in spotify im getting short lag spike etc. Now what happens at night (11 PM-8 AM)? My internet is perfect, ping is so great, im able to open few 720p60fps streams (even tho my internet is just 8 download/1 upload) and play in online game without single lag spike or higher ping. First, i thought the problem happens because of packet loss and i thought it's something on my end. I have reported that problem to my ISP 2 months ago and they actually said this is not a problem from me, they tried to change something etc and that even helped, the connection was decent at days (still not good as at nights tho). Anyway the problem came back again few days ago and it already annoys me so hard. At this point i found this article: https://www.pingplotter.com/wisdom/article/bandwidth-saturation.html which is really accurate to my problem since it happens at afternoons. (people come back from work, school etc) Im really clueless what to do now, at this point im even ready to pay more for my connection because i don't want to pull "all nighter" just to play a game without lags. Please, help me. What should i even tell them/ask them for?
Ping at night: https://gyazo.com/3b26ef94eeb197d48b7acba0e3da8df6
Ping at afternoon hours in worst cases: https://gyazo.com/2b530cac9fc2750a6ef6f6ecdfe6dd22
basically in the place where i live there are no ISP except this one, so i can't change my isp/move to other place sadly.
Might sound like something a grandma born in the 1930s might ask, but I wanted to know for sure.
Does charging frequently damage the battery in the long run? Will it make the battery hold less eventually?
And would charging overnight or fully depleting the battery also damage it in the long run?
Thanks for the answers folks.
im running windows 1709, ive had it set to metered connection to avoid unwanted updates
i havent been able to play any online video games since windows last updated because my latency spikes up to 1000+ ms every minute or so
this is the same thing that happens whenever i upload a picture to send to someone so i know something is uploading things
i know it must be my computer because ive changed the wifi password and not told the new one to anyone
i think it's almost definitely windows but it could be a keylogger
windows data usage shows cortana and the windows store using up 5-6 mb of data even though i use neither
it doesnt have to be a large amount of data to cause lag spikes
i dont know what to do, closing cortana and the windows store via task manager doesnt work because they immediately start back up
im pretty sure ive disabled all the data collection bs in my privacy settings
pls help
Little background, I bought a prebuilt PC off newegg through a company called "ABS" seeing as the product in question was priced decently. Setup and all that was fine, though I recall never having to type in the Windows OS key on the side of the PC at any time (thought I'd mention that just in case). It now registers that I have Windows 10 home though.
Fast forward about a week after gaming on it, it decided to restart on its own without any warning, complete blackscreen however my case fans and GPU lights were still on when this happened. Instantly reboots to sign in and it turns my keyboard to french settings where I had to press SHIFT+ALT to revert back to US keyboard. People from r/buildapc recommended to run benchmark to determine what is the culprit for all this, and it ran ok. Is this something to send back through newegg seeing as the 1 year warranty is still valid?
Hi!
Yesterday evening my wife found my old TI-83 Plus calculator in what seemed to be in good condition lying in a box up in the attic. I bought it in 2006, it was a requirement for the studies that I took at the time, but for various reasons it was barely used. Anyhow, she picked it up, flipped it over, and checked the condition of the AAA-batteries. Sure enough, they were quite old, but they hadn’t leaked all too bad. She decided to take it back to our apartment whereas I then carefully removed the old batteries, and checked the springs. They’re all in good condition.
Anyhow, this morning – whilst the calculator had been left without batteries overnight – I bought four new AAA-batteries and carefully put them in. (One can never be too careful, am I right?) I’ve ensured that the springs are working just fine and that the AAA-batteries are positioned properly. So I close it, flip it over down onto its back, place it down on the table, press the ON-button… and then this is happens.
I began googling for answers about this and found a few tips, so I’ve tried the following four suggestions:
| Steps | Tip № 1 | Tip № 2 | Tip № 3 | Tip № 4 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Step № 1 | Remove one AAA-battery. | Remove one AAA-battery. | Remove one AAA-battery. | Remove all AAA-batteries. |
| Step № 2 | Press and hold the CLEAR-button for 5 seconds, and then release. | Press and hold the DEL-button for 5 seconds, and then release. | Press and hold the CLEAR-button. | Press and hold the ON-button for 30 seconds. |
| Step № 3 | Reinsert the AAA-battery. | Reinsert the AAA-battery. | While holding down the CLEAR-button, reinsert the AAA-battery. | Reinsert all AAA-batteries. |
| Step № 4 | Start the calculator by pressing the ON-button. | Start the calculator by pressing the ON-button. | Start the calculator by pressing the ON-button. | Start the calculator by pressing the ON-button. |
| Step № 5 | The calculator should now display the following message: “RAM cleared.” | |||
| Step № 6 | To remove this message, release the CLEAR-button and press the CLEAR-button one more time. |
The display is acting up, the tips here above doesn’t seem to solve it, and I honestly don’t know how to tackle this. Where I’m from, this calculator still seems to cost quite a bit of money, so just throwing it away isn’t a decision that I’d immediately like to make. I could perhaps buy the necessary tools and open it up, but I’m really not a practical kind of guy. Besides, my wife’s really into highly advanced math whilst I, however, am not. Not even remotely. But I thought that getting this calculator up and running would make her really happy, and that it could aid her in the math studies.
Any ideas?
Today safesearch for google and youtube restricted mode are stuck on for my computer. They were definitely not on this morning and I have not downloaded anything today. This is the only device in the house having this problem and I have checked that no parental settings are on through my router. Have tried restarting both my PC and the router, using regedit to check if safesearch is on in the policies folder (didnt have a chrome folder in either LOCAL_MACHINE or CURRENT_USER) and have tried using different opera and internet explorer as well which have the same restrictions. I can't even access half the help forums online because safesearch is blocking most of them. Using Windows 10, please help!
My HD crashed. New Hard Drive I salvaged from an old PC has a female connector whereas my pc has a male connector:
Example: Dead: https://ibb.co/jRXNMx salvaged: https://ibb.co/bWqEZH
Tx!
Hello. My Google Chrome had a virus on my school laptop, but my anti virus does recognizes it. Could you Guys help me?
