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Motherboard - ASUS H110 Plus RAM - ADATA XPG 288 Pin DDR4 2400 GPU - MSI GTX 1060 3GB CPU - Intel i7-7700 3.6Ghz CPU Cooler - AVC 80mm Case Fans - AVC 120mm Power Supply - Allied 500W Non Modular SSD - ADATA SU600 120GB HDD - Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200 RPM A few days ago I had a power outage while booting up, and now when I boot up (even in safe mode), I get a blue screen. The first is a little :( with "BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO" as the error, then it reboots and says "after multiple tries the operating system on your pc failed to start so it needs to be repaired". I made a windows 10 recovery usb with the iso from the website, but when I do "Startup Repair", it tries and says "Startup Repair couldn't repair your PC." Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this issue? The only option seems to be a fresh installation of Windows 10, which would mean losing all my files. This is a new computer, so it's not a huge issue, but there's ...

Operating System Windows 10 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) CPU: Intel i5-6600 GPU: ASUS Rog Swift GTX 1070 Mobo: ASUS Z170-AR PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W RAM: G. Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2x8) DDR4-3000 Speccy Link http://speccy.piriform.com/results/w2nSXxqGRUjxwFJgqpvjNmA Description of problem Whenever I play certain games (i.e. Star Citize, Dark Souls 3, Divinity 2), my PC will occasionally reboot. Memtest86 also leads to this issue. Hours of use for simpler things like Netflix, YouTube, Reddit, etc. do not lead to this issue. When this issue began A few weeks ago, playing Star Citizen. Recurring issue Yes Date of purchase I custom built this PC in Summer 2016 -- replaced mobo summer 2017. Under Warranty Some parts? Not sure. Cause/Steps to recreate the issue Games or memtest86. What I've tried so far to resolve the issue 1) Cleaned my PC with compressed air. 2) HWMonitor while playing games to see if the temp got too high -- it did...

I restarted my PC and the login page thing was weirdly laggy and the box to type it was off to the side. I typed it in and it very slowly wen character by character and it let me on. Now I can see my background, but none of my icons are there, and when I put my mouse on my taskbar it shows the loading screen. If I do CTRL ALT DELETE it's just a purple screen with no options. CTRL SHIFT ESC opened the taskbar though and I opened the location of my windows explorer and was able to look on my desktop and open a picture and what not. I tried restarting my windows explorer, but nothing changed. (It says in details it's not responding). For some reason my PC is super loud (and it's not hot. So if anyone knows why that's happening I'd really appreciate it. I have like nothing even open and it's already going wild. I use about 30% of the CPU usually so I'm not sure why). The only thing I did out of the ordinary was disable something called "windowsfont" o...

Hey guys, Two Google issues I am having tonight. First is, Google Assistant doesn't seem to be working. When I say or type a query to it, it just processes for a little while and then nothing happens. Have tried restarting my phone to no avail. Second is- is it possible to link smart devices(in my case, a Wee plug) to my Google Home app even if I don't have a Google Home device? I don't see "Google Assistant" options in my Google Home app hamburger menu (the site I saw on how to link to Wemo had those options). I am running a Galaxy Note 8 on AT&T. Submitted February 01, 2018 at 08:39AM by waywaymack http://ift.tt/2rUAFyB

I tried many different stuff, finally I got an update through driver easy, but when I try to install the driver on device manager the installation timeouts. I tried to increase the timeout length on gpedit but it seems like my gpedit doesnt have device installation. Any help please? Submitted February 01, 2018 at 08:39AM by DefNotAnAlter http://ift.tt/2GBllKA

Ok so i calibrated my tv perfectly (it’s lg btw) and then i come to find of something called chroma sub sampling and basically i need to change my hdmi icon to pc to get this effect. I did this and all my settings changed and one mode had actually disappeared (HDR effect) and dynamic contrast and colour are greyed out in every setting for modes and most options tbh. Am i doing something wrong or right? Do i want the 4:4:4 chroma sub sampling shit or shall i just change it back to hdmi? The amount of settings and tweaking is making me pull my hair out lol thanks alot Submitted February 01, 2018 at 06:50AM by throwaway125678410 http://ift.tt/2BH0uSD

After I bought a new SSD for my laptop (Crucial BX300 CT240BX300SSD1) every time I turn on my laptop it goes straight to the bios and after I exit the bios without saving, or saving (doesn't matter), it goes normally to windows. After entering windows, if I restart or turn off the laptop it continuous to go straight to windows, only if I leave it off for an hour or something it will go back to bios. Initially I had the SSD on a caddy and sometimes I had to exit the bios 5/6 times before it goes to windows. After I switch with the HDD I only have to exit one time like I said before. I've already updated the bios and switched the boost priorities. How can I solve this? Submitted February 01, 2018 at 07:27AM by GhoostNight http://ift.tt/2npYEku

Motherboard - AB350 Pro4 PSU - Corsair VS650 Windows 10 64bit About a week ago my PC - built about 4 months ago - wouldn't boot in the morning when I pressed the power button. I tried again a few hours later and it worked, but I noticed the clock on windows was hours behind. Other than that it worked fine. This trend continued throughout the week, wouldn't respond to power button, then eventually it would boot but with a messed up clock. Today i got sick of it not turning on and ruled out a loose powerbutton switch by connecting the power pin and its neighbouring ground pin on the motherboard with a screwdriver. I got a spark but nothing turned on. It is still outputting power to the USB ports. I figure the problem could be in my motherboard battery - could that explain the constant loss of system time, even though power is clearly in the system? Other than that I've got no idea. Thanks! Submitted February 01, 2018 at 05:33AM by Pulse_and_Spiral http://ift.tt/2BJk...

Alright so when I try to record a video with my voice in it, my voice seems to break up every few seconds. So, I have tried to different types of Microphones and I get the same result, I'm not sure if its my Audio Card's or something. I have a picture here; https://gyazo.com/1db36ceb8a20cc228a6615cb1a480ab7 So If I could get some help that would be very appreciated! :) Submitted February 01, 2018 at 06:04AM by skiller167 http://ift.tt/2GBqPVQ

My dad died recently and my mom really wants any old voicemail messages we have. I got a new phone a few months ago and still have the old one with all his old messages on it, but I can't remember the passcode. I've googled around and it looks like the only way to get into a locked iPhone is with a reset, which would lose all the (unbacked-up) data. It seems like it's probably lost, and this is a long shot, but does anyone know another way to get into the iPhone? (I know, for the future, automatic backup is turned on now). Submitted February 01, 2018 at 06:29AM by keighte123 http://ift.tt/2rYGT0m

Hiya. I have an Acer K212HQL 21' LED monitor attached to my stock Acer Aspire AXC-704-EB51 Desktop Computer. Today while doing the usual house cleaning, I took some windex and gave the monitor a quick wipe for any dust or stains. About 2 minutes later when I came back to it, I noticed two lines across the monitor on the right side. One yellow and one red. Then after another 10 minutes a few more lines appeared and looks like the screenshot posted. https://i.imgur.com/0vjfstn.jpg I've tried opening the back and re-seating some of the wires I could find. As well as Applying pressure to the screen and case around the screen (As per a million youtube suggestions), and changing the cord, unplugging/replugging the power, and reinstalling my drivers. Not sure if there's anything I missed or if there's any recommendations any here would have. Thanks! Submitted February 01, 2018 at 06:00AM by riggzo http://ift.tt/2GD6lMw

