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I am having connection issues with two websites and I just can't seem to figure out where the issue is. So at about 8 to 10pm every night my connection to Twitch.tv drops dramatically, it goes down to about 1200 to 2000 Kbps. Being as it happens almost like clockwork this tells me the path to the site is congested. During this time I can connect to every other website I've tested just fine though, no slow down issues at all. This makes me think there is a node somewhere that is at capacity. I run a trace route to live.twitch.tv and it goes perfectly, I connect to their servers in 40 milliseconds, and there is never any ping spikes. None of the hops show any kind of latency. When I run a speed test on speedtest.net it shows my connection is fine. Same with Fast.com. When I use testmy.net though, it shows the slow down. No hops show obvious congestion and only two websites are affected, my initial thought now is a node must be close to capacity and activates some sort of throt...

Original post: http://ift.tt/2sgalLF After exchanging both the ram with and cpu with different (working) replacements, I have come to realize this isn't a CPU/GPU/RAM issue. Now I'm at a loss. Still having the same issue of starting the computer (fans, lights and all) just to not have it display whatsoever. Thest code is "53" which evga states is a memory failure (where the mobo can't identify the memory). Now I'm thinking it's a possible motherboard issue? Only other things I could think of we're my hard drives or PSU... If anyone can help me out that would be great. I spent over $1k on this computer in the last year....(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻) Submitted June 01, 2017 at 08:26AM by MizzouDude http://ift.tt/2rGYvgE

Some idiot microwaved my phone for a couple seconds, it was shut off. Froze it for a little bit and now it is temporarily working. Is this permanent? Is there any permanent fix? Phone is an HTC one btw... Submitted June 01, 2017 at 08:45AM by aman601 http://ift.tt/2rGTNzs

Hi all, I've noticed for the past few months that my PC is extremely sluggish for the first few minutes after I turn it on. I'm a pretty experienced PC user so I've gone through the usual steps of making sure I have few startup processes (I only have Google Drive, Dropbox, Sophos Antivirus, and Logitech SetPoint to start on boot) and I've done a disk defrag too (my disk is barely fragmented). I also did a scan for malware and my PC is 100% clean. I'm out of things to try now and it's getting pretty unbearable how slow my PC gets every time I turn it on. My PC specs: Processor: i5-4440 GPU: AMD Radeon HD 8570 RAM: 8GB Does anyone have any suggestions I can take to try and make my computer faster on boot? Submitted June 01, 2017 at 07:20AM by meowmeowaww http://ift.tt/2sphuZo

i have no idea how to fix it i search at internet so much and still can't find help! this happen with all browsers Submitted June 01, 2017 at 07:13AM by adullah_94 http://ift.tt/2qCHZxR

Official Malware Removal Guide by: /u/cuddlychops06 for /r/techsupport // Updated: April 06th, 2017.   If you suspect you are infected with Crypto malware (Cryptowall, Cryptolocker, TeslaCrypt, etc) DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.   Purpose & Scope of this Guide: This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots . If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large scale. However, there will be times that this guide fails in removing malware. If that is the case, pl...

Every now and then a command prompt box will appear on my screen, tabbing me out of whatever i'm doing. There is no text in it, and it's on the screen for such a short period of time that i was barely able to see that its origin was in my program files somewhere. I'm using a Lenovo ThinkPad with Windows 8. I'm a poor college student and it's getting awkward when i'm doing a presentation and this little box pops up and brings it out of full screen Submitted June 01, 2017 at 06:46AM by Repigilican http://ift.tt/2rm6hcJ

So basically my laptop is running very slowly and I was wondering if I could get any tips to free up some space and make it run faster. I have an Acer Aspire AMD Dual Core Processor C-50 / AMD Radeon HD 6250 / 2GB DDR3 Memory / 320 GB HDD. To show you how much I know about computers, I read that off the sticker on my laptop. I've ran CCleaner and Disk Cleanup and also Disk Defragmenter, it did help a little but it's still slow. I also deleted most of the stuff in the libraries folder. No videos, few pictures and no word documents or the like. I've had this computer for 5 or 6 years now, and Ive downloaded stuff over the years and deleted stuff as well. (I don't know what needs to be on the computer and what doesn't anymore) In the interest of full disclosure the only game I have on my laptop is World of Warcraft which runs terribly slow. Again any tips and tricks would be much appreciated! Submitted June 01, 2017 at 05:36AM by raebreJ http://ift.tt/2qCDKCr

So this morning I woke up to thousands upon thousands of spam emails. They accomplished their goal, which was hiding the email confirmation that comes from buying things on Amazon. Lucky for me, when this item shipped, I got a push notification on my phone from the Amazon app. The item in question was also hidden in my archived orders, so that when I check my account I couldn't find it. So I called Amazon and they said they are looking into it, and are putting a hold on everything, so I can't open my account any more, and neither can anyone else. I hope that the item they shipped, which was considerably expensive, has a hold put on it or something. I have very little skin in the game, because they had the item ordered was on warrantee. They ordered it as a replacement. I also checked my bank account and no money was withdrawn so I am good there for now. So here is my question: is there ANYTHING I can do to keep my email address? or am I correct in assuming that I need to ma...

Last night before I went to bed, everything was fine. This morning, however, I opened up google chrome and found that I was blocked from nearly every website I've tried to access. I use Bootcamp on a Mac Pro Tower, my OS X mirror running the most recent version Yosemite and the Windows parallel running on Windows 7, but I primarily use windows. When I tried connecting to backpack.tf, a website used for pricing and listing items for an online game, a window popped up telling me that the domain had been blocked due to content filtering. (This can be seen in the first image.) This also happened when I tried looking up websites to see if anyone else had this problem, telling me they had been categorized as a foruming site. When I tried accessing websites like YouTube or Reddit, it told me that my connection isn't private and that attackers might be trying to steal my information. It says that the certificate authority is invalid. (This can be seen in the second image.) I have n...

Device works fine in "extender mode". Ran a network cable from master wifi router to EX3800. For some reason EX3800 will not function after I tell it to run in AP mode. Additionally once cable is connected the entire wireless network goes down. Once I disconnect cable and reboot EX3800 all goes back to normal. Ideas? Submitted June 01, 2017 at 02:16AM by skeedaddle001 http://ift.tt/2sol7i4

PC Specs i5 6600k MSI Krait 3x 16GB DDR4 GTX 970 2TB HDD EVGA 600B 600W PSU For a while now, (since Feb 2017), computer has been freezing up during use, either after a restart, or while using, any random time, the only solution I've found so far is the restart my computer, but sometimes this is met with No Boot device found, which is combated by unplugging my HDD and plugging it back in, but sometime computer will freeze straight after a restart. Ran Seatools, (Since it's a Barracuda), no issues on any of the tests, couple of times windows booted into disk check but still nothing. Thermals are ok, (granted it's summer,and around 20c outside), idle is around 35c on GPU, and Core Temp shows around 42c, no idea if CPU temp is accurate, as all differs slightly over applications, and BSOD has happened a couple of times, giving CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED, tried the solutions of driver updates etc, but all are up to date, last time this happened computer refused to turn on and had ...