While the issue I have now is somewhat different to the one I had before I will preface this post with the post I made to tomshardware which will cover some old details that are still relevant:
"I originally had my OS (Windows 8) on my 1TB hard drive (E:) but I bought an SSD (C:) and decided to install a new version of win 10 on it for faster boot times.
This worked fine for about 2 years but about 4 months ago I started getting an error where I would boot into the SSD but instead of windows I would first get "MBR Error 1, press any key to book from floppy disc" and then after pressing a key "MBR Error 2, press any key to book from floppy disc", which would re-print to the screen with every key press.
I worked out that I could get it to boot into windows on the SSD by booting first into the old HDD's windows 8 and then when prompted selecting the option to load into windows 10 on the SSD.
This worked well for about 4 months until I recently started getting random BSODs with the stop code "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT".
To fix the BSODs I tried: - Updating BIOs - Scanning for viruses - Performing Windows memory diagnostic - Removing CMOS battery (this appeared to work but it eventually started happening again)
Then, thinking that solving the MBR Error might fix it i tried: - going through these steps: https://pureinfotech.com/repair-master-boot-record-mbr-... - bootrec /fixmbr returns "The operation completed successfully" - bootrec /fixboot returns "Access is denied" (Despite the cmd window being titled "Administrator: ..." - bootrec /scanOS returns "Successfully scanned windows installations. Total identified windows installations: 1 [1] C:\Windows (this is the SSD windows 10) the operation completed successfully"
- bootrec /rebuildBCD + pressing "Y" when prompted returns "the requested system device cannot be found"
I'm quite unsure how to proceed now, if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it immensely."
Since the posting of this thread a week ago, I tried a few other things with the recovery drive and miraculously the C drive (SSD) became bootable. To check if this was always the case I removed the E drive (HDD) and much to my disappointment, I was met with a message: Reboot and Select proper boot device.
TL;DR - I have a windows 10 installation on my C drive that I use, and an old half- (manually) deleted windows 8 installation on my E drive, which I now use for storing photos and movies etc. It appears that the boot record on the SSD is corrupt and as such the only way to boot into it is to 'attempt to boot into the win 8 installation on the E drive' and then when prompted choose win 10 on the C drive. How do I fix this without having to format the SSD and reinstall windows.
Thanks,
Hugo
The title says it all, I need help regarding this because I can't find any auto software update from the phone settings, well if there is any, to anyone that knows please answer.
Fresh windows install. Gigabyte rx580. Installation goes fine but once I get into windows, it crashes within a few seconds to a solid color screen -- sometimes white, mostly the background color of my profile. Fans on the rx580 are sometimes running, so I tried to install afterburner to set a manual fan curve one time it stayed uncrashed. That didn't help though, as it'll still crash randomly.
Other thing is that when I can load afterburner, it says the card is only running at 300mhz.
Other system info:. 6700k, rog hero Maximus vii, 16gb corsair vengeance ram, adata nvme drive, 650w gigabyte psu
Of note it doesn't crash when I boot into a bootable usb disk, like gparted.
Thoughts? eBay seller said like new open box, but no returns. I tried submitting a return request so we'll see if this is something to bring eBay into.
From researching, it seems there's some new "feature" of Chrome where whether or not Flash is run depends on your engagement with a particular site. I'm trying to run Flash in Incognito on hbonow.com. I've added the domain to the allow list in settings/content/flash.
[*.]hbonow.com
I've updated Flash and restarted my browser. Flash seems to work fine in regular windows, but I can't get it to run in Incognito. I've also tried clicking the lock in the address bar and choosing "allow" for Flash.
What gives? Is there really no workaround to this?
So, I had a folder with that had my most important details saved in various documents on my PC. I just recently noticed that this single folder has completely disappeared from my PC without a trace:
What makes me worried is that I can't think of any possible explanation for this apart from someone having remote access to my PC somehow. How could it be the single most important and sensitive folder disappeared from my PC and everything else has been left untouched (as far as I can tell).
The fact that there is nothing in the recycling bin raises the possibility that the folder was shredded, if the PC was remotely accessed.
Nobody else could have had any physical access to my PC, and my PC and the documents are password protected (but I guess a determined hacker could bypass these). I definitely didn't accidentally delete the folder (in which case it would have been in the recycling bin) and I certainly did not shred it or its contents.
I can't think of any other explanation for this apart from my PC being compromised somehow. If this is the case, would it be wise to contact the organisations whose details of mine were in that folder to let them know of potential identity theft/fraud? That's what I'm really worried about, and I'm not sure if I'm rushing to conclusions or not, or whether this is a sensible action to take and if I should do this ASAP.
Finally I've become scared to use that PC now since I'm worried it's compromised. Is there any way to know if my PC is safe or if it has been remotely accessed?
Thanks for any help.
So this company offers unlimited data but they say you're not allowed to share it through a hotspot, can they really know that?
I have a RAID ssd that I need to recover data from. The physical sticks are not damaged in any way, but their original mounting (in a laptop) is no longer working. I've tried multiple pieces of software to recover the data, but they all ask for $$$ after 4 hours of scanning/finding the data :/ What software is available for this?
Since about a week ago, I have been getting BSODs on my Windows 10 desktop consistently two minutes everytime I boot up. I didn't download any new software or change any settings before the BSODs started. I usually get the 'SPECIAL_POOL_DETECTED_MEMORY_CORRUPTED' or the 'PAGE_FAULT_IN_FREED_SPECIAL_POOL' stop code. From what I can tell, these are caused by problems with drivers, so I booted the pc in safe mode, downloaded the latest drivers onto a USB stick, and tried to update the drivers from there, but that didn't solve anything. Then, I tried to reset the PC using the 'Keep My Files Option, but it encountered an 'IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL' error. I've also tried resetting the computer many more times, but I always get a variety of errors mid-reset. I have tried doing SFC scans, memory diagnostics, reseating the RAM, testing individual RAM sticks, and just about everything else the internet has told me to do with these stop codes. I've been working on it and trying new things for the past week and I've had no progress, so right now I'm just frustrated and unsure of where to go next. I'm willing, to buy a new copy of Windows 10 if that's necessary, but I don't know if that will do anything. Help me, r/techsupport, you're my only hope!
I made this post in /r/broadband too but I didn't get any help so I'm trying my luck here.