So i got a mail today from "apple" saying that my email was used to login to my apple ID from india bangladesh. But the thing is that i've had apple once, like 6/7 years ago, (never again after) The email that was used (mine) was all correct with capitals etc. The "apple" mail did not mention it was a succesfull or failed login. But it did say my apple account has been disabled for 12 hours on 31st of january, but the strange thing is that on "32 january" my apple ID account would be permanently blocked. It did have a website link inside, but i didnt click on it and i deleted the e-mail. Please let me know if this is real of fake Submitted February 01, 2018 at 03:54AM by CrazyKripple1 http://ift.tt/2ErvMzG

Last night, it was around 40 or 50 degrees Fahrenheit, which is pretty uncharacteristically cold considering I live in Florida. When I woke up, I wanted to check some things on my laptop, which was ice cold. It didn’t turn on. My phone has similar issues with turning on when it gets cold, so I just left it be and figured that it would get warmer as the sun came up, and I went about my day. Around ten hours later, at 3 pm, I came back to see that my laptop still wouldn’t work. I tried warming it up like I do with my phone by putting it under my back while I lay down (it sounds weird, I know, but it warms up quick), to no avail even though the laptop itself is pretty warm to the touch. I leave the laptop on the charger basically all the time, and last night was no exception. The laptop is about one month old, unused. What the hell do I do?! People have laptops in WAY colder places than Florida, and they’re fine. How can I fix this? I need to use my laptop as soon as possible, I have ...

Pulled this from a 2009 Mac Pro, can’t find any information on this. Can someone identify what it is? Submitted February 01, 2018 at 05:31AM by HawkeAssault http://ift.tt/2EsMrmH

Sorry for the lack of formatting. I'm posting from mobile. I got a h100i V2 about 6 month ago and it has worked great up until 2 weeks ago. My computer started overheating really bad. Idle temps are around 50c and under synthetic load (prime 95) it can get as high as 91c. The cooler reports a coolant tempature of 40c within a few minutes and has gotten as high as 50c under load. I think I can hear the pump running and the tubes get warm. I'm using the TIM that came with the cooler and I'm wating on a new tube to arrive in the mail. The processor is a i5 4670K that was overclocked to 4GHz but I have brought it back down to stock 3.4GHz. What should I do. Could it be an issue with the cooler or the processor? Specs are as follows. i5 4670K Corsair RM650 MSI GTX 1070 8GB MSI Z97 Gaming 7 16 GB Corsair vengeance DDR3 Submitted February 01, 2018 at 05:39AM by Micim98 http://ift.tt/2DSlDLh

I'm troubleshooting a problem with my desktop PC, which has an aged but still sufficiently decent Asus Sabertooth X58 motherboard with three 4GB sticks of Mushkin 9-9-9-24 DDR3-1333 RAM in it. I'm getting some really weird behavior, as follows: With all three sticks installed, the BIOS set to 9-9-9-24 and either 1333MHz or 1066MHz modes (more on that in a minute), Memtest86+ set to multi-core mode reports intermittent (but fairly frequent and very lengthy bursts of) memory errors, but doesn't tell me which stick or slot they're being detected on. The reason I've tried both 1333MHz and 1066MHz is that my BIOS mentions that it only allows 1066MHz or 800Mhz options unless your CPU is unlocked. My CPU is a Core i7 950 which, according to much Googling, is probably locked. But the RAM itself, which has worked fine for years, is marked as being 1333MHz. I've tried both 1066MHz and 1333MHz options in the BIOS for all 12GB (failed for both speeds), and I've don...

Operating System Windows 10 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) OCZ 500 W semi-mod power supply EVGA GTX 560 Unknown Sandy Ridge i5 - I forget which exact model - stock cooler, no OC 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 ASRock z68m/USB3 motherboard Description of problem I moved a few months back, and my buddy let me store some of my stuff at his place, including this PC. Due to circumstances, I only got it back about a month ago, and only tried plugging it in and turning it on a little over a week ago. It was stored inside, so controlled climate, but I'm not sure if he may have moved - or possibly even dropped - the box it was in. There is no visible damage to any component, except preexisting bending of the side panel from when my dumb ass mushed it before putting it together - and it worked for almost 7 years with that. When I hit the power button, all fans and HDD spin up and the power light comes on, but there is no POST beep and the monitor never receive...

Official Malware Removal Guide by: /u/cuddlychops06 for /r/techsupport // Updated: September 20th, 2017. Changelog: 9/20/17 - Updated some screenshots, removed JRT recommendation - see below   If you suspect you are infected with Crypto malware (Cryptowall, Cryptolocker, TeslaCrypt, etc) DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.   Purpose & Scope of this Guide: This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots . If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large sc...

I bought this sweet wireless adapter. The company no longer has drivers available. Emailed but don't expect response. Is there a good 3rd party driver site? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833180017 Submitted February 01, 2018 at 03:09AM by Mobely http://ift.tt/2np0PF8

Hi guys. I'm on a HP Laptop, 64 bit Windows 10 Home OS 15063.850 Intel Core i5 8gb Ram So, exactly as the title says. This began a week ago out of nowhere. Anytime I put something fullscreen the screen then dims a bit. As soon as I exit it slowly fades back to regular brightness. I've googled this ad nauseum and the only thing I can come up with is adaptive lighting. I have it disabled and anything to do with it. My power settings are for full power and performance. Plugged in or not. Mainly it happens when watching videos, say in VLC or something, and then returning to the desk top. Again, my google searches have returned nothing. Can anyone help me out? I'm going nuts over this, haha. Thanks guys. Submitted February 01, 2018 at 03:42AM by gimme3steps101 http://ift.tt/2BJqo8i

So I just got into this game PoE, and recently setup the price check hotkey. I enjoy that, but it requires playing in Windowed Borderless. Okay I'm fine with that.. Performance and FPS is still smooth and what not.. except with a Twitch stream on my 2nd monitor. Then my game feels choppy and hurts my eyes... the 144hz buttery smoothness is gone. It's fine in Windowed Borderless if I DON'T have a Twitch stream up on the 2nd monitor. The thing that's odd... is if I am FULLSCREEN having a Twitch stream up on my 2nd monitor DOES NOT have the same effect.. the game is still smooth. So basically.. for clarity let me reword this if you don't understand my issue. If I watch a Twitch stream on my 2nd monitor in Windowed Borderless, it feels like I'm playing on 60hz... but if I watch a Twitch stream while on Fullscreen, my game stays at buttery smooth 144hz. Now I have read that the issue is lying in the fact that my main monitor is 144hz but my second monitor is 6...