I just wanted to ask if it's possible to connect the controller to my pc a second time after connecting it the first time, while the driver exists. When I do want to do that, the only method I know is removing the controller's drive, and do a setup for the controller again. This is time consuming and kinda wonky, because removing and adding drives all the time causes errors sometimes. Is it possible to directly connect the controller to my PC without going over this process all over again ? Submitted June 01, 2017 at 01:23AM by Dismistri http://ift.tt/2qBIU1t

Whenever i leave my pc untouched for more than 5 minutes, I come back to a very hot room with all fans turning on full speed. If I leave it for longer it starts smelling burnt. After I move the mouse, the pc freezes for a 5-10 seconds in which all screen turn black, after that it works as normal and the temperatures drop again. Does anyone know why this is happening and how I can prevent it from happening again? Submitted June 01, 2017 at 01:42AM by FunkAvenue http://ift.tt/2rlfmTe

Hey /r/techsupport , cross-posting from the Microsoft support forums in hopes maybe someone here might be able to help me out: http://ift.tt/2so94RO Recently I've started having BSODs occur while running games, and more infrequently at random times when the PC is not really under any load. These have been consistently DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION, IRQL_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL, BAD_OBJECT_HEADER, and a few other less frequent stop codes. I'm now able to pretty consistently recreate the crash by running a game of Overwatch, usually with 3 games I'll BSOD with one of these stop codes. I've tried a series of debugging methods so far: Memtest86, found no errors, also did the RAM DIMM slot shuffle, again finding no issues... Replaced the RAM anyway, No change. Reinstalled Windows on a series of different physical hard drives and one SSD, no change. Replaced the motherboard entierly (after my machine started throwing these same errors while trying to install windows from a...

So I have two drives, and I want to install Linux on one and Windows on the other. I don't want the Windows installation to be able to access anything on the Linux drive. I know I could encrypt the drive, but I'd rather avoid the performance hit and potential backup/recovery problems, and instead physically isolate the drives. I found this: Duplus DUP-35 Hard Drive Power Switch/Selector which seems perfect, but unfortunately it is out of stock and I can't find it anywhere else. I've found some other controllers like KINGWIN HDD-PS6 Hard Drive Power Switch but it is not quite what I'm looking for, I'd rather have a toggle rather than being able to power a number of different drives. Submitted June 01, 2017 at 12:57AM by Andrewsk1 http://ift.tt/2sobbFu

OS: Windows 10 I don't remember installing anything in the past few days, but for about a week now, I've been seeing this black window (could be the CMD console but I'm not sure) just opening and closing too fast for me to even notice any text in it. It will even minimize my games when playing on full screen. Happens every ~3 hours or so. I checked the task manager, performance monitor, event viewer to see if I can pick up any activity, and nothing suspicious shows up (or so it seems to me). Any thoughts? Submitted June 01, 2017 at 01:50AM by gcruzatto http://ift.tt/2rq4rcX

MS Office 2013. Both computers Windows10. Two users working in Excel, they each have the same document open and are editing it, they have Share Workbook enabled to allow both to make changes and save them. File type 'Excel 97-2003 workbook'. File is stored on a network share. Randomly while working, one of them goes to hit save and all of a sudden the file is gone and it closes from the other user's screen. The user who hit save just gets a an error saying the file no longer exists\is not at the location. This has happened two times regarding two different documents. It is not virus related, the files are not hidden, and they are not seen as unsaved documents so it not possible to recover them. I have not been able to re create the issue in a controlled test document. Anyone have any idea's on the cause? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:20PM by anonymous9a http://ift.tt/2qH68hX

I recently upgraded graphics card and ever since I did I have been having very weird things happen during gaming. 1) My game will completely close almost like I have ALT+F4'd, games like Golf with friends has closed on me twice today, quake live works perfectly and Dead by Daylight work fine. 2) I've even had my computer shut off completely when I was Playing PlayerUnknown's Battlegrounds, when I turn it back on its absolutely fine though, until that is I play games again.. 3) I will get weird mouse movement lag with my curser after closing a game(if I get that far lol) 4) I get strange stutters during gameplay, itll pause for like 5 seconds randomly then resume like nothing has happened, like a 5 second lag/freeze spike. I ran a few benchmark apps after I installed my new GPU, the first time the PC completely shut off after 5minutes but I tried it again and kept it on for about 30minutes without any problems. Also tried it three times since then and no issues at all....

Hi. I have a 7 year old Windows 8 PC (i7, 16GB RAM, ASUS motherboard, 4 HDD, Random graphics card, Enermax Modu82+ PSU, Firewire Soundcard, and expensive fancy PCIe Audio thing) and it's suddenly started freezing when I run audio programs (ie: Ableton); I have to hold the power button down for five seconds to turn the PC off. Ran about 5 instances of MEMTEST and no issues were reported. I'm assuming one of the major components will need to be replaced, but which one is most likely? Thanks for reading this :) Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:54PM by aimredditman http://ift.tt/2rpv5Td

IT admins have a challenging role, charged with securing corporate assets while providing employees with tools that are fast, intuitive and accessible from anywhere. Chrome OS is designed and built with security at its core, from Trusted Platform Module (TPM) chips on all hardware, sandboxing of software, and Chrome browser security, endpoints across your organization are secure from boot to shutdown. The multiple security layers of Chrome OS work together as part of a cohesive security approach, including automatic updates to provide protection on a recurring basis without disrupting your work. Today we’re sharing a closer look at how automatic Chrome OS software updates maintain ongoing security of the platform and devices. Unlike most other computing platforms, Chrome OS devices always have two images of the system software on separate partitions. This approach serves two purposes. First, there’s no disruption to your work because you can keep working while the backup version i...

Has anyone heard about this ransomware during mcafee installation? Had a customer come in saying during installation it said he entered an invalid product key to please contact mcafee and resolve the issue then proceeded to remote access his computer and start to install Superantivirus pro security software. Terrible that we have to be careful using big name products such as mcafee and Microsoft office. Any ideas or suggestions on this? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:50PM by CrysisDemon http://ift.tt/2qBFXdf

I have connected my HP laptop with Windows 10 to my Samsung tv. The TV is at HDMI2 which is the port I put the cord into. In display settings my computer doesn't find a second display. I changed resolutions but that did nothing. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:59PM by AncientSicarius http://ift.tt/2rV4vBV

So apparently its been 1 year since I built my rig and about 4 months ago two of my stock intel cooler heatsink pushpins broke, and I gave no thought to it and just let the others push into the mobo and there was little pressure between the cpu and heatsink, however it was only yesterday that I installed a temp monitor as for the past few months I felt that the chasis of my pc got hot while gaming, and found out my intel i5 444 idles at 70c with no programs open, I ordered a cooler for it with a proper heatsink however, I'm so stupid my cpu is probably messed up rn, is there anyway I can check the damage done to it and how much estimated lifespan does it have left? Thanks. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:02PM by ssid_broadcast http://ift.tt/2qBRrOb

So if I turn on MSAA in any game i get artifacting. For example, in R6S if I use Temporal Filtering (renders the game at half resolution and applies 2xMSAA) I get weird artifacting on pulse's scanner. At 4xMSAA+, my game just shows square artifacts in diagonal lines and the game crashes. This doesn't happen with no drivers. This has been happening for around 4-6 months, and I'm sick of it. Some apps use MSAA by default and I can't use them. I tried using no drivers, and everything works fine, but sometimes my game just hangs up and i gotta force restart my PC. I don't think any new drivers will fix this since this has been happening for so long. Specs Mobo:ASUS B85M-G R2.0 CPU: i5-4690k Gpu: MSI Rx480 RAM: 8gb DDR3 1333mhz PSU: EVGA White 500w Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:44PM by vengerad47 http://ift.tt/2rVdKSB