I live in Washington and my ISP is TDS. Recently my upload speed dropped from around 4-5 Mbps to about 500kbps. I had two different TDS guys come out and they tested a dozen things and couldn't figure it out. I live in the country side and apparently the signal up at the main road is good, but the signal at the box on the side of my house isn't.
Everything was fine for years until two weeks ago when it suddenly just shit itself for no apparent reason. Has anyone had this problem with TDS and know why this happened? I need that upload speed for work. I was thinking about asking them to just re-wire the entire thing, but I don't know if they would charge me a gorillion dollars or even do it. It's like 100-200 yards from my house to the road.
Ok, this one is weird and hope this helps someone... Noticed the problem because my pagefile grew to 16gigs and SSD storage space is limited. So I opened task manager and saw this weirdness. Googled some articles but none really helped so in frustration I disconnected my ethernet cable and restarted. Problem was solved but I need the Internet so I checked Windows Defender options and unchecked Automatic Sample Submission, then restarted reconnecting ethernet.
Everything seemed fine but then I ran into a Page fault in non-paged area BSOD, which I solved by doing the suggestion in Best Answer here.
Only thing I did differently yesterday than today was install Fallout New Vegas, and noticed Windows Defender running a scheduled quick scan running while playing. I'm now currently finding out why a page file is important (lots of saved info is gone) and crossing fingers nothing else goes wrong.
--System Specs--
Hey guys, I have an Fujistu Lifebook N Series laptop which is roughly 15 years old according to my uncle. It was working perfectly 2 or 3 years ago then my uncles partner, who has a disease similar to Alzheimer's, some how managed to delete the system files including system 32 and duplicated applications 4 times over. I was unable to use the programs which are designed to reset the pc therefor decided to put linux on it. then bored with linux put windows back on it using an old CD. The laptops performance suffered a mass drop after all that and i haven't been able to fix it. It has been suffering battery issues way before that but i don't think that is a main contributing factor to is massive drop in performance. Im not sure as of now what is contains. I know it has an older gen intel core i5. if needed please comment below. Thanks!
P.S. it used to be able to run most games such as GMOD, CSGO, TF2 ect. and its failing to run rust on potato settings!
Whats happening
Attempting to access most websites (ex imgur.com, 4chan, various small websites or repositories) results in a 'This sit can't be reached' page on my browser.
This is not browser specific, as it happens through Git to some private servers of mine and friends. Additionally, it is happening on my w10 PC, iphone 5S, Mac, and w8.1 laptop.
No changes have been made to my router or modem, and I've reconfigured them for good measure.
I have tried
flushing dns
good ol' reset-everything
reconfigure router/modem
changing our DNS servesr to Cloudflares and Googles.
Extra info
I can ping websites through the cmd, and receive replies. I can access these websites just fine by using my phone's roaming data, or through my PC by using my phone's hotspot.
Oddity: I cannot access imgur.com, however I can visit exact imgur links (ex http://www.imgur.com/someurl), and the phone app works fine.
Modem's logs claims we received a (suspected) DDoS attack a few hours ago. Don't know if that'd be related.
Why can I not see CNN's web archives on November 8, 2016?
I've recently upgraded a number of components on my computer and my hard drive has been making a sort of grinding sound. It's definitely from the hard drive, but it shows up clean after running SeaTools hard drive tests on it, it only made the sound during the 'short/long generic' test, but it did pass all of them.
It doesn't happen when idle, just when the HDD is reading or writing, not sure if its specifically one or both.
The HDD in question is a WD blue 2tb, and I'm on Windows 10 if that matters. I'm assuming it's not a good noise to be making, and I have a short video of the sound (if I knew how to post it), I would just like a second opinion before having to return it.
I had 2x4 GB, one of them died and I bought another 2x4 gb ram at a different speed. Here is the single one I have: https://imgur.com/a/Gyl7OQI
My last 8 GB of ram is two of these: https://imgur.com/a/Gyl7OQI
Is it ruining my pc performance? I have constant stutters in PUBG (with a GTX 970 and i5-4670k) and read that it could be related to ram. Am I better off running 2 of the same RAM modules at 8 GB, or all 3 at 12 gb? Running Windows 10 64-bit.
Okay, so I've been using my black Xbox One controller on my machine for a while, but when I synced it back up to my Xbox, then tried to go back and plug it in to my PC, it lights up, and then the home button blinks. I read that I could go to the device manager, find the controller, and then update the driver, but it's not even appearing there. When I go to the "Device and Printers" app, it shows the two different controllers I've used on it. It says the one I'm using is disconnected. (So is the other one) I've tried putting batteries in, then connecting it, but it doesn't work. Can anyone help? I have also tried unplugging the Xbox One, to see if it stop trying to sync to it, as I think that's what's going on.
I recently downloaded a soundtrack that has all the filenames in Japanese. I'd love to be able to use a bulk renaming program to translate it. I've used one that can take care of Hiragana and Katakana, but it doesn't touch the Kanji. I know Kanji has different meanings, so is this a lost cause?
Right now I can only connect to Facebook YouTube and yahoo.com and all the other devices on my network are working except for my main computer and it says ipv4 no internet connection in the network settings
I’ve got a Dell Inspiron 3169 running Windows 10 Home version 1709 build 16299.402. I’ve been having constant issues with LGS crashing on launch and anytime I go to the profile edit screen.
Peripherals I have plugged in: Logitech G810 Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum (The one with customizable RGB)
LGS is version 8.96, I already tried updating to 8.98, it crashes instantly on launch.
I’m at my wits end here, so I’ve come here after Logitech has sat on my ticket for a total of about a week
I use it as a redundancy backup for my work for the day. TIA.
Fans and graphics card spin/light up. Peripherals light up. But the VGA ez debug light flashes on and off. Monitor doesn’t work though I get a no signal.
Gtx980ti I7 6700k 16gb of ram Fractal Design Focus G Corsair 1000i Seagate 2tb HDD
Title. I've tried manually turning off the proxy settings but they keep changing back after each restart. I've ran Windows Defender, MalwareBytes, Hitmanpro, Adwcleaner, RKill, and others.
Windows explorer also takes hours to load; originally the virus changed the default windows explorer to a shitware program "Chameleon Explorer", as well as showing ads on Google Chrome. I've down a fresh install of Google Chrome and these seem to have disappeared, however I still get the startup changes.