Hey guys, so this is my problem. I am playing Minecraft for example. I'm getting around 40 FPS. My GPU Usage is at ~70 % CPU 1:30 CPU 2:23 CPU 3:39 CPU 4:44 How do I get better and more consistent FPS? I bought the PC a while ago. The specs are: AMD Athlon x4 860k 3.7 GHz ASUS GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 8 GB DDR3 RAM 1 TB HDD 120 GB SSD Windows 10 Mainboard: A68HM-plus (FM2+ Socket) Submitted February 01, 2018 at 01:46AM by westninjav2 http://ift.tt/2nrzuSG

My computer has been crashing due to this same error for literal months and I have tried everything I even fresh installed Windows ffs Submitted February 01, 2018 at 01:58AM by ChucklesMcFuckYou http://ift.tt/2BJ7sX6

I don't know how much of this is relevant. I basically copy pasted from steam info. Computer Information: Manufacturer: Alienware Model: Alienware 17 R2 Form Factor: Laptop Touch Input Detected Processor Information: CPU Vendor: GenuineIntel CPU Brand: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4980HQ CPU @ 2.80GHz CPU Family: 0x6 CPU Model: 0x46 CPU Stepping: 0x1 CPU Type: 0x0 Speed: 2798 Mhz 8 logical processors 4 physical processors HyperThreading: Supported FCMOV: Supported SSE2: Supported SSE3: Supported SSSE3: Supported SSE4a: Unsupported SSE41: Supported SSE42: Supported AES: Supported AVX: Supported CMPXCHG16B: Supported LAHF/SAHF: Supported PrefetchW: Supported Operating System Version: Windows 10 (64 bit) NTFS: Supported Crypto Provider Codes: Supported 311 0x0 0x0 0x0 Video Card: Driver: Intel(R) Iris(TM) Pro Graphics 5200 DirectX Driver Name: nvldumd.dll Driver Version: 20.19.15.4835 DirectX Driver Version: 23.21.13.8871 Driver Date: 10 16 2017 OpenGL Version: 4.6 Desktop Col...

So I’m setting up some machines, but a cable is missing from two of them. On one end is a five pin header, but I cannot figure out what the other end is. It’s for an thunderbolt card on an HP workstation. Cable provided with other machines: https://imgur.com/a/mVOwV/ Any help would be appreciated. Submitted February 01, 2018 at 02:13AM by TacoChowder http://ift.tt/2BFOK2x

I've tripled check everything so far. The fan works, the power source is working. I checked the HDD (2 of them) separately and they work, the video card is where it's meant to connect. I'm totally at a loss as to what it could be or how can I diagnose it. Could you guys help me figure out how to find the error? Submitted February 01, 2018 at 02:17AM by Proxify http://ift.tt/2noNSLw

Description of problem Can't connect Bush 24" HD LCD TV (LED24265DVDCNTDW) to Samsung Soundbar (HW-M360). Other relevant info Samsung Soundbar has a standard TOSLINK optical input. Bush TV (UK brand) has what the manual identifies as a SPDIF output. Looks about the size of a 3.5mm audio jack. Has "SPDIF" written on top, "Co-ax out" underneath. When this issue began New Recurring issue Yes Cause/Steps to recreate the issue Standard optical cable will not fit TV. What I've tried so far to resolve the issue Toslink to mini-toslink will not work. Mini-toslink cable doesn't quite fit and doesn't engage in the TV connector. Standard TOSLINK does not work obviously. Submitted February 01, 2018 at 12:56AM by TheGreatCthulhu http://ift.tt/2DQD4vI

I wanted to see if my motherboard has an extra PCI express so i opened the case checked everything and closed it. Since then PC is completly inresponsible. It seems normal, fans are spining etc but it does completly nothing, cant even get into bios. All the connections are ok, monitor works. Only thing that has been touched is CPU fan, because i have dusted it off. Any ideas what is going on? Submitted February 01, 2018 at 01:06AM by xsw2_2wsx http://ift.tt/2DPdC9T

Hi, I want to create a customised email address displaying my business, for example: johnsmith@insertcompanynamehere.co.uk . How do I go about setting up an email address like this? Obviously my name isn't John Smith and 'insertcomoanynamehere' is just an example of where I would display my business name. Any help would be most appreciated. :) Submitted January 31, 2018 at 08:38PM by drinkingisruiningme http://ift.tt/2BHjsse

Hey. I have purchased a new MOBO, CPU and RAM (MSI A320M, Ryzen 3 and DDR4 8GB RAM). I wanted to reuse the HDD I had on my previous motherboard, but in the Click Bios 5 it says SATA1 not present, but I've checked it and it is attached properly into the SATA1 port on the motherboard. What should I do? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 11:04PM by Sir_Anduin_Lothar99 http://ift.tt/2noVUnt

I've recently started having these issues after a fresh install of windows 10 after I replaced my RAM, when I play games in windowed mode or borderless mode, the fps randomly drops sharply, and very often if I have VSYNC on it'll drop from 60 to 30 exactly and stay there for a while, or until i alt-tab and then alt-tab back. These problems don't occur if I play in fullscreen mode. I never had these issues before I changed RAM and did the fresh install of everything. If anyone can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! EDIT: forgot to include my system specs 16GB Ram i7 6700k CPU GTX 1080 GPU 500GB SSD and 4TB HDD, games have the same problem no matter which drive it's installed in. LG 21:9 3440x1440p monitor 60hz Submitted January 31, 2018 at 10:04PM by Zyvexal http://ift.tt/2BHjobY

No text found Submitted January 31, 2018 at 10:57PM by WalterWalternet http://ift.tt/2EtirXJ

So I've played this game on the same computer all the way through at least 3 times. It ran on medium-low video settings. It worked fine up until a few months ago. Now when I try to start up the game it just flat out won't start. The steam UI pops up for a few seconds, the screen turns black, then it just cuts back to the desktop. I just don't know what happened. Here are my specs: AMD Athlon X4 750K Quad Core Processor 3.40 GHz 8.00 GB RAM Radeon RX 470 Running Windows 10 Any help would be appreciated. thanks! Submitted January 31, 2018 at 11:03PM by BillBurros http://ift.tt/2DQ66M5

Hello, my HP Laptop which is running windows 10 started making a buzzing noise a couple weeks ago, it was quiet at first and I just ignored it. Within the last couple of days it has become obnoxiously loud. It makes the noise almost constantly, though on occasion it stops. The noise changes when I unplug the power cord. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! Video Link: https://youtu.be/e8UvCA_fEe4 Submitted January 31, 2018 at 10:44PM by Walron http://ift.tt/2Ethsa5

My receptionist gave remote access to our work computer to a scanner yesterday who posed as a Brother customer service representative. Long story short, I have scanned for malware and blocked remote access for the future as well as changed any password on the computer. Is there any way to know if or what they took? They were trying to sell her something when I came out from working with a client so perhaps they only wanted credit card info but I would like to be sure if I could. Thanks for the help. Also note that the number which shows up on Google when searching for support from multiple companies is 1-855-687-3777. That's the scammer. Edit: also they used Zoosk to access the computer if that helps Submitted January 31, 2018 at 10:29PM by stretchypantsforfun http://ift.tt/2DPfDDg