Hey guys! I have a question regarding overclocking my processor. I have an AMD FX 4300 Quad Core Processor 3.80GHz. Yes, I know my processor is outdated. I plan on upgrading to an i7 this summer, I was just going to get an entirely new motherboard and case when I did this. But, for the time being. Would overclocking this processor improve my gaming performance for the time being? If so, how exactly would I go about this? Thanks. tl;dr is it worth overclocking AMD 4300 Quad-Core, and if so how do I do this? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:49PM by ValueYourTime http://ift.tt/2qBsmmt

I have a GTX 1070M, an Intel Core i7-6700HQ Processor, Windows 10, and I run on an ASUS brand. I have only recently have been having trouble with FPS. I mainly play CS:GO, Overwatch, and H1Z1:KOTK and have recently dropped a lot of fps. For example, I was playing Overwatch at like 120 FPS on high settings and then all of a sudden, I got like 60-70 on low settings. It doesnt seem that bad to play games on low settings but I have a pretty good processor and graphics card and it seems weird that it just dropped all of a sudden. I've tried letting my computer sit, turned off, on my desk for a day or so and nothing. I've deleted a bunch of stuff and that hasn't helped. I don't know what else to do. Leave any recomendations if you have any Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:06PM by KangarooBandet http://ift.tt/2rp8vdv

I had a problem with permissions in windows 10 fucking up the search indexer. I found someone with the similar problem who fixed his problem with "Permissions Time Machine" (to reset all permission to default) It worked but I then restarted and got greeted with http://ift.tt/2se5z1c Everything in windows is missing text, desktop icons, windows explorer, context menu, cmd.exe. The only text I can see is from web browsers and windows metro UI apps (as you can see in the screen shot) Any help is appreciated. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:48PM by Skodd http://ift.tt/2snbzUn

I have re-assembled and rewired all my parts, and the problem still persists. Any more things to diagnose, and methods? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:12PM by _takerru http://ift.tt/2rp4GEW

IT admins have a challenging role, charged with securing corporate assets while providing employees with tools that are fast, intuitive and accessible from anywhere. Chrome OS is designed and built with security at its core, from Trusted Platform Module (TPM) chips on all hardware, sandboxing of software, and Chrome browser security, endpoints across your organization are secure from boot to shutdown. The multiple security layers of Chrome OS work together as part of a cohesive security approach, including automatic updates to provide protection on a recurring basis without disrupting your work. Today we’re sharing a closer look at how automatic Chrome OS software updates maintain ongoing security of the platform and devices. Unlike most other computing platforms, Chrome OS devices always have two images of the system software on separate partitions. This approach serves two purposes. First, there’s no disruption to your work because you can keep working while the backup version i...

So a friend asked me to fix their laptop and the main problem apart from it being in a bad state (out and in) is that the trackpad won't work. Not only that when I plug in another mouse, it won't work either. However when I leave the laptop on eventually I get a UAC prompt to install some Java update. When I tab into the UAC prompt, both trackpad and mouse suddenly work until I click "No" to the prompt and it closes. So some kind of privilege problem? At first I thought it was a hardware issue since the keyboard stops working sometimes too including boot (selecting safe mode or normal boot). Maybe it is a hardware one too but if I could get the mouse working I could at least back up files. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Edit: Trackpad seems to work on the login screen sometimes but not always. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:10PM by Umbran0x http://ift.tt/2rkzjth

Specs: Windows 10 / GigaByte ga-h81m-s2h / i5 4460 3.2 / AMD Radeon R9 270 Hello, something has gone faulty with my PC, after 2 crashes it doesn't load Windows anymore, I tried resetting but every time it shows the Windows loading icon, screen goes dark and nothing happens. I was able to run it in safe mode but after doing a full Windows reset, it doesn't do anything when I try to go into recovery mode. Furthermore, when I try to go into BIOS, this is what it shows - http://ift.tt/2rkxIDP Any ideas what I could do here? I tried swapping RAM and moving slots but that didnt change anything. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 08:52PM by TomGoneNegev http://ift.tt/2qB7Feg

I've recently noticed some kind of window opening and closing really fast every so often. I'm either browsing, watching something on fullscreen mode with MPC-HC or playing Overwatch. In the first case I see the outline of a window appear and disappear in a flash, but I don't get to see what it is. When whatching video, I get a flash of the desktop and an orange something on the taskbar, but it quickly goes back to MPC-HC and even if I step out of it there's nothing in the taskbar anymore. When playing it takes the computer a bit more to change focus, so I just get a second of lag and I'm back on the game. I tried checking the even log, but I don't have the slightest idea of how does it work or even if it might do what I tought it does. So I'm open to suggestions. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:20PM by mkdabra http://ift.tt/2qAUycU

When I plug it in, the standby light turns on, and is usually red. But it doesn't turn on, either by remote, or the buttons on tv, and sometimes, it takes a few seconds for the red light to turn on after plugged in, any advice is welcomed Submitted May 31, 2017 at 05:10PM by KayEff5ee http://ift.tt/2smJqNn

CPU : i5 2500K MB : Gigabyte Z68 UD3H RAM : Corsair Vengeance 16GB Windows 10 pro, installed on 240 GB Samsung SSD Hey, so I have been having an issue recently where certain programs such as chrome and media player classic will freeze, forcing me to restart my computer. Upon which my BIOS would encounter a checksum error and recover, suggesting something is corrupting it and causing the freezing issue. I have done some googling but not found anything obvious, anyone have any ideas? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:38PM by con7con http://ift.tt/2rorlBm

I use Windows 7, Google Chrome browser I have found a temp file but I'm afraid it's not Temporary Internet Files, since it's very large Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:06PM by throwawaysaresexy23 http://ift.tt/2qAzwLz

I'm not trying to mess up my new 144hz Acer monitor, what's the best cleaning solution that you would recommend? I've tried amazon but I just want to make sure I'm getting what works best. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 06:17PM by MrPetersCyka http://ift.tt/2raOvL0

I have a Dell Inspiron 13 with an i5-7200U. Usual idling temps are around 40-50 deg C. But when I game, at around 50-60% CPU load, temps reach mid to high 80s. Is this normal? Is it safe? I usually play for 2-3 hours. I'm getting a cooling pad soon. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 02:59PM by sticksandbrushes http://ift.tt/2rnFNtn

So bit of background, I noticed that browsing on Chrome, opening new tabs to websites, new page, settings would always result in a crash. I wasn't able to do any browsing without either quitting chrome and starting it up again, or restarting the mac altogether. At this point Firefox would also take ages to load sites, and respond when I'm typing sites into the address bar and appear with the big spinning ball of death. But then it would eventually respond again. This happened many times over the past few days and normally a restart of the mac would make things dandy again. Kept happening, so decided to reinstall Chrome. It would uninstall fine, I used AppCleaner, but reinstalling using the dmg came up with two errors, "no such package" and "bad signature" (or something along those lines, can't reemmber the exact wording). Thought I had some sort of mac malware/virus, so tried BitDefender from the App Store telling me everything was ok. So still wit...

About 2 months ago my PC started crashing randomly when gaming. This lasted for about a week, but then disappeared for 2 months. Now it's back again and I am completely dumbfounded by it. I am getting frequent system hangs and occasional blue screens when running with dual channel memory. I decided to run MemTest, and testing the sticks individually gave me no errors. However, running both sticks in dual channel gave me plenty of errors and I have no idea why. It's my first build so I am relatively new to all this - if they work in single channel shouldn't they work together in dual channel like they have since I built my PC 6 months ago? Why the sudden change in reliability? Why did the problem go away for 2 months? Things I have also tried: Running AV/Malware scans Windows Updates Manually adjusting RAM to recommended 2133Mhz instead of 3000Mhz Also worth mentioning that temps are completely fine Should I update the BIOS? Could this be CPU related? I have no id...