What can I do to remove this? Desperately looking for help.
I took it out as quickly as possible turned it off and dryed it. Everything is functioning fine but I have heard it might seem ok but die in a few days. The front lens still has mousture but is clear enough for pics. Sim, memory card, sound, charging are ok. No freezing and everything seems to be fine.
I missed class last week due to illness, but sent my completed study guide to my professor so that I could still get credit for the assignment. I’m currently at work on a standby, so I went to the email I sent her to review the document as I have an exam on it tomorrow. When I went to do so, I realized I accidentally sent her the assignment instructions which I had downloaded onto my desktop, and not my completed assignment which I had also saved to my desktop. I just emailed her explaining the situation, but i’m wondering if there’s a way on google docs to show what I contributed to it and when so that she can see it was completed before the due date and that I’m not just trying to pull a fast one on her. Any insight would be appreciated!
Status: Unresolved
Computer Type: Desktop, custom built
GPU: MSI GTX 970, 4 GB of VRAM, no overclock
CPU: Intel i7 8700K, no overclock
Motherboard: ASUS Z370 Prime-A
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) 3000mhz, XMP enabled, no overclock
PSU: Corsair HX750i
Operating System & Version: Windows 10 build 1709 64bit, clean install
GPU Drivers: 391.35 - clean install after using DDU to remove version 397.31
Description of Problem: I have upgraded my PC and everything seems ok apart from my GPU. If I run testing tools such as FurMark, the GPU performs well. However, I've tried playing Football Manager 2018 and Just Cause 3 and the graphics are stuttering.
Troubleshooting: In NVIDIA control panel, I have set PhysX processor to be NVIDIA GTX 970. In Manage 3D settings, I have set Power Management to maximum performance. I have set texture filtering to performance.
In Football Manager 2018, I set graphics quality to Medium from high but it did not resolve the issue. I have used DDU to uninstall latest NVIDIA driver (397.31) and install the previously released driver. I have checked power cables to the GPU and reseated them.
So for google chrome whenever i try to search something up in the address bar or just use google directly it immediately redirects me to Bing.
I ran malwarebytes, antivirus, checked for newly installed programs and extensions and nothing came up, it was all clean.
I have two routers, a netgear WNR 614 and WGR 614. The first one is connected to a modem from the ISP. I need help in setting up the second one as a repeater. It was previously setup as a wireless repeater, which resulted in crappy speeds, but now I have a LAN cable between the two rooms. I followed this tutorial on wikihow but i can't get it to work.
Thanks!
Hey, I'm having a bit of trouble with my new ryzen build. I'm having a problem installing any operating system, when trying to install Windows 10 the BSOD messages I received were: stop code: memory_management, irql_not_less_or_equal. My Mobo is msi b350m pro-vdh and a single ram stick that is compatible with itCrucial 8GB 2400MHz DDR4 CL17 DIMM CT8G4DFS824. I have tried different dimm slots but that did not help, I have no extra components to test anything else, and next week is holidays so I'm stuck here with this issue. I did update my bios to the latest version and I've ran memtest which froze on first load and then showed 77 errors within 20minutes of the test. Memtest info https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZOqjlsYC4b9cqWf2nZ0qK9Xu-PbXavmvlynFrCfWRA4/edit?usp=drivesdk
Every game i play is fine with a stable 17-22ms but league of legends. I have ran a traceroute, reset and reconfig my router, reset ARP cache and i've tested it with other servers in the same location and it's fine. For some reason the LoL server takes a different route which is causing the lag. This is my tracert (windows 10) to Riot OCE server:
1 - <1 ms <1 ms <1 ms 192.168.0.1
2 - 4 ms 5 ms 4 ms meb1-l101.bng.optusnet.com.au [xxx.xxx.xxx.x]
3 - * * * Request timed out.
4 - * * * Request timed out.
5 - * * * Request timed out.
6 - 5 ms 5 ms 4 ms 59.154.142.230
7 - 5 ms 5 ms 6 ms 161.43.75.62
8 - 18 ms 21 ms 17 ms BE-150.cor02.mel07.vic.VOCUS.net.au [114.31.196.54]
9 - 18 ms 18 ms 17 ms Hu-0-0-0-1.cor02.syd04.nsw.VOCUS.net.au [114.31.192.114]
10 - 18 ms 18 ms 19 ms bundle-100.bdr01.syd01.nsw.VOCUS.net.au [114.31.192.51]
11 - 68 ms 65 ms 59 ms static-150.175.255.49.in-addr.VOCUS.net.au [49.255.175.150]
12 - 57 ms 58 ms 59 ms pr01.syd01.riotdirect.net [104.160.156.1]
I remember seeing an Electronic Notebook with some kind of buttons in the corners, so you could export your notes and drawings directly to your pc. I can't remember the name of it, but I found Rocketbook Wave on Unbox Therapy. It was like that, but with "buttons" you would draw on to activate, instead of a QR-code.
I need one for school, so I can write quick math equations and drawings, instead of doing it slowly on my pc.
Can anyone help me to detect what is wrong with my hardware? Almost all games crashes after 1 hour of playing. Fortnite even more regular (~20 mins).
Here is crashes reports from Fortnite:
https://paste.rtechsupport.org/view/1d261b2c
Thanks!!
I have an old latop which I've connected to an external monitor. For some reason, the external monitor turns on automatically even when the laptop indicates that it should be turned off.
Another problem that I've been facing is not being able to wipe all memory off of my old laptop due to some kind of error that says there was an error when wiping the system.
Please do provide me with some guidance on these issues and cheers for the help!
Hey all,
I bought this evo labs 500w power supply, I was wondering if there was a way of checking whether it will fry my motherboard or not. I don't want to run the risk of plugging it into the board.
(this is not optional, the bot removes it otherwise) this plagues me a lot, sometimes the icons are there other times they are not. It seems to happen whenever I shut down and start it up again. restarting sometimes fixes it, but not always. I have searched online finding nothing except unrelated articles.
Basically the idea is: -we have a project -it has to be done on pc -i can use necessery programs so, -i'm using pc -my friends are seeing it live on stream -we can comunicate on discord
What is the best way to do that? (low latnecy stream) Thanks for help.