Hi! My newest (2017) Toshiba hard drive is not recognizing on my 2015 Macbook Pro. It has been formatted for Mac and has previously worked for about 6 months. The HD "whirs" when plugged in and lights up, and the little "beach ball" comes up on the Mac. Then the disk image shows up for a second, but then disappears. I can't get it to mount the disk for long enough to see or use files -- it's just a few seconds. My other hard drives (including another Toshiba) are working. Any idea what could be wrong or how to fix it? Thanks! Submitted January 31, 2018 at 10:33PM by funnyushouldask http://ift.tt/2EsziKs

Hi Guys, So I know this is a pretty common problem but I can't seem to find a solution to it in all the googling I've done so far. I recently bought a Seagate Expansion Portable Drive (2TB), and used it to back up all the data on my 2013 iMac with the Time Machine function. I got a new PC laptop which I want to transfer all the data to (the laptop is a Dell i5 8gb ddr4 1tb with Windows 10). So when I inserted the external drive in my iMac, I had to reformat the drive so that it can be read by the iMac. After that was successful, I backed up everything using Time Machine. I checked on my iMac and saw that everything was backed up on the external. Great. Now on to the next problem. I inserted the external hard drive on the laptop I'm working on, and the drive doesn't show up at all in the file explorer / my computer / This PC. What can be done about this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 09:28PM by Hannoose http://ift.tt/2DPJN...

Hello, I have a PC connected to a LCD screen via hdmi. I have another big screen in my room connected with display port, a BENQ XR3501. When I am on my computer i only use my lcd, and my benq when I go on my sofa watching movies. I use windows key+p to dupplicate screen. Everything was fine during month. But recently my benq screen randomly turn on for few second even if my computer dont send video signal. And since few weeks my benq screen doesn't works at all. The led power is off and when I windows key+p my computer doesn't detect him. Even if I turn the physical power button on my benq screen (for brightness settings for example) nothing react. I found the solution, I have to pull out the power supply from the wall and wait few second, and when I plug in the led power turn on and my screen is working again. Everything works at lease few hours. During less than a day the screen randomly turn on by himself again, then is "bricked" again and I have to power out e...

Hey, recently upgraded a clients PC, with a 240GB SSD and a 1TB HDD. When I tested it at home both drives just worked. When I booted his PC with the 2 drives the BIOS did detect the HDD. I then put OneDrive on the drive and it worked. That it did some updates and a reboot and the drive didn't work anymore. Showing up like this. Formating the drive have an error. I took it back to my PC, formatted and it seemed to work. Put it pack in his PC and same issue. Anything I can try? I'm thinking it could maybe be a driver issue. Specs: HP Z400 workstation i3 540 8gb ram Windows 7 Ultimate Sorry for formatting, I'm on mobile Submitted January 31, 2018 at 06:40PM by JelleRutten http://ift.tt/2Eo6LFz

As title says, would be convenient to use Gmail app for a Gmail account I use for a small business, but half the reason I moved away from Android was concerns over Google's tracking my life. Can I use Gmail signed in on iOS without giving Google permissions to scrape anything off my phone? New to iOS. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 06:40PM by heavyarms_ http://ift.tt/2DParzh

So I have a Sony Xperia c4 and just had a update available to android 6.0 marshmallow few days ago so I downloaded and installed it . Right after the installation was done it shows me that my memory card is corrupted. All my data in the card was gone I had like 3.5k files (pics/vids/music) and only 600 left cause it was saved on internal memory for some reason . I tried plugging the phone to my laptop with USB cable to check on laptop but it doesn't even show up the phone on laptop now (it used to easily show phones memory on laptop before by jus plugging the USB in laptop and phone before the android update) So now I don't know what to do, on my phone there's a notification saying fix corrupted card : format it or something. Anybody knows if I can recover my data still from the phone?? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 06:45PM by xrubalx http://ift.tt/2Eo6DG5

I have an Asus X550CC-XX424H with windows 10. Sometimes my laptop disconnects from internet (sometime fully, sometimes partly (yellow triangle at wifi symbol)). To get it working again I have to close my laptop and wait till it goes to sleep. Then when I open it, I'm connected again. It only works when I do this. When I turn wifi off and on, or try to reconnect to the network it doesn't reconnect. It happens on multiple networks and the time between disconnections varies between minutes to hours. Does someone know how I can fix this? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 07:11PM by laura_bobo http://ift.tt/2DO5M0k

Hi! I started having this problem today with a router that worked well yesterday. I can't connect to most web pages on the Internet besides Facebook, youtube and others (which load without problems, even videos I have never watched). Steam and Spotify can't connect either and the problem is the same with both chrome and firefox. It's the same problem with both 2.4ghz and 5ghz. Other devices work fine on the WiFi (phones, chromecast and other laptops). I've tried deactivating my WiFi cards and reactivating it, restarting the computer, and running NetAdapter repair unsuccessfully. Net adapter repair says pingin IP is unsuccessful but DNS ping is okay. When I connect to a hotspot from my phone, the Internet works as usual. I use Windows 10 64bit. I have no idea what could be causing this. Please help! Thanks! Submitted January 31, 2018 at 07:45PM by Castillo91 http://ift.tt/2rXzG0R

Hi all, a friend of mine was rather silly and had lots of data on a 1tb Seagate Backup Plus Portable Drive SRD00f1. This data is know where else and it has her masters thesis on it. We are rather remote but I have some tools. So far I've left the drive in its enclosure but I have a powered sata to usb 3.0 adapter I could put it in if that helps. Thus far the drive appears as D in windows explorer but cannot be opened and appears as raw. Recuva found nothing of value (lots of 0kb files) and I have a copy of EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard so I tried to run that. During the deep scan it seems to find everything with the proper size attached but when I try to recover very few files actually come through at the right size. I haven't let it finish a deep scan yet and have just been trying to recover as it scans since the drive likes to disconnect and interrupt the scan. I know it should've properly been backed up but I'd really love to help her out with this currently I'm ...

Hi tech enthusiasts, I am really on the edge of despair. I will link you a thread I made in the Intel subreddit: here My problem is that my CPU is getting way, way too hot. Way too hot for me to think that bad airflow is the cause, especially since my GPU is running at somewhat normal temperatures... I think I described most of the important stuff in the other thread so please bare with me and read there, and bare with me to double post but I really want to get another opinion in here on what to do / how to proceed. I really want to make sure I do not do any dumb stuff before taking action. I will be thankful for any help I get... Thanks in advance. P.S.: I don‘t think you will be able to spot much there but I will still let this pic sit here, in case it helps with something: http://imgur.com/a/jOIbI Submitted January 31, 2018 at 03:04PM by A_Stoned_Wookee http://ift.tt/2rV4D5K

Hey guys - So I finally found that its the ram that causes my stuttering in overwatch which is my main game, which is why i bought a "top" pc 6months ago. I did a thread about this in another sub which made me already spend another 250$ which didnt help. This is my PC 7700k asus z270h Corsair VENGEANCE® RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 1070 samsung 850 evo I went with my old PSU and a "fake" windows 10. From my last thread i was recommended getting a new PSU and a real copy of Win10 So now I have fractal design 750w and a real windows 10. So thats not the problem anymore i guess. Stuttering continued. I tried every possible setting in bios - because I was also asked to do a memtest with XMP which i did and had no errors, so i thougt it couldnt be RAM. Well, i think it was anyway. I tried setting my ram to 2400mhz and just took CL timings from a another corsair ram and it was so much better, but still not perfect. Guess its not the correct timings. So,...