So I've been having this problem for about a month now. My frame rate completely tanks for up to 3 or even 4 seconds after an alt tab, when it never used to before. Because I'm running a single monitor setup this is obviously infuriating to me. I'm on a GTX 1080 and I'm primarily playing older games, so resources should not be an issue. I tried switching to performance mode in power options in both Nvidia control panel and for my pc control panel, but to no avail. Since this is a new issue I never had before I'm betting it's my own doing in tinkering with some settings. Please help! Submitted May 31, 2017 at 03:36PM by Precaseptica http://ift.tt/2qzUcTW

Help guys. Got a new pc, 2 months old. Specs are: I5-7600k GTX 1070 Asus z270 mobo 8 GB ram 650 psu Problem is this, whenever i play a game on the pc and AFTER that (when i use the pc for normal usage) the screen flickers and / or goes black for a few seconds. See links: Black screen https://youtu.be/x-GklcPpx4g Flickering https://youtu.be/al_8_evuVTE I tried a different HDMI cable Different monitor Uninstalled and installed drivers Open the case, cleansed it and re fitted the Card but the problem stays. What could it be? Gpu temps usually at 60-80 degree celsius Submitted May 31, 2017 at 03:14PM by Piemelaar112 http://ift.tt/2qA3prw

I have a custom pc with a b85 plus mobo a strix gtx 970 (3.5gb :c) and 16 gigs of gskill ram. I'm not sure why it does that. It really defeats the point of getting a second monitor if I can't watch and play at the same time. Any help is greatly appreciated Submitted May 31, 2017 at 02:10PM by Pinsir929 http://ift.tt/2rTgL62

When i turn on my PC it shuts down immediately. The CPU and PC fans spin for a sec and the LED lights go on for a sec and then it shuts off. However i have found i way to get my PC on and that is by the doing the following: Turn on the PC (then it shuts off) wait for 5 minutes Turn on PC again (Now my keyboard lights go on and stay on but PC shuts off again) wait for 5 minutes Turn on PC again (now it stays on) The things that i have tried: Jumpstart CMOS (reset BIOS) Replace CMOS battery Reinstalled every piece of hardware Checked for loose pieces or screws Submitted May 31, 2017 at 01:30PM by Zombrii1991 http://ift.tt/2scQxZs

So I got my mothers old HP Pavilion DV6-3131TX and put a new HDD and copy of windows 7 on it. I found the driver page on HP and downloaded all the relevant drivers but a couple of them get half way or so and then stop. Every single time. Here is the site I've been downloading them from: http://ift.tt/2scUiOI Atheros 2011 Wireless LAN Driver 9.20 (sp53261.exe) gets 21.6 MB of 82.0 and stops downloading. IDT High-Definition (HD) Audio Driver 6.10.6292.0 (sp50642.exe) gets 20.5 MB of 26.9 MB before stopping Broadcom 2070 Bluetooth Software and Drive (sp50180.exe) gets 22.5 MB of 58.5 MB before stopping. Every single time. I've tried them all multiple times on multiple browsers and even multiple machines, the fault is on their end I'm sure of it. Trying to find these drivers via google though has just had me wading through dodgy site after dodgy site trying to get me to install their rubbish driver packs or to outright trick me into installing malware disguised as my dr...

I noticed when looking through my programs that I have a bunch of Office 365 apps. Can i uninstall all of them except for the en-us one? I do use Office 365. Here's what I see when I go through my programs: http://ift.tt/2rDrPnV Submitted May 31, 2017 at 01:15PM by warmapplejuice http://ift.tt/2rDynmE

Recently my Chrome has been acting weird. Whenever I click somewhere on a webpage a new tab opens with a scam ad (everything from "Your computer is at risk" to porn ads. But most of the time Reimage Repair ads). I have no idea how I got this as I'm very careful about what I install and download on PC and when I first got it I hadn't installed anything recently. I've run multiple anti virus softwares and only one of them works (Hitman pro). When I run a scan with Hitman pro I get a list of what seems to be malware cookies in my browser (anything from 17 to 123). I let the program delete them and then Chrome runs fine until I reset my computer. But recently this hasn't worked and even after running Hitman pro multiple times there are still cookies and ads in my browser. I've tried resetting Chrome, run Chrome's official anti malware program and even factory reset my computer (all tho it wasn't a full factory reset as I wanted to keep some files on m...

I find on both my PC and windows tablet that anytime I want to connect a Bluetooth device I run into the issue of it never remembering the device so I have to unpair (delete) from my computer or Windows tablet then pair it once more as if it were new. Every time. Takes some time, a real pain. It never remembers any device that is clearly right there on the list of remembered devices. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 12:59PM by BCarry http://ift.tt/2slb65o

Title says it all. Is there any way to fix this or atleast minimize it. This was all over the place earlier all the way up to the top of my display. Is there any fix other than replacing the whole LCD? Sorry if this is the wrong subreddit to post. Any help would be appreciated. HP N203TU http://ift.tt/2skUFGa Submitted May 31, 2017 at 01:04PM by TheAndroidEnthusiast http://ift.tt/2rmXk51

On my past laptop the connection kept dropping. I'm not sure if that's the right word but basically I get disconnected from the game or website that I'm on but my computer still says that I'm connected to the network. This was on my old computer and on my new one. This has also happened with 2 different routers. They are both xfinity routers. I have tried Ethernet and it seems to work fine but can't figure out a way to get an Ethernet all the way up to my laptop. I have tried a USB stick but they're just awful. Lastly I tried connecting to a network extender. That didn't work but I moved my network extender to where my laptop is so I can run an Ethernet from the extender to my laptop. That words but it isn't the best connection please tell me if there is anything I can do to fix my connection. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:12AM by MBoswell13 http://ift.tt/2riGimo

Hey TechSupport, So I've been having this problem for the past week or so. Every 2 hours, at 35 minutes past, a dialogue box opens up and effectively alt-tabs what I'm doing. There is sometimes a notification chime. It doesn't cause any programs to crash, but it's annoying as hell and I'd like to figure out what it is and see if it's harmful. I'm using an ASUS ROG laptop with Windows 10. Malwarebytes and Hitman Pro haven't removed it. Anyone have any ideas? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:14AM by Dragono193 http://ift.tt/2qyGGQI

I've run into a very annoying problem with my PC, which has stumped me. I have attempted all of the fixes I could find on the internet to no avail, so I'm coming here as a last ditch effort. Today at around noon I noticed that my computer just randomly restarted, when it came up to the Windows desktop, I noticed that my second monitor was not on, and that the monitor that was on was running at a low resolution. I figured it was a driver problem, and checked the device manager for more info, surely enough there was a warning symbol next to GTX 560 in there, so I check the properties and it said this Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) I Googled the problem, and tried quite a lot of fixes, none of which worked for me. -System specs OS: Windows 10 CPU: AMD A8-5500 Ram: 10GB GPU: GTX 560 Submitted May 31, 2017 at 09:19AM by wolfenstien98 http://ift.tt/2rT7pHg