I disabled updates using O&O Shutup 10 after the Fall update caused my PC to continuously BSOD.
So I rolled back and my PC works fine for ages, but then none of my apps work, be it Malwarebytes, games, VLC, nothing works.
I just keep getting this error:
"The procedure entry point memcpy_s could not be located in the dynamic link library C:\WINDOWS\System32\KERNELBASE.dll"
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Wndows 10 Pro, version 10.0.15063 Build 15063.
Issue: Screen flickers to a "frying" distortion at every 4 seconds interval.
My monitor, LG 23.8" 24MP59G, was working fine yesterday when gaming, it was not left running overnight, however upon turning it on again today, this issue crops up. [ Screen's Constant Distortion https://imgur.com/gallery/aL8E7LV ]
Attempts to resolve:
1) Disconnecting HDMI, the screen showed "no signal", however the distortion persisted still, hence I believe the monitor is faulty somehow.
2) Resetting all settings to default on the monitor, didn't work.
3) Disconnecting power supply from the screen and let it rest for at least 3 hours, issue still persist.
I barely work with this screen for more than 2 months, any advice is appreciated :(
by: /u/cuddlychops06 for /r/techsupport // Updated: September20th, 2017.
Changelog: 9/20/17 - Updated some screenshots, removed JRT recommendation - see below
If you suspect you are infected with Crypto malware (Cryptowall, Cryptolocker, TeslaCrypt, etc) DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.
Purpose & Scope of this Guide:
This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots. If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large scale. However, there will be times that this guide fails in removing malware. If that is the case, please make a post for further assistance, stating that this guide was unsuccessful. It is recommended to only accept advice from a “Trusted” technician. I am writing this guide in layman’s terms so that most people will be able to understand it with ease.
Disclaimer:
The following instructions are recommendations only. You take full responsibility for any steps you choose to perform on your computer. While the following recommendations are performed without issue on countless machines, there is always a risk of damaging your Operating System or experiencing data loss on any machine. It is solely YOUR responsibility to save all work and back up any and all important data on your system before proceeding. Also note that once a computer has been compromised with malware, it should not be considered clean until a complete reformat has taken place.
Malware Remediation Steps:
Before proceeding, go into your browser’s extensions and remove all suspicious items. Also go into your browser’s settings and remove any default search providers and unusual homepages. If you are unsure how to do this, proceed to Step 1.
Download and run the following tools in this order. Run all tools unless otherwise instructed. All tools should be run in Normal Mode (not Safe Mode) unless you are unable to boot Normal Mode, or the scans fail in Normal Mode. All tools must be run under an Administrator account. Do not remove any tool-generated logs in the event a helper needs you to post them to further assist you.
1) Run rkill.com. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to finish. Do not reboot when done.
Kills running malicious processes
Removes policies in the registry that prevent normal OS operation
Repairs file extension hijacks
2) Download an updated copy Malwarebytes 3.0. Turn on the “Scan for Rootkits” option. Then, run a “Scan”
3) Run Malwarebytes ADWCleaner using the “Scan” option.
NOTE: It is no longer necessary to run JRT. The JRT definitions have been rolled into ADWCleaner by Malwarebytes. JRT no longer provides additional benefit.
Optional, Advanced Step (only run if previous tools fail to solve problem):
4) Run Sophos HitmanPro
HitmanPro is a phenomenal "second-opinion" malware scanner.
Please note: If malware has prohibited you from browsing the web or downloading files, you can try running the NetAdapter Repair Tool with all options checked which will attempt to restore your internet connection & default browser settings. You may have to download these tools on another computer and move them to a flash drive that you can plug into the infected machine.
Have adware or spyware on your Mac?
Try Malwarebytes Anti-Malware for Mac (formerly Adware Medic). Please make a post if it is unsuccessful.
If you have run all of the above tools successfully, you should be malware-free. If you are still experiencing problems, please make a post in /r/techsupport for further assistance.
Follow-up Steps (highly recommended):
What is malware?
Malware is an umbrella term used to refer to a variety of forms of hostile or intrusive software, including computer viruses, worms, trojan horses, ransomware, spyware, adware, scareware, and other malicious programs. It can take the form of executable code, scripts, active content, and other software. [Source: Wikipedia.com]
How did I get infected?
It is difficult to track down the source of an infection. Most infections are actually given permission to run unknowingly by the user. It is recommended to keep User Account Control turned on and never give access to something you do not trust or did not open. Many other infections come via exploits in your browser or browser plug-ins on websites you visit. Always be very careful what you install. Make sure you trust the source implicitly. When downloading programs, always use the publisher’s website directly.
How to prevent future infections:
Be very careful what you download and install. Keep programs like Java & Flash up-to-date, but do so using their official websites or Ninite installers. Use Unchecky to prevent accidental installation of adware & spyware during product installations. Make sure Windows is kept up-to-date as well. Many Windows updates patch exploits and vulnerabilities in your operating system. Most infections are active because the user has unknowingly given it Administrative permission to install and run. The first line of defense starts with you.
The following tools will aide you in keeping your computer clean:
Free Anti-Virus Suggestions:
Helpful Tools:
It's an online application on a university's website which I spent hours on. It says you can log out and continue anytime, which I did last night and it worked, but this morning the text from a specific section was all gone, but the previous sections (pages) retained the text.
I tried searching for many things but I can't find a solution
Hi guys, i have a Lenovo Y520-15IKBN (80WK) and certain keys on the keyboard don't work (e,g,h,8,9,Fn...) but only when the weather is cold. for example in the winter it used to work after certain amount of time when i first boot the laptop and stops working when i stop using it for a while, but now that the weather is hot it works just fine except for the first couple of minutes or when its colder. of course i do realise that it has nothing to do with the outside weather but with the temperature of the computer itself. can someone explain to me why this is happening and how it should be fixed as i cannot take it to the tech service until july even though it's still under warranty because i need it for school. ps: an external keyboard works fine.
So I have a website running on a lamp stack on Ubuntu 16.04.
I have two vhosts files...