Win 10 pro 64 Asus r500vj laptop (a few years old) Original symptom - Laptop shutting down, software suggests CPU and GPU was getting too hot. Solution - Opened up laptop, removed headsink (cleaned) with 100% alcohol, added arctic silver ceramique , and for the GPU, replaced the thermal pad. As this is a media PC, i placed it upside down, so the air intake could get full amount of air, and heat can dissipate through the vents at the bottom (MB is upside down with the cooler on the underside of the MB) Temperatures have dropped, but no where near as expected. https://i.imgur.com/at3erQp.png https://i.imgur.com/tZSOUio.png CPU - Drop 10-15 degrees GPU - Drop 10 degrees. I know ceramique has a burn in, but i was kind of expecting a bigger temp drop. Particularly when idling. Can ceramique expire? it looked of reasonable consistency, although might be a year or so old. Although the new thermal pad for the GPU also had a similar temp drop. Any opinions of if this is normal, or ...

My model is Sony Vaio SV15139CJS Video card: Intel HD Graphics 4000 Sometimes randomly my screen starts to flicker and it is a really annoying problem because pink lines start to appear on my screen and it becomes impossible to use, the screen becomes practically unresponsive. I have tried downgrading and updating my video card driver and the problems seems unrelated to that. This problem occured once even when I was using the Windows's safe mode. When connected to external screens, the external screens respond perfectly with no problem. Is it a hardware problem? If yes, would it be costy to fix it? Thank you so much, I need my computer to study and I beg for your help. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 04:14PM by heads1on1sticks http://ift.tt/2nset9E

While i was playng some games my pc crashed. So i waited a little bit and tried to turn my pc on, the power button lighted up and the fans started spinning but there was no signal from my graphics card. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 04:30PM by RektoVerso http://ift.tt/2DObF1y

Isn't this strange? Why can't I find the actual document? Is it possible its name has changed and I just have to comb through .rtf files to find it? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 03:42PM by RevolutionaryFriend http://ift.tt/2no8KTf

No text found Submitted January 31, 2018 at 03:44PM by air28uk http://ift.tt/2BG1eYd

I've been using my PC at my old house with 0 issues, using a wifi adapter (NetGear Genie A6210) but since moving to a new house, the internet very obviously lags within 10 minutes of loading into an online game (specifically PUBG and Rocket League). It is viewed as remaining connect at 1Mbps, but it is very obviously disconnected. It takes about 20 seconds to show a disconnection, despite other people's voices and in game progress failing earlier. I can browse the internet, use YouTube, and even download updates for games/programs not a problem, but the second I require a constant high speed connection it fails. The internet remains connected and fully functional on my phone and other devices, it is only the PC that struggles. I don't know how to search google to diagnose my problem and any help at all would be great. Windows 10 OS EDIT: Just tried a game of Fortnite, and it disconnected me after going to "1Mbps" like the other games but Fortnite gave me the ...

I lost my phone and when I got a new phone my google authenticator app data did not carry over to my new account and I am locked out of several accounts. I do not have the backup keys either. Firstly, is there any way to locate the old backup keys, second is there a way to carry over the data the existed on my other phone, third are there any other options? Thanks in advance Submitted January 31, 2018 at 01:47PM by Jwieber18 http://ift.tt/2rT37RI

hello, we pay for 100/40 internet speeds (100mbps down / 40mbps up) however when i did a test on speedtest i only get 17/13 down. this is on wifi and on ethernet i get around 90/37. this is on both my desktop and my laptop. both systems are running windows 10 home v1709 Submitted January 31, 2018 at 01:49PM by ItsOskii http://ift.tt/2GyFTDq

Anyone have one I can grab online? Basically that or friend needs to spend 55$ plus change to HP to recovery the POC they already ordered from hp. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 07:06AM by allmen http://ift.tt/2E0P1SR

Hey, So I noticed my Comcast WiFi was being super slow this past week, so I called Comcast to ask what was up and they sent a guy to my place. He didn't find any issues with my connection, and when hardwired my internet is fine at about 110 download speed. Via the WiFi, it is at 20-30 download with only one device that is right next to the router. The guy said that it may be because I live in an apartment building in a high-density downtown area and that my signal is getting interference from other people's devices and WiFi networks. He recommended that I return the Comcast equipment and get a stronger router/modem. My question to the community is that when I am looking at new router/modem combos, what details am I looking for to fix my problem and get a super strong WiFi signal? I've been looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZUPOF7Y?ref=emc_b_5_t but what about it tells me that it is the best choice for my problem? Thanks, Submitted January 31, 2018 at 06:22AM ...

Hi all, I've been having this problem for a couple months now, and have tried a few different solutions. I get severe frame drops, primarily in Overwatch. I run at low settings, but my frames will drop to around 15 sometimes. owever, when I look at performance with Task Manager, nothing is near full use. I thought it was just because my GPU is old, but I upgraded to a GTX 1060 6gb and I'm still having the same problem. I tried reinstalling Overwatch on a different hard drive just in case that was the problem, but it also had no effect. Could my motherboard be limiting performance? It is definitely the lowest-quality part in my build. You can find my build here I also have a secondary 2 TB drive that Overwatch is currently installed on. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 06:21AM by ElMoosen http://ift.tt/2rWOjl8

Heeeelp me Submitted January 31, 2018 at 05:03AM by QiReal http://ift.tt/2E0tSs4

z270e Submitted January 31, 2018 at 04:07AM by zigman21 http://ift.tt/2nn33VA

Operating System Windows 10 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) PSU: Corsair - CX 500W 80 Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power SupplyGPU: MSI Nvidia GTX 960 4gbCPU: lntel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHzRAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000Motherboard: MSI - Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Speccy Link http://speccy.piriform.com/results/85EpvijDIdKenvBnQkUTfoU Description of problem After upgrading my motherboard, cpu and ram, there's a message in the bottom right corner saying that I need to activate windows. I originally had an OEM version of Windows 7 which I upgraded to Windows 10 back in November. The message popped up after about 3 hours after my hardware upgrades. I've ran through the troubleshooter but it always gets an error when I try to sign into my Microsoft account. When this issue began About 40 minutes ago; around 3 hours after upgrading my hardware Recurring issue Yes Date of purchase I purchased my new parts 3-4 days ago Un...