So recently a family friend who is not tech savvy in the least was confronted by his wife because she found a file called "Silent Search.dmg" on his computer (MAC). She claims it's for hiding his porn searches and he claims to have no idea what it is. I did some research into it but couldn't find much about it except for duckduckgo but I'm not sure why that could be a .dmg. If anyone knows what this is please help me out, it's causing a lot of strife with them and I'd love to help clear it up. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 11:44AM by TrueFate http://ift.tt/2rmYsp3

Ran completely out of storage, so I tried deleting some of my photo library to clear up space. Selected the photos, then hit delete, which caused the app to crash. The screen then went black with the loading wheel (like during a reset). When I pressed the power button, my lock screen background was now black, and upon opening the phone all of my photos and contacts were gone. I checked my storage settings and there was still the same amount of data for my photo library as before. I then tried turning my phone off/on again. When I tried to turn it back on, it keeps showing the Apple logo, but won't fully activate. This occurs when I plug it into its charger as well. (I was at about 60% before turning it off.) Submitted May 31, 2017 at 10:36AM by _CaptainMurica http://ift.tt/2skwHLk

My wife has an HP laptop with Windows 10 v1607. All of a sudden a good number of the keys aren't working on the keyboard. I performed a hard reset, uninstalled the keyboard driver and restarted, no new driver software is available. Nothing has worked. The driver says the device is working properly. The keys that do work are seemingly random, and there are some oddities like whenever I push the m key, it types "6m." Other times I'll press a key and it won't register until a few minutes later. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:45AM by imkunu http://ift.tt/2sbSOE9

So my laptop (Acer Aspire V17 Nitro running Windows 10) can't detect the SSD that I've just installed. The drive will not show up in the bios, windows installer, or anything. I have tried reinstalling the SSD, disconnecting the HDD, and sacrificing virgins but my computer is still convinced it does not exist. Any ideas as to what I can try? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 08:29AM by DeltaKnyght http://ift.tt/2scqlOH

I did the installation right, I went to setup and installed it to my device, made sure enable Audio Enhancements was checked, everything...why won't it work? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:47AM by SneakySnake04 http://ift.tt/2r9CVQk

I've decided I'm going with a FM transmitter for an '03 Camry. Can anyone point me to some of the most reliable ones with the highest sound quality? Also any tips to make it work as well as possible. Thanks Submitted May 31, 2017 at 06:39AM by ohmyyeet http://ift.tt/2qE5iCQ

Hey guys, So I have this problem with my laptop on Windows 10 where after watching a video on YouTube, Netflix or any video online, the next thing I play even if it's not a video like Spotify, has it's volume raised by a lot, but then when I go to change the Windows Volume the value doesn't seem to have changed, it's usually at 30 and then after raising or lowering the volume a bit it seems to quickly fix the problem. I have googled around and I found some posts mentioning that I should update the Realtek driver, and I did install the latest Realtek driver from their official site but it didn't fix it. Is there any solution for this? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 07:00AM by jay2011 http://ift.tt/2r9lEGK

I recently change my ISP from Hawaiian Telcom to Oceanic TWC. With Hawaiian Tel I was getting about 15mbps down. Wth TWC I am getting ~55-70mbps down. However the issue is that even though my internet speed shows that it is faster, I am having a number of issues with my connection. My old connection was perfect it is just that downloads would take longer and loading videos would take longer. The amount of issues with my new connection almost makes me prefer my previous ISP with slow speeds but no issues.My most frustrating issues involve my PS4. I have my PS4 connected directly to my modem and am using a router for my wireless devices. First off, my PS4 issues. I am having issues loading friends' profiles, connection issues with matchmaking and other minor issues. I have never experienced the issues when I have Hawaiian Tel even though my speeds were slower. I am having issues while watching youtube on my macbook Pro now as well. I was able to watch 1080p and 1080p60 vids be...

I got this weird problem today, and i thought it would be a good idea to get some help, since its very weird. Earlier today, i visited a danish hacking forum out of curiosity. ( www.shellsec.pw ) The moment i loaded the site, cmd popped up and closed itself instantly. The first thing i noticed afterwards, was that the websites favicon is the cmd icon. That kinda freaked me out a bit, but i guess that was just some weird coincidence. Its been about 6 hours since this happened, and now every now and then cmd will pop up and close itself instantly, just like it did when i loaded the site. It has happened about 4 times since the first time. The site itself shouldnt be dangerous at all... I mean, its a pretty popular forum, and thats why this is so weird. Could i be infected with some kind of malware? ..... it just happened again, as i were about to publish this... i guess its time for me to post this. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 06:43AM by Anonymoose12323 http://ift.tt/2qE6Z2M

My sister recently bought a 2003 Toyota Camry and the car doesn't have an aux port for music streaming. I know cassette converters and fm transmitters are both common. Does anybody know the best option? I'm not willing to pay more than $40. Any tips for the highest sound quality? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 05:32AM by ohmyyeet http://ift.tt/2r9uTqE

http://ift.tt/2qzjMoa I mapped a network drive in Windows 10 connected to my ASUS router. The HDD holds 4TB and is only using about 820GB right now, but Windows is telling me that the drive has 1.74TB free of 561GB Wat...? This happened on two separate PCs and using two separate USB ports on my router. Why is does it think my drive only holds 561GB and why would it tell me there is still free space greater than what it thinks the capacity is? And how do I fix it? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 05:35AM by Kylix_ http://ift.tt/2rStXb7

Windows 10 Home 64-bit i7-7700k, not overclocked Windows recognized all 4 slots before upgrading the CPU (6700k to 7700k). Everything worked. After the new install, BiOS and CPU-Z both recognize 16 GB of RAM. Windows only sees 8 GB now. Slots are still being recognized. Swapped spots and each stick was picked up. Windows recognize both sets independently, & in different slots. Made sure that there was no RAM cap (Unchecked, at 0 in MSCONFIG). BiOS is up to date. Loosening CPU did not help. EDIT: Windows system http://ift.tt/2qzg5P6 Memtest results http://ift.tt/2rSDOhl CPU-Z SPD data http://ift.tt/2qyLvW4 Submitted May 31, 2017 at 01:34AM by fluff97 http://ift.tt/2rSqv09

So I just got an AMD Radeon R7 360 to use on my new HP 27S Envy monitor and am having an issue it's identical to this, i think, which was unanswered: http://ift.tt/1f8b5L5 If I plug the DisplayPort in, i get a black screen. If I plug in HDMI, it works (but is 30hz, so no bueno). When I boot, I can get bios and the windows logo, but once 'Windows' finally actually loads, it goes black. I can swap into hdmi and immediately get picture, but I need the DP to work to get 4k@60 running Any ideas? Submitted May 31, 2017 at 02:34AM by Mister_Rahool http://ift.tt/2sbFAYf

Has anyone ran into this issue? res://ieframe.dll/http_403 on IE 11 Not sure how to fix. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 03:00AM by ijohno http://ift.tt/2sbRhhu

Troubleshooting Help: Hey all- per the subject of the title, computer built back in 2014, all is fine. Running windows 10, all fans working, everything seems fine. Browsing internet last week and screen goes black - monitor still working though. Computer boots to black screen if USBs plugged in. USBs not plugged in- computer boots, but incorrectly and I cannot plug in my mouse or keyboard to get to Bios or to navigate the login page. Sometimes plugging in the mouse works, but it seems the login page is corrupted. I reinstalled windows 10 via usb drive, but when I try to set it up, screen goes black again. Any ideas?? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Submitted May 31, 2017 at 02:00AM by Intellectual_Daze http://ift.tt/2sjst6u