000-default.conf:
<VirtualHost *:80> ServerName www.example.co.uk ServerAdmin admin@example.co.uk DocumentRoot /var/www/html/ ErrorLog ${APACHE_LOG_DIR}/site-a_error.log CustomLog ${APACHE_LOG_DIR}/site-a_access.log combined </VirtualHost>
And moodle.example.co.uk.conf:
<VirtualHost *:80> ServerName moodle.example.co.uk ServerAdmin admin@example.co.uk DocumentRoot /var/www/moodle.example.co.uk/public_html ErrorLog ${APACHE_LOG_DIR}/site-b_error.log CustomLog ${APACHE_LOG_DIR}/site-b_access.log combined </VirtualHost>
If I go to www.example.co.uk then I see the home page. Exactly as expected.
However if I go to moodle.example.co.uk I still see the homepage not the page stored in the DocumentRoot specified.
If I add a ServerAlias directive to the Moodle conf then it works fine.
Why does the ServerName directive not work?
So my Pc corrupted and I had to fresh install windows on it, but now its missing 3 drivers and one of them is for the Ethernet controller! I've tried searching everywhere for the windows 7 drivers but all I seem to find are some dodgey programs saying they will install it for me. Problem is without the ethernet driver I can't bloody connect to the internet.
I've been using a USB to try get some drivers on there, but they just end up being useless programmes .
I'm also a bit of a noob at these things, I don't understand where to find the names of things in my PC, I've opened it up but I don't understand whats significant and what isnt.
If someone has the drivers and can teach me how to install them I'd be very appreciative!
He’s sitting next to a fan right now cradling the router in his arms and hoping he dosent owe me 230 dollars.
So, only websites that work for me are Google and YouTube, and it's only on chrome. It won't connect to any other website. I ran win diagnostics and it said "website is online but isn't responding to connection attempts". Only my computer has this problem, there are three phones in the house and all work fine. Also steam chat works for some reason. Searched online, nothing helps, did ipconfig commands 10 times, no proxy settings, default DNS, ran safe mode, still doesn't work. Same thing happened about a month ago, had to re install windows completely, IT guy said it's viruses, now I haven't downloaded anything suspicious.
Is there any solution or should I get a new computer? (I'm broke, plz send solutions)
Randomly while using it my PC's screens went black and I had to shut it down. Now when I turn it on, the lights kick on and the fans spin but it never seems to get anywhere, just stays like that. I'm mostly sure it's a graphics card issue as none of the ports on it work, but I don't have intergrated graphics to test. I think my PC is booting into memtest from my boot menu and just staying there. If it was my CPU the pc wouldn't boot to begin with, right? Thanks in advance.
Hi guys
Recenly iv been playin ac origins on my pc without any issues, but few days ago it started to perform badly, i checked the temps and the cpu went to 100c and gpu 60-70c. I'v changed the thermal paste, and the temps went back to 35c.
Now when i turn on pc, its on 35-40c, but in about half hour will go to 85-93c...
Here's a photo of my current cooling fan before changing paste;
Yea its dusty i know. It was my first time changing thermal paste and i didnt want to damage the parts...
If ill clean the dust could it fix it? Should i buy a new cooling/liquid cooling and throw the corrent one?
What is my best solution here? Thank you.
Here's my specs: Gtx 970 I5 4430 8gb ram Windows 10
So this is a bit of a strange one, and has me extremely confused, so I'll try and explain the best I can. Essentially, whenever I open reddit in my browser, my computer loses connection to the internet (but still shows that I am connected) and most things become unresponsive. I can move other windows around slightly, and then they go unresponsive. While this is happening, I usually can't open the start menu, and even when I do, I can't restart my PC from there, so I have to do it from the tower. I can ctrl + alt + del, but, when it eventually works, I get stuck on a "Please Wait" screen. One more thing I've noticed, is my tower making a strange noise while this is happening. Normally when I shut it down, it make a certain noise just before it turns off, and that's the noise it makes.
I havnt been able to replicate it with any other site. Normally when I have problems like this, they fix themself, but this is too annoying. And help is much appreciated. I'll make a video of it, if needed.
So, I have an Asus x201e, and its specs are as follows:
"Processeur Intel B847, Mémoire RAM 2 Go, Type de mémoire RAM installée DDR3, Carte graphique Intel HD Graphics, Mémoire vidéo dédiée 2048 Mo"
I want to upgrade my CPU and RAM, can I actually do that?
hey guys new pc this week but I can't really game on it competitively because my system seems to be stuttering often. like once every 2-5 seconds I get frame drops to the point I can no longer play games or even watch youtube videos comfortably.
| gtx970 | 16gb RAM DDR4 | i7-8700k |
|---|
I haven't found any fixes that work, I have updated all the drivers I can and windows is running on the most recent patch.
So I recently bought a pc with a i7 8700k, asus maximus x hero, 16 gb ddr4 ram ... I want to buy a gtx 1080ti but the prices are really really expensive at this moment so im waiting for the prices to drop. I have a gtx 760 from my old pc and the question is if I can use it with the i7 8700k because of course it bottlenecks it but is that bad for the cpu? Can I have problems with the cpu if i use the gtx 760?
Ok guys this one has me stumped. Turned my laptop off the other day and it was just fine, well yesterday i turned it on and get nothing but a black screen, i have tried taking the battery out doing the whole pressing down power button for 60 secs. I also took the ram out to see if the laptop beeped but this laptop has never beeped in the 5 years i owned it. I also tried to hook a hdmi cable to laptop to tv and still black laptop screen also nothing on tv. What else do i need to try cause i am freaking out that i am gonna have to buy a new laptop. (everything comes on cdrom,hard drive boots and etc) but the laptop screen remains black.)
I'm running a game server on the machine, which means that every online player will experience lag while I connect, and sometimes they are kicked from the server due to the lag.
I have tested it on two different networks and two different devices. What could be wrong?
Very recently, my monitor has started to go black for a second. It happens around 2-3 times a day.
I have no idea why that might be happening... Hope I can get some pointers here.
Hi, I factory reset my pc and used media creation to boot from a usb that all worked but every time I want to install a program I message comes up “your organisation used window defender application control to block this app”
I have turned off windows defender still nothing , also turned of secure boot.
Any help please
A few days ago my internet suddenly stopped working. At first the router didn't even see the cable so I called up my isp. They said that there was a problem in the area and they will fix it immediately. So they fixed it and sent me a message saying that it should start working within 24 hours. Well, it's been 3 days since they said that. On their end everything works fine.