So I installed my second SSD today, and after successfully installing it and setting it up with my PC, my PC recognizes the SSD. However, the SSD is 3TB, and upon set up, it is only allowing me to use 2,048 GB, and leaves 746.52 GB labeled as "unallocated." My Disk Management is not allowing me to extend the volume of the allocated disk space nor will it let me allocate the leftover 746 GB. Is there anything I can do about this? I understand that my PC would need to use some space on the disk to format it for Windows 10, but I don't think that would require nearly a TB. Thanks for any advice! Here's a screenshot of my Disk Manager (the disk I am setting up is Disk 0): https://imgur.com/acXAGOB Submitted January 31, 2018 at 02:12AM by _ClayPot http://ift.tt/2EpN3JM

Hi, So I have a question / query regarding my situation. I have an old Xbox Live account from my Xbox 360 with 20k achievementpoints and some games that I would like to keep, but it's already automaticly converted to a Microsoft-account. This is the account I have logged on my Xbox app on Windows 10. Let's call it Xbox-account. I have another Microsoft-account, which is my Windows 10 account with many Windows 10-keys attached to it, and a few Office-keys. Let's call this one MS-account. Now for the question: If I purchase games through my MS-account (since I'm automaticly logged in here since it's my Windows 10 account), will I have issues playing / starting the games through my Xbox app and playing them on my Xbox-account (on the same computer)? I had no issues with this on the Sea of Thieves Closed beta (where my MS-account had the beta attached to it, not my Xbox-account), but I just want this clarified - since if this does NOT work, I need to have somethi...

I run Linux Mint on my Dell Latitude E6500 and I was wondering if the Ubuntu phone is compatible with Linux Mint. I was planning on using it like an iPod to an iMac where it can be docked to your computer and you can manage photo, video, and music storage. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 02:59AM by Sundae_Labaux http://ift.tt/2rVQmG0

I installed a WD20EZRZ 2tb HDD into my computer as a secondary drive but i need help setting it up in windows. After setting in BIOS and even changing the SATA ports (I'm having to forgo the optical drive until i get a SATA splitter). In the BIOS only the second drive shows up, The main OS drive still boots but the second only shows up. It gets even weird, The 2tb drive has merged with my main 1tb drive, CrystalDiskInfo, HWmonitor, And windows only see the secondary drive because its merged with my main one? CrystalDiskInfo has a "Caution" due to "Current Pending Sector count", This is peculiar and i don't know whats happened. There's no Master/Slave in SATA so what is going on here? Any help will be appreciated https://imgur.com/a/9qgd7 I need help ASAP as it could damage my data. I have an MSI H61-M Mobo. Submitted January 31, 2018 at 01:06AM by olliegw http://ift.tt/2GufvKW

I recently bought a new computer and it played beautifully in the beginning. But after just one month ive noticed that its not as smooth anymore. Example, i cant watch a youtube video while playing cause that makes the game lag. CSGO Runs on 150 fps while Battlefield 1 runs 200-300 fps. Its just weird. Even my last pc with GTX 770 ran better. To note, when i put the pc together i didnt use any of the CDs that came with the Motherboard cause i dont have a disk input. Any help appreciated! Setup: Asus Strix Z270H Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 6GB DUAL OC Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000MHz 16GB Monitor: BENQ XL2411Z Older ASUS 60hz Submitted January 31, 2018 at 03:09AM by wbergg http://ift.tt/2rQny1v

I don't understand how this works, and if it's safe. If they keep a group of SSN to use it to scan dangerous sites for a match, wouldn't that risk backfiring and being more compromised? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 12:48AM by milibili http://ift.tt/2Ep5NJ7

I am running my PC on an r7370 4gb msi graphincs card. i have recently added a 27'' gaming monitor in addition to my two 24'' monitors , and only two of the monitors will ever run together, yet all three are working. my system specs: r7370 4gb GPU FX6300 3.5ghz CPU 8GB HyperX Fury RAM Windows 10 64-bit Submitted January 31, 2018 at 01:16AM by Jamie-Munns http://ift.tt/2DMjQax

Hi. I looked up how to extract audio files from an app and the only helpful post I found was 5 years ago. I tried to follow the instructions but it didnt help because of all the changes to the new itunes. So, I purchased an app called Genki Vocab app on my phone. I'm typing all the example sentences into Anki and am looking for a way to extract the audio files so I can add those files to Anki as well. Would someone please let me know if this is at all possible? Thank you very much. Have a great day. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:41PM by MrPikalu http://ift.tt/2GsYXDc

Operating System Windows 7 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) PSU: Corsair - Enthusiast 650WGPU: MSI RX 480 Gaming 8GBCPU: Intel i5-3570KRAM: Kingston - HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600MOBO: ASRock - P67 Extreme4 Speccy Link N/A Description of problem I just installed a RX 480 on a dual monitor PC. The HDMI outputs aren't working. The DVI is the only connection that can read a monitor.   EDIT: Forgot to add what I've tried to resolve the issue: I've deleted and installed the GPU drivers several times with no success. When booting Windows 7 normally I'm only able to move the cursor and see the desktop of the monitor 2. When I open any files or programs, I'm unable to see anything. I believe it's due to the fact that it's being sent to monitor 1 which isn't being connected. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:42PM by AlpacaFarmerSLC http://ift.tt/2rSKoWk

I bought a key for Windows 10 and I had two drives plugged into my computer: a flash drive that was meant to get the Windows installation, and my external hard drive where I keep family photos and files. It was 3 am in the morning so my judgment and awareness wasn't the best, so when Windows asked me to pick a drive, I chose my external hard drive. When I realized what I had done, it was already too late. My drive has a different capacity now ( http://prntscr.com/i7sfrr ), went from 500gb to 30gb, not to mention I lost my files. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:55PM by gestioco http://ift.tt/2GsYTTY

Hi, I set my Windows 10 lock screen photo as a family photo a while back and stupidly deleted the hard copy I had of said photo. It's still my lock screen so I figure Windows must have a copy of it buried away somewhere but I haven't been able to find it. I've managed to find all the hidden Spotlight photos but not a copy of my custom one. Any ideas on where to find a copy of the lock screen photo? Submitted January 31, 2018 at 12:02AM by fallenangel321 http://ift.tt/2rSKxZS

Operating System Windows 10 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) PSU: 750 Watts - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G1 80 PLUS GPU: GeForce(R) GTX 1070 8GB GDDR5 CPU: Intel(R) Core i7-6700K 4.00GHZ 8MB RAM: 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4/2800MHz Soundcard: ASUS STRIX SOAR 7.1 PCIe Gaming Sound Card Motherboard: ASUS Z170-PRO GAMING ATX Speccy Link N/A Description of problem A few nights ago, I came home and upon restarting the computer, the only audio options I had were HDMI out of my video card.. My Strix soundcard was suddenly no longer installed in the eyes on my computer. I unplugged it and re-inserted it and still nothing. I switched it to a different slot, still nothing. I attempted to uninstall then reinstall the driver for the soundcard; however, trying to install the driver gave me a message of "no hardware installed." The soundcard though has a light-up LED light, which I'm assuming means it's at least getting power; it's just not recognized. But my compu...