After leaving my Lenovo G500 in the sun the colours have suddenly become inverted. The issue is to do with the screen as when connected to a monitor the image is fine. I have also disconnected and reconnected the LCD screen with no joy. Would replacing the LCD screen solve the issue or is there a simpler solution? Thanks Submitted May 31, 2017 at 12:53AM by shitfullofsorrow http://ift.tt/2sbmqBI

None of my extensions include adblock, but webpages constantly tell me to deactivate it and sometimes lock me out of the website because of it. Submitted May 31, 2017 at 01:03AM by PM_ME_MAMMARY_GLANDS http://ift.tt/2rBXxSR

I've tried replacing the MOBO already, and I've tried both a different GPU (confirmed to work, borrowed from a friend) and different RAM (also confirmed to work). I believe it's running Windows 7, but it doesn't really matter because I can't even get to a BIOS. Specs: CPU: AMD FX-8350 GPU: PowerColor AX7950 PSU: EnerMax ETL650AWT MoBo: MSI 970A-G46 RAM: AMD RM AE38G1609U1K (4GBx2) Submitted May 31, 2017 at 12:39AM by wuerf42 http://ift.tt/2rh9KJA

Need to be able to have 6-7 people rdp into a server concurrently. I know 7 by default doesn't allow this, but, is there an easily available software that will? Thanks. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 11:26PM by HealthyandHappy http://ift.tt/2qwTZ41

I've recently migrated my work (music production, video/graphics editing) to a Windows Desktop from Macbook Pro. I can get twice the work done with the speed this computer has! I have been a Windows user since 3.1 and I have only ever used my Macs for work stuff. I have used a combination of Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner to backup my valuable data when working on Mac. After switching to PC, I have not found anything that even comes close to the data-security and easily restorable files. Please enlighten me! After using File History in Windows 10 for two weeks, I am surprised at how horrible this tool is: It doesn't delete old backups automatically when the hard drive gets full - I have to manually select to delete either from months back or everything up to the latest. These are my choices . I have only used my new PC for two weeks - so having to delete everything except the latest backup just doesn't make sense to me. It doesn't give any indication of how...

As the title suggests... My house has several ethernet ports in the wall. Verizon FiOS was recently hooked up to the house. The FiOS modem/router is connected to an ethernet port on our main floor. We have an ethernet port upstairs. Would it be possible to connect a second modem to this port to access the wired speeds provided by FiOS? How would I be able to check if this is possible or how would I go about setting everything up so I don't screw up our existing connection? Thank you! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 09:38PM by takiniteasy88 http://ift.tt/2rkkUiy

I can snap the main pane of the program to the corner of my screen but whenever I navigate through the menus they open in full screen and I have no option to minimize them. It would be beneficial if they would just open in the same snapped portion of the screen. Is there a way to make this happen, or is it possible to run this program full screen in a virtual window and snap that window where I want it? I know my wording is probably confusing so ask as many questions as needed. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 09:46PM by IrresponsibleAdult http://ift.tt/2saIM6n

Long Story Short: I have a network PC running Windows 7 that was setup via generic image for network use, and the image wipes out the original account for reasons that are apparently above my pay grade. This wasn't a problem, as long as the PC is connected to the network, as my network admin account can do anything needed, but now the computer has fallen off the network. So we're unable to access any kind of profile, since the image deletes the local account, so I can't backdoor my way in to put the PC back on the network. So is there a way to create an administrator profile from the bootup screens? Or something that can get me into any kind of profile on this PC? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 09:49PM by pseudophun http://ift.tt/2rB7QpW

Hello, I need some help with my Facebook account. I have exhausted all other options, any help would be appreciated. So I deactivated my account in 2012. It randomly reactivated a few weeks ago, without my permission. I was suspicious that it was 'hacked', so I tried to access it to deactivate it again. But I can't login. I can successfully change/reset the password (using phone and/or email verification) but when I try to login I am given a generic error message saying "sorry, something went wrong. We are working on it and we'll get it fixed as soon as we can". I have tried clearing caches, cookies, histories, etc. I have tried different browsers, including the iPhone app. I have tried waiting days, and now it's been several weeks for it to be fixed. This situation is less than ideal, and even though it doesn't appear to be a nefarious hacker or anything, I have no control over my account which is now automatically notifying people that it is my birt...

Hello all! I've got this printer that prints lines and splotches across every page Currently it's magenta, but this has been happening for a long time and it changes colors each time. If I print a blank page I still get some dots but it looks like a fine mist. I'm wondering if this is a hardware issue or if it's because my company orders off-brand toners? Thanks! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 09:05PM by carpe_dentum http://ift.tt/2qwgIgC

I have a netgear WNDA3100v1 wifi adapter for my computer. it always randomly just disconnects. any help will be much appreciated. i turned off the "minimum power" feature still waiting to see if that fixes the problem. or if that is the problem. any other suggestions? this has happened with many adapters in the past. running windows 10. also updated drivers for it still waiting if itll do it again. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 09:39PM by Nicoismywaifu http://ift.tt/2qwkFSD

Disclaimer: I'm new to this community, so I apologize if this question belongs elsewhere! I also apologize if I'm not using the correct terminology; I'm not the most knowledgable when it comes to computer/tech stuff. So my desktop computer (running Windows 7) came with McAfee and Norton pre-installed, and I've relied on them until yesterday. I put up with their constant spamming, because hey, at least they were working, right? Wrong. I used a free antivirus a tech-savvy friend recommended called "Panda" (my computer had been running slowly), and discovered 3 Trojans and 2 other "security threats" (plus a ton of cookies)...which I can't account for. For context, I've only had the computer for 6 years, and use the internet pretty exclusively for checking my email, social media, and research for my classes. I haven't opened any sketchy emails or attachments, and don't visit disreputable websites (at least I don't think so). The se...

https://youtu.be/ANAup-F-OBY Submitted May 30, 2017 at 08:19PM by throwawayreddit8552 http://ift.tt/2rB3Up8

Hi, I just moved into a new apartment... Finally have internet set-up etc so I moved my PC to where the router is located. Bear in mind, I had been playing it offline until the internet was installed. Now, I try to start up and it runs through the "checking disk integrity", deletes some stuff, "loading windows", then a black screen. A friend suggested to take out the battery from the motherboard to see if it was a problem with that, it hard reset but still no dice. Definitely not the motherboard. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 08:21PM by lam3r17 http://ift.tt/2sa5ZFA

So I'm looking to upgrade all my machines in the near future to Win10 1703 and connect them all to Azure AD for central management. Currently we have onsite AD in 2012 R2 syncing to AzureAD and users login to Terminal Servers by either using their UPN or SAM account as their username. When we make the move to 1703 and connect the machines to AzureAD the users will need to login with their UPN as their username so i'm trying to get them into the habit of using the UPN but I was wondering is there a way in group policy to disable the ability to login with the SAM account and only accept the UPN? I've tried to do some research but so far have come up short and I know it sounds like a bit of a long shot but I figured if anyone would know - Reddit would. Thanks in advance. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 05:34PM by storyboard87 http://ift.tt/2rAPXrh

So I dropped a Yoga 14 (i5); I'm not sure if it's worth the price of repairing the screen and other potential damage I did to it, or if I should just go ahead and get a new laptop (probably an xps 13 or 15). Submitted May 30, 2017 at 07:53PM by Maczuna http://ift.tt/2samx0k