Here are some pictures of my router settings.
Hi, recently upgraded my CPU and whilst I had my PC apart I decided to give it a blast of air to get rid of all the dust that had built up. In doing so I went to spray the CPU socket (minus the CPU) and the nozzle blew off the can an smacked into the pins! After much swearing and sweating I managed to return the bent pins back to their former positions and powered on and got to the BIOS post screen where it asked me to confirm setting for the new CPU.
I did this and all seemed well, it rebooted, the bios posted and recognized the new CPU and then went on to start loading Windows. Suddenly it told me there was a problem with my PC (win 10 BSOD) and it then showed a screen where it said it was repairing errors on the disk. So I leave it for over 3 hours but nothing seems to be happening.
I restart the PC and it boots past the BIOS fine and goes into recovery mode. I try resetting Windows but then it says "There was a problem resetting Windows. No changes were made."
So I think great I've bricked my SSD. I decided to try it out in my laptop and switched the SSD's over, and see that the SSD from my PC is not even being seen at all by my laptop. I then decide to just quickly try my laptops SSD in my PC, and for some reason the BIOS shows it connected to SATA1 fine but strangely will not boot from it and it tries to boot from CD...
This worries me, so I switch it back into the laptop, but it is fine and it boots into Windows with no problems. Hmmm.
Now this is very strange to me. I have my PC's SSD which is recognized by my PC and it even tries to repair it, but is not seen at all by my laptop. And then I have my laptop SSD which I know works fine (I'm using it to make this post) but will not work in my PC (even though the BIOS detects it fine).
Now I am on the verge of ordering a new SSD and Motherboard (because of the bending pins incident) but I am just wondering if anybody here can shed some light on what the hell is going on? Have I created a short in the CPU socket? Has it fried my SSD and SATA connections on my motherboard? I am really really confused...
I just want hearts of iron 2 mods
Western Digital drive:
Hitachi drive:
If the reallocation event count is higher than the threshold, how is the drive OK? I understand very little about these stats, aside from what I looked up. How is the raw value all zeroes, but the current value is 100? Not getting that. I hope someone more experienced can help explain this.
So for the past month I have been getting messages to download an update from windows. I say no or hide every time, because when I say yes it downloads for about an hour than stops and says it is not compatible or something of that nature. Finally after a month of pissing me off it manages to stop my game and make me accidently click restart now. I shut it down about 3% into downloading not wanting to waist an hour. It shuts down and I start up again, then it says restoring old version of windows. After its done it goes the windows loading screen and just when it's supposed to open up my login screen the pc starts the process again (shows mother board name, proceeds to windows loading, supposed to show login screen but then goes back to mother board name and starts over.) I mashed some keys once and it asked me to choose a booting device and when I selected the one availavle it said no booting devices available. Now it is in a continuous loop or logging in and idk what to do especially since my options are limited (I go to a boarding school). I tried unplugging and replugging in devices inside the pc and restarting the computer someone please help.
The monitor is plugged in to the vga. Fans and graphics card spin/light up. Peripherals light up. But the VGA ez debug light flashes on and off. Monitor doesn’t work though I get a no signal.
Gtx980ti I7 6700k 16gb of ram Fractal Design Focus G Corsair 1000i Seagate 2tb HDD
Up until a few days ago, I used the android apps "ES File Explorer" and "aWARemote" to browse my desktop and control Winamp media player, respectively.
Now, the desktop doesn't show up in my device list when scanning the network, and the aWARemote server from the desktop isn't detected through the app.
The desktop is connected to the modem via ethernet cable, but again, this was no problem until a few days ago.
Network Sharing settings are the same as my wireless laptop, which my devices pick up with no issue. All suggestions are appreciated!
Solution: Went the nuclear route, cleared all devices from the AT&T modem settings and rebooted the modem itself. Both android devices ended up getting new IPs and can now detect both the dekstop + laptop.
I have an IPad Pro and have a weird problem when loading web sites via WiFi. It randomly refuses to load websites (safari and chrome do same) just hangs and eventually fails saying connection problem. However, I can instantly make it load the given site by forcing the browser to close and reopening it and 99% of the time the page loads instantly. If it was a connection issue why can I guarantee loading the page with this method. This hanging loading bs is happening every few minutes sometimes- - close browser, reopen and bang works perfect then fails randomly soon after. Is it a router setting problem or something? I have BT Infnity in UK.
I have zero issues on my desktop PC which is Ethernet connected.
It is driving me insane. Thanks for any help.
The laptop monitor works fine, and this only happens if the laptop hibernates. When I open my laptop lid, the ASUS boot logo shows on my laptop monitor, then my lock screen pops up on the external. It's not a huge inconvenience, but it is very annoying. At the moment, my fix is to close and open my laptop again, which then seems to register it, but then all the windows that I had open to specific displays are crowded onto my laptop monitor and I have to reorganize them. I can't think of what's causing this and all the solutions I have (closing and reopening laptop, unplugging external monitor before opening laptop) cause the same issue with windows all returning to one screen.
Any thoughts on how to resolve this issue?
Current bios setting do not fully support the boot device
Windows 10 Mobo Asus h81m plus CPU g3258 dual core (Overclockable) GPU AMD HD 7450 MEM 4gb ram
Hello there, I'm just wondering if when you are plugging in the front panel connectors if the orientation of the plus and minus hdd led and whatever else matter like does where it says what it is need to be pointing in a certain direction?
I am using windows 8.1, I ran into this issue a little while ago and restarting my computer would fix the high memory usage, but it continued occuring and I started looking for a more permament fix.
After some research it seemed that if you had another AV software, Windows Defender would disable itself. I already had Malwarebytes installed, but I reinstalled just in case something was messed up. This didn't work, so I ran full scans with both defender and malwarebytes to rule out actual malware, but my computer turned up clean.
I then started looking for ways to disable defender. A lot of online guides showed a way to disable defender through the program itself under the administrator tab, but I had no such option. I tried putting MSMOENG in the executable exclusion zone, I tried disabling through the task scheduler with no effect, I tried disabling though regedit but was unable to edit any values.