I've set up my Windows 10 PC (HP ENVY Phoenix Desktop - 810-430qe CTO) to output HDMI into my TV (LG OLED65C6P). For some reason, when I boot up the PC with the HDMI cable plugged in, I get no signal on the TV. However, if I unplug the cable from the PC before turning it on, and give Windows a minute to boot up before plugging in the cable, it'll work about half the time; the other half I need to reboot and try again. If anyone has suggestions on how to fix this without having to mess with the cable all the time, I'd greatly appreciate it! Edit: The graphics card is a 4GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 980 [DVI-I, HDMI, DP, DP. DP], and the drivers are up to date. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:30PM by tehfraginator http://ift.tt/2GxUdwf

Hello, I'm looking to clean install Windows 10, but I have some questions. In virtue of the Windows 10 agressive drivers installations, is it recommended that I let Windows 10 install the drivers itself or I install then myself from my manufacturers website? Should I turn off windows update? Thank you in advance. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:16PM by MadCommunication http://ift.tt/2DOfzn4

Hello I recently bought a new PC, therefore I was told to get Windows 10 on my external hard drive. I had a lot of different things on it, but today when I was trying to use it - all I could see were the windows files I previously got on it. The name of the external hard drive changed and the GB. It went from 500GB to 32GB? Do you guys know how I get my files back and the 500GB? My english isn't my main language - hope it's understandable. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 11:26PM by zabozil http://ift.tt/2EnA1we

my computer is running win10 Display: https://imgur.com/8fmVYve Device Manager: https://imgur.com/r3IWA9Q Display Adapter: https://imgur.com/PDRu0jm and here's a video: https://youtu.be/DpPw6vfdrwE Submitted January 30, 2018 at 09:39PM by kcarlo13 http://ift.tt/2EpVrsD

As the title implies I have been having issues with BSOD's while playing games. The BSOD happens only toward the end of a match ( such as in Fortnite when going from game to main menu ) or when switching from one game to another ( such as going from Fortnite to Overwatch ). The BSOD stop codes that I have seen are : Memory Management Kernel Security Check Fail Pool Corruption In File Area I am running a: i7 - 7700k, GTX 1070, 16 GB DDR4 3000 MHz Ram, Antec TP 750 PSU If there is any other important information that I can provide please let me know. Speccy Snapshot: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/XPLVNm2EN7jU6jGiLm84qCp Memtest Report: https://i.imgur.com/8JIefQq.png Submitted January 30, 2018 at 09:58PM by redx91 http://ift.tt/2Ep613c

Operating System Windows 10 Computer Specs (PSU, GPU, CPU, RAM, Motherboard) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type|Item|Price:----|:----|:---- CPU | AMD - FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $70.00 CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $33.00 Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-970A-DS3P ATX AM3 Motherboard | Purchased For $82.00 Memory | Crucial - Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $35.00 Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00 Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $0.00 Video Card | XFX - Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card | Purchased For $0.00 Case | mean:it - 5PM LUM RED ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $60.00 Power Supply | EVGA - 600W 80 Certified ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $38.00 Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ...

Hello, I am looking for a simple application that I can make into a IIS site or already has a built in web interface. This needs to be able to ping switches and websites and display them as being up or down. Currently I am using Spiceworks Network Monitor but it is not exactly what I am looking for. Any input would be appreciated. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 07:47PM by Bushy_Ween http://ift.tt/2DL7WBU

For roughly the past 24 hours or so, my Fire tablet has had a black home screen with no icons showing at all, only the top bar (with the time and notifications) and the bottom bar (with the back/home buttons) showing. If I restart it, it shows back up but after a while it seems to go black again. I've had to keep ES File Explorer 'active' (or whatever you call it) so I can open other apps besides Farmville 2, FBReader and ES. The tablet is just over a month old (it's a Christmas gift) and has only been online 2 times for maybe a total of 8 hours. Device specific details that may be needed are... Fire HD 8 7th Gen OS is 5.4.01 updated on the 23rd Submitted January 30, 2018 at 08:29PM by Oragami http://ift.tt/2npJsTG

Hey guys, so I was having some subtle lag issues that regular measures weren't really picking up properly. So I decided to install Pingplotter and run a long test. However, I'm not quite sure how to read the data. Trying to figure out who's the problem child, me, my network or Blizzard. Thanks! Link to the gallery Submitted January 30, 2018 at 08:56PM by FistOfChillaxus http://ift.tt/2DL7RhA

The sound stopped working on my iMac and I took it to a shop. After inspection, they said they just needed to replace the sound port, which would cost £500 because they would also need to replace the entire logic board just to do that. There's no way I'm paying the price of a very decent new computer just to have the sound fixed. Is there anything else I can do? Submitted January 30, 2018 at 09:25PM by IdRatherBeEATINGASS http://ift.tt/2npVHQe

Intel 622ANHMW Mini PCIe Wireless Card 572509-001 Submitted January 30, 2018 at 09:19PM by GTalmighty http://ift.tt/2DL7aF0

I need some tech support! Over the last few weeks my custom built desktop PC has developed an odd behavior. Every now and then, at seemingly random times, my monitor goes black for a few seconds. The audio keeps going though. If I'm playing a game, the game appears to keep going as well. In other words, the computer does not seem to be crashing - the screen just goes black. Here's my basic set up: FX-8320 GTX 970 16 GB DDR3 RAM Corsair CX600M PSU Acer 1080p 144Hz monitor (DVI connected) I've tried hooking up another monitor but it still happens. I've tried updating my GPU driver, but no luck there either. GPU and CPU temps appear to be within normal limits. I have mostly had this happen while gaming or watching a Youtube video, but it has happened... just because. I am stumped here. I've never seen a computer do this before. If anyone has any ideas, I would really appreciate it. I suspect it's a hardware failure of some kind, but I really don't kn...

Now more than ever, businesses are relying on enterprise applications as a critical step towards employee and customer engagement. But this ecosystem of enterprise apps can come with its own challenges. Downloading these apps sometimes means sourcing from multiple locations—not all of them trusted. Most businesses deploy their apps on a variety of devices, but with multiple operating systems and ownership, security and provisioning can be challenging. At Google Cloud, the aim of our Orbitera commerce platform has always been to build an ecosystem that makes it easier for enterprises to buy and sell apps in the cloud. That’s why we’re thrilled to be working with MobileIron. By combining MobileIron’s security and enterprise mobility management tools with Orbitera, we’re creating one place to deploy, secure, manage and analyze business applications. Working with MobileIron, our goal is to help businesses more easily and quickly create an integrated marketplace where their authorized c...

It’s been a busy few months since we introduced our second-generation family of Made by Google products. We’ve heard from so many of you that our new products have been helpful in your everyday lives—whether you’re taking stunning portrait mode photos with the new Pixel 2, getting hands-free help around the house with the Google Home Mini , or using real-time translation in 40 languages with Google Pixel Buds. But even with all the great things these products can do, building hardware is…hard, and there’s still a long journey ahead. That’s why I’m delighted that we’ve officially closed our deal with HTC , and are welcoming an incredibly talented team to work on even better and more innovative products in the years to come. These new colleagues bring decades of experience achieving a series of “firsts” particularly in the smartphone industry—including bringing to market the first 3G smartphone in 2005, the first touch-centric phone in 2007, and the first all-metal unibody phone i...