So recently when I booted up my desktop from sleep mode it had booted up to a black screen and have no idea why. So far I've tried to reset CMOS on it, reseated my RAM and my graphics card but still no image. I've even swapped out monitors to see if it was a monitor issue but still nothing. All parts seem to be running normally too. I don't really care enough for this desktop to bring it to a shop so I was wondering if anyone here could help diagnose the issue? Computer Specs: *ASUS H81M-E/M51AD/DP_MB Motherboard *AMD Radeon R7 240 2GB Graphics Card *Toshiba 1TB HDD *1xDDR3 8GB RAM *AcBel HBA008-ZA1GT 350W PSU *Windows 10 Submitted May 30, 2017 at 07:15PM by jmarpreddit http://ift.tt/2qxlSov

Ever since the Windows 10 update where it comes up with a pop up asking you to review some settings, the fingerprint login in no longer works, and when you try and use it to log into things through HP simplepass, the led flashes red indicating it does not recognise it. I have tried resetting it in the settings but the same thing happens every time. Any idea why this is happening? and what I can do to fix it? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 07:15PM by ApexRedditor6399 http://ift.tt/2rQNvg1

Hey board, I'm a visual designer and so I work using the Adobe Suite ( Photoshop, Illustrator, Premiere Pro, After Effects, Muse, InDesign). Since I travel alot, I need a laptop to work with. Yesterday I ordered an HP Pavilion 15-AU119NL. The specs are the following: -Processor i7-7500U - 2,7 GHz ( up to 3,5 GHz ) 4MB l3 cache -RAM 16 Gb DDR4 -SSD 256 GB -GPU nVidia GeForce 940MX 4Gb DDR3 I was wondering if with these specs I would be able to do video editing and aswell to start making 3D renders using Maya or Rhyno. I didn't want to go on Apple, hate them for their policies. Cheers, hope I took the right decision 💪😎 Submitted May 30, 2017 at 05:39PM by Balthazzard http://ift.tt/2rjeHDx

My computer's running Windows Vista, because I'm extremely lazy. I don't know anything about the hardware really, but for my problem it probably doesn't matter. Also it makes a weird squeaking sound and then tries to access the DVD drive when turning on, before shutting off. Ive also been having a general decrease in my computer's performance, with lots of lag. Fearing the worst, Ive backed up all my important stuff. Edit: Forgot to mention, I did all the usual stuff like checking to make sure everything was seated properly, which it does seem to be. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 02:54PM by Sablemint http://ift.tt/2s9UOx0

I am having an issue where spybot-antibeacon and shutup10 aren't reapplying their settings after a restart. Whenever I set the settings I want, and then restart, some settings just don't stick and go back to being disabled. Is there a way to fix this? Is this happening to anyone else or is it just me? Thank you. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 03:41PM by maxline388 http://ift.tt/2rA9k3N

Thanks for the help. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 03:11PM by TazoGreenTea http://ift.tt/2s9x5g6

I was using my desktop tower connected to an LCD TV just fine, then Window's in it's wisdom forced an update on me....after it did it's thing now my display is super zoomed in so far that you can only just see the top corner of the start menu when pressing the Windows key None of the options in Display under right click are any use I swear they break more than they fix with every update Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:23PM by BerryKnight http://ift.tt/2qv1QiG

So I performed a reset. I chose to "keep my personal files", and a message told me that non-native programs would still be removed. I proceeded with the reset. It all went smoothly, but I noticed my hard drive was still as filled as before, even with all my games uninstalled. The games were most definetely the larger portion of the hard drive. So what happened? Are those files still in my hard drive somewhere? Thanks in advance! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 02:28PM by SomaCreuz http://ift.tt/2sgKSRf

I have a computer with Win10. I want to run a program once the computer shows no input (say after 10 or 15 seconds), but then closes said program once there is input again. Google provided me nothing (or my search skills are off today). Submitted May 30, 2017 at 12:36PM by Critical386 http://ift.tt/2rirUwn

I just bought a new acer computer, it said it had 1TB HD space. I start downloading games from steam when it notifies me there is no space on C:/, which confused me because it said it had 1TB. When I look at the My Computer to see what was going on, it says that my C:/ only has 200 GB While my D:/ has my 1TB. How do I make my D:/ my primary Hard Drive to where all my files I download and things like that will be put onto that drive instead of the C:/? (PLEASE TALK IN SIMPLE TERMS) Submitted May 30, 2017 at 12:51PM by SilentUMad http://ift.tt/2sglrQ7

http://ift.tt/2sgsWGu So these splotches are very pronounced when Im logging into my computer and over static neutral colored backgrounds. The monitor is an LG 34UC87C ultrawide. Luckily I cant see them when Im doing actual work on my computer, but if I open Photoshop for example, I can see a trace of them on the grey UI. Is it image burn? If so I do not recall ever looking at an image with that kind of pattern. Its kind of driving me crazy knowing it's there and nothing Ive done has fixed it. I tried lowering screen brightness to 50% thinking maybe my display is too bright but that didnt help. Anyone ever see this? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 10:15AM by StrangerSin http://ift.tt/2ri7UKs

Hello all, I have a problem. I have a WLMP file I have been working on and my Windows Movie Maker is all messed up. But let me back up.... I have Windows 10 and awhile ago I downloaded Movie Maker. I was unaware at the time that it was stopped in 2012 and I just searched something like "windows movie maker download" and downloaded from the first site (looked semi reliable) and I made a couple movies and everything worked and it was all good Yesterday I went to save this WLMP file as a movie and it said I have to sign up and register, buy a full version, this was only a trial, etc etc. So I figured out I must not have a legit copy, so I uninstalled Windows Movie Maker...and went to find the "real" movie maker. I downloaded the Windows Live Essentials suite or whatever (from here http://ift.tt/1d39pe1 ) and I went to install it and it said it didn't install correctly...so I went to uninstall it and it doesn't show up on the add/remove programs. In fact, i...

I have a Chromebook that I've been using since early September. Recently, I accidentally damaged the power adapter output port. Today, this damage escalated to the point where it only charges in very specific conditions, that is, the plug isn't making a good connection with the Chromebook. Naturally, I started to search for a replacement adapter. I found this on Amazon, which is identical to the item I currently have, but it's $40. I tried searching for a cheaper part that could work just as well. I am also considering buying just the output plug and doing a repair on my current adapter. However, I don't know enough about this stuff to make an informed purchase. Hopefully, some of you guys could help me. To reiterate, I am either looking for a plug that would work just as well as much current plug, or a part I could use to replace my current output port. Here is an image of what I think is the relevant information. Feel free to ask for anything else you might need...