I thought I was unable to disable it through group policies since I could not open or find the group policies editor, but I was able to download this file and run it to disable the program though group policy. This is the tutorial that contained the .reg file. This worked initially but after a few hours antimalware service executable was back to hogging memory. I checked to see if defender had not been successfully disabled, but I was still disabled through group policy. I restarted to see if that would fix it again.
Its currently sitting at 312.5mb and 0% everything else. Is there any other ways to stop this program from running? Or are there any other, more drastic fixes I can consider?
I've replaced a couple hard drives in the last few years, but I'm not a pro or anything. I'd just like to know if there is any reason I wouldn't be able to buy this laptop, pull out the HDD, and install this SSD instead. Thank you in advance for the help.
Three days ago somebody cut a hard line while doing construction. Even after it was reported to be fixed our modems internet light is flashing red/green. I live in the country and centurylink has a monopoly out here. Their customer service rivals Comcast for worst. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? They are in no rush to get a tech out here.
Hello. I was wondering if there is a way I can increase my vram of my intel hd graphics 4000?
At some point and out of nowhere my pc started laggin and having FPS drops in every game I played while being really loud. It’s been like this for over a week or two. Today I downloaded core temp and I noticed that my cpu was at 100 degrees max at start and it would drop really slowly to 60-70 when I was literally not doing anything on it, and as soon as I move my mouse it would just go up again. I tried resetting bios to default but did nothing. Also, the high temp didn’t automatically shut down my pc for some reason.
I don’t have stock cooler but ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 240. It’s an i7 7700k, I’m kinda scared I broke it ;L
My laptop drivers arent working properly,ive tried about 10 different versions of drivers and all of them give this error after restarting so i have to go into safe mode and uninstall the drivers every time i restart,what do i do? I have an amd a8 6410 apu with radeon r5 graphics. I can use the pc fine after uninstalling the (broken?)drivers except for playing games,which is what im trying to do.
Amd catalyst,relive,adrenaline are different applications i have downloaded but none make a difference,any advice/help on what to do?
Hi, title says it all really.
My internet is usually at a solid 100MBps with 8-10 Ping, and 9-11 Upload.
However today my Download speed cannot get past 2 MBps! I have tried rebooting the modem, re-inserting my USB adapter, I have the latest software also.
I have wondered maybe I caught something whilst trying to watch a film last night on Solarmovies, (bad boy, I know), but I doubt it.
Any help is appreciated.
How does this works? I know many Android phones support this and does the phone just increase the input of electricity? I have a Galaxy S7 edge and it supports quick charge but I've been using a wall adaper that does not support it. Does it damage my phone when I'm charging with said wall adapter?
My computer is crashing repeatedly whenever I have a game running. It freezes into a random solid color screen and fails to respond. I recorded GPU temps during a freeze and the last recorded temp before the freeze while running 2 windows of EVE Online was 76 degrees C which is well within reason for GPU temps.
I wasn't recording CPU temps during the crash but I did monitor them and never saw any unusual numbers.
What I've tried so far:
Clean install of graphics driver
windows defender virus scan
memtest86, no errors found
monitoring of GPU and CPU temps, not overheating
Trying other games (crashed playing PUBG too)
chkdsk
looking for crash dumps, none recorded according to Who Crashed
What I can't try:
swapping out a graphics card, I don't have any back ups or extras.
My brand new acer aspire E15 comes with a NVIDIA GEFORE 940MX and intel core i5 7th gen. On reviews benchmarking games, i see the guy getting 140fps on minecraft whereas on mine, im only getting 30-40fps. When i click f3, i see it says its using the intel hd graphics 620. How do i get higher fps and use the nvidia geforece 940mx to boost my fps on minecraft?
Current build:-
O/S: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Enterprise N
CPU: i7-930
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R v2
Ram: 12GB
~
New Kit:-
CPU: i7 4790K
Motherboard: MSI Z97I GAMING AC
Ram: 12GB
~
In an ideal world, I would like to just pull my drives from my current build and plonk them in with the new kit then boot up. Alas I know this is not possible. Are there any tried and tested methods of converting a boot/system drive from MBR to GPT without data loss?
OK bear with me I'm dealing with a strange phenomenon. And before you disregard my problem as "bro Wifi is just slow get an Ethernet cable lol" hear me out please!
I've got a new router, has the latest and greatest 802.11ac capabilities. And I have a 100Mbps down 10Mbps up DSL connection.
The WiFi is great. I can transfer files between my Notebook (Wifi) to my Desktop (Ethernet) at over 30MegaBYTES per second (~240Mbit/s). Even between my Notebook and another Notebook on the same network.
However, accessing anything from the internet, the WiFi is a lot slower. Obviously the upper limit would be my internet connection (100Mbps), but I'm not even getting close that. Sometimes I get 40Mbps, sometimes only 10. I tried at least 10 different speedtests, downloading files from high speed servers, downloading from Steam, it's all the same.
The internet connection itself is good, too, though, because via Ethernet I get the full 100Mbps, all the time.
Edit: Its a TP link router with OpenWrt/LEDE btw
I have a Seagate 3TB external HDD, one that needs a power supply.
It recently stopped working. When I plug it into the computer the machine recognizes it but I can't traverse past the root folder. When I try to go into a folder the entire computer freezes and I have to reboot.
I have tried formatting it, I have plugged it into a Linux system and tried to format it, I have tried using Seagates HDD tools.
My next step is to take the HDD out of the enclosure to see if there's a connector problem. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Is that normal? Just wondering if this is a bad sign about its future reliability- I have 2 others that have been fine. I defraged and ran error checks and it comes back fine. Thanks
Is there such a thing as a robust HDMI cable or are products claiming to be just sneak oil?
I've obviously had a Google for them but i can't decide if there is a real difference or just the seller BSing to make the sale.
I run a laptop that get jiggled around and moved around a lot, so i tend to go through HDMI cables because they tend to break in one manner or another. Ideally, i would like to purchase a cable and at least have it for 6 months - one year before it breaks.
Any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/dHCxbrp
now i broke the laptop monitor a few months ago and i used it like before only difference i use an hdmi to hook it up a tv, now i found out my pc is capable of 64 bit i wanna reinstall winows but i cant cuz the bios doesnt appear on the tv it only connects to the tv when the os starts. help.