I'll explain this as simply as I can because I'm already raging from losing full control of my computer. The new forced update was forcing my computer to download it which would then promptly fail and I would have to hard restart to restore to a previous version of windows. Repeat this scenario around 10 times and that's where I was at. It gave me a stop code of: CLOCK WATCHDOG TIMEOUT Fast forward to the tenth time and I decided to buy a legitimate copy of Windows 10 home after 2 years of no problems without it to see if it would change anything. It got much worse. After downloading that my computer will say "restoring previous version of windows" for about 3 seconds before switching over to my Krait MSI gaming screen for half a minute then switching back to the 3 second aforementioned screen. On a constant never ending loop. My options are to enter a system boot state or BIOS state but neither gives me an option to do anything meaningful. I've been stuc...

I work in a school and the kids have access to YouTube which is fine as it's useful but they also have access to certain videos that we don't want them watching..is there a way to block some videos or channels in general...the school is very small so we don't have a IT manager or technician so every computer related issue have to be solved by us ourselves Submitted January 30, 2018 at 05:20PM by oladeji123 http://ift.tt/2EmNGDK

I have a few PC's which the CBS logs expands to astronomical sizes (50+GBs in some cases) I can go in and manually delete them which is fine, I even have a script in place to do so. But I can't seem the find a KB fix or more permanent solution to this problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Submitted January 30, 2018 at 06:36PM by StealingHistory http://ift.tt/2DNTNzN

All help is appreciated! This issue flares up from time to time - I think it's the graphics card as sometimes I get a notification telling me it's crashed when this happens. Here's a pic Here's some system info: Windows 8 Samsung Ativ Book 8 (Laptop) 64 bit OS, x64-based processor Intel Core i7-3635QM (2.40GHz) AMD Radeon HD 8800M Series (This is the one that crashes) Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 Thanks in advance! Submitted January 30, 2018 at 03:11PM by bromanceisdead http://ift.tt/2DMK7dc

'sup guys I bought a cx 450 from Corsair to replace my 4 year old cx 430 because my PC was showing strange behavior after the purchase of a GTX 1050 ti (pink / red artifacts, PC restarting randomly, among others) Anyway, my Cx 450 arrives, then I install it, everything ok, Pc booted normally then i went to play cs: go - exactly 1: 20 hours passes and out of nowhere my PC shuts off, I try to start it and nothing After opening the case I notice that the PSU is very hot, to the point of being annoying to the touch (i risk to say a 50 ° celsius) finally, I turn off and on, on the psu Power button, my pc turns on but does not show video all fans running normally (APARENTLY the psu fan is spinning too), and when I tried to shut It off, It didnt let me, so i had to turn the psu Button off, case Power button wouldnt work. I am in need of assistance because I'm in tremendous fear of having picked up a bad PSU and burned my video card that has not even been used for 2 months. What ...

Me and a friend have picked up a moonlighting thing providing tech support for a local company, and the influx of requests are looking like they warrant a ticketing system. I know this isn't technically within the domain of this sub, but it seems like something that the people who frequent here would know. Do you have any recommendations for free and/or cheap ticketing systems? Jira (cloud or self-host) is $10/m for 3 or less agents, Zendesk is $5/agent/month, Spiceworks was unimpressive when I used it before... An ideal ticketing system would allow us to log hours worked (and then report on those hours later for billing purposes), would be relatively cheap, and have a simple interface for not-agents to use. Email parsing into a ticket submission a nice bonus but not necessary. I would prefer something on the cheap and or free side of things. Self-hosting isn't an issue, I have webspace and can set up whatever I need to. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 12:23PM by FaxCeles...

Purchased an Asus Zenbook UX430 ua, upon switching on, weird noises are emerging from within. Is this a manufacturing defect or is it normal. Please advise. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 07:02AM by bestproslacker http://ift.tt/2DOKHHm

So i got a new Laptop for school. Not realizing what an SSD was until it was too late, i have to deal with a 1255BG SSD which keeps filling up and i have no idea how...i'm using CCleaner. i've tried all other ways to clear it. it went from 10gb free, which i'm comfortable with to 2gb free nearly instantly. and i don't know what to do to fix it Submitted January 30, 2018 at 06:55AM by PageGallagher15 http://ift.tt/2ElPAod

I am asking this question because in the tech blogs, they say that I can use a board that was made for Skylake processors for a Kaby Lake processor, and Kaby Lake and Kaby Lake R are identical to each other in terms of pinouts. So, can I use a Kaby Lake R processor on a Skylake board? (This is a BGA CPU swap.) Submitted January 30, 2018 at 07:22AM by mine248 http://ift.tt/2DLbNep

I've been having this issue for a while now, where I'll start up my computer and look at task manager, and see that my disk usage is at 100% for no reason. There is nothing in task manager that should be causing the usage to go up to 100%. My disk drive is an Intel Optane+ 1.8TB HDD if that helps at all. I've tried to run chkdsk /f several times, and the problem is always either temporarily fixed, or not fixed at all. Sometimes, my drive will run at 1% or 0% for a few seconds, but will quickly spike back up to 20-80% unpredictably. Does anyone know how to help??? I've tried to defrag, but nothing happened. I've followed online guides. I got my computer 5 months ago, and I don't want to have to purchase a new part for it this soon. Would wiping my computer and reinstalling windows and everything help? I'm so confused on this issue. Please help!! Submitted January 30, 2018 at 07:24AM by coldbre4d http://ift.tt/2ElixjZ

While ms 017-010 patch fixes the problem, people are ignoring the patch and could end up with this https://imgur.com/gallery/HwbGz , the person asking me to fix it lives in another country what should i tell him :P ship it and pray lol. Submitted January 30, 2018 at 06:53AM by kingpinhere http://ift.tt/2DKDLqC

I found an old 11 year old computer, but it is very laggy, and I can not find the delete all data option despite reading the manual, I never used it as after all this time because of how slow it was, last time I tried to use it a couple months ago I got porn flashed on my screen upon opening Internet Explorer, haven't touched it since, but I want to try again, I want to see what it can do. Any help is appreciated! Submitted January 30, 2018 at 06:42AM by IvanLR http://ift.tt/2Emqs0J

I first noticed this problem when I was trying to play the game 'Streets of Rogue' on my pc. Whenever I clicked play, Steam would shut down. No error message, nothing. Just a shutdown. Then, I tried typing streets of rogue into chrome and pressing enter, chrome would shut down. Then Microsoft Edge shut down when I just typed in the word rogue. Literally any application that I can type the word rogue into and press enter on, the app closes. I downloaded some antivirus software (AVG) and it discovered a threat called IDP.ARES.GENERIC. I deleted it and it hasn't been detected again. Meanwhile the glitch still stands. It doesn't manifest until about five minutes after my computer starts up, and I haven't noticed any other problems. What's causing this issue, and why is it so specific?? Submitted January 30, 2018 at 07:10AM by Press-Start_To-Play http://ift.tt/2DLunmw