Im looking to convert an image into numbers. Im only looking to do 0-9, no letters. So like hex, without the letters. Here is an example: http://ift.tt/2qAIXG5 Thanks for the help Submitted May 30, 2017 at 05:38AM by daddydean http://ift.tt/2r64REQ

I have no idea what this thing is. My headset worked fine until this application started showing up randomly (PC probably updated itself at night). I used to be able to plug in my headset and it would automatically make it the primary audio device and the mic would work fine. Now, this thing is popping up when I plug my headset's audio & microphone jack and I have no clue how to guide it. My audio jack is plugged in but isn't working at all. It isn't even showing up in my playback devices. My mic works fine How can I either completely delete this useless (to me) app and put my PC back the way it was, or configure it to work normally? OS: Windows 10 Submitted May 30, 2017 at 07:37AM by thr0w--awy http://ift.tt/2r5YFwf

Trying to log into a refurbished laptop to install a fresh version of Windows 8 yet I can't log in due to it spamming 4 in the password box. All I need to do is get into the bootmenu so either a solution that will disable the laptop keyboard from the log in screen so I can use a USB one or a way to enter the bootmenu without having to log in (no bios menu indication i.e "Pres f12/del to access bios" comes up when powering up) Thank you for taking the time to read and any help will be appreciated! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 08:37AM by Jupes http://ift.tt/2qAQy7p

So a while back when I first setup my hard drive I made it 800GB instead of the full 1TB (it's a 1 TB hard drive) for some reason thinking I could extend it later. I couldn't extend it when I tried so I made a backup of all my files onto another drive and deleted all the partitions on the problem drive. This is what it shows: http://ift.tt/2qAQvIL I am 100% sure that this IS a 1TB drive because it says 1TB on it, I bought it brand new (It's a Western Digital Caviar Blue), and I vaguely remember being able to choose 1TB when I was first setting it up. Please help! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 07:42AM by Blastguy http://ift.tt/2r69L4p

Every game i try to run on my main monitor, it black screens and alt tabs (I think) and keeps doing that. The game starts but it just black screens, goes back to game, black screens, goes back to game, black screens... etc. This happens right on the start of the game and it happens on any game I try to run fullscreen on my main monitor. The side monitor works perfectly fine for gaming. How do I fix this? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 06:34AM by InsomniacAlways http://ift.tt/2qvVR9d

No text found Submitted May 30, 2017 at 06:39AM by OptimusPrime_ http://ift.tt/2rPCsUA

Title. My friend's PC is this: http://ift.tt/2diGbEA and one of his RAM sticks just died. Can he take out the broken one and buy a 1x8 kit of the same model to replace it? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 06:49AM by crunchyintheory http://ift.tt/2rPGBYr

Hi r/techsupport ! I hope you can help me figure out what to do. I've had two store credit card accounts hacked; the hacker has logged into the websites with my credentials, then changed the email address on the account, and since I got emails notifying me of same, I was able to fix the problem by calling customer service. But I noticed today, even though the last time was in November 2016, the email address was the same. That seems weird to me, but this is not my area of expertise so I thought I'd come here for advice. Thoughts? What should I be doing differently? If I should use a password manager any suggestions on which one? (I've seen lots of folks in favor of them but also opposed, so even that is confusing to me.) THANKS IN ADVANCE for any insight! Submitted May 30, 2017 at 06:53AM by Auds18 http://ift.tt/2rPoFxf

In "My Computer", under "Network", there's sometimes a phone listed under "Network" ( screenshot here ). It looks like it's supposed to be an Asus Zenfone5. Why is it here? How can I find more info about it? My computer is a desktop, does not have WiFi, and AFAIK has never been on the same LAN as this phone. My home wifi uses WPA2, and when the phone appears here, it does not show up on my router in the list of connected devices. I have a USB bluetooth dongle, but it's not plugged in, and the phone doesn't show up under "Show bluetooth devices". I keep a very minimal Windows 10 install for gaming, and primarily use Linux. This Windows 10 installation was done from a clean slate (on a new SSD) last summer. Nothing weird shows up when browsing with Avahi under Linux, but I'm not sure that's equivalent: I have no idea how Windows' device discovery works. Devices on the network: This desktop A raspberry pi 2 My ...

No text found Submitted May 30, 2017 at 05:25AM by clickclickclick1 http://ift.tt/2qw2AQt

Whenever I run GPU/CPU intensive application on my laptop it always gets to 65 degrees before my fans kick in and it tries to stay bellow 65 degrees temperature. It doesnt matter which resolution/details I chose the fans always try to keep it at 65 degrees. This causes issue when I run CPU/GPU light application and my fans dont increase speed until my laptop reaches 65 degrees. Is there a way to make the fans kick in sooner or increase fan speed? I tried everything I found online and because of my BIOS the fan control application dont work. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:20AM by lord_blaster http://ift.tt/2rdX1r4

I've recently installed a Radeon 6870 HD PowerColour into my PC, and I keep experiencing the following symptoms, normally about an hour after startup, with no clear reason as far as I can tell: -First, my screen will change to entirely black (but my monitor won't go to sleep, meaning it's still receiving a signal). -Then, all audio will also stop a few seconds later, and be replaced by a 'burrrrr' sound. -Then, I will have to hard shut down my PC by holding down the power button for a few seconds, as I've lost control of the computer. I've tried a number of solutions to this problem: -I've uninstalled all drivers using the AMD Cleanup Utility, CC Cleaner and Display Driver Uninstaller and reinstalled them. -I've set the fan speed to 80% to make sure it's not the card overheating (the card does idle at 41C, but will crash both during fullscreen gaming and while playing non-HD, non-fullscreen YouTube videos so I don't think it's an o...

Sometimes, while actively using my PC, my screen will go completely black for a couple seconds, then return to normal. After a few seconds, this happens again. And again. Then it'll be fine for like an hour. Any ideas what I can try to resolve this? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:44AM by f_4_k_e_r http://ift.tt/2rdRLDA

Hi guys, I got some malware (I think) on my HP Spectre. every 10 mins or so i get that blue screen telling me to enter my laptop's serial # and i can't do anything aside from restarting my comp. I've tried scanning with window's defender but it keeps coming up as normal. I've also tried downloading Bitdefendor, Malwarebytes, & PandaSecurity. They all refuse to run after they've been completely downloaded, giving me error messages. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you. Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:54AM by Aliemn http://ift.tt/2qtgoiC

http://ift.tt/2qtzfu2 SPECS: i7 7700k Gpu: gigabyte 1080ti FE MOBO: Msi z170a titanium edition RAM: 4x 8gb corsair dominator platinum COOLER: Thermaltech water Riing 3.0 RGB OS: Windows 10 x64 Power Supply: Corsair AX1200i Computer will randomly shut down and do what is shown in link. Will not post until power supply switch is hit. Boots fine right after. Brand new everything, maybe two months old overall. PLEASE HELP. All outside peripherals will stay on. Led strip lights and USB desk fan will stay on continuously while computer starts and stops. Edit: Added os Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:54AM by SharkyyNom http://ift.tt/2re1Qk1

My company just bought me this Dell laptop . It has HDMI, Intel 620 graphics, and a USB-C port (which does work with an HDMI adapter connected on a 1080p display. I'm looking into some higher resolution options, such as a 3440 x 1440 ultrawide. But I'd hate to buy an expensive display and then find out my computer can't use the full resolution. Is there a good way to determine this? Submitted May 30, 2017 at 04:16AM by DVNO http://ift.tt/2r5wKNd

Hello there! I've been using an overclocked GPU for about a year and a half now and am suddenly getting graphical errors. Horizontal, pixelated lines have started appearing on my second monitor out of nowhere. These stop when I return the GPU clocks back to default. Now even if I increase the clock speeds by +1MHz they start up again. My PC specs: OS: Windows 10 Processor: Intel i7-4790k 4Ghz GPU: Radeon R9 270X (OC to 1180MHZ core, 1550MHZ mem.) MoBo: ASUS Z97-A Wireless card: 802.11n Tenda Wireless LAN card RAM: 16gb DDR3 Displays: 1. 22" Acer LCD 60hz 223W 2. Generic 20" Alba 1080p Plasma TV What I've tried: Updating GPU drivers Checking for Windows updates Disabling/Enabling Vsync in global settings Doing a clean install of my graphics drivers. Enabling/disabling gpu and monitors in device manager Installing previous gpu drivers Checking VGA BIOS for updates (up to date) Programs being used: MSI afterburner 4.3.0 (I used this guide http://